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30 to 50 miles later,Lights on,same code.MOM insisted on driving the car from Brooklyn to Pa.,Car died,a dealer in Pennsylvania claimed he cleaned the Catylitic Convertor(??).30 to 50 miles later,Light is back on,same code.The car runs fine for a coupla hundred miles after the light goes on,then it starts to lose power.The Bumper to Bumper(engine) Warrantee has expired.Original Dealer wont work on it anymore,claims I abused him,I didnt.I just used the BS word inna polite but very terse question.My Mechanic,who knows these platforms,spent a day onnit.He tells me these 3 Cats are just too small for this engine.Any views on this would be appreciated.Its got me nutz.Im about to weld up some flanges and pipe and replace all the Cats. Thank You
PS: I have never worked for Auto Zone and have no connection other than as a customer
Do an on line search at a parts house, Auto Zone, Advanced, Rock auto parts, etc.,
I believe you will find that the right and left are identical. There is a different mount for the transmission, depending on Auto or Manual.
Suggest you put the vehicle on jack stands and place a wood block on the oil pan. Gently raise it to see which (or all) mount is bad.
checked the vacuum an within correct range. Check for vacuum line leaks with throttle body cleaner, no change. Removed and thoroughly cleaned throttle body, slight improvement but NOT fixed.
Anyone have ANY suggestions??
Thanks,
Bill
Good luck.
Just got the vehicle from out of state, if this had happened on the HWY, I wouldnt be here to post this message!
Anyway, Jacked it up in the rain, took off wheel, caliper and rotor... Bearings were chewed up into bits and pieces.
Figured the spindle nut came off inside the hub, but upon checking the left wheel, while everything looked fine, I noticed there wasnt a spindle nut on that side!!!
If thats how it is supposed to be, then can somebody please tell me what the heck keeps the wheels on???
1. Idling too fast. I removed the throttle body and throughly cleaned (use throttle body cleaner NOT carb cleaner). Do NOT use sharp objects to clean. Use a small brush. I did lubricate the shaft from the outside before re installing it. Slower idle helped but did not cure the problem.
2. Loosen and re-tighten motor and transmission mounts. Place the Tracker on 4 jack stands. Loosen the bolts until there is about 1/8" clearance. Start the motor. put the transmission in gear, both drive and reverse. I ran it in drive at an idle then increases speed a little. I gently applied the brakes. I then put it in reverse and did the same thing. I repeated this a couple of times. This allowed the mounts to "re-seat". I tightened all mount bolts and did a road test and a put it in gear at idle test several times. This took 90% or more of the vibration out. This motor is 4 cylinder and that is OK.
Thanks,
Jorge in La Mesa, CA
1. Around the door?
2. Around the window?
3.Under the dash?
4. 2 door or 4 door, under the top, (if 2 door)?
Now as a guess with no info: There is no drain in any of the side panels. If leaking under the door panels it is possible that trash has come through the window opening (with window down or glass seal damaged) and has filled up the "weep" holes in the bottom of the door., Look under the door to see if they are stopped up. If stopped up remove the door panel and clean out these holes. If the door to glass seal is damaged, replace it.
4. There are some "plugs" in the floor on most vehicles, they are easy to remove to drain the floor (under the carpet) but this does not solve your problem, just keeps it from becoming a swimming pool.
5. Suggest you have someone run water over the door and window openings to help find the leaks. You should be inside looking for the leak. This may or may not work as wind pressure along with the rain may be causing the leaks.
I have the owner's manual but unless I missed it it does not -explain- what it does or even when I might need or want to use it. Thank you
This just downshifts one gear, helps to control in places where it would automatically shift up and down. Kind of like taking a car out of overdrive.
NOT a highway gear if you want gas mileage.
It may just have the little arm from the lock to the latch broken or out of the hole it should be in. They are secured with a little thing that keeps the rod in the hole. This could break and allow the lock rod to come out, leaving the latch still locked. This can be fixed by removing the interior pane. You would have to get the part from a dealer or a salvage yard., The plastic part is almost identical for a wide variety of cars.
-----
When you need more power for climbing hills or
quicker acceleration, press the P (POWER) switch. The
POWER indicator light on the instrument panel comes
on. For normal driving, press the N (NORMAL) switch.
The POWER indicator light goes off.
------
I would like to know what it does to produce more power for hills and acceleration. It is only available on the 4 speed automatic transmission equipped Trackers. I want a detailed explanation of exactly what it does to achieve more 'power'
I've had my 2000 manual four door for about 7 years, pretty solid little unit. A/c died this summer and when the estimate got over $2000.00 I told them to stop adding it up, compresser, dryer, etc. Other then that, pretty happy.
Thanx
Goodluck
Is this a common problem for this vehicle? Is it worth it for me to tear it apart and try to fix it or should I start looking for a new engine.
You may want to a parts house and buy a "mechanics stethoscope" and try it at various positions on the engine while it is running. If you have a store like Harbor Freight near you they are not too expensive (under $5)
So I'm looking for my 2001 ZR2 4x4.
If you have a handle on any place let me know. They're getting harder to come by. I'm in CA
I'm about ready to trade it in if parts are getting this difficult. BUT I love it!
The price for the motor mounts was the best one on the web and quite a bit less than any local or chain auto parts store. When you install the mounts, tighten them down then back off ALL trans and motor mount bolts (about 2 or 3 turns) until they are not tight. Start the motor, put the car in gear, both forward and reverse several times and rev the motor a little while in gear. This "seats" the mounts and cuts down on the vibration when you tighten them down. Been there, done that..
The motor mounts are the same for right and left. The transmission mount is not the same. DO NOT but a transmission mount from them. They will ship you a three hole mount and the 99 is a four hold mount. I returned the trans mount yesterday.