5w20 oil has less film and shear strength than a 5w30, 10w30 or a 0w30 motor oil. This can lead to increased engine wear under today's demanding heat and high-stress engine performance conditions.
So I don't really like the idea of using 5w20. I think I may chang to 5w30 synthetic in the future. How do your think?
i'd have to agree, anderson123's report of 39 is awesome and i can't believe there's a desire / expectation to do better, but what the heck:
let's see: inflating tires to max sidewall, going to a slightly larger tire size (maybe/maybe not), removing the side view mirrors, removing the windshield wipers, removing the front license plate holder, removing mudflats, avoiding AC, going with synthetic oil, perhaps messing with the F/A ratio.
but why? doing any of those things would result in operability issues, or additional cost / complexity not worth it in the long run... well, if the state doesn't require it, i'd loose the front license plate holder.
I've driven on the factory Bridgestone 16s, then Michelin 17s and currently Falken 17s on my 03 Accord V6 (same generation as the 06/07 model) and for my type of driving - which is brisk interstate but moderate city driving -, the Michelin Pilots have performed best in terms of treadlife, quietness, and overall grip.
The Bridgestones (Turanza) were somewhat quieter but wore quickly, and the Falkens (512) - quite a value btw - were smooth & quiet driving straight but "notchy" (jagged sensation in steering wheel) when turning.
Had Continentals on a previous Accord, which I'll probably rank last among brands mentioned here.
I'm sure these tiremakers have premium/pricier models whose consumer feedbacks you can review at Tirerack.com.
What is your goal? IMO, changing the tires on your Accord will not reduce road noise appreciably. Honda's are great cars...I own/owned 3 in the last 5 years, however, IMO they are noisy & ride too rough for the average commuter. I still buy Hondas because they offer the best bang for your buck.
Consumer reports states that road noise is apprarent in just about all of the '06-'07 Honda lineup.
I replaced my OEM Michelin MXV4's with Toyo Proxes TPT's and the road noise was even more apparent.
Let us know if your new tires reduce noise or soften the suspension blows.
first off, if you are driving an accord and appreciate the road feedback, i don't think you want to go to a sidewall that is less stiff. it will affect cornering responsiveness, and that is an unacceptable compromise in my opinion.
i think sidewall stiffness, rubber compound, tread design, inflation pressure and some others will affect transmission of road imperfections to the body.
i have a set of michelin harmony's on my 02 accord, and they seem fine to me.
i did not purchase a honda to have disconnected / sound isolation. situational awareness of road conditions and feedback in steering / response have been very important to me as a driver.
)) "[per quoted Amsoil information] 5w20 oil has less film and shear strength than a 5w30, 10w30 or a 0w30 motor oil. This can lead to increased engine wear under today's demanding heat and high-stress engine performance conditions." ((
Not arguing with you, nor questioning Amsoil's expertise, but several points to mull over:
1) Personally, I have no argument against your choice. (I run a 10W-30 synthetic blend in my '03 Sonata's V6 - it rarely even gets down to +40 F. where I live.) You're doing NO harm to your Honda engine running 5W-30 - especially if it's Amsoil - 'bout as good as it gets short of pricey, niche Euro-blends. (If you're running a conventional 5W-30 anderson123, consider switching to Motorcraft 5W-30. It's a synthetic blend at conventional pricing and available virtually everywhere in the U.S.) In the Japanese home market, Honda still recommends 10W-30 for maximum engine life. 5W-20 is only recommended in that market for maximum fuel economy - basically Honda's confirming Amsoil's points in its home market owner's manuals.
2) That said, used oil analyses posted over at BobIsTheOilGuy show consistently excellent results with the use of 5W-20 oils in engines recommended for them: DaimlerChrysler Honda (which has recommended 5W-20 since MY 1999) Toyota Hyundai Ford (GM and Euro automakers are still sitting on the fence on this issue, though the EPA is pressuring them to migrate to 5W-20 for U.S.-bound cars.)
3) For whatever reason, conventional 5W-30 and 10W-30 motor oils typically shear back to a high 20-weight in use within the first 2000-3000 miles and then slowly climb back as the oil loads with oxidative products in use. The 5W-20s seem to hold their initial operating temperature viscosity within range. Speculative posts on BITOG favor the idea that the 5W-20s are blended with some synthetic content whether labled containing such or not. Synthetic base oils hold their rated viscosity very well under heat.
I have a 2006 Accord LX with 5000 miles on it. When I shift the transmission from P to R or P to D the first time in the morning, the car jerks a little (not much). This does not happen during subsequent shifts. My car is always on a level surface when this happens. Also, I always warm up my engine such that the RPM drops to 1000 and the temperature gauge goes past the 'C' (cold) before I shift the transmission. I live in North Carolina and it is not cold here now.
I also tried shifting without warming up the engine. The jerk is still there but it is neither more or less than it is when the engine is warmed up.
Is this something to do with the transmission fluid not being warm enough? Does anyone else have this problem?
Glad to share experiences. It seems that Honda/Acura vehicles have quietness and isolation as concessions rather than priorities, which is to say that "quiet" tires would - my guess - probably only do so much.
I see you drive a 5-series; we have one in the family, and I'm impressed with its contrary mix of control and cabin quietness. The sudden but still muted exhaust roar on acceleration is a treat. Maybe Honda's not far behind.
I have a 3 year BMW 545 lease with 20 months to go. I want my wife to learn how to drive. The 545 is "off limits" for driving instruction. They don't make a tranquilizer strong enough. I'm thinking Accord EX V-6 automatic. I'm a strong believer in value and for around $25k, I feel there is no better automotive value out there, considering the excellence of the vehicle. No complicated electronics. No big blind spots. Easy power to boost confidence. Good for someone to learn driving. I'm sure I will like it too.
The consensus seems to be stay with the original tires since the road noise would be there even with a tire upgrade.
However, someone on another board told me the Accord will have a major change next year as a 2008. It just may pay to wait?
Have one myself (the 03 model). It is a very good car, and I have had no problems with it. It's not a 545, for sure, but still a nice car. Like you said, the best you can get, IMO, for 25k. You can probably get an 07 for less than the 08 will be. And you would probably have to wait another year, for the 08 Accords to come out.
Haha. Not to mention having to pry the 5's steering wheel off her hands, since she'll get addicted to it.
Agree with the Accord's "appeal points," since my wife drives an 03 sedan and she loves it. The 4 cyl variant is significantly lighter to handle vs the 6. Ergonomics and visibility are excellent, except for the front A-pillars which are a visibility issue for some people.
If Honda follows the Accord's model lifecycle of 5 years, which I believe they will because of intense competition, yes an all-new Accord should be out in Sep 07 as the new 8th gen. That should be worth waiting for imo.
I'd go with an EX-L 4-cylinder; nearly the same features as the V6, but much better fuel economy. If she's learning to drive, she'll still find loads of power in the I-4, especially around town. I've never felt like I needed more power (just drive a 4-cyl and see how it feels). It's VERY responsive and smooth for a 4-cylinder, better than many V6s.
A 4-cylinder Accord of some sort is probably better for her. Maybe one with moderately low miles...
Just in case this driving thing doesn't quite work out for her and she decides that she doesn't like going to the mall on her own whenever she wants, shopping 'til she drops. Like that's ever going to happen!
I only mentioned the EX-L because they seem to like high-dollar, more luxurious cars. Going to an LX or VP would probably seem like a major step down (manual adjustable seats, manual A/C, single-disc CD, hubcaps vs. Alloys). I think all of the models propose a good value (especially the LX-SE), but for them, maybe the upscale model would suit them best. I dunno, only they perfectly know their needs.
The EX-L is quite a premium model when you consider all you get for the money (the NAVI system is especially nice).
Since we're on the topic of selecting vehicles for people we care about, I'll venture out of the Accord and into the new CR-V - which I had the chance of assessing in person the other day - as a next vehicle for my wife.
Compared with the Accord, the CR-V's (an EX-L) positives are: even better driving visibility due to higher seating, a tire pressure monitoring system, space for hauling large objects, and available all-wheel drive.
Downsides are no power seats/auto climate control.
Where they're the same: high-quality, smartly designed interior and (based on USA Today car reviewer James Healey) driving dynamics. Price-wise, a similary equipped Accord and CR-V should be within acceptable variance.
)) "You can probably get an 07 for less than the 08 will be. And you would probably have to wait another year, for the 08 Accords to come out." ((
Plus the nearly inevitable 1st model-year "bugs" to work through common with any make. The last major Accord change was in model year '03, and early production suffered through V6 engines "dying" unpredictably while driving or idling at stops. (Edmunds' Accord discussions had some lively exchanges over that issue at the time.) Honda solved whatever the problem was after several months and there's no reason to believe that the '08s will have the same or worse teething problems, but it's a safe bet they will have something in store for early adopters.
i see your point. as i get older, i want and appreciate simpler. i do. it's not like i would mind leather seats, it's just that the vehicle dynamics is what i feel in the seats. heck, maybe with the leather i'd do a bit too much sliding.
the less complex, the likelyhood it's going to last longer.
i lived in the NE, and one thing i vowed i would never do again is own a vehicle with alloy wheels, specially in upstate NY or MA.
i've heard good things about the NAVI. geesh, as the commuting infrastructure gets more complex, maybe i'll need that too.
agree on value / price. the accord is the standard.
I have been experiencing a "sticking" gas pedal while driving in low-speed city traffic.
The gas pedal "sticks" when I step on it slightly at low speeds, causing the car to surge somewhat. This is a potential hazard and I am thinking of taking the car to the dealer to have the problem looked at; has anyone here had a similar problem with their Accord? If so, does it have something to do with the mechanics of the gas pedal (not enough lubrication) or a delay in the drive-by-wire throttle?
you may have a gunked up fuel system (throttle body or equivilant). I had the same problem on a Quest (it wa common), and a cleaning of the throttle plate fixed it right up.
Of course, these days, it could be in the electronics tht control the tranny or soemthing, but you should have it looked at, even though you can try a gumout treatment 1st to save $$
Hey, I've got a cloth EX, I don't like leather either. I've just found that people who tend to buy leather, don't want to go back and get cloth, and vice versa.
E.G. My girlfriend's mother was "uncomfortable" in her rental car, a Nissan Altima 2.5S... it had manual A/C, manual seats, cloth, and *gasp sarcastically* no heated seats.
Her regular car is a Lexus GX470. She was actually a little demeaning when I showed up in my brand new EX cloth Accord at her house..."it has a sunroof but no heated leather seats?"
My response was along the line of "nope, but I don't have a $500 lease payment like yours either!". instead, its a $240 finance payment... I will actually have something to show at the end of the finance period... a TITLE, and $30k compared to what she'll have!
There was indeed carbon buildup on the edge of the throttle plate. After wiping some of the carbon off with WD40, the pedal modulation is back to normal.
Well, for one the higher driving position helps visibility (and consequently, driver confidence) and ultimately accident avoidance. Conversely, she'll be more visible to other drivers because the SUV is simply a taller vehicle.
As to CR-V vs RAV4, the RAV4's V6 is head and shoulders above the CR-V in power but gives up only 1 mpg. Nonetheless, the CR-V is a better package in my view.
RAV4's V6 is head and shoulders above the CR-V in power but gives up only 1 mpg
Agree about it being MUCH faster, but disagree on the MPG statement. Yes, EPA says the difference is 1 MPG, but real-world reports seem to be showing otherwise...still decent, but more like 3-4 MPG different I believe.
Here are some of the most recent reports in the RAV4 thread... #57 of 62 V-6 mileage 4wd by Sep 17, 2006 (9:10 pm) Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg We are constantly getting about 20 MPG about 70% highway and 30% city. I was hoping for about 23 MPG. Best I got all highway was 27 back from Branson to Wichita, KS. Not too bad.
58 of 62 V6 4WD Sport by philholt Sep 18, 2006 (11:24 am) Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg I've just returned from a cross country (Connecticut to Washington, with lots of side trips) trip covering 13000 miles over the past 3.5 months. On the highway, with a passenger and luggage load of about 600 pounds and driving on the interstates 75-80 mph, got 25-26 mpg. The car in all respects was great.
Common numbers seem to be 20/26 for the V6 from what I'm reading on the RAV thread... Not bad at all for the power, but not up to EPA numbers.
Good direction for analysis, grad. However, any like-for-like comparisons would have to wait for owners' reports of the 07 CR-V's real-world mpg. Comparing EPA vs actual data of the two vehicles would lead to invalid conclusions for now.
)) "You just might be in for mother-in-law problems." ((
Think of honey-poo's mom as an opportunity rather than a problem - if thegraduate can tune the old bat out, maintain a pleasant demeanor in her presence, and the girlfriend/wife is an only child... (Hey, mother-in-laws don't live forever, and this one sounds like she has a few bucks. )
My 2005 EX-L just hit 10k miles and the maintainence indicator light is on. I've had the car serviced, not due back for 3k miles - I remember this happen on my 2001 Accord too, but can't find in the manual how to clear this light. Any ideas?
I remember this happen on my 2001 Accord too, but can't find in the manual how to clear this light.
You need to hold the button (the one inside the gauge cluster that is used to re-set the trip meter) down. Continue to hold the button down, turn the key on, wait for the light to go out. It's in the manual, somewhere.
PS: hold the button down with your left hand, so you can turn the key with your right hand.
The difference b/w inlaws and outlaws is that outlaws are wanted.
My wife's uncle, who at 76 yrs. old still had a lot of $$$$$, once noticed that I was driving a then 4 yr. old '91 Accord-EX 5 spd. Although the car was in perfect condition, he said to me: "still drivin' that old thing? When are you going to get a new car?"
I said: "Aaron, surely YOU are not suggesting that something that works perfectly well should be discarded just b/c it's OLD are you?"
The 05 EX belongs to my wife. She got it for Christmas, we went to pick it up and... ended up leaving for service on the first day because when the paper work was ready and we took it home we noticed the heating didn't work. It was Saturday night and we had to wait till Monday morning. We were told that something was not connected. It has worked since until today. Same problem. It's still under warranty 28K but has anyone experienced a similar problem? I have searched this forum and found nothing about the heating problem. Any response will be appreciated. Thank you. Sebastian of Chicago
however, it's possible your inlaws are wanted as well. depends on where you're from and/or the trouble you marry into. in otherwords, outlaws are inlaws of somebody.
Maybe there is a damaged connector on a wire, and it has worked it's way loose again. I would try to find out what connection it is, for the future. Maybe next time (if there is a next time) you can solve the problem yourself, if you're out of warranty by then. I always try to learn as much as I can about what, why, and how the problem happened. And most importantly how to fix it.
i recently changed the oil and filter in my honda accord 2006 myself ! changing filter was easy. i was able to reach the filter from the top. as mentioned in previous emails, it is below and beside the exhaust manifold. it is in a slightly ackward position and so you can burn your hand if you touch the hot exhaust manifold. so i first opened the oil drain plug to let the oil drain. then i waited for 20 minutes to let the exhanust manifold cool. then i removed the filter and waited for 20 more minutes to let the remaining oil drain completely
this is the first time i am changing oil myself and it felt good
this is the first time i am changing oil myself and it felt good
Just make sure you put the new filter on only "hand tight", or it will be hard to remove the next time.
When you remove the filter make sure the gasket comes off with it. Some people have ended up with double gaskets, then one bulges and all the oil leaks out. Be sure to run the engine for 5 minutes, and check for leaks afterwards.
This is just a couple of the mistakes others have made before. I've heard a lot of horror stories from other Honda forums.
I like to use ramps when changing the oil and filter. They allow me to reach the filter from the bottom, and I've found that I need to wipe off oil that drips when the filter is removed. I would think that it would be hard to reach the dripped oil from above.
The other thing I like with the ramps is while the oil is draining, I inspect the CV boots. It shouldn't be a problem on my 04 for a while, but has saved me axles more then once on my 88 Accord.
)) "Just make sure you put the new filter on only "hand tight", or it will be hard to remove the next time." ((
Excellent advice, elroy5. I've also read that more oil leaks are caused by distorting oil filter sealing gaskets through overzealous tightening than from insufficient tightening. It's also a good idea to run a thin film of motor oil along the surface of the new filter's sealing gasket where it will contact the gasket mating surface of the block or oil filter adapter. That also aids eventual removal. The instructions on oil filters advise using clean oil, but I've never had any problems with a drop of the just drained oil run around the new filter's gasket. Finally, since used engine oil is suspected of being a carcinogen, it might not be a bad idea to invest in a box of disposable blue mechanics oil-resistant gloves. They're available at any autoparts store or the automotive sections of most (all?) discount department stores. Finally, clay-based kitty litter is a super-duper absorbant for oil spills on hard surfaces. Just cover the spill completely with the stuff and leave it alone for several days. When vacuumed or swept up afterword, it's amazing how pristine the originally gooey surface is again.
another suggestion, this one from a newbie at it, i found using some aluminum foil around the manifold down-tube allowed me to get at the oil filter without burning an arm.
i like the idea of being able to look at various things like the condition of the boots and hangers and such. i wonder if there's any good products to apply which doesn't promote rubber breakdown?
I have leak around driver side. I went under the car to inspect the leakage, I noticed my CV Axle are wet. It was red oil. Could this be transmission fluid?
Local mechanic thinks it's from CV boot. He said, he will need to order the part from Honda to do this job which I think it's nothing to do with boot. I didn't notice any crack or cut while I was inspecting. Any idea with this red fluid? Thanks
I've replaced CV boots and have never run into red grease. I haven't done any on 03+ Hondas, but I seriously doubt that the grease would be red in the newer cars. It's always been a dark grey color in the past.
Sounds like tranny fluid to me.
If it was me, I would wipe everything down well, maybe even wash the area with degreaser. Drive the car a while and re inspect the area for seepage.
I just recently bought a 2007 honda accord sedan ex-l V6 and have these symptoms Long cranks to start the car. Hesitations to brake when letting the car run without pressing any pedal Obnoxious engine and Vibrations in the pedal with humming noises around 40-45 mph
Noticeable "rough" auto transmission shifting up and down problems i think have something to do with the transmittions. Seems like they have not fixed any of these problems, beucase i read all these problems before on this thread.
This is standard in this car. anytime the door is unlocked withouth an opening of a door. The car will automatically lock itself. This is to protect you from anyone passing by from opening your car. Say you push the unlock button instead of the lock, so instead of locking your car. you unlocked all the doors. Or if you fall asleep in your car and you wanted to lock it but unlocked it. Anyone could enter your car with you thinking it was locked.
Comments
Thanks
5w20 oil has less film and shear strength than a 5w30, 10w30 or a 0w30 motor oil. This can lead to increased engine wear under today's demanding heat and high-stress engine performance conditions.
So I don't really like the idea of using 5w20. I think I may chang to 5w30 synthetic in the future. How do your think?
Thanks
let's see: inflating tires to max sidewall, going to a slightly larger tire size (maybe/maybe not), removing the side view mirrors, removing the windshield wipers, removing the front license plate holder, removing mudflats, avoiding AC, going with synthetic oil, perhaps messing with the F/A ratio.
but why? doing any of those things would result in operability issues, or additional cost / complexity not worth it in the long run... well, if the state doesn't require it, i'd loose the front license plate holder.
After buying this vehicle (probably a 2007), I therefore plan on upgrading the tires.
Would anybody know which tire would be an excellent fit for a 2006-7 Accord EX V-6?
Much appreciated!
The Bridgestones (Turanza) were somewhat quieter but wore quickly, and the Falkens (512) - quite a value btw - were smooth & quiet driving straight but "notchy" (jagged sensation in steering wheel) when turning.
Had Continentals on a previous Accord, which I'll probably rank last among brands mentioned here.
I'm sure these tiremakers have premium/pricier models whose consumer feedbacks you can review at Tirerack.com.
The major criticism of the Accord seems to be the tires-an easy problem to fix!
Consumer reports states that road noise is apprarent in just about all of the '06-'07 Honda lineup.
I replaced my OEM Michelin MXV4's with Toyo Proxes TPT's and the road noise was even more apparent.
Let us know if your new tires reduce noise or soften the suspension blows.
i think sidewall stiffness, rubber compound, tread design, inflation pressure and some others will affect transmission of road imperfections to the body.
i have a set of michelin harmony's on my 02 accord, and they seem fine to me.
i did not purchase a honda to have disconnected / sound isolation. situational awareness of road conditions and feedback in steering / response have been very important to me as a driver.
Not arguing with you, nor questioning Amsoil's expertise, but several points to mull over:
1) Personally, I have no argument against your choice. (I run a 10W-30 synthetic blend in my '03 Sonata's V6 - it rarely even gets down to +40 F. where I live.) You're doing NO harm to your Honda engine running 5W-30 - especially if it's Amsoil - 'bout as good as it gets short of pricey, niche Euro-blends. (If you're running a conventional 5W-30 anderson123, consider switching to Motorcraft 5W-30. It's a synthetic blend at conventional pricing and available virtually everywhere in the U.S.) In the Japanese home market, Honda still recommends 10W-30 for maximum engine life. 5W-20 is only recommended in that market for maximum fuel economy - basically Honda's confirming Amsoil's points in its home market owner's manuals.
2) That said, used oil analyses posted over at BobIsTheOilGuy show consistently excellent results with the use of 5W-20 oils in engines recommended for them:
DaimlerChrysler
Honda (which has recommended 5W-20 since MY 1999)
Toyota
Hyundai
Ford
(GM and Euro automakers are still sitting on the fence on this issue, though the EPA is pressuring them to migrate to 5W-20 for U.S.-bound cars.)
3) For whatever reason, conventional 5W-30 and 10W-30 motor oils typically shear back to a high 20-weight in use within the first 2000-3000 miles and then slowly climb back as the oil loads with oxidative products in use. The 5W-20s seem to hold their initial operating temperature viscosity within range. Speculative posts on BITOG favor the idea that the 5W-20s are blended with some synthetic content whether labled containing such or not. Synthetic base oils hold their rated viscosity very well under heat.
I also tried shifting without warming up the engine. The jerk is still there but it is neither more or less than it is when the engine is warmed up.
Is this something to do with the transmission fluid not being warm enough? Does anyone else have this problem?
Thanks a lot !!
--GK
I see you drive a 5-series; we have one in the family, and I'm impressed with its contrary mix of control and cabin quietness. The sudden but still muted exhaust roar on acceleration is a treat. Maybe Honda's not far behind.
I want my wife to learn how to drive.
The 545 is "off limits" for driving instruction. They don't make a tranquilizer strong enough.
I'm thinking Accord EX V-6 automatic.
I'm a strong believer in value and for around $25k, I feel there is no better automotive value out there, considering the excellence of the vehicle. No complicated electronics.
No big blind spots. Easy power to boost confidence.
Good for someone to learn driving. I'm sure I will like it too.
The consensus seems to be stay with the original tires since the road noise would be there even with a tire upgrade.
However, someone on another board told me the Accord will have a major change next year as a 2008. It just may pay to wait?
Have one myself (the 03 model). It is a very good car, and I have had no problems with it. It's not a 545, for sure, but still a nice car. Like you said, the best you can get, IMO, for 25k. You can probably get an 07 for less than the 08 will be. And you would probably have to wait another year, for the 08 Accords to come out.
Agree with the Accord's "appeal points," since my wife drives an 03 sedan and she loves it. The 4 cyl variant is significantly lighter to handle vs the 6. Ergonomics and visibility are excellent, except for the front A-pillars which are a visibility issue for some people.
If Honda follows the Accord's model lifecycle of 5 years, which I believe they will because of intense competition, yes an all-new Accord should be out in Sep 07 as the new 8th gen. That should be worth waiting for imo.
A 4-cylinder Accord of some sort is probably better for her.
Maybe one with moderately low miles...
Just in case this driving thing doesn't quite work out for her and she decides that she doesn't like going to the mall on her own whenever she wants, shopping 'til she drops.
Like that's ever going to happen!
The EX-L is quite a premium model when you consider all you get for the money (the NAVI system is especially nice).
Compared with the Accord, the CR-V's (an EX-L) positives are: even better driving visibility due to higher seating, a tire pressure monitoring system, space for hauling large objects, and available all-wheel drive.
Downsides are no power seats/auto climate control.
Where they're the same: high-quality, smartly designed interior and (based on USA Today car reviewer James Healey) driving dynamics. Price-wise, a similary equipped Accord and CR-V should be within acceptable variance.
hpowders - interesting ?
Plus the nearly inevitable 1st model-year "bugs" to work through common with any make. The last major Accord change was in model year '03, and early production suffered through V6 engines "dying" unpredictably while driving or idling at stops. (Edmunds' Accord discussions had some lively exchanges over that issue at the time.) Honda solved whatever the problem was after several months and there's no reason to believe that the '08s will have the same or worse teething problems, but it's a safe bet they will have something in store for early adopters.
the less complex, the likelyhood it's going to last longer.
i lived in the NE, and one thing i vowed i would never do again is own a vehicle with alloy wheels, specially in upstate NY or MA.
i've heard good things about the NAVI. geesh, as the commuting infrastructure gets more complex, maybe i'll need that too.
agree on value / price. the accord is the standard.
The gas pedal "sticks" when I step on it slightly at low speeds, causing the car to surge somewhat. This is a potential hazard and I am thinking of taking the car to the dealer to have the problem looked at; has anyone here had a similar problem with their Accord? If so, does it have something to do with the mechanics of the gas pedal (not enough lubrication) or a delay in the drive-by-wire throttle?
Thanks!
Of course, these days, it could be in the electronics tht control the tranny or soemthing, but you should have it looked at, even though you can try a gumout treatment 1st to save $$
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
E.G. My girlfriend's mother was "uncomfortable" in her rental car, a Nissan Altima 2.5S... it had manual A/C, manual seats, cloth, and *gasp sarcastically* no heated seats.
Her regular car is a Lexus GX470. She was actually a little demeaning when I showed up in my brand new EX cloth Accord at her house..."it has a sunroof but no heated leather seats?"
My response was along the line of "nope, but I don't have a $500 lease payment like yours either!". instead, its a $240 finance payment... I will actually have something to show at the end of the finance period... a TITLE, and $30k compared to what she'll have!
As they say...look at (or listen) to your girlfriend's mother and that's what she'll be some day.
Thanx!
My girlfriend drives an 04 Corolla, so she's not exactly spoiled.
I understand what you're saying though...
...back to the Accord.
As to CR-V vs RAV4, the RAV4's V6 is head and shoulders above the CR-V in power but gives up only 1 mpg. Nonetheless, the CR-V is a better package in my view.
Agree about it being MUCH faster, but disagree on the MPG statement. Yes, EPA says the difference is 1 MPG, but real-world reports seem to be showing otherwise...still decent, but more like 3-4 MPG different I believe.
Here are some of the most recent reports in the RAV4 thread...
#57 of 62 V-6 mileage 4wd by Sep 17, 2006 (9:10 pm)
Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
We are constantly getting about 20 MPG about 70% highway and 30% city. I was hoping for about 23 MPG. Best I got all highway was 27 back from Branson to Wichita, KS. Not too bad.
58 of 62 V6 4WD Sport by philholt Sep 18, 2006 (11:24 am)
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I've just returned from a cross country (Connecticut to Washington, with lots of side trips) trip covering 13000 miles over the past 3.5 months. On the highway, with a passenger and luggage load of about 600 pounds and driving on the interstates 75-80 mph, got 25-26 mpg. The car in all respects was great.
Common numbers seem to be 20/26 for the V6 from what I'm reading on the RAV thread... Not bad at all for the power, but not up to EPA numbers.
If it is, as you say, an 03 with a 4cyl engine, it does not have drive-by-wire throttle. Only the EX V6 came with drive-by-wire in 03.
Think of honey-poo's mom as an opportunity rather than a problem - if thegraduate can tune the old bat out, maintain a pleasant demeanor in her presence, and the girlfriend/wife is an only child... (Hey, mother-in-laws don't live forever, and this one sounds like she has a few bucks.
Thanks in advance.
You need to hold the button (the one inside the gauge cluster that is used to re-set the trip meter) down. Continue to hold the button down, turn the key on, wait for the light to go out. It's in the manual, somewhere.
PS: hold the button down with your left hand, so you can turn the key with your right hand.
My wife's uncle, who at 76 yrs. old still had a lot of $$$$$, once noticed that I was driving a then 4 yr. old '91 Accord-EX 5 spd. Although the car was in perfect condition, he said to me: "still drivin' that old thing? When are you going to get a new car?"
I said: "Aaron, surely YOU are not suggesting that something that works perfectly well should be discarded just b/c it's OLD are you?"
He NEVER lectured me ever again!
_FS
however, it's possible your inlaws are wanted as well. depends on where you're from and/or the trouble you marry into. in otherwords, outlaws are inlaws of somebody.
:surprise:
this is the first time i am changing oil myself and it felt good
--gk
Just make sure you put the new filter on only "hand tight", or it will be hard to remove the next time.
When you remove the filter make sure the gasket comes off with it. Some people have ended up with double gaskets, then one bulges and all the oil leaks out. Be sure to run the engine for 5 minutes, and check for leaks afterwards.
This is just a couple of the mistakes others have made before. I've heard a lot of horror stories from other Honda forums.
The other thing I like with the ramps is while the oil is draining, I inspect the CV boots. It shouldn't be a problem on my 04 for a while, but has saved me axles more then once on my 88 Accord.
Mrbill
Excellent advice, elroy5. I've also read that more oil leaks are caused by distorting oil filter sealing gaskets through overzealous tightening than from insufficient tightening. It's also a good idea to run a thin film of motor oil along the surface of the new filter's sealing gasket where it will contact the gasket mating surface of the block or oil filter adapter. That also aids eventual removal. The instructions on oil filters advise using clean oil, but I've never had any problems with a drop of the just drained oil run around the new filter's gasket. Finally, since used engine oil is suspected of being a carcinogen, it might not be a bad idea to invest in a box of disposable blue mechanics oil-resistant gloves. They're available at any autoparts store or the automotive sections of most (all?) discount department stores. Finally, clay-based kitty litter is a super-duper absorbant for oil spills on hard surfaces. Just cover the spill completely with the stuff and leave it alone for several days. When vacuumed or swept up afterword, it's amazing how pristine the originally gooey surface is again.
i like the idea of being able to look at various things like the condition of the boots and hangers and such. i wonder if there's any good products to apply which doesn't promote rubber breakdown?
I have leak around driver side. I went under the car to inspect the leakage, I noticed my CV Axle are wet. It was red oil. Could this be transmission fluid?
Local mechanic thinks it's from CV boot. He said, he will need to order the part from Honda to do this job which I think it's nothing to do with boot. I didn't notice any crack or cut while I was inspecting.
Any idea with this red fluid? Thanks
Sounds like tranny fluid to me.
If it was me, I would wipe everything down well, maybe even wash the area with degreaser. Drive the car a while and re inspect the area for seepage.
Good luck
Mrbill
Long cranks to start the car.
Hesitations to brake when letting the car run without pressing any pedal
Obnoxious engine and Vibrations in the pedal with humming noises around 40-45 mph
Noticeable "rough" auto transmission shifting up and down
problems i think have something to do with the transmittions. Seems like they have not fixed any of these problems, beucase i read all these problems before on this thread.
PS i only have 600 miles on the odometer