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If it is sort of a crunching noise without turning the engine, then its probably the starter. If it is a sharp click followed by nothing or a series of clicks, then it could be battery or switch/selenoid.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Honda Ergonomics w.r.t. controls and illumination tend to be very good. This would come down to "gratuitous" for the very reasons you indicate (tactile information is present) but also the position is very easy to learn.
Now then, the position may collide with the position of the controls in another vehicle, but does that warrent illuminating the controls? I don't think so. Should they be illuminated because other manufactures do it? Again, I don't think so.
But to the OP's question: I think one would have to determine if the "clockspring" used on the steering column were the same P/N as that used on the more recent models with the illumination, because if there isn't electrical wires to supply voltage to the switches for illumination, then not only would the steering wheel and switch assembly have to change, but also the clockspring, and probably the wiring harness to it.
Rather than entertaining a mod to illiuminate the extant switches and the cost and effort to do so, one might be better off NOT to encourage the use of CC if the positions cannot be easily learned or determined by tactile feel. Why?
Well, I'd make the argument that if you have to go heads down at night (or daytime for that matter) to determine where the switches are, then chances are the driver is in traffic, and in those situations, CC isn't advised, nor going heads down for that matter.
Or put another way, illuminating the switches on the Steering Wheel may support locating the switch to do function X at night, but it also degrades the driving task by supporting heads-down time.
In other words... ahem, IMHO, Honda goofed by putting illumination on those buttons. They had it right to begin with and probably had some marketing expert force engineering to compromise their otherwise excellent philosophy and execution. :surprise:
But then we also own an '06 4-banger Sonata and let me assure you, any child putting his hand on the steering wheel could easily conclude that the I-4 Sonata is a lot smoother idling than our V6 Accord... This seems illogical to me.
I carefully looked at the Tachometer needle, and it's resting at 650 rpm when idling. Is this the normal rpm of a warm V6 engine?
You are technically right - you shouldn't be looking at the controls to begin with - but it is annoying when you switch cars and you do need to take a quick look to remember which button is what. Also, it doesn't help when your better half complains about it - it just gets annoying and tiresome to hear the complaints. I bought that car way back in 2003, brand new and never complained. I do admit I was peeved that all the other manufacturers had it - and I guess I fell into that trap "they have it, why don't I?" This was my frist Honda vehicle and I'm a proud Honda owner. The 2003 maybe doesn't live up to the reputation of the previous generation Accord, but again I believe the previous generations set the bar so high its hard to always live up to it. Compared to other cars the car is very reliable and I've been very satisfied.
And I'm closing this topic as I really have nothing to complain about. and my better half is just going to have to accept it.
thanks!
If the dealership tells you the vibration is normal, it's not. My 03 EX V6 has 50,100 miles and it has never vibrated at idle (either in park or drive at a red light). From what I've heard, there is an engine mount adjustment TSB for vibrations. Good luck with the dealership service department.
i've been in other vehicles where there was so much illumination as to make it hard to drive the vehicle at night because it was so darn distracting. i really do feel Honda gets it more right than wrong and does a better ergonomics job than most other manufacturers.
now i got your better half anectdote and see you going all-in: my wife has been caught using CC and sitting "indian style". OMG :surprise:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=720&d=1095123654
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8600
the noise when happens.... (not all the time) is like a clicking.... I do this 3-4 times let it rest - then turn the key and it starts ok.... I had the batery checked -and it is good...3 years old We live in Chicago area....so cold winters.... ????? rl
Of course, there is ALWAYS some vibrations at idle speed, so this is kind of subjective, of course. But to me it seems excessive, especially for a V6, which is suppose to be smooth, smoother than an I-4, and especially when compared to our Sonata, which is an I-4.... The SM at the dealer said they will compare it to another V6 Accord, but I don't believe they actually did that.....
That's one of the reasons I try to stay away from getting service at dealerships, you don't really know what they've checked and done to your car...
But again, is an idle speed of 650 rpm normal for a warm engine (when in D or even Neutral)? I suspect that the cause of the vibrations is the low rpm. Shouldn't it be 750-800?
And no, I'm not talking about a cold start, of course, I'm talking about a warm/hot engine, driven for a good while, rpm checked at a stop light. 650 is where the needle rests. And the vibrations can be well noticed when my hands lay on the steering wheel (I can also hear the engine).
Com'on, V6 guys, look at your tachometer next time you're at a stop light....
...Thanks.
Sorry, I didn't know. What I can tell you is that my 4-cyl 2006 Accord doesn't produce noticeable vibration at any point when idling. It sounds like, to me, you have a problem if the V6 (which is supposed to be smoother) is vibrating.
My sister's had been fixed...not completely. It's just that loud as before.
I haven't taken mine to dealer... because it only happens sometimes and I cannot make sure if they will hear it at the time I go there. (The dealership is kinda far from my house)
I just install an “Outside-Temperature Gauge” and its dosing work atoll, so I hope someone knows something to help me!
Tank’s!
:confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
I'm going to visit a friend of mine who own the same exact car, but a year older (2004), and do an apple-to-apple comparison, before I challenge the dealer again. All I know is that this car vibrates more, significantly more than my 4-banger Sonata, both have the same miles on the odometer (about 15k). To me that doesn't make sense, but if both mine and my friend's vibrate the same, and that's the way Honda designed the Accord, so be it, I'd be willing to accept it as is.
My 06 SE buttons dimly glow
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/03accord/tempgauge.pdf
I think the engine mounts are adjustable. Geesh for that matter, and I don't know much about them, at least one may have a vacuum hose going to it to modulate it's "stiffness", so maybe the hose slipped off. Not positive, but saw one of these on either my '02 accord or '03 ody when i was under them yesterday changing the oil and filter. I can't remember which, I was busy avoiding the exhaust manifolds going into the CAT and my little ones were running around distracting me. Everytime I'm under either car though, I notice something else about the vehicles design and appreciate their engineering more.
Anyhow, I had a '94 accord where a mount went. There is such a thing as a marginal part.
So, like I said, the reply you got is reason (at least it would be to me) to seek service elsewhere.
FWIW: my '02 accord I4 idles about the same as previously noted 600+ rpm with the AC off, and the vibration is noticeable but not significant. I think some is expected from an I4. My '03 ody with the V6 though idles very smoothly, more than once (when the surrounding noise level is high) I thought the engine wasn't running.
Good luck.
I find it hard to believe the service manager never heard of this. There is at least one TSB concerning this.
Tank’s for responding me
I
thanks!
Here is one place that seems to have a nice selection (haven't bought, so I can't vouch).
http://gtcovers.com/
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Current drain at the batter when the car is OFF, all doors shut, no lights on, etc is 150mA. Is this normal? A different dealer told me 35mA is normal.
If I disconnect the battery when I don't plan to drive it never had a problem, even after many days.
With these two issues in mind I'm thinking there is a problem with the electrical system OR aftermarket alarm (KARR alarm) system.
The dopey dealer claims they don't know how to disconnect the KARR alarm on any day of the week except Tuesdays. Guess what, I work full time and the dealer is 100 miles away.
Can anyone help? Anyone had this problem with a new Accord? I bought Honda for reliability and so far my 1996 Ford Aerostar is much better!
Unfortunately the way to isolate the drain, is to put an ampmeter on like you apparently have already done, and start yanking the fuses to determine which ones have an impact. Somebody has to narrow it down to the bad circuit, and your working situation with the closest dealership 2 hrs away is obviously a problem. If you could get it down to the problem circuit, it would make your time at the dealership most productive....as they'd be in 'fix' mode, as opposed to 'diagnose' mode.
Is this an alarm the dealership added, or somebody else?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
one thing i'd do is bring the vehicle to an autozone or napa or other and have them do an alternator and battery test.
its possible your alternator is bad, but the current draw of 150mA seems high. I would expect with everything powered down, it would be closer to the 35mA mark myself.
say your bat was a 50Ahr bat. Dividing 50Ahr by 0.150A yields what 333hr or about 14days?
unless you do as kiawah suggested though, you don't know what is contributing to the current draw. it could be a stuck window regulator, a stuck power seat, even a stuck relay.
i suspect the alarm, i do, but you can do your own sleuthing by hooking up the ammeter, and pulling fuse by fuse till you find the ckt with the biggest current change when disconnected / reconnected.
hope it helps.
What could it mean?
What model is your Accord, what engine?
Brakes checked out at 10mm pad thickness front, 9mm rear (same on both sides). What the heck is the thickness of new pads anyway, and when do you hit the wear bars?
tires were 7/32nd front, 8/32 rear (but they are getting rotated this week, so that seems about the right differential).
They also tested the battery. 12.77 V, and a whopping 416cca (out of a rated 440).
That might explain why the car is so lathargic (barely cranking over) when the temp gets into the 30s. I has been like that since new.
Honda just puts real marginal batteries in the Accord. When it dies, I will replace it with a big honking one that can start a Peterbilt in Alaska.
So overall, the car seems to be doing fine.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
On the left, click on Owner's Manuals
Click on 2005 Owner's Manuals
Click on Honda 2005 Accord Sedan Owner's Manual
In the Maintenance section, click on the (blue) page 197 at the right
Click on the Maintenance Schedule (blue) page 199 in the center column
You'll find what you need on pages 199 through 205