I didn't smell coolant in my car, or maybe I was too busy enjoying the new car smell, which now I am missing. I only noticed it b/c someone else saw it in their driveway. When I drove it to Honda service they thought I was crazy too b/c my car was so new, until they found it themselves. I don't know what to tell you b/c I know nothing about cars. Maybe keep an eye on the level of coolant in your engine? :confuse:
Any new car dealership, will go out of their way to assist a customer that frequents their service facility.
If you are a frequent customer at their service department, you have already paid for the repair. What dealerships charge for routine maintenance is ridiculous, when you read the maintenance schedule, and see what they actually did, for the money.
>What dealerships charge for routine maintenance is ridiculous, when you read the maintenance schedule, and see what they actually did, for the money.
I agree in the case of many dealers, especially the imports here in this part of the country. They intimidate most owners. But I suspect DjM2 is present enough that the service managers do the right things and don't try the pimp my bill routine. There are service departments that are good. That's why I kept going back to the same dealer when I bought new cars.
A knowledgeable customer and friendly service manager can work well together. But the customer has to know about the car and about the recommendations. Otherwise they can get taken. A prime example is on oil change intervals. I don't want to start a discussion on it but the frequent oil change can spend a lot of money at the dealer.
imidazol97: My dealer charges about $23.00 for an oil and filter change, (with tax). I don't maintain the vehicle by the book. I have my own system of routine maintenance. For example, I believe in changing the trans fluid at least once a year. Depending on my driving, for a given period of time, I might drain this fluid twice during a given year. I have the engine coolant changed every two years. The four wheels are removed from the vehicle, and the brakes are cleaned and inspected twice a year, (in the Fall and Spring). If service is necessary it is done at this time. I do not want to have brake problems in the Winter or Summer, when I need to depend on my vehicle. Once a year,(in the Spring), I have a four wheel alignment done on the vehicle. ----- This works for me! ---- Best regards. Dwayne
The a/c on my 05 EX 4-door was not working very well, yesterday I finally took it in. The dealer looked at it (still under warranty) and this is what the service writer told me-
It was cooling to 48 degrees at the vents. They checked the system & the refrigerant was down 2 tenths of a kilogram (the system holds one kilogram). They topped it off, and it now cools to 44 degrees (this is on an 80 degree F day).
It's hot & humid today, and I just ran some errands at lunch and it does seem to be cooling better now. I'm glad I took it it, and glad they topped off the refrigerant even though it was down just a little.
I was just looking at the printout from the dealer and it says the technician "repositioned the water valve", and does not mention adding refrigerant. Not sure who to believe here, all I know is the air works much better now.
Just curious if anyone else with a 7th gen. Accord has experienced and wind noise or water leakage from the door seals. I first noticed the wind noise coming from the rear door drivers side. The other day I had my fiance drive the car while I sat in the back. Definitely getting wind noise toward the top/rear of the main window where it meets with the smaller window.
And to top it off:
About 2 weeks ago I had to return to work after 2 hours of getting off. So, instead of driving home 30 miles in the pouring rain and then driving back 1 hour later 30 miles I take a nap in the Accord. I reclined the front driver seat and put my hands on the back of my head. While asleep I feel a drop of water. Felt 2 drops within the 70 minutes I slept. All coming from the rear driver window area.
Anyone else with similar problems?
I looked at the door seals and they look fine. Maybe the door needs to be aligned?
Also, the large pocket below the radio does not open 100% of the time when you push on the "push" label of the pocket.
I'm really confussed about service intervals on my TWO 06 accords. Nowhere in the manual does it give a mileage indicator for service, such as "at xxxx miles, do this". The way I understand it, I'm suppossed to rely completly on the "motor minder" for service intervals. I don't like that at all. I asked for a mileage chart of some kind and my dealer didn't have one. I know to change the oil, rotate tires, etc, but I have no way of knowing what other services are required when. Maybe I'm old school, but I want a simple mileage chart. Any help out there? :confuse:
I would suggest going by what the 05 model intervals are. I wouldn't want to wait for the car to tell me either. You might have to buy an 05 manual to get it though.
PS: If anyone is wondering where they can get a factory service manual for their car (same one the dealer techs use), you can get them directly from Helm. Link below.
Directions for changing the cabin air filter are in the owner's manual. People really should check the manual for maintenance items. Many people are asking questions (on forums) they already have the answers to (in the owner's manual).
1st I heard that the 2006 has anti vibration windows that creates such a tight fit that no window tinting place will guarantee it from scratching. 2nd I was told that if the tint has metallic in it it will block the navigation. Is the nav not on the top roof? 3rd I was told that tinting will also cut down on the range of the key remote for the alarm system. Please let me know if anyone has got tint on a 2006 and what kind. Someone said a ceramic type would be the best.
The thing on top of the roof is the satellite radio antenna. The navigation antenna is under the rear shelf (between the speakers. I don't have satellite radio or nav, but I do have tinted windows (03 Accord). The windows were tinted by the dealer before I bought the car. I have had no problems with the tint scratching or anything else.
My 4DR LX 06 Accord was tinted by the dealership when I bought it. Of course they contract the tinting out to a local tint shop here in Beaverton Oregon where I bought it. It is a dark gray tint (non metallic). I did have to bring the car back to the dealership two days after the tinting had been done - so that the tint shop could install some kind of felt runner in the door where the window goes down. Yes - I was told this was to keep the windows from getting scratched - that part is true.
I don't know anything about the other issues with metallic tint.
Our display went out over the weekend and we took it today to the Honda dealer, who said they have had "quite a few" of these fail. We understand also that they have to replace the radio, not the display, and we are slightly over the 36/36 warranty. Hope Honda will honor the original warranty. BTW we have a 2003 EX V6 and are long time Honda owners. This is the first Accord on which we have had any warranty work, and this is the fourth item!
What model year Accord manual are you refering to? I have the manual for my 2006 Accord Sedan EX Auto 4 cyc in front of me. The only reference I can find to the cabin filter (called "dust and pollen filter") is on page 199 in the Maintenance Minder section. There are no instructions on how to change it out.
It is in the maintenance section, page 300, in my 03 Accord manual. It should be in your manual too. The filter is behind the glove box. Open the glove box, release the stop on the passenger side of the glove box, push in the tabs on the pollen filter case,and pull it out, and replace the filter. Be sure to put the new filter in with the arrows pointing down. (make sure tabs click into place when you push the case back in). Good luck.
We have a 2005 EXL and had the windows tinted about 5 months after we got the car. The right rear window rubs against the tint because it is so tight and you can hear it. The Honda Dealer told us it could put a strain on the motor and if somethng happens to it there is no coverage.
Furthermore, we haven't noticed any decrease in range for the remote keyless entry.
I bought a new honda accord se on 3rd july. It was working fine till 700 miles. But recently i am having gas pedal vibration and that is very annoying. The vibration is so constant that you will feel that your feet goes numb if you are not wearing your shoe while driving. I bought this vehicle from Indiana and currently i stay at pittsburgh, pa.
Does anyone have the same problem ? Can i go to dealer(s) in pittsburgh for this problem. Will they charge me for any repair work..any above all, does this problem have a solution?
vibration in the pedal may be indicative of a bad engine motor mount. if it is so bad your foot goes numb, dealership should be able to re-create with no problems.
are you merely trying to get more people with similar experience before you go in? why would the dealer charge you for a vehicle under warranty?
after using the search this discussion (where you will find some hits), why not try google the issue as well?
I just want to thank people for their reply and suggestions. I took my receipt and car to the Goodyear dealer and spoke with the manager. He initially kept saying the tire I got was exactly the same even though the load index number was different. I said that is not exactly the same. Instead of trying to convince me otherwise, he replaced the tire for me for no charge. I think I bought the tire at a higher price than the one I should have gotten, I just feel better the tire is now EXACTLY the same model. There is a flipside to my tire saga. The mechanic , 053 Russell S., who installed my tire is not the sharpest tool in the shed. When the car was raised up, I noticed my headlights were on. I didn't want to say anything since I am afraid he might sabatage the car. When the car was lowered after the tire was replaced, I looked at the car and the car was on and running idle all this tire (over 1/2 hour). The mechanic said he didn't know the car was running idle all this time. What an idiot! I would no recommend doing business at this Goodyear in Harrisburg. The manager was friendly but the mechanic and the sales guy were not too trustworthy or reliable. It was the sales guy who sold me the wrong tire and now I got a mechanic who can't tell if a car is running or not.
Thanks,I appreciate it. But...I couldn't sleep at night if I had that much mileage between oil changes! 10K in UNREAL! There's another problem with the motor minder system. I've discovered that all the services are attatched to the oil change intervals. Therefore, if you change the oil every 3000 - 4000 miles and reset the minder system, all the calculations are off. I'll be at a meeting with the Honda Service Mgr tomorrow night, so I'll try to question him on this, and all the talk I'm hearing (seeing on this forum) about the brakes prematurely wearing out. Wonder if I'll get a straight answer???
I bought a used 2003 Honda Accord a week ago and have found all four windows down when returning to the car after leaving it locked with windows down. It doesn't happen when the car is unlocked. It didn't come with an owner's manual, so I can't look it up.
right, like sticking it in the pants pocket with other keys and moving such that one of the buttons is pressed, or having a key within reach of a youngster or pet or in one of those over stuffed handbags.
When you pressed the button on the remote, you held it down too long (on the second push). If you press the lock or unlock button (I forget which one) twice, and hold it down the windows will all go down. You can not make them go back up with the remote, however. Hope this solves your mystery.
I agree with elroy 5. The same thing happened to me when I bought my 06, since I held the unlock button on the remote too long. I hope that on the next gemeration of accords, you can roll up the windows by holding the lock button.
Along with the vibration i feel that there is some friction when i press the gas pedal. Is this related to tight brakes? As it was running smooth for first 700 miles.
This model is out since last year now and i have not found any specific complains about this..so was bit apprehensive about it..
i'm not an expert in these things, just suggesting logical things. accelerator pedal resistance would not be linked to the brakes. check to see if you have bunching of any children plastic toys or your floor mat up in the accelerator pedal area.
now the accelerator / throttle body linkage is electronic (some call it drive by wire). there is no cable linkage between the accelerator and the valve at the top of the engine that admits more air when you press the pedal further.
perhaps your accelerator pedal has a spring which is getting stiff (? generally springs exercised over time get looser) or other pedal / sensor linkage is binding. maybe your foot position on the pedal (a function of how far your seat is from the dash and the length of your legs) has changed.
I cannot for the life of me find the recommended oil change intervals stated in the OWNERS MANUAL. The only information I've managed to find refers to the "oil life" indicator. Am I missing something? I did find info relating to the break-in period though. I have a new 2006 Accord ex-l. Thanks!
I finally understand this "motor minder" thing in my 06. First, let me say I HATE it! The oil life % is an indicator of how much longer untill it will need changing. When it gets down to 5%, it will tell you to change it each time you turn on the ignition. OK, I can live with that.
But....all the other reccomended services are attatched to the oil changes. Example: an oil change is service "A". Service "B" is a more through service including "checking" brakes, exhaust, suspension, etc etc etc.
Your motor minder will come up with either an "A" or a "B". Then there are "sub" catagories #1 thru #5. #1 is a tire rotation, that's all. #2 is replacing the air filter and inspecting the drive belts (the rest are all listed in your owners manual.)
So, if you get an "A" AND a #1, it's time for an oil change and tire rotation.
Still with me???
Here's why I hate it.... Each time you change the oil, the system is reset back to 100% oil life. OK, that's fine. BUT...if you change your oil prior to the system coming up and telling you to do so, and reset the meter, you will NEVER SEE THE OTHER SERVICES THAT ARE DUE! I have 12,000 on my 06, and have NEVER SEEN ANY MESAGES, because I change my oil every 3000 - 4000 miles. I definately should have seen the tire rotation code by now. But, each time my system was reset after an oil change, I lost the possibility of getting any other codes (1,2,3,4,5)
So, the bottom line is this: you either trust the system 100%, or have NOTHING to go on. I asked my dealer for a mileage chart to go by instead of the "motor minder", and they said their isn't one. I could go by the 05 mileage chart, but I have to buy an owners manual to get it (dealer says they don't have anything in print that I can even copy!) I'm planning on talking to Honda about this, because I just don't like it. I think they should give us an alternative to the "motor minder" syatem. Some of us are old school.
If I get anywhere with Honda, I'll post it here. Hope this helps and that I didn't confuse you too much.
This is why I make up my own maintenance schedule. Example: oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles, tire rotation every 6,000 miles, four wheel alignment (once a year), coolant change every two years, automatic trans fluid change (at least once a year / based on driving), starting & charging system check twice a year (Spring & Fall), brake check twice a year (Spring & Fall) ---- etc. I don't need the manufacturer to tell me when to service my vehicle. This system works for me! ---- Best regards. ---- Dwayne
How do you adjust the 3000 miles if you take a long highway trip? I assume most of your driving is short trip and I support 3000 there or even 2500 for lots of short trips and no 50 miles trips one way like I often drive when it's the cold Ohio winter weather.
i think when there's reference to "every", there's some lattitude, specially when taking a long trip. i don't know this for a fact, wonder if anyone knows, but i would assume start cycles and stop/go driving would be most destructive to oil quality (and quantity lost) since they are harder on the engine, so if you are doing a good 3K of driving (i mean what is the coast/coast distance in the US 5K, 6K, 7K?), then you are probably good to go waiting till the destination.
i'd be suspicious of letting regular oil go 7-10K myself. i'm always checking my oil every 3rd fill or so. hard to see the quality breakdown for a 5W-20 by sight, guess there are people that could. color does have something to do with it, but suppose that could be influenced by burning gases.
the thing i was always taught was the filter is the most important thing to change, moreso than the oil itself... hey i'm not sure i believe it completely but could be convinced.
i think people waiting 10K intervals are asking for potential issues. 3K seems a tad often to me (unnecessary but couldn't hurt providing crush washer is new and filter is new). 4-7K? Seems good. 10K Seems awfully long for a non-synthetic.
The maintenence minder system doesn't work off the mileage alone. It uses the number of engine revolutions and other factors. The computer keeps track of these things and determines when to do services according to your driving style. Or so the good book says. I still don't like it.
By the way, there isn't a downloadable owners manual on Owners Link. You can order one there, but no downloads. That would have been too easy.
This is a peculiar problem I have been having with my EX V6 now with about 13500 miles on it. About 2 weeks ago I started noticing that during hot rainy days when I would put on the windscreen defogger on the drive side window next to the outside mirrow would fog up. Now I can't see jackshit with the fogging. And this only seems to happen when I put the windscreen defogger on. If the AC is off this never happens. I will be taking the car to the dealership next week but has anybody else noticed this problem or has any comments? Would appreciate any feedback. PT.
It has happened to me, its because the drivers A/C vent is directed to the left and the glass is getting cold. The humid air outside then condenses on the cold glass.
Thanks. Will check it out. But I believe the vents on the side (both the passenger and the driver side) are directed towards the left, that means the window only. And they are probably fixed. I believe the fogging is on the outside of the window because I tried removing it with my hand but it didn't go away. PT.
Comments
You've got to be kidding. You must live in the land of OZ. Because only the Wizard himself, could get you that warranty. Are you a munchkin?
That would be THE LEAST they could do! If nothing is wrong with the car then they won't lose money right?
If you are a frequent customer at their service department, you have already paid for the repair. What dealerships charge for routine maintenance is ridiculous, when you read the maintenance schedule, and see what they actually did, for the money.
I agree in the case of many dealers, especially the imports here in this part of the country. They intimidate most owners. But I suspect DjM2 is present enough that the service managers do the right things and don't try the pimp my bill routine. There are service departments that are good. That's why I kept going back to the same dealer when I bought new cars.
A knowledgeable customer and friendly service manager can work well together. But the customer has to know about the car and about the recommendations. Otherwise they can get taken. A prime example is on oil change intervals. I don't want to start a discussion on it but the frequent oil change can spend a lot of money at the dealer.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My dealer charges about $23.00 for an oil and filter change, (with tax). I don't maintain the vehicle by the book. I have my own system of routine maintenance. For example, I believe in changing the trans fluid at least once a year. Depending on my driving, for a given period of time, I might drain this fluid twice during a given year. I have the engine coolant changed every two years. The four wheels are removed from the vehicle, and the brakes are cleaned and inspected twice a year, (in the Fall and Spring). If service is necessary it is done at this time. I do not want to have brake problems in the Winter or Summer, when I need to depend on my vehicle. Once a year,(in the Spring), I have a four wheel alignment done on the vehicle. ----- This works for me! ---- Best regards. Dwayne
It was cooling to 48 degrees at the vents. They checked the system & the refrigerant was down 2 tenths of a kilogram (the system holds one kilogram). They topped it off, and it now cools to 44 degrees (this is on an 80 degree F day).
It's hot & humid today, and I just ran some errands at lunch and it does seem to be cooling better now. I'm glad I took it it, and glad they topped off the refrigerant even though it was down just a little.
Dave
Dave
Do you have "Auto" climate controls or manual? If auto, maybe something was a little out of sync, just guessing.
Mrbill
And to top it off:
About 2 weeks ago I had to return to work after 2 hours of getting off. So, instead of driving home 30 miles in the pouring rain and then driving back 1 hour later 30 miles I take a nap in the Accord. I reclined the front driver seat and put my hands on the back of my head. While asleep I feel a drop of water. Felt 2 drops within the 70 minutes I slept. All coming from the rear driver window area.
Anyone else with similar problems?
I looked at the door seals and they look fine. Maybe the door needs to be aligned?
Also, the large pocket below the radio does not open 100% of the time when you push on the "push" label of the pocket.
I'll be taking it into the dealer for repair.
Car: 2006 Accord LX sedan automatic (4,4?? miles)
PS: If anyone is wondering where they can get a factory service manual for their car (same one the dealer techs use), you can get them directly from Helm. Link below.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=&class%5F2=AHM&mscsid- =J176309T1V269H8WQNKBMU255V8GABED
..dealer?
..AutoZone?
..Kragen
..good DIY on driveaccord.com
(dealer gets close to $60 parts and labor to install.....)
ez
http://www.handaaccessories.com/accmaint03.html
I don't know anything about the other issues with metallic tint.
10,000 miles for "Normal"
This is for 2005 Accord I-4 Oil and Filter Change, per the manual (checked my dad's 2005 EX today just for you, to make sure).
Furthermore, we haven't noticed any decrease in range for the remote keyless entry.
Does anyone have the same problem ? Can i go to dealer(s) in pittsburgh for this problem. Will they charge me for any repair work..any above all, does this problem have a solution?
are you merely trying to get more people with similar experience before you go in? why would the dealer charge you for a vehicle under warranty?
after using the search this discussion (where you will find some hits), why not try google the issue as well?
There's another problem with the motor minder system. I've discovered that all the services are attatched to the oil change intervals. Therefore, if you change the oil every 3000 - 4000 miles and reset the minder system, all the calculations are off. I'll be at a meeting with the Honda Service Mgr tomorrow night, so I'll try to question him on this, and all the talk I'm hearing (seeing on this forum) about the brakes prematurely wearing out. Wonder if I'll get a straight answer???
Any ideas on how to keep this from happening?
This model is out since last year now and i have not found any specific complains about this..so was bit apprehensive about it..
now the accelerator / throttle body linkage is electronic (some call it drive by wire). there is no cable linkage between the accelerator and the valve at the top of the engine that admits more air when you press the pedal further.
perhaps your accelerator pedal has a spring which is getting stiff (? generally springs exercised over time get looser) or other pedal / sensor linkage is binding. maybe your foot position on the pedal (a function of how far your seat is from the dash and the length of your legs) has changed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
But....all the other reccomended services are attatched to the oil changes. Example: an oil change is service "A".
Service "B" is a more through service including "checking" brakes, exhaust, suspension, etc etc etc.
Your motor minder will come up with either an "A" or a "B". Then there are "sub" catagories #1 thru #5.
#1 is a tire rotation, that's all.
#2 is replacing the air filter and inspecting the drive belts
(the rest are all listed in your owners manual.)
So, if you get an "A" AND a #1, it's time for an oil change and tire rotation.
Still with me???
Here's why I hate it....
Each time you change the oil, the system is reset back to 100% oil life. OK, that's fine.
BUT...if you change your oil prior to the system coming up and telling you to do so, and reset the meter, you will NEVER SEE THE OTHER SERVICES THAT ARE DUE!
I have 12,000 on my 06, and have NEVER SEEN ANY MESAGES, because I change my oil every 3000 - 4000 miles. I definately should have seen the tire rotation code by now. But, each time my system was reset after an oil change, I lost the possibility of getting any other codes (1,2,3,4,5)
So, the bottom line is this: you either trust the system 100%, or have NOTHING to go on. I asked my dealer for a mileage chart to go by instead of the "motor minder", and they said their isn't one. I could go by the 05 mileage chart, but I have to buy an owners manual to get it (dealer says they don't have anything in print that I can even copy!)
I'm planning on talking to Honda about this, because I just don't like it. I think they should give us an alternative to the "motor minder" syatem. Some of us are old school.
If I get anywhere with Honda, I'll post it here.
Hope this helps and that I didn't confuse you too much.
you could, by the way, get a maintenance schedule for an '05 on the Owner's Link through the Honda website.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That's what I was about to say. And it won't cost you anything. You can just print out the 05 schedule, and use that. Simple solution.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
i'd be suspicious of letting regular oil go 7-10K myself. i'm always checking my oil every 3rd fill or so. hard to see the quality breakdown for a 5W-20 by sight, guess there are people that could. color does have something to do with it, but suppose that could be influenced by burning gases.
the thing i was always taught was the filter is the most important thing to change, moreso than the oil itself... hey i'm not sure i believe it completely but could be convinced.
i think people waiting 10K intervals are asking for potential issues. 3K seems a tad often to me (unnecessary but couldn't hurt providing crush washer is new and filter is new). 4-7K? Seems good. 10K Seems awfully long for a non-synthetic.
By the way, there isn't a downloadable owners manual on Owners Link. You can order one there, but no downloads. That would have been too easy.
About 2 weeks ago I started noticing that during hot rainy days when I would put on the windscreen defogger on the drive side window next to the outside mirrow would fog up.
Now I can't see jackshit with the fogging. And this only seems to happen when I put the windscreen defogger on. If the AC is off this never happens.
I will be taking the car to the dealership next week but has anybody else noticed this problem or has any comments?
Would appreciate any feedback.
PT.
It has happened to me, its because the drivers A/C vent is directed to the left and the glass is getting cold. The humid air outside then condenses on the cold glass.
Mrbill
Will check it out. But I believe the vents on the side (both the passenger and the driver side) are directed towards the left, that means the window only. And they are probably fixed.
I believe the fogging is on the outside of the window because I tried removing it with my hand but it didn't go away.
PT.