I bet you are right. I don't use the key at all. BUT!! I turned the key while pressing the open button and lifting up on the door handle and it opened. It didn't unlock but it opened. So I'm off to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
If you are talking about the display screen, the warranty has been extended to 7 years 100k miles, so you may be in luck. Check with your local dealership. I just had my display screen replaced (at no cost) a month ago (50k miles). Didn't you recieve a notice about the warranty extention?
When I owned a '96 Accord 4 cyl auto I changed the tranny fluid myself at 30k, 60k and 90k. Each time I used Mobil 1 transmission fluid and the car drove just as it always did, no complaints. Why the fixation on using only Honda Tranny fluid? Honda doesn't own any oil refinerys! Personally, I think it is a snow job; and that is sad. Sure, using a name brand should mean there is quality inside. But Honda doesn't have the lock on quality fluids. The Big thing is to change the stuff. If my transmission ever goes bad and 'they' say it's because of the Mobil 1 fluid, then we'll have a whole lot of fun! This is just like the gasoline name brand issue. Tell you what, follow those fuel trucks to their fill suppliers and you'll see all of the name brands and non-name brands sucking the gas from the same pipes. Think about it! Setting this aside, I have learned a lot reading posts on this site. Thanks to all!
Honda developed the fluid for their transmissions. Other fluids will work, but the shifts could be harsh. Yes the trucks pump the same fuel into the station tanks, but the secret is the "detergent additives" that the top tier stations have added to the fuel that makes the difference. Whether you choose to believe this or not, is up to you.
The instructions should be in your owner's manual, but you have to pry the lens out (with a small flat tip screwdriver or butter knife) from the side farthest from the windshield. Pretty easy, but be careful, so you don't scratch things up.
I read in the manual that you should put a thin cloth across the area to be opened so it won't nick anything. Good luck. You'll more or less be holding the cloth there with the screwdriver or the knife whichever you choose. Oh and be careful not to crack the lens. But you knew that.
I usually use a butter knife for this type of thing. With it's round edge, and not being very sharp on the back edge, I find it's easier not to scratch something than with a relatively sharp edged screwdriver. Using a cloth could also be good to prevent scratching something.
I have not figured it out yet, but occasionally the windows (all 4) of my 07 Accord will roll down. The car is parked and is off, and the keys are with me. All 4 windows are down the same amount - Sometimes an inch.. sometimes halfway down....I have no idea what is going on....
Is there a chance that something (in your pocket) is pushing the un-lock button? If the button is pushed twice and held, the windows will go down. You should not have other keys on the same ring with the transmitter key. They can easily push the buttons on the transmitter while it's in your pocket.
I haven't noticed that, but it is very useful information to have...The situation is.. i leave my car parked in a parking lot 30 miles away while I'm at work... when I come back in the afternoon, the windows are down....
Well, I don't think the transmitter goes that far (30 miles). I guess it could be happening while you are getting in or out of the other vehicle. It could be serious if you get a day of heavy rain, with the windows down. :sick:
Thats a good question... now i know what to test for tomorrow morning... thank you all for your suggestions... and Thankfully....the windows haven't been down on a rainy day
I just got my car out of the body shop where they fixed my bumper. It wasn't nearly as expensive as I thought it would be, $723 before insurance, but I had to pay the $500 deductible. The paint matches almost right on. I'm happy.
Thanks to everyone who tried to help me save money though.
Hi,I have 03 accord:4dr, EX,V6. My batery die, so after recharge I coudent start the car. The altenater works greate but it's not starting. One guy told me it's a security senser is that posebile?
Is the immobilizer system light on or blinking? If you only tried to charge the battery, and it was dead, charging will not work. If the battery hasn't been changed before, it has probably been used up (4-5 years is all these batteries are designed to last). Does the engine turn over fast enough that you think it would start? I hope you didn't try charging the battery without disconnecting it from the car. :surprise:
I put battery from other car still won't work. Really I don't know what is immobilizer system light? Also I don't have alarm remote for this car.(alarm is original) Thank you!!!!
Do the lights, and other electricals work normally? When you try to start the car, does the engine crank normally? Or does it crank slow, not at all? The Immobilizer system light is in the gauge cluster, with all the other warning lights (speedometer area). If the light is not on, I don't think the security system is your problem.
Yes evrythin looks okay on the gauge cluster and engine crank well exsept the sparks,I took one off and tray too start the engine,the spark dosent give any light.I chack all other sparks same thin no light.
Since these cars have no distributor, this is not an area I am familiar with. All I can suggest is tracing the no spark issue back from the spark plugs to where ever they come from. I will do a little checking in the service manual, and see what I can dig up.
Check the 15A fuse #2 (second from left, bottom) in the under dash fuse/relay box. If that is ok, it's on to the ignition coil relay circuit troubleshooting.
This winter I had trouble unlocking my door with the key FOB but was able to open it by turning the key clockwise while pushing the open button on the FOB and lifting up on the door latch. The problem is unique with the 03 accord. Honda decided to use a cable instead of a rod from the handle to the latch. Moisture works its way in and settles at the bend in the cable and freezes. The solution is to remove the door panel and apply heat to the cable with a heat gun to evaporate the moisture.
First, I'm glad you were able to get it open and fixed. I hope it didn't cost too much, considering dealer labor rates are usually death to John Q. Public. Second, thanks for the tip. I'll have to remember that if it ever happens to me.
Just curious, how does one remove the door panel? Eventually I am probably going to have to replace mine, I have a baseball sized hole in mine down by the courtesy light from having the door slam on the end of my snow brush that wasn't completely in the car. :mad: but anyway I haven't been able to find any indication of where to remove screws or clips or anything. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough.
I purchased an 2005 Accord EX from an out of state dealer, and now find that the door locks don't respond to one of the remotes. Of course, I didn't find this until I got the car home (150 miles!). It was a replacement key that they cut for me, but apparently forgot to program to the car. I've checked, and the battery in the remote is fine.
Would anyone be able to share the sequence I need to follow to program the remote to the car?
would like to know if it is possible to download that online manual? because it is not easy to read online everytime, I want to download and print, is it possible? or do you have the PDF copy? if yes please send it to me
well that is a heck of a resource blane pointed you to.
you can order a paper copy there, or you could find one on eBay...
it looks like this system downloads a portion of the overall .pdf file, a section at a time. you could use the diskette icon within the .pdf viewer window to save sections at a time to your computer.
-or-
you could register your vehicle on Honda's OwnerLink, and probably get the whole thing in one shot, plus, get recall notifications and other items.
thanks i will try to resigter my vehicle on honda ownerlink, there on this website whilte trying to add a vahicle it asks for VIN/HIN no. whats that ? is it the chasis no?
The VIN is the "Vehicle Identification Number". I think you should find it embossed on a metal tag attached to the dash which is visible when you are outside the vehicle on the drivers side looking throught the windshield at the place where the dash and windshield meet in the corner closest to you.
or it should be on a tag on the driver door jam, or on a sticker affixed to each door, the trunk, the hood (lets you know if a panel has been replaced following an accident).
the VIN should be on your insurance card.
the VIN should be on tax documentation, and license plate application.
the VIN should be on your bill of sale, your title, your loan documentation.
If I recall correctly you can register for general updates by entering the basic information about the car, color, year, coupe or sedan, trim level etc. That's what I did for my first honda.
Good point. If it was purchased in Saudi Arabia or another country outside the US, then documentation might be lacking the VIN, but I'd be really surprised if the vehicle didn't have the VIN visible in the physical locations on the car that I mentioned.
Poster indicated "Chassis Number". I suspect (but am not sure) this is the same thing as the VIN, as no matter where it was made, it will have a VIN (at least I thought so).
Thanks for the clarification though. Hope the poster locates the information.
I have 04 Accord V6. Filled up tank yesterday and drove 20 miles. Ran brief errands early this a.m. Returned home to unload ... car was running but engine shut off a few minutes later. Would crank but not turn engine over. Temperature around 20 degrees. Garage kept but unheated. After a hr car started but engine stopped three minutes thereafter. Car started an hour later and continued to run for 10 mins until I shut off -- temperature by now was 40. Seems like a fuel pump issue but might there be moisture in the fuel line? Car out of warranty. Afraid to drive it for fear engine will stop in route to have serviced. Any thoughts or comments are appreciated.
Your problem could easily be water in your fuel tank if you haven't used gas line antifreeze ("dry gas", etc) this winter. It's best to put a bottle into the tank before a fillup. Depending upon your location you might want to do it a couple of times a month.
My tail lights and parking are not working. I checked the bulbs, all are OK. Turn signals are OK, backing lights are OK. Except parking and tail lights.
Looked for fuse location on in my owner manual, I can not understand most of the terms. All small fuses in the underhood are OK. Can anyone please help me and point me to the right fuse?
Headlights and dashlights are also OK Thanks in Advance
I bought my wife an new 07 VP and all I hear about is the lack of the auto headlights, before I buy another car (hopefully kidding) is there an aftermarket way to put on this feature. thanks
I don't drive this car, my wife drives it (and she has no complaints), so this morning I had a chance to check it again, and after she drove back home, when opening the hood the engine (again, it's a V6) seems very smooth, I also layed my hand on the cover, and felt no vibrations.
The service manager at our dealership claims all is normal, but I'm asking: That fact the engine itself feels smooth, and the fact I can still feel significant vibrations coming from the steering wheel when the car is idling (600 rpm) in gear -- does that indicate anything?
Comments
Anyone have this problem?
This happened once or twice on our Odyssey in the past, and I never quite figured out for sure why. BUt they were only down an inch or so.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I just got my car out of the body shop where they fixed my bumper. It wasn't nearly as expensive as I thought it would be, $723 before insurance, but I had to pay the $500 deductible. The paint matches almost right on. I'm happy.
Thanks to everyone who tried to help me save money though.
The problem is unique with the 03 accord. Honda decided to use a cable instead of a rod from the handle to the latch. Moisture works its way in and settles at the bend in the cable and freezes. The solution is to remove the door panel and apply heat to the cable with a heat gun to evaporate the moisture.
Just curious, how does one remove the door panel? Eventually I am probably going to have to replace mine, I have a baseball sized hole in mine down by the courtesy light from having the door slam on the end of my snow brush that wasn't completely in the car. :mad: but anyway I haven't been able to find any indication of where to remove screws or clips or anything. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough.
I just bought Honda Accord 2003 sedan 2.4, Bage Color, Automatic transmission. I am living in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Unfortunately the first owner of the car lost the english owner booklet, Repair Guide. The Milage of car is 69,200km
I would like to ask if some one can help me out to download the repair guide, Owner manual for this mentioned model, It would be great help for me.
Thanks for your co-operation.
Wajeeh
I purchased an 2005 Accord EX from an out of state dealer, and now find that the door locks don't respond to one of the remotes. Of course, I didn't find this until I got the car home (150 miles!). It was a replacement key that they cut for me, but apparently forgot to program to the car. I've checked, and the battery in the remote is fine.
Would anyone be able to share the sequence I need to follow to program the remote to the car?
Thanks for the help!
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
You can order paper copies of various Honda manuals here:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=2HDX04HSEQ85VCP&class- %5F2=AHM
would like to know if it is possible to download that online manual? because it is not easy to read online everytime, I want to download and print, is it possible? or do you have the PDF copy? if yes please send it to me
regards,
you can order a paper copy there, or you could find one on eBay...
it looks like this system downloads a portion of the overall .pdf file, a section at a time. you could use the diskette icon within the .pdf viewer window to save sections at a time to your computer.
-or-
you could register your vehicle on Honda's OwnerLink, and probably get the whole thing in one shot, plus, get recall notifications and other items.
thanks and regards
or it should be on a tag on the driver door jam, or on a sticker affixed to each door, the trunk, the hood (lets you know if a panel has been replaced following an accident).
the VIN should be on your insurance card.
the VIN should be on tax documentation, and license plate application.
the VIN should be on your bill of sale, your title, your loan documentation.
Poster indicated "Chassis Number". I suspect (but am not sure) this is the same thing as the VIN, as no matter where it was made, it will have a VIN (at least I thought so).
Thanks for the clarification though. Hope the poster locates the information.
Looked for fuse location on in my owner manual, I can not understand most of the terms. All small fuses in the underhood are OK. Can anyone please help me and point me to the right fuse?
Headlights and dashlights are also OK
Thanks in Advance
The service manager at our dealership claims all is normal, but I'm asking: That fact the engine itself feels smooth, and the fact I can still feel significant vibrations coming from the steering wheel when the car is idling (600 rpm) in gear -- does that indicate anything?