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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I don't know of an internet how-to, but you can buy one of those cheap ($15-$20) manuals from Autozone, and it will have the step by step with pictures. The main secret is to remove the radiator with the fans still attached, switch the fans to the new radiator, and replace as a unit. Not too difficult.
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    tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    It does sound like a worn motor mount symptom.

    First, check the engine torque rod (fwd side of the engine compartment). Its purpose is to prevent the engine from rocking with torque changes. The spoked rubber inserts in the rod tend to deteriorate and break.

    It's easy to remove and replace if you need one. Just use your jack and a block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine and remove the two bolts. A new one should only cost $15 - $30 aftermarket.
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    tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    It's a pretty common problem with this car, usually caused by a faulty fast idle thermo valve. The FIT valve is the cylindrical shaped valve located on the forward side of the air intake plenum. To check, do the following:

    Start the engine and remove the top cover plate on the valve (two phillips screws). Place your finger over the valve seat. When the engine is cold, you should feel air flow across your finger. When the engine is hot, you should not feel any air flow. If either of these is not as described, the FIT valve is faulty.

    In the event you find that the FIT valve is the culprit, and you decide to replace it, try this before buying a new one:

    With the cover off, inside the valve you'll see a white plastic retaining ring with two slots cut on opposite sides. Using a small screwdriver or other suitable tool in one of the slots, carefully try to spin the ring clockwise. If it is loose enough to turn easily, continue tightening in small increments until the idle quits surging. I had the same problem with my car a couple of years ago and this worked for me.
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    jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    ....thanks so much---it's people like this group that restores faith in humanity...no wonder Tommy Lee Jones retired....... :shades:
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    dano2008dano2008 Member Posts: 8
    I have the same question.............About the cigar lighter fuse location.
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    twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Hey guys!

    Recently I've noticed a new sound when I start up my Accord. Right when the motor fires up, there is a high pitched sqeak that lasts about a second and then goes away.

    Is this serpentine belt or timing belt slippage, indicating that they need replacing?

    thanks.
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It's probably the serpentine (drive) belt or maybe a bearing. If the drive belt is slipping, your tensioner could be worn out. Does the belt feel tight, when you push on it?

    If the timing belt were to slip, you would know about it :sick: (engine would not run well, if at all). The timing belt has cogs on it, so it will usually break, before it slips.
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    twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    The belt seems fairly tight when I push on it...but it does have *some* give. Guess it's going to need replacement when I do the timing belt this summer too.

    I don't know why I even considered the timing belt...duh..it has cogs. That children is what we call a brain fart! xD
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    javaman4javaman4 Member Posts: 3
    Honda Accord LX 1990. Me to. I plugged in a small car heater and it blew. Would sur like to know how to fix.
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    automoronautomoron Member Posts: 8
    This past week I took my 92 LX into the dealer for what I thought was a clutch problem. It has 181K miles and I was told a while back that the clutch would soon need to be replaced. About a week ago it began to be difficult driving at low RPMs between 2 and 2.3K without the car shaking. It was more of a problem in the lower gears.

    I might have made the mistake of telling the Honda service department that it was a clutch problem. They replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders and the clutch, but the problem came back after driving 5 miles after picking the car up. Now the problem is in every gear from second to fifth. When I drive at about 2K RPM and try to accelerate (even without flooring), the car starts to shake.

    Could this problem be that the new clutch needs to be adjusted, or is it another problem? Could it be that it needs a simple tune up? I noticed when I got the invoice that "tune up kit" was listed in the long list of recommendations by the tech. I was never told this by the service rep. I just plunked $2300 on the table for the clutch, front engine seal leak (timing belt and water pump replacement while they're at it), and new battery cables. In addition, I am replacing the radiator myself today. Needless to say, I was less than happy :mad: when the car started shaking on the way home!!
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I suspect you have broken motor/transmission mounts, but please, get them checked out first.
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    automoronautomoron Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the info (I think). That sounds serious, what are we talking pricewise if that's the problem :sick: .
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I have no idea how much the labor would be, but you can get some reasonable prices from this web-site.
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
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    automoronautomoron Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for all your help, elroy5! I will have the service dept check it out next week (since I already paid for them to find what was causing this).
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    lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I will put in a second prop for that website. They have the exploded views for all the parts catalogs for this generation Accord. Its very helpful in debugging, trying to figure out what part is actually broken, etc. They also carry a lot of the stupid interior components (one of my doors lost the little lens for the light and they had it...).
    Their parts pricing is great, but their shipping and handling costs are slightly out of pace with the modern online retailers.
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When I received some brake pads from Majestic, the paste packet was smashed, and the paste was all over the pads (what a mess :( ). HandA now sells the pads, and I have nothing but good experience with their shipping, so I will only use Majestic as a last resort now. Majestic does have just about any part you could want though. Wish HandA would start selling replacement parts as well as maintenance items.
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    honduras4lyfehonduras4lyfe Member Posts: 1
    i keep hearing this noice from i think is the alternator or it may be the belt when i turn the car on it sounds like a screech and then the car starts but afterwards the rpm lowers under zero. is this a problem
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    lemonswillislemonswillis Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE JUST BOUGHT THIS 1995 HONDA ACCORD AND I AM KINDA HAVING TROUBLE WITH IT IF THERE IS ANYONE WHO CAN HELP ME OUT LET ME KNOW :(:(:(:(
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    lemonswillislemonswillis Member Posts: 2
    I AM NOT TOO FAMILIAR WITH THIS SITE ARE WE THE ONLY ONE HERE IN THIS FORUM
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Turn of the CAPS please. :( I don't know how many mechanics there are here, but some of us know a little about Accords. ;) What would you like to know?
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    One mechanic tells me I have to replace the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and Distributor O-ring because of a leak. I don't see any leaks when I check under my car in the mornings. Can this be internal? Also while I'm getting this done should I get my timing corrected and a full tuneup?

    Will this be costly?

    Thanks for your tips
    Jim
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well which is it or can't the mechanic make up his mind? ;)

    What I'm hearing is the "shotgun" approach to auto repair. I know the mechanic is not here to defend himself, but if you are leaking from all THREE areas, one would have to suspect you have very severe internal crankcase pressure resulting from a plugged up PCV system. Thus, replacing all those gaskets would fix the symptom, not the disease.

    I suggest getting a second opinion with the car up on a lift, and also checking the PCV system for proper operation
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    labetteboylabetteboy Member Posts: 6
    does anyone have a simple wiring diagram for a Starter Kill Switch ..where car wont start until a cetain button in the cabin is pushed at the same time as starter.

    thanks in advance ~~
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    I notice a squeak (engine crind) after parking and shutting off ignition. What can this be?

    Thanks
    cybercool
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    How 'bout using the fuel pump instead? Harder to spot.

    http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_antitheft.html
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    The ABS light goes on when I start driving as soon about 2 min. Will getting my brakes done get rid of the ABS light from going on?

    Thanks
    Cybercool
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It depends on why your ABS light is going on. It could be one of the wheel sensors (or it's wire) is bad. This is not a normal brake replacement part, so NO...if you get your brakes done it won't necessarily get rid of the ABS light from going on.

    But while they are doing the brakes, have them fix whatever is wrong with the ABS since they'll have the wheels off and will be right there.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    If it's the pump, they may prefer not to fix it - big $.
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    I found the engine light code with the paper clip trick and it came up 43. The Fuel supply system. My engine light came on even before I had my fuel pump replaced. I don't know if this could be the cause. Will this be costly to repair?
    Please help
    Thanks
    Cybercool
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi again,
    My ABS light goes on after driving about 2 mins. Do you think having the brakes done will fix the abs light situation or will it be costly?

    Thanks
    Cybercool
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    As I understand it, the ABS light indicates a problem with THAT system, not your brake system itself; my guess is no.
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    kent2008kent2008 Member Posts: 1
    Hope somebody has some tips on how to fix my cars problem. My air conditioner stopped working. Had the pump checked and it's good. I replaced the fan/blower and still won't work. checked all the fuses/wires and all are ok. Is there a relay/switch that controls the air conditioner that I'm missing?....Any tips will be greatly appreciated..

    regards,
    Dan
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yeah if there is not enough refrigerant in the system, it will not allow the compressor clutch to engage. There is a shut-off switch on most systems for this very purpose, so that you don't damage the compressor.
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    keyon19keyon19 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1990 honda accord lx that stalls when I push the gas. What is the problem.
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    angelvangelv Member Posts: 1
    how did you fix it and did u ever get it fixed...i am haveing the same problem with mine...its a 91 accord?
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    My engine light code 43 indicates a problem within the fuel pressure system. It mentions check fuel pressure gauge and oxygen sensor. Should I replace both fuel pressure gauge and sensor or just the sensor? Wondering to just replenish the whole fuel line and if it'll be costly?
    Thanks for your input

    Cybercool
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    miotch00miotch00 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone

    I have a 1990 Accord and I'm having trouble getting it started. I think it might be the fuel pump because the car acts as though everything leading up to turning over is fine, but it acts like its out of gas. The needle shows a full tank. Any ideas on fixes?

    Also, anyone know why the headlights and brights might go out after flickering for about 10 minutes, while all the blinkers, running lights, etc. still work?

    Thanks for any help guys!
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    miyage007miyage007 Member Posts: 5
    My 1990 Accord keeps on loosing power steering fluid and I have to top it up every week. There's fluid everywhere the drive belts, hose lines. I have steamed cleaned it let it run for a while to see where the leak is coming from but I just cant pin point the leak is. Does anyone have any idea where the common leaks/weak point in the power steering might be coming from? Could it just be the high presure lines? Any ideas will be much appreciated.
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi there,

    I had the same problem. It turned out to be the steering pump hose leaking near the oil dip stick. I paid a mechanic $168 to replace it. I have now no leaks and it's all good except for a whinning sound when I turn but that maybe the pump itself.

    Jim
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    twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Hey guys!

    Since it's been warming up around here, I started to use the A/C the past few days. Last night, I noticed something odd. While driving, I heard a small chirp from the engine, and then it repeated itself. It does it every few minutes--i'd say about every 3-4 minutes. Also, the car jerks a bit when it happens, kind of like I am going over a **small** bump or running over a small rock. It happens ONLY when the A/C is running.

    Could this be a loose Serp. belt slipping? If so, why does it only happen when the A/C is running?

    Thanks for your help!

    Also, does anyone know a good online retailer that sells the Fan Timer Unit? Thanks again.

    -Matt
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    willyshes1willyshes1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 92 honda accord it starts up and idles fine ...as soon as you put it in gear its starts jerking and not wanting to go.and continues to do so throughout driving...i went to a honda mechanic and he told me that the intake was clogged so i pulled the intake and cleaned it out ....it ran fine for about a month then got worse than it was before .....could anyone tell me what this might be
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like the clutch on the AC compressor is slipping, yep. Time for a new one.
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    miyage007miyage007 Member Posts: 5
    I think I just discovered where the leak is coming from. It seems to be from the power steering pump itself just underneath the pulley. Is there a gasket or a seal in the pump that can be replaced or do I have to replace the whole pump itself? Thanks.
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    twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Hey guys,

    I'm just thinking out loud here, but I was reading through some stuff online and noticed that some people don't recommend flushing/replacing the trans fluid on older cars, because that messes up the tranny and forces you to repair or replace it.

    Here's the thing, my '93 EX with 193K had the transmission replaced @ 85K in fall 2001...for whatever reason. It was done before I owned the car, but I have the AAMCO documents to prove it. With a little over 100K on this transmission, should I do a flush or should I just leave it be until it gives out (who knows how long that'll be...it's only 7 years old.) I'm split right down the middle, since my transmission isnt old, but yet it's still got some mileage on it.

    Thanks for any insight!
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would advise against a "Power Flush", because the pressure used can force metal particles into places where they can clog things up. Draining and filling 3 quarts will not hurt anything, and may actually help the tranny shift smoother.
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    twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    yeah...I read about the method where you replace 3 quarts, drive around, replace another three, and then change it once more. Have you heard anything about the effectiveness of this method? Thanks!!
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Have you heard anything about the effectiveness of this method?

    Cleaner fluid should flow better, and it should help the transmission work smoother. But as far as solving serious transmission problems, it will not fix something that's worn out. Have you checked the level and condition of the fluid? The dipstick is down low towards the front of the car, and should have a yellow loop. Drive the car for a little while, then check the fluid. If the fluid is dark, dirty, or smells burnt, it should be changed. How many times you do the drain and fill depends on how bad the fluid, and the drain plug magnet look.
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    twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    I check the level and condition of the fluid roughly every two weeks, I don't have any major problems, my mind was just wandering about the subject. Thanks for all your advice. :]
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    miyage007miyage007 Member Posts: 5
    Hi guys. I decided to replace the power steering pump of my 1990 Accord myself . Is it pretty much unbolt and bolt the new one? Is there anything that I need to do about bleeding or draining the power steering fluid and tensioning the belt? A step by step guide in doing this replacement would be much appreciated. Thanks
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    cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    Can someone refresh my memory and and tell me when the ABS light goes on what does it mean and is it expensive to fix. Will a brake job be totally unrelated to an ABS job? My thought was if I had a brake job done it'll fix the ABS lighting problem.

    Thanks
    Cybercool
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