Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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You can obviously do all this work yourself and it will be cheaper. However, I have clay barred an Acura Vigor, which is about the same size as you car, and it will take a full day of constant elbow grease. it is not a fun job, it is straight hard work. Any clay bar product will do fine I am sure. And it is very simple to do, again just a lot of work. Clay bar can be found at almost every auto parts store (Kragen, Checker, Napa, Autozone, etc...)
If you don't want to do it yourself, find a detailer, not a car wash/detailer combo shop. Find the ones that are in commercial areas like where you would find mechanics. Or find the ones that luxury used car dealers use for their reconditioning. It will cost you a few hundred but if they have to please luxury car dealers than I am sure you will be pleased. Just make sure to mention you want the car clay barred as part of the exterior detail.
Clay barring removes dirt, debris, oil and contaminants that are lodged/fused into the paint.
If you are really anal you could also ask for a wet sand after the clay bar. But we a re talking about a 10 years accord, not a luxury/collector/sports car. That may be over kill.
Again you can easily do all these things if you do not want to pay. It would be a great learning experience as well. You should google the above topics and I am certain you will find a number of sire with how to's on all of this and that will give a more thorough explanation of what does what for your paint.
Good Luck!!!
PS ~ Last wash a year ago. Better keep guiding your daughter until she finds a spouse who can take car of the "manly" things.
There are lots of good sites on the web that will give you some idea of what needs to be done. You can spend a lot of money and/or time... or you can do some basics yourself.
Washing with a good car wash is an important first step. Using a clay bar is crucial but I disagree with Forlorn about it taking all day and needing a lot of elbow grease. Good clay and a good lubricant makes it pretty easy to do. I've never had to rub hard to remove anything... but it is amazing what you'll pick up.
You can use various levels of polish to remove scratches (if they aren't too deep) either by hand or with a machine. You aren't going to want to spend time wet sanding on a car like that.
To finish, you can either put on a wax or paint sealant. The wax will last 3 months and the sealant longer (but you won't get as deep a shine... probably not something that will concern you with this car.) My CarSpace has some pics of my car with a paint sealant after almost a year to give you an idea. Not all sealants are created equally, however, so get a good one.
You can check this forum on Edmunds: Paint & Body Maintenance & Repair for more info. As I said earlier, there are many other websites that will give you all the details. Autopia is pretty popular and has lots of tips. My personal favorite is Detailer's Handbook from Griot's Garage. You can read it online at that link for free or you can buy it. It has great info but you don't have to use their products (personally, I love them.)
Good luck!
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/2003-honda-accord-wiring-problem-8584-1- - - 8.html
I used the directions at this site, http://www.cdplayerrepair.com/Remtips/accord_rem.htm , and this site, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/561772/3 , to help in removing the stereo. The top panel is difficult to remove, but after you get that off, it goes pretty easily.
Thanks again for the advice. I went to the Honda Dealer on Friday and took a printout of handa-accessories.com's prices. And the guy was a bit confused at first if he was able to, but then went ahead and matched the online prices (I fibbed a bit and said someone had did it for me before - the truth was that someone did it for elroy5 before ;-) ).
So I got to shave a few bucks off of all the items I needed AND didn't have to pay shipping so it worked out well.
In the post I am replying to, I listed all the items I had wanted to get:
a) Air Filter / Genuine Factory Honda Accord engine air filter - $20.49
- bought two of these
b) Micron Air brand Pollen Filter - Also called A/C or Cabin filters.
Fits Years 2003-2005, for other years - $15.95
- bought two of these too
c) Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF-Z1 - $6.11
- bought 5 of these
d) Genuine Factory Honda long life antifreeze/coolant type2 - 1 Gallon Container 50/50 prediluted. - $11.73
- bought 2 of these
Final price - $136.20
Now, I have been shopping around a bit with the different dealers in the DC/Baltimore area to find out the costs of the 120k and under services I have to get done:
1) Inspect Valve Clearance (110k miles)
2) Transmission Fluid (120k miles)
3) Coolant (120k miles)
4) Spark Plugs (110k miles)
Many of the dealers were pretty high in price for the services, so by me getting the parts, I should have been able to save significant money. However, Sport Honda in Silver Spring was one of the last dealers I e-mailed, and when they responded, it seemed to be most reasonably priced for these 4 services and looking at their breakdown, it seems that by buying my own parts, I prob won't be saving a significant amount. Check out their e-mail to me below:
Transmission Fluid Replacement - fluid $36.00 washer $4.00 - Labor
$52.00 - our present special $79.95 (a savings of about $12.00)
the fluid replacement consists of about 3 quarts... the procedure that
you are quoting - 'three successive flushes w/ roadtest' is only done if
there is a specific problem with the transmission fluid being burnt -
Honda does not recommend a flush of the system unless there is an actual
problem - If in fact this procedure was needed the price would be
$249.95 - I would be suprised indeed if it turned out to be necessary.
Spark plugs - Honda platinum $100.00 regular installation $104.00 /$
204.00 - there is a si
Valve Adjustment - Honda Valve cover gasket $14.00 + labor charge of
$156. - when done together - special price is $349.95 - As it is
necessary to remove the valve cover to inspect the adjustment there is
no seperate charge for the inspection
Honda engine coolant for your vehicle $22.00 + labor $72.80 - Special $
86.95"
When I get a chance, I'll post some of the other breakdowns I received from other dealers. I hope all this info helps other Accord owners when they hit services around this mileage.
I just posted a bit ago (scroll up a few posts() about where I'm planning on going to get some big 120k and under service items done on my 2004 Accord EX-L Sedan w/ Auto. I'll ask them about the power steering TSB also.
I would like to hear from Others
Use IZFR6K11 (NGK) or SKJ20DR-M11 (DENSO).
Use IZFR6K13 (NGK) or SKJ20DR-M13 (DENSO) for SULEV model (4-door model only).
I have the 4 door sedan 2004 honda accord EX-L w/ Navi (Auto) so I believe I will be needing the:
Use IZFR6K13 (NGK) or SKJ20DR-M13 (DENSO) for SULEV model (4-door model only).
I don't think I saw spark plugs on handa-accessories.com so even though I was able to take a printout to the honda dealer and have them match prices, I couldn't do it in this case. So if I was to go to the dealer to buy them, I'd have to pay whatever price they have. or I could go to Autozone and get these from there for probably cheaper right?
Just did a quick check. NGK for your year are $10 a pop.
I was expecting to find the IZFR6K13 (NGK) for SULEV model (4-door model only). Did I get the right plugs?
The Denso 3377 Iridium Long-Life also came up, but were $20.99 each and had a check shelf next to it so I just told them to forget about it.
there's a 3 year replacement on the NGK - how would that work for me? Would they go bad? if so, how would I know?
On the Denso, there's a 90 day replacement if defective. Both of these warranties are as per Advance Auto Part's printout.
Also, I have found the '07 seems more prone to door dings then other vehicles (including the '93). The PDR guy is putting his kids through college on my $75/ding repairs lol.
If the side-impact light went off, if you were riding with somebody, it may have meant that your passenger fell asleep and was leaning too far over. Otherwise I don't know.
My backpack can do it sometimes. Nothing to worry about.
Thegrad was right... if no one was in the passenger seat and there was something on the seat that set off the light. However, it looks like you said the side air bag light came on. Was anyone with you? As someone said, that happens if they had an arm or were otherwise leaning against the door. It shuts off the airbag for safety reasons. Had it happen to me once when my daughter leaned against the door.
I'm at over 120k on my 2004 Honda Accord EX-L w/ Navi (Auto, Sedan, 4-cyclinder) and wanted to fix the error I made by having my Transmission service done at 90k at Firestone. However, the Honda dealers I'm calling are just saying they do a simple drain and fill. A few dealers have said they do the 3 successive fluid exchanges but that I probably don't need it in my car.
Any thoughts?
Upon bringing it back a third time, this time of course with the recording. It got fixed, the funny part was that the dealer didn't evev take the car for a ride after I played the tape, they just pulled it into the garage and proceeded with replacing the struts under warranty.
Thanks for the help.
If you send a picture I am sure it will be easier for people to answer your question.
http://i.pbase.com/o6/34/704134/1/72151109.e2uvBHj3.PC212101.jpg
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Air Filter
Genuine Factory Honda Accord engine air filter.
Fits Years 2006 - 2007
Micron Air brand Pollen Filter
Also called A/C or Cabin filter.
Fits Years 2006 - 2008
Cabin Filter: 80292-SDA-A01
Air Filter: 17220-RAA-A00
The 07 has the maintenance minder system, so you can follow that. Mine seems to come up before 30k interval but it hasn't been that dirty so I've stayed with 30k.
The maintenance minder system in the '07 - I know it reminds me when an oil change needs to be done (when the oil life gets low), but how do you know when to do air filters, etc.
I like life w/ the '04 Accord when I just follow the manual
There are codes that come up when the wrench icon displays (letters and numbers). Your owner's manual lists to which service the numbers and letters refer.
Mrbill
The battery died on me last night(a very cold night in Northeast; about 10F with wind chill) after I listened to the radio for 30 minutes without having the engine running. Got a jump start. Now, the battery has a “dark eye” (not fully charged).
The tow truck driver told me it’s not uncommon to have a dead battery if I stop the engine and have the radio on in such a cold night. I would think the OEM battery will last more than 3 years. What’s your experience?
Thank you.
Richard
I had to replace the battery in my Honda Accord 2004 EX-L, 2.4liter, in June, 2008, purchased car in July, 2004. Original battery lasted 47 months. Car wouldn't start one morning after attempting to crank it twice. I checked the battery voltage and it was about 10.5VDC. It should have been ~12.5VDC. I knew the voltage was not good. Called AAA and got a jump start. The car started on first attempt with the AAA jump start. I drove directly to Advance Auto Parts and they tested it and said the battery had a bad cell. I replaced it with a Titanium battery from Advance Auto Parts. They installed it for free (I'm sure I paid in some way for the install service though by buying the battery there) and it only took 5 minutes to replace. Car has started fine since.
I live in Florida and hot weather is not the best for car batteries and probably has shortened my car's battery life. I had a former cars battery die in Florida after 25 months, a bit short lived in my opinion. One month after the full replacement warranty expired... My experience has been that around 3-4 years is about what I've gotten out of batteries with different car makes/models over 25 years of owning cars.
Mrbill
I put one from Walmart in my Odyssey a couple months back (it was testing out below spec). Top rated by CR, and only $$75 installed, and they did a nice job. Also has about 2x the rated power.
On my 2005 Accord, the battery is still in the OK range (from the oil change last omnth) but sounds very weak. Then again, it always has, which I think reflects how low powered it is. Still starts, but makes you wonder on a cold day.
I also know mine was dead on the lot, since they had to jump it the first time I test drove the car!
I probably should have replaced it proactively, but I was too cheap.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Do I get a battery from Honda Dealer or buy it from Walmart or Costco or Auto Zone?
Can you recommend a few decent brands for batteries? How about specs? Do you suggest I go for a higher capacity?
Thanks again.
Does this mean I have to get my battery replaced at the dealership? They charge $113 for the battery while a Duralast-Gold in Auto Zone costs $90.