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Thank you, Popov
If the PCM is really bad, it will need to be replaced. When you are in 4 wheel drive, the PCM recieves a signal from the pump, and the computer controls the entire drive train differently then if you are in 2 wheel drive.
The Suzuki dealer told me that a bad pump will many times appear as an internal short in the PCM, so they sggested replacing the pump and see what happens, and again that was all I needed.
As for flushing your power steering and clutch. Power steering not so much but clutch defiantly. Clutch requires two people. One to depress the clutch pedal the other to release the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder or clutch actuator cylinder, found on side of tranmisson. Be sure to tighten screw before person inside vehicle releases pedal. KEEP FLUID FULL in clutch reservoir.
You could flush the power steering by disconnecting the low pressure line emptying into the power steering reservoir and have it empty into a bucket. One person slowly turns the steering wheel with the engine running all the while the other person holds the low pressure line and adds power steering fluid to the reservoir to avoid air getting in the system. Could be quite the juggling act.
Thanks for your response.
Again, Thanks for all of your response.
chris
chris http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/arkainzeye
chris
link title
The culprit seems to be carbon buildup. I use seafoam every few months in the fuel and have never had a carbon problem. You might give that a try before you get into tearing the intake apart.
What the hell! They claim that the throttle body has to be removed to get the cable changed...This sucks. Anyone had this cable changed before?
When you order the tensioner, don't forget the little spring steel gasket behind it. Also order the sealant for the front cover and oil pan. I used the Chevy stuff and it hasn't leaked yet since I put it back together. I ended up replacing the cam chain, sprockets and the guide, too.
Since mine is a 4x4, the oil pan is a pain in the butt, but I think pulling it is the only way to do the job right.
Good luck..
2) What is your oil consumption? Excessive oil consumption not due to leaks by the service book is 1.9L ( 2qts) in 3,200 kms (2,000 miles).
3) What is your driving style? Do you tend to rev your engine high before shifting?
If your oil consumption is low and you don't rev the bejeezers out of your engine, I would be getting a second opinion as to the cause of you non start. Your mileage is very low for that kind of problem.
If it is your valve stern seals that need to be replaced it, the head needs to come off and the camshafts and valves removed, valve guides checked and possibly reamed. It is a huge job and very expensive.
IF and it is a big IF this job needs to be done, I would be looking for my local Suzuki dealer to perform the work or a very skilled local mechanic, before I would trust my local Chevy dealer. They don't have alot of experience with double overhead cam engines, except for the infamous Quad Four engine, which was on par with the Olds 350 Diesel engine. :shades:
As for your last question, all Chevrolet Trackers are Suzuki Grand Vitaras' or Vitaras' in disguise depending on trim level. They are all built in the same CAMI auto plant in Ingersoll, Ontario, Canada. You can tell that they are a Japanese design as the rear door opens to the curb, instead of to the street, as with Jeeps. The entire powertrain is Suzuki and the electronics are Nippon Denso. You may even find some or all the parts for your truck are cheaper at a Suzuki dealership, as long as they not Chev specific such as the front grill or bow-tie trim. Shop around and compare your truck to the same Suzuki model and year when looking for parts. Good luck. :shades:
1. Which book, for maintenance, wiring, etc.?
2. Radio is 'inop'...and displaying 'loc'...in the manual it says to enter the code. How do I obtain or reset the code...original owner went to heaven (I think).
3. Planning on towing behind 27' MH, 4 down, but concerned about the comments I've read on automatic hubs. Should I be? Should I replace the hubs with manual ones? Any other major concerns on towing 4 down? The manual is specific on settings for towing 4 down, but not too clear to me! Anyone have a specific 'check-list' for setting prior to towing? Is there anyway my automatic hubs can be set to 'unlocked' all the time, even though they are automatic? Considering the Roadmaster brackets (118-1) and Falcon II tow bar. Best Source?
4. Fan inop on A/C and heater...where is the fuse? Could be a bad fan motor, but I'd like to check the fuse, first.
5. 'Itty-Bitty' toggle switch on lower left of dash, driver's side. Aftermarket? Anybody have an idea of what it does, or supposed to do?
6. Possible to NOT aquire miles when towing?
Vehicle looks fair, minor dings, but sound. Engine runs nice and smooth, everything OK, except for my 'minor' concerns. Thanks for any input.
John
1) Helms manuals MAY still have a shop manual for your truck. If not, there is always Haynes, but try Helms first as they sell the original shop manuals.
2) A shot in the dark here. A chev dealer may be able to enter your vin number and retrieve your radios code, but you would probably find it cheaper and less hassle to replace the radio with an aftermarket one, that is better quality to boot, with a CD player.
3) I haven't got my manual handy but when you tow a 4WD with a part-time system you place the transfer case in the neutral position. This lets the entire drivetrain run free from the transmission. Your automatic hubs would not be engaged since the transfer case is not in 4WD and 6) since your odometer reads from the transmission, your mileage would not change. That is my read on towing but have never done it with a part-time 4WD. Your R.V dealer that supplies you your tow-bar would probably be able to answer your questions fully.
4) My quess. Your fuse block. Check your manual, it could also be a circuit breaker or relay. It probably is your fan motor, 11 years old.
5) Flip the switch and try to start the truck, if the truck doesn't start, you have your answer. Very handy thing to have a ignition or fuel shut off switch.
I hope I have helped.