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Comments
Wish I had known that for my grandmother's sake. Her speedometer went nuts at 111k miles (went from 0-120-0-actual speed-0-120etc...) She paid to have it fixed!
On the funny side though, the car (now mine) only reads like it has 46,000 miles on it, although it has in the mid 157ks! People look funny when they see it in a ten year old car!
Anyway, the sportshift "feature" is basically useless. It causes the car to shift slightly late which I guess makes it feel uhh.....sporty? You can do the same thing by flooring the car though so I don't consider it much of a feature especially because the 90-93 era cars already have a pretty spirited shift.
There is a button on the side of my shifter (it's an auto) to activate sportshift. There is also a green indicator lamp on the dash that lights when sportshift is activated and will flash when there is a tranny problem.
As for it being a manumatic - no. But you can just row through the gears and pretend it's a stick but the car will override you if you dont shift I believe. Thus Honda claims no damage will occur to the car shifting in this way. Dunno, doesnt seem like a great idea. Besides, if I wanted a stick I wouldn't have bought an auto right?
Anyway, safe driving and enjoy your car.
If you still have the receipt of the repair done to your (granny's) car (was the Speed Sensor replaced, together with the Distributor?) you may be able to call Honda, talk to them, ask to be reimbursed!
I did my repair of that problem at my Shell station, same like you, unaware of that recall. About a month later, when was told about it, I called Honda, faxed them the receipt, and they paid me for the full cost, over $500!
Thanks
thegrad
I bought that '95 Accord V6 used, and used that warranty. As a matter of fact, I got a letter last week from Honda, reminding me of that warranty, but then as of Feb, 1st I don't own that car anymore...
The clicking under the glove compt. is just where the ABS is monitored. I don't know if your CD player clicking has anything to do with the ABS problem.
Honda charged me for replacing the ABS unit $1,200 back in 2001. Lately, when the unit was leaking again they wanted $1,500... I found a used-parts dealer who could get it for $200 (all rebuilt, there are no new units available anymore).... But then I decided to trade in my good old Accord for a new car.
Also, if otherwise you have a good car, and don't want to spend too much money repairing it, consider the option of driving your car WITHOUT the ABS.
Normally you can shake the steering, with the key in the ignition of course, and it will free up but this has not worked. I have taken off the covers to expose the steering shaft, wiring etc. and snooped around a little with no luck. Any suggestions?
--- Well, first of all, this was not just a "free maintenance and repairs".... It was a specific extended warranty (Service Bulletin 98-081) for some specific problems that some specific '94-'97 Accords (and few other models of those years) had, connected with their emission system. And only those cars hit with the "check engine" lights were affected.
It was covering those specific cars for 14 years or till 150,000 miles.
Do you hear your fuel pump activate when you turn the key at least?
I've found a third person in this forum with a similar problem.
For over six months now, most of the time the car could not start again if i drive more than 30 minutes. Then i have to wait at least 30 minutes or an hour to be able to start the car again.
The car starts up fine in morning in cold or hot weather.
To anyone who has either of these tires on their 94-97 Accord please share your opinions. Thanks
keep us posted
There is a safety recall for igintion switch (Export Service Bulletin 02-031) that i found at some other site for 1997 Accord (L4) and 1998-99 Accord (L4 and V6) and other Honda models.
I will take your advise and do the check then if I have to purchase the distributor i'll go with it , the worst that can happen is a better running vehicle ,,, listen thanks again for your response !
I had an intermittent distributor problem and this caused symptoms of what you described, but that was on a '90 accord. Basically the distributor was telling the engine to fire the plugs at the wrong time and the car couldn't start.
Now that you've been one of those using that extended warranty, you need to know that at 75,000 you're entitled to a free TUNE UP.
I would ask the dealer to print out for you the list of parts covered by that bulletin, and all the info connected.
I have the original suspension parts (ALL OF THEM) on the car with 158,000 miles. It rides good, if a little floaty at times on the interstate, steers perfect and doesn't have excessive bounce or harshness. The tires are new (only 7,000 miles on them).
Anything in-particular I need to ask about when I go to get it serviced next week?
I have 97 Honda with 79,000 mile. A couple of months ago, I had engine light on so I bought spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, and put them on myself.
I faxed all paper work (receipts) to Honda customer service this Monday. See if any luck to get reimbursement.
I'll keep you posted.
Shadingding
then again, the LX has rear suspension "arms" (i don't know what you call them exactly), and there's lots o' nuts/bolts and probably rubber or metal bushings back there.
you could have someone ride in the back seat and try to localize the noise a bit better.
with the vehicle on a lift, they'll probably be able to tell you what is loose, worn (or missing)
you sure you aren't missing a rubber exhaust hanger?
I changed Ignition Control Module/Igniter over the weekend. The car had little bit problem start on the first day (b/c weak battery..i crank the car alot the day before to test out and confirm the problem) but it started every time until the battery died. When jump start the car, my car started within couple seconds. I had no problems starting the car on the second day....but i had an accident yesterday so my car may be never able to run again
Try to change new Igniter..but it costs around $100. It costs $103.xx for my car.
Since your cigarette lighter works, you can (if you choose to) buy one of those plug-in lights at Target or local auto parts store to light up at least your gauges for safety. I've seen a variety of LED products that either attach to your dash or have flexible gooseneck for positioning. Good luck.
Since this winter my car started making strange noise from its steering column. When it was really cold (~10F) I could hear this "rubbing noise" whenever I turn the steering wheel. It sounded like a rubber eraser being pushed around on the blackboard surface or something. This noise happened only when it was cold.
Now, I can hear this ticking sound whenever I turn the wheel away from the straight position. A few months ago I replaced a front axle/CV boot, so I don't think it's due to bad CV boots. This ticking noise sounds like it's coming from the steering wheel column itself. The noise occurs whenever the steering wheel passes 12o'clock position.
Has anyone experienced this? Any advice? Thanks in advance.