What does your Helms shop manual specify for automatic transmission fluid exchange intervals? The Honda Accord Owners Manual Maintenance Schedule specifies 120,000 mileNormal service intervals or 60,000 mileSevere service intervals. That goes for either the 4 or 6 cylinder models of the latest generation Accords.
As long as you are disregarding the transmission manufacturer's advice, instead of changing your fluid every 15,000 miles as you stated in post #1478, why don't you do it at 5,000 or 10,000 miles?
What does your Helms shop manual specify for automatic transmission fluid exchange intervals?
It says the same thing the owner's manual says.
why don't you do it at 5,000 or 10,000 miles?
It's just the mileage I came up with. I had to pick something, and I was definitely not going to wait until 60k. Since I do it myself, and it cost less than an oil change (less than $15), and it's easy as pie on the V6 tranny, I figured I would have done it 4 times by 60k miles. If I see the fluid is looking dirty or smelling burnt, I may switch to 10k miles (don't see that happening though). 15k miles is just the starting point.
Unfortunately my new accord was rearended recently. How do I ensure that it fixed to exact standards that is original honda parts , paint that does not fade with time and the paint is also clear coat protected. Is it OK to go to a body shop recommended by the insurance company
Generally your insurance policy will indicate that they can replace damaged parts with "like (generic) parts"...they do not guarantee you will get genuine Honda parts.
Many insurance companies will try to get you to go to the one they recommend...who has undoubtedly agreed with the company to do it as cheaply as possible.
Find out who runs the most trustworthy body shop in town and demand that your insurance company agree to your selection. And then make sure that shop orders genuine Honda parts.
read your policy carefully. if you were rear-ended, you weren't at fault, right? so i'd push for having GENUINE HONDA parts all around. in fact, i bet your dealership has a collision repair, or one of the dealerships in your area does. one would hope they'd know a thing or two about their vehicles...
was the frame bent at all? if there was significant damage to the frame, i'd be weary of them putting the unit on a straightening machine.
Just throwing this out there....if you were rear ended, your insurance policy has nothing to do with the repairs that are made to your vehicle. The policy which applies is the policy that the driver who rear ended you had at the time of the accident. Your insurance carrier will only get involved if, for example, the other insurance carrier denies coverage. Normally you will be successful in demanding genuine parts from the other insurance carrier, but not necessarily without some headache.
That's all well and good if the at-fault driver is current with his public liability and property damage coverage*. Otherwise, the victim will either have to submit a claim to his own insurance company under his collision coverage - minus whatever deductable applies, or just bite the bullet, himself, for repairs with the option to sue the at-fault driver for damages**.
*I believe in some states drivers can opt to post a cash bond with the their state's department of motor vehicles in lieu of carrying PLPD insurance.
**even a favorable ruling is no guarantee the victim will ever see a dime of the judgment. Look at how much Ron Goldman has managed to collect from O.J. Simpson in the wrongful death award he won...
Years ago I was rear ended while stopped on the LIE in NY.
My insurance company paid the entire cost of repair and then I simply subjugated the claim to them and they, in turn, sued the at fault driver's insurance company.
Had I no collision insurance then I would have had to be reimbursed (or sue) for damages by the at fault driver's insurance...assuming that the at fault driver didn't (laugh) try to claim that I backed into him on the expressway.
continuing... your vehicle has all the panels labeled with a VIN. when you go to sell your vehicle, someone can look it all over and determine the rear-end is not original.
you may wish to consider seeking deminished value compensation as well.
in otherwords, your vehicle, even if repaired functionally to original has incurred a value hit because it has a history of being repaired which you may have to disclose, or which can be determined by a subsequent purchaser. :sick:
You can claim diminution of value if someone ELSE hits you, but you can't claim it against your own insurance company--so he's okay to make such a claim. Insurance companies fight Diminution Claims like banshees, so be prepared for a hostile reception.
I have a 2006 Accord EX-L, and made a note of the fluid levels the day I purchased it. After a few thousand miles, I noticed that the "cold" coolent level had dropper an inch or so in the overflow resevoir to the min mark. I added a cup of Honda coolent and marked the level. After a thousand additional miles, I noticed that the "cold" coolent level had dropped another quarter to half inch. There are no visible leaks (garage floor). Is this something to be concerned about? I will eventually bring it in to the dealer for my first oil change, but thought I would get some opinions first.
)) "After a few thousand miles, I noticed that the "cold" coolent level had dropper an inch or so in the overflow resevoir to the min mark. I added a cup of Honda coolent and marked the level. After a thousand additional miles, I noticed that the "cold" coolent level had dropped another quarter to half inch. ... Is this something to be concerned about? I will eventually bring it in to the dealer for my first oil change, but thought I would get some opinions first." ((
No. The initial drop in level represented the pressurized system working the last vestiges of trapped air out and sucking liquid from the overflow reservoir in to replace it. That left the reservoir down the first time you checked it. The extra 3/8" or so over the next thousand miles was just normal evaporation. Even though the coolant mix is half glycol and a very small volume of corrosion inhibitors (roughly 2 1/2% of the total volume), the H2O content is still subject to evaporation since the overflow reservoir is purposely left unsealed to allow excess fluid overflow to drain to the pavement in the event of overheating. As the weather cools off, expect fluid loss to be minimal.
shifty, minute point: i don't believe this is true. i was involved in an accident where i was at fault, and my insurance co. issued a check subsequent to all repairs for diminished value.
yesterday i resolved to treating myself to purchasing some good ramps and the materials needed to change my own oil (besides ramps, recycle collection resevoir, funnel, filter, filter cap tool and some oil).
i managed to change my oil quicker than its typically done for me and i took my time.
very easy, very rewarding.
now then, i'm one step closer to doing making my own ATF changes.
My 03 Accord Coupe V6 was also rear-ended with minor damage earlier this year, and was repaired satisfactorily. The body shop was a Honda dealer's and was among my insurance company's accredited shops.
In your case, I'd take the step of asking the recommended shop about them using genuine parts or not, and a brief explanation of the repair steps. If you have some time, do a web search of "___________(shop's name) complaints" or go to http://www.bbb.org/
If you're not happy with your findings, ask for a cash settlement from your or the other party's insurer and have the car repaired by another shop to your satisfaction.
On claiming against what insurance company, you may claim against 1) the other party's insurer, with some waiting time involved, but there won't be any deductible; meaning, you'll get the whole repair settlement in full. Since your insurer isn't involved, your premium should be unaffected. Or, 2) your insurer, with minimal waiting timg, but you'll need to come up with the deductible amount. Additionally, your premium may increase because of the claim.
On dimunition of value, State Farm (I live in Atlanta) compensated me based on a resale value formula.
FYI - I hd the dealer perform the service bulletin. It corrected the problem of headlights dimming when the transmission was engaging / disengaging. Good luck to others. Email me directly at mtputin@aol.com with questions....SOLD THE ACCORD to a dealer for $16,500. Picked up 95 Camry for winter car and moving toward toy car...Acura NSX? next summer.
A little knowledge, and a little common sense, go a long way. The shop manual is a great idea, even if you don't use it that much, because you can learn a lot about how your car's systems work, and what makes it "tick" as they say. Some people try to do their own maintenance without a manual, but there are certain procedures for doing things. Something that may seem simple (changing coolant) is not as simple as drain and fill. Air becomes trapped in the cooling system, if it's not done correctly.
I have a 2002 Honda Accord that is loosing its paint. I took the car to a couple of auto body shops and they think the car had body work done in the past and it is loosing its paint as a result of a bad paint job earlier. When I bought this car this I reviewed the car fax report but it did not have any such work mentioned in it. I was new to this country and didn't have much knowledge in buying a used cars. I guess that is the risk in buying a used car.
The question I have is what is the best course of action? If I continue to use the car as it is, would there be corrosive damage since its lost its paint at few places(Trunk & Front engine lid)? The estimates run from $900 to 1500. I can't figure out if
a. Should use it as it is and sell it after a few years in as is condition? b. Should I sell it in as is condition immediately? c. Should I get a paint job done and then sell it?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Btw, I bought this car for $12500, one and half years back. Is it reasonable to expect $1500 less from private party value given in KBB?
If your vehicle is otherwise in fine shape (you didn't mention the mileage or mechanical condition) you should consider keeping it, with or without the cosmetics of a paint job.
Do you see metal or rust where it has lost its paint? If not, an inexpensive touchup would be worth considering.
i would like to know the answers to the questions blane has asked, as well. I would also add to that: what model is it?
If its an EX with low miles and mechanically sound, I'd probably get the paint fixed. Accords hold their value really well as long as there is nothing major wrong with it. Rotting body panels due to not having paint on them is a major problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 2003 Accord EX with 72000 miles and I also have the SRS light on. I have the same problem. Can you please verify what exactly is wrong in your case. In my case the Seatback OPDS unit is defective and needs to be replaced. This is the unit which detects if an adult or a child is riding on the passenger seat and determines if the air bags should go off or not on the passenger side.
The Bulletin also says that it is applicable to Model Year 94-04 Honda and Acura cars, but my dealer ran a check on my VIN and said it is not applicable in my case.
I am another one that had the radio display go out. I just got it replaced by Honda for no cost to me. I called American Honda like others recommended here and they had me stop the dealership in Snellville, GA and they checked my radio and then ordered the part and I had it replaced last week. It is great to be able to see the radio and air conditioning again!!!! American Honda and Carey Paul Honda did a great job for me and I have over 80,000 miles on my 2003 Accord. So, it can still be done to get Honda to replace your radio for no cost to you. thx.
My driver seat warmer appears to be running all the time even though the switch is set to off. Noticed it the other day (before they changed the radio out). I can cycle the switch off and on but the seat warmer will not go off. Has anyone else seen a problem like this? I don't know if the switch is bad or something else. Should I replace the switch? thx. :surprise:
My grey leather gets so warm, I thought the heater was on but the it wasn't. The sun really affects them. But I noticed the other seat was just as warm and I doubt both switches would fail at the same time. It may just be the sun in your case also.
The cold coolent level dropped a little more, and is now back down to around the min line again. Maybe it is due to evaporation; but I would think it shouldn't drop at all in a two week time span. Called the service dept, and they said it was normal and not to worry. I will ask about it at my first oil change. Never noticed this in my other cars though.
Recently I have a chance to have a test drive of 2007 VP. However I feel the transmission of 2007 is much smoother than the 06 model. Does anyone, who owns 06 VP, feel the transmission of 06 not smooth? For me, I still can feel the vibration when it changes the gear even after the break-in period.
I have a travel yesterday. The trip is about 90% highway. However the highway condition is not perfect that there are a lots of road work. So the speed is not constant even on highway. And my front tire pressure is around 33.5psi and rear tire is about 33psi. Finally the gas mileage is around 39mpg. Can anyone give some suggestion to improve it? My car is 06 VP. Thanks.
Sometimes the "automatic" shoulder belt on my 1994 Mercury Villager (same as Nissan Quest) will lock in the open position. Jiggling, bouncing, pressing buttons, tugging... nothing gets it to slide back where it should be when the car is moving.
Then, a few minutes or hours or days later it will start working normally again.
Please help me trouble-shoot and fix this problem.
I just got the car last friday and has 50 some miles on it. But when the car is either accelerating or decelerating, I can clearly hear this continuous noise coming from the front driver side around the wheel/suspension area. Anybody knows what the problem can be?
Um, try posting on a Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager board, or at least something related to minivans...this place is for Accord owners, and likely won't know much about a Mercury minivan.
hybrid--did you ever get your problem fixed? i am having the same problem with the passenger side leak in my 2003 accord. it pools in the foot well of the passenger side. it looks like it leaks from the door into the roof, then down the front of the door. i am taking it to a honda dealer today, but just wondering if you got a solution to your problem.
Well, there are a lot of issues. I only use air condition for 60% trip for it is cool in the morning. The estimate of EPA is not that accurate. Currently only way I know is increase the tire pressure reasonably higher than the recommendation. Maybe thinner engine oil and plantium spark plug may also help. I think we should save some money on the overpriced accord, don't we?
no, epa isn't that accurate. But MOST drivers get BELOW epa estimates. So I still say you are doing great.
Yes, you can run higher tire pressures. Just gotta watch that fine line between highest pressure and uneven tire wear. I'd rather pay a few pennies more at the pump each week than go through tires at twice the normal rate.
What plugs does the Accord come with? They may very well already be platinum.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Just had an intermittent problem with my Cruise Control and wanted to know if anyone else has had a similar issue.
I generally leave the cruise control on all the time as I use it frequently. I went to set it the other day and nothing happened. Turned it off/on, tried again, still nothing. Pulled over, made sure cruise was off, turned off the vehicle and restarted it. Upon going to set the cruise control again, it worked just fine.
I've now begun to make sure the cruise control is off, when I reach my destinations and this appears to have alleviated the problem. However, due to my established habit of leaving it on, I forget to turn it off sometimes. The last three instances of doing this, I have not had the problem return.
If the problem does return, I'll go back to turning it off again at the conclusion of my trips.
Both cars probably have the same 5-sp automatic transmission which made its debut with the '03 Accord models. As far as the shift quality differences you noted, my guess would be that the '07 you test drove still has some slight slippage in the friction materials (conceptually similar to brake pad material) that will firm up as the tranny runs in and final milling of those fibrous friction surfaces occurs. Speaking from my experience with my late, lamented '96 Accord (I4, 4-sp) its shifts were initially butter smooth, but by several hundred miles had firmed up considerably - too much according to some owners of the time. Honda addressed that complaint with the new 5-sp box intro'd in model year '03.
)) "What plugs does the Accord come with? They may very well already be platinum." ((
Since the Accord engines' first scheduled spark plug changeouts are listed at or slightly beyond 100,000 miles, the factory spark plugs would have to already be either platinum or iridium tipped. (The latter's somewhat less espensive, but functionally equivalent.)
I can't believe someone who's getting 39 mpg in a midsize car would complain it's too low... Oh, and by the way anderson123, your engine came filled from the factory with, and is recommended for use only with, 5W-20 motor oil. That viscosity grade's already on the thin side of thin, but perfectly adequate for your engine's longterm health as determined by the engineers who designed it. I'm not certain an xW-15 or xW-10 motor oil is even available in North America - well short of the arctic circle, anyway. (It's the final double-digit number in the sequence that indicates an internal combustion motor oil's viscosity at operating temperature.)
)) "Just had an intermittent problem with my Cruise Control and wanted to know if anyone else has had a similar issue." ((
Chalk it up to a random freeze-up - welcome to the computer age...
The Heisenberg Principle of Unpredictability - aka, "Murphy's Law": anything that can go wrong, will. (Murph was an optimist.) Ever wondered why there are so many redundant systems on aircraft, spacecraft, and nuclear submarines?
Comments
do you end up replacing the sealing washer?
yeah, I was thinking a funnel with a short length of flexible hosing.
is this a Honda Service Manual?
would you think the procedure would be essentially the same for a V6 5SPD like in an ODYSSEY?
thanks.
Make sure the funnel will fit in the dipstick hole, if you're doing a 4cyl tranny (very small end).
Yes, it's the 2003-2005 service manual. I get one for every car I own. $70 from Helminc.com http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=&class%5F2=AHM&mscsid- =J176309T1V269H8WQNKBMU255V8GABED. I had to get the V6 supplement too. I will not pay someone to do what I can do myself. If the manual saves you one trip to the dealer, it has paid for itself.
Probably not the same for a 5spd. If you want I can scan that page for you too. Happy Hondaing
What does your Helms shop manual specify for automatic transmission fluid exchange intervals? The Honda Accord Owners Manual Maintenance Schedule specifies 120,000 mile Normal service intervals or 60,000 mile Severe service intervals. That goes for either the 4 or 6 cylinder models of the latest generation Accords.
As long as you are disregarding the transmission manufacturer's advice, instead of changing your fluid every 15,000 miles as you stated in post #1478, why don't you do it at 5,000 or 10,000 miles?
It says the same thing the owner's manual says.
why don't you do it at 5,000 or 10,000 miles?
It's just the mileage I came up with. I had to pick something, and I was definitely not going to wait until 60k. Since I do it myself, and it cost less than an oil change (less than $15), and it's easy as pie on the V6 tranny, I figured I would have done it 4 times by 60k miles. If I see the fluid is looking dirty or smelling burnt, I may switch to 10k miles (don't see that happening though). 15k miles is just the starting point.
also had an independant shop specializing in Hondas with seasoned ex dealer-techs tell me do it on 30K intervals.
FWIW.
elroy5: could I see the page from the V6 5spd? thanks.
Is it OK to go to a body shop recommended by the insurance company
Thank You
Many insurance companies will try to get you to go to the one they recommend...who has undoubtedly agreed with the company to do it as cheaply as possible.
Find out who runs the most trustworthy body shop in town and demand that your insurance company agree to your selection. And then make sure that shop orders genuine Honda parts.
was the frame bent at all? if there was significant damage to the frame, i'd be weary of them putting the unit on a straightening machine.
*I believe in some states drivers can opt to post a cash bond with the their state's department of motor vehicles in lieu of carrying PLPD insurance.
**even a favorable ruling is no guarantee the victim will ever see a dime of the judgment. Look at how much Ron Goldman has managed to collect from O.J. Simpson in the wrongful death award he won...
My insurance company paid the entire cost of repair and then I simply subjugated the claim to them and they, in turn, sued the at fault driver's insurance company.
Had I no collision insurance then I would have had to be reimbursed (or sue) for damages by the at fault driver's insurance...assuming that the at fault driver didn't (laugh) try to claim that I backed into him on the expressway.
you may wish to consider seeking deminished value compensation as well.
in otherwords, your vehicle, even if repaired functionally to original has incurred a value hit because it has a history of being repaired which you may have to disclose, or which can be determined by a subsequent purchaser. :sick:
Thanks!
..can anyone recall a TSB on this?
..thanks, ez..
2005 AV6 6M coupe
No. The initial drop in level represented the pressurized system working the last vestiges of trapped air out and sucking liquid from the overflow reservoir in to replace it. That left the reservoir down the first time you checked it. The extra 3/8" or so over the next thousand miles was just normal evaporation. Even though the coolant mix is half glycol and a very small volume of corrosion inhibitors (roughly 2 1/2% of the total volume), the H2O content is still subject to evaporation since the overflow reservoir is purposely left unsealed to allow excess fluid overflow to drain to the pavement in the event of overheating. As the weather cools off, expect fluid loss to be minimal.
just wanted to follow up with thanks.
yesterday i resolved to treating myself to purchasing some good ramps and the materials needed to change my own oil (besides ramps, recycle collection resevoir, funnel, filter, filter cap tool and some oil).
i managed to change my oil quicker than its typically done for me and i took my time.
very easy, very rewarding.
now then, i'm one step closer to doing making my own ATF changes.
i might go ahead and get the manual.
i deserve it.
thanks again.
In your case, I'd take the step of asking the recommended shop about them using genuine parts or not, and a brief explanation of the repair steps. If you have some time, do a web search of "___________(shop's name) complaints" or go to http://www.bbb.org/
If you're not happy with your findings, ask for a cash settlement from your or the other party's insurer and have the car repaired by another shop to your satisfaction.
On claiming against what insurance company, you may claim against
1) the other party's insurer, with some waiting time involved, but there won't be any deductible; meaning, you'll get the whole repair settlement in full. Since your insurer isn't involved, your premium should be unaffected. Or,
2) your insurer, with minimal waiting timg, but you'll need to come up with the deductible amount. Additionally, your premium may increase because of the claim.
On dimunition of value, State Farm (I live in Atlanta) compensated me based on a resale value formula.
Hope this helps.
A little knowledge, and a little common sense, go a long way. The shop manual is a great idea, even if you don't use it that much, because you can learn a lot about how your car's systems work, and what makes it "tick" as they say. Some people try to do their own maintenance without a manual, but there are certain procedures for doing things. Something that may seem simple (changing coolant) is not as simple as drain and fill. Air becomes trapped in the cooling system, if it's not done correctly.
I have a 2002 Honda Accord that is loosing its paint. I took the car to a couple of auto body shops and they think the car had body work done in the past and it is loosing its paint as a result of a bad paint job earlier. When I bought this car this I reviewed the car fax report but it did not have any such work mentioned in it. I was new to this country and didn't have much knowledge in buying a used cars. I guess that is the risk in buying a used car.
The question I have is what is the best course of action? If I continue to use the car as it is, would there be corrosive damage since its lost its paint at few places(Trunk & Front engine lid)? The estimates run from $900 to 1500. I can't figure out if
a. Should use it as it is and sell it after a few years in as is condition?
b. Should I sell it in as is condition immediately?
c. Should I get a paint job done and then sell it?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Btw, I bought this car for $12500, one and half years back. Is it reasonable to expect $1500 less from private party value given in KBB?
Thanks.
Arun. "
Do you see metal or rust where it has lost its paint? If not, an inexpensive touchup would be worth considering.
If its an EX with low miles and mechanically sound, I'd probably get the paint fixed. Accords hold their value really well as long as there is nothing major wrong with it. Rotting body panels due to not having paint on them is a major problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 2003 Accord EX with 72000 miles and I also have the SRS light on. I have the same problem. Can you please verify what exactly is wrong in your case. In my case the Seatback OPDS unit is defective and needs to be replaced. This is the unit which detects if an adult or a child is riding on the passenger seat and determines if the air bags should go off or not on the passenger side.
The 01 accords have this problem and Honda issued a recall in their case. The URL is http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/results.cfm?action_number=PE05- 043&SearchType=QuickSearch&summary=true
The Bulletin also says that it is applicable to Model Year 94-04 Honda and Acura cars, but my dealer ran a check on my VIN and said it is not applicable in my case.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
AM
American Honda and Carey Paul Honda did a great job for me and I have over 80,000 miles on my 2003 Accord. So, it can still be done to get Honda to replace your radio for no cost to you. thx.
Let me know how you make out with your Accord Lx.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Then, a few minutes or hours or days later it will start working normally again.
Please help me trouble-shoot and fix this problem.
Thanks.
Yes, you can run higher tire pressures. Just gotta watch that fine line between highest pressure and uneven tire wear. I'd rather pay a few pennies more at the pump each week than go through tires at twice the normal rate.
What plugs does the Accord come with? They may very well already be platinum.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Just had an intermittent problem with my Cruise Control and wanted to know if anyone else has had a similar issue.
I generally leave the cruise control on all the time as I use it frequently. I went to set it the other day and nothing happened. Turned it off/on, tried again, still nothing. Pulled over, made sure cruise was off, turned off the vehicle and restarted it. Upon going to set the cruise control again, it worked just fine.
I've now begun to make sure the cruise control is off, when I reach my destinations and this appears to have alleviated the problem. However, due to my established habit of leaving it on, I forget to turn it off sometimes. The last three instances of doing this, I have not had the problem return.
If the problem does return, I'll go back to turning it off again at the conclusion of my trips.
Anyone else experience anything like this?
btw - Car has 37,000 miles. Thx!
You might want to use synthetic for an increase in mileage.
Mrbill
Since the Accord engines' first scheduled spark plug changeouts are listed at or slightly beyond 100,000 miles, the factory spark plugs would have to already be either platinum or iridium tipped. (The latter's somewhat less espensive, but functionally equivalent.)
I can't believe someone who's getting 39 mpg in a midsize car would complain it's too low... Oh, and by the way anderson123, your engine came filled from the factory with, and is recommended for use only with, 5W-20 motor oil. That viscosity grade's already on the thin side of thin, but perfectly adequate for your engine's longterm health as determined by the engineers who designed it. I'm not certain an xW-15 or xW-10 motor oil is even available in North America - well short of the arctic circle, anyway. (It's the final double-digit number in the sequence that indicates an internal combustion motor oil's viscosity at operating temperature.)
Chalk it up to a random freeze-up - welcome to the computer age...
The Heisenberg Principle of Unpredictability - aka, "Murphy's Law": anything that can go wrong, will. (Murph was an optimist.) Ever wondered why there are so many redundant systems on aircraft, spacecraft, and nuclear submarines?