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Man I bought my first freaking car about 6 months ago: 1990 Honda Accord LX. It sucked when i first got it. It wouldn't start properly without a bit of starter fluid and eventually i did a lot to the car and got it running perfectly! No problems after i replaced the fuel pump and the main relay.
However that was two months ago. Now my car is having a similar problem starting and stuff....it's really aggravating me because everyone tells me something different and I've ended up replacing two coolant sensors, my entire distributor (which includes the igniter), and Jesus as my witness the damn thing still has trouble starting...however I've made a discovery in the past few days...
My fuel pump has trouble receiving power...sometimes it will get power and sometimes it won't...now something else is strange as well...my "S" light will start blinking and my check engine light will appear...when this happens i have observed that my fuel pump has stopped receiving power...It's like me LOL i just go when i feel like it!
Anyway, the other thing wrong with my car is that my windows continue to receive power almost 15 mins after i turn the car off and remove the keys from the ignition...not a problem with me, but it might lead to something bad down the road...which is why i mention it.
If anyone could help me, it would be greatly appreciated, because i start college in July and without a car i can't make the 30 minute drive out there!!
THANK YOU!!
Actually, this isn't anything wrong, but rather a feature. For example, if you are sitting in a parking lot waiting on someone to come to your car (picking someone up) and you turn the car off, you can still roll down the windows if it gets stuffy after a few minutes. Once you open one of the doors, this will no longer work until you turn the key back to the "ON" position and back off again.
I am no mechanic, so I'm not much help on the other issues with your car, but after my mom having a Gen IV Accord like yours (hers was a '93 EX), and me having a Gen V ('96) and Gen VII ('06) Accord that has the same feature, even allowing you to open the moonroof in my EX, I know that this isn't a problem at all, and you shouldn't fret this thing!
Good luck with your other issues. These cars are pretty great as far as I'm concerned.
TheGraduate
I'm curious to know if the "door open" indicator lights work for each door on the dashboard, meaning, if all four doors are open, do all 4 lights illuminate in the pictogram?
http://techauto.awardspace.com/
In any case, you should NOT be able to rotate the crankshaft pulley without turning the crankshaft also. If you are able to do so, the pulley bolt has probably loosened and the square keeper pin (key) has either slipped out of place or broken.
Be aware that the same bolt and square pin that keeps the crankshaft pulley from spinning also holds the timing belt pulley in place. If that moves, you could end up with some serious valve train damage.
Again, IF I read your statements correctly, you need to fix that loose pulley before you go any farther with your other problems.
Good luck.
I have a 1991 Accord Wagon with 200k miles. The car is not very attractive but is in pretty decent shape with the exception of an oil leak. In the morning there are two small puddles(2inX2in) under the front end kinda by each tire. When I start the car after sitting it smokes for a few minutes then seems to be fine, the smoke smells oil-ish.
I want to keep the car on the road.. it still gets awesome gas mileage and its perfect to haul my Kayaks around on.
I am wondering about swapping out the engine or getting the gaskets done.. I am also wondering what engines/years are compatible with this car..Its a 4cyl/5speed.. NOT a VTECK.
Any advise,suggestions, or info would be greatly appreciated. You can probably tell that Im not very familiar with mechanics and would like to have an idea before I go to get an estimate.
Thanks!!
Those leaks sound like they are getting serious however--that's a big drip.
If you have a massive crankshaft leak in front (behind the front pulley), that's fixable but if you have a huge rear main seal leak, that could be very expensive, and on an old engine like yours not a good sign of internal condition.
So the advice is---locate the leaks precisely, on a lift, steaming the engine---WHATEVER, then make a decision based on this hard data. How much oil are you burning? That would also be a factor in what to do.
I don't think it ever makes sense to do an engine swap in a beat up old car. A used engine from a wrecker makes more sense, or just go buy another old Honda.
thank you all!
Thanks!
1991 Accord DX/LX: 2.2L(2156cc) F22A1, MPFI, SOHC 16-valve (single exhaust manifold)
1991 Accord EX: 2.2L(2156cc), F22A4, MPFI, SOHC 16-valve (dual exhaust manifold)
1991 Accord SE: 2.2L(2156cc), F22A6, MPFI, SOHC 16-valve (dual intake manifold)
There are a couple on Tigger.. Assuming that this would be a simple bolt in replacement (should I choose to do it), in general terms, about how much would it cost to have the labor done at a local shop (not a honda dealer)? Anybody have a rough idea?
At any rate, yes it's an interference engine, at least by my charts.
Even if it is interference fit, that doesn't mean you need a whole new engine.
You need to calm down and get some good advice on a)what exactly happened and b) what your alternatives are. You might have overheated and not broken the belt, or if you broke it, maybe you only bent a few valves and you can get by with a rebuilt cylinder head.
I bought y 93' Accord EX about 2 yrs ago with the odometer reading 135000.
The prior owner said it stopped working when she had it. The true odometer reading on my car has to over 165000? Can the true reading of the engine odometer ever be found? When I first bought the car it performed better and faster and now the engine and ABS light goes on and has a sluggish per- formance. I was told the Accord engines can run for a very long time. How can I bring back some life into my car? Tune up, fuel pressure gauge check, etc?
Thanks
jim
I have 2008 Accord V6 automatic Accord with the black leather seats and
I assume black vinyl dash.
Some people use the McGuires Gold product but I think that is only for leather.
Thanks for the feedback.
http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm
Did you have any warning such as low oil presssure or engine running hot before the incident?
Blue smoke is burning oil and white to grey smoke is anti freeze. I may be wrong here but I'm leaning towards a blown head gasket.
I tested the ignition, nothing wrong there.. but there is something going on... No fuel pump, and no spark I checked out the main relay and it is fine, I also tried another out of a running car, what do I do next...
If anyone knows anything please help, thanks, ronn. email me lv_techs at yahoodotcom
Hope this helps. Check a maintance type book Haynes etc.
I went to AutoZone, and bought a new battery. Next day, the car did not start..wow that was a pain. I did jumpstart the battery, and the car starts fine. For the next two weeks, I never had a problem and the car starts without a problem.
Recently, last two days I could not start the car. However, when I jumpstart the battery the car starts fine...what is the problem? is it the starter, the fuse,...? please advice. Thanks.
Since your car starts when jumped, that usually means your battery is discharged. 'WHY' it is discharged, is the real question. If it was discharged because the battery had a bad cell, then replacing the battery would fix the problem. However, if the reason the battery had low voltage was because the alternator is bad and isn't charging the battery back up, then you replaced the wrong part. You might also have corrosion on your battery terminals or they are loose, but I'm assuming you would have fixed any corrosion when putting a new battery in.
I'd take it back to AutoZone, and have them do a load test on your car. They'll roll out a tester, and hook it up to your battery and alternator. They can then put a resistive load on it, and check that your alternator is putting out the right voltage and maximum current, and they will also check that your battery can hold the voltage.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
The important thing is to find the cause, and test the suspected parts. Getting into a guessing game, can become very expensive. Good luck, in your quest for truth.
A faulty battery cable will often (typically in my experience) exhibit the same symptoms as a weak battery during the start cycle, sometimes even requiring a jump start, but won't necessarily have an obvious noticeable effect on the car's charging / electrical system once it is running. If your warning light is not illuminating when the car is running and you have a good battery when attempting to start, this should be at the top of the list of things to check.
Checking for voltage drop through the cables is simple if you have a mutimeter or perhaps Autozone will do this when they check the alternator (or maybe not ,I don't know).
For a quick check, see if a cable gets warm or hot to the touch the next time you have trouble starting it
I went back to Autozone. They tested the new battery and alternator. Both are fine. They did not not know what still cause this, as the problem still exist. The battery location seems fine along with the connections (nothing loose).
So the problem is not from the alternator, could be the Starter?
I went back to Autozone. They tested the new battery and alternator. Both are fine. They did not know what still cause this, as the problem still exist. The battery location seems fine along with the connections (nothing loose).
So the problem is not from the alternator, could be the Starter? and what do you mean by main relay?
The only thing you are doing when 'jumping' the vehicle, is connecting up a known battery of working voltage to your battery. If the starter had a problem, which battery is connected doesn't matter.
Since you know you have a good battery and alternator, the next thing to eliminate is whether something is draining down your battery. If you have a charged good battery, and lights are left on (or something is draining down the battery), then you will end up with a 'discharged' good battery. When you try to start, there isn't enough voltage and you get the clicking. You come along and jump it, give it the right voltage, and the car starts up.
The way to figure this out, is to first confirm first that something is draining down the battery. With a digital voltmeter, measure and record the voltage on the battery after you stop the car. (Should be in the 13.2-14.2 volt range) (Obviously check to make sure NOTHING is on ...... inside lights, outside lights, things plugged into the power outlets, etc). Measure the voltage every hour for a number of hours.
If you are finding the voltage dropping, then either the battery is bad (which you verified that it wasn't), or something is drawing current. If you disconnect the positive lead and put a test light in series, if the light is on then something is drawing current.
Depending now on your diagnostic skills (and if you have an electrical schematic for your vehicle), you can start pulling fuses to see if you can get the light to go out. If the light goes out with a fuse pull, then you know that something on that circuit is drawing power.
I have seen vehicles with a light on in the trunk (bad switch causing light on), and a bad switch on power seat (leaving motor trying to adjust), bad relay causing radiator fan to stay on, etc. Just last month my daughter left the inside lights turned on during the day (couldn't see that it was lit).
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
I opened the hood today and spent sometime looking into the connections. I saw the wire that connects the starter to the battery really loose. So I cliped it firmly. I will see if this will fix the problem...if not, I will try other possibilities.
How could that be loose, if you had the battery checked at autoparts store? They would have tightened it.....
I need some help with a problem I have with my 1993 Honda Accord, 142,000 miles. Over the past several months, my car has been
jumping/hesitating/stuttering. Initially, it happened so rarely I thought I had gone over something on the road. It happened more frequently, I started to pay attention. It felt as though I had driven over speed bumps. The car would lose power, stutter/jump several times and then everything would go back to normal. These events were sporadic. Never happened on acceleration or deceleration, but occurred when cruising (40-50 mph).
I took the car to the mechanics who have worked with my car for years. They all said, “sounds like spark plug problem”. They found the engine gasket needed replacing, oil in the spark plug wells- I guess as a result of the gasket problem- and wires to the distributor old and cracked. I paid the $$$, drove the car for a couple of days and the problem was not fixed. Back to the mechanic. Faulty distributor wires which they replaced. Problem still not fixed. Right now this occurs on a daily basis. The car will develop a throaty growl, hesitate a little, then back to normal.
I have been thinking back as to when I started to notice this, as my old Honda is a great driving car. They had replaced all my belts some months ago and I think it was after this that I began to notice this problem.
I would appreciate any suggestions or advice anyone has.
Sincerely
Anne
I did not drive the car for two days. This morning, the car did not start, there was not even any sound. I noticed that the AC knob was on; could the reason be the AC is leaking some power and draining the battery...this is frustrating.
My cosuin felt happy and kept repeating that the problem could be from the starter, and that I am not listening to him...LOL; that more frustrating.
- the battery is defective, or
- there is something 'on' in the vehicle, which is drawing a current while the vehicle is turned off, and drawing all of the current out of the battery while it sits for two days.
I don't remember your situation, but the first step is to have an autoparts chain test your battery and alternator under load, which they'll do for free. The battery needs to be able to hold the power and deliver it when needed. The purpose of the alternator is to 'fill' the battery back up.
So if we assume your battery an alternator are okay (you really do need to verify that first), then your battery would be fully charged when you turn it off. You can verify that by measuring with a digital voltmeter, should be at least 13.0 volts. If you battery then is drawn down when you try to start (test with a voltemeter, and less than say 12 volts), then something is drawing down. By the way, you can buy digital voltmeters relatively cheaply at an autoparts store or radio shack, among other places.
The way to find what is drawing down your battery takes some trial and elimination, and is helpful if you have electrical schematics. If you disconnect the + cable from the battery, and put a test light (can be purchased at autoparts) from the +cable to the +battery terminal....if the light is on then something is wanting to draw current. You can start pulling the fuses, to help figure out whether it's something on that circuit or not. If this is beyond your capabilities, then take it to a shop who has the background to troubleshoot electrical problems.
I've seen things on like:
- trunk lights not turning off
- power seat with a defective switch, leaving power to the motor
- defective aftermarket alarms
- defective engine computers
- defective diodes in the alternator (won't find this via fuse, but the alternator test will find this)
- defective door switch, leaving the inside lights on
- my daughter leaving the dome light on
- defective power window switch
- defective relay, leaving circuits powered when the key was off
Good luck
I have a 92 Honda Accord and my D4 light doesn't come on when I put the gear shift in D4, all the rest of the shifting lights comes on.
When the gear shift is in D4, the A/T shifts from 1st gear to 4th gear with a clunk. No in between gears. What could be the problem?
Everything else works fine.
Hope to hear from someone or anyone for this problem.
Thanks,
94shadow
I'll try again...
Anyway, while stopped with my auto trans in D4, on acceleration,
the transmission shifts from 1st. to 4th gear.
Also the D4 light doesn't come on at all.
While cruising, and I press the gas pedal, the only gear the A/T goes into is 1st gear.
I am wondering what happened to my 2nd and 3rd gear on my car.
Thanks,
Hope this makes sense.
94shadow
http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm
Thanks for your info. and pictures, it's a big help.
My D4 shift indicator light does not come on at all.
My car has only 1st and 4th gears.
I tried checking with the service check connecter (P2) but nothing blinks on the the instrument panel.
94shadow
I'm having the same problem, my D4 light starts blinking and then goes away. feels like I'm driving in 1st gear, slow. This happens once in a while not all the time. Is this expensive to fix? Is it a major transmission job?
Thanks
Jim
If your D4 light starts blinking and the transmission acting up, especially when it's hot inside the car, I suspect your transmission computer. The computer is located under the carpet on the passenger side front. Peel the carpet back from under the dash, disconnect the computer, and open it up. You will probably find dark spots on the circuit boards where the capacitors have leaked on them. If the computer is the problem, I would try to find a used one or repair the old one. A new computer would cost over $500. :surprise:
I checked my car with service check connector and found a
flashing D4 trans indicator light.
The D4 indicator light blinked (1) long and (5) short blinks.
I checked the D4 indicator light 3 times to be sure.
How do you decipher the flashes.
Hope to hear from someone on what the indicator light flashes mean.
94shadow
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1992&catcgry3=4DR%20EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=AT%20%20%20- %20%20%20RIGHT%20SIDE%20COVER&vinsrch=null
Yes, I have a repair manual and I'll look for the sensor in the manual.
I'll keep everyone posted on the outcome.
Cannot work on the car for a few days so it might be awhile for me to post the outcome.
Thanks a lot,
94shadow
In a previous post, I described a chirp that occurs ONLY when the A/C is on. There is a click in the dash, and then there is an audible chirp sound from the engine compartment. It is also accompanied with a little jerk (that can be felt inside the cabin, and accompanied by a small, short decrease in RPM) from the engine.
I had the serp. belts replaced a month ago, but the squeak still continues. Could the belt be on too tight/too loose? Could there be a problem with the A/C pulley or something else inside the unit? Thanks again for any help.