Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx?CategoryID=79
Mrbill
I just had the rears done on my .05 at 43K (inner pad wore out, defective design). But the rotors had plenty of meat, so they got cut.
Also, IMO, Honda usues lousy brake pads. If you get a shop to do it, they wil lliekly (or can, for a small extra cost) use much higher quality pads.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I use synthetic oil and after 8-9,000 miles when I change the oil it is still a dark honey color. If the oil was full of particles it would be much darker.
I do daily total 20 miles on my car.( 2 trips between work and home) My maintenance Oil indicator shows 50% , Miles traveled 2800 miles and almost 4 months since the last oil change..
I would like to know when should I change the oil.. Should I go by Maintenance indicator/ No of months/ No of Miles..
Please advise
Thanks
Kush
Happy Hondaing,
TheGrad
'06 Accord EX 2.4L 5AT
Not really. Its driven more by marketing than by anything else. An example of this is BMW...in the 80s, they were notorious for high maintenance costs leading BMW to introduce they free maintenance for 3 years thing...then they decided THEY were paying too much and started eliminating services like oil changes, transmission flushes, and coolant changes. Now if you look at CR, their cooling systems are sub-par.
There are a few arguments - the 3000 mile oil change was mandated more by the revenue streams for Jiffy Lube etc than anything else, automotive lubricants have come a long way in 20 years, motors are manufactured with tighter tolerances and the materials used for seals, engines heat up faster - that point to longer change intervals. However, driving demands have increased, speeds are higher, traffic is worse (more idling) and engines run hotter - all imply that the oil should be changed sooner.
I have been changing my oil when the light tells me to, but I have a highway drive at moderate speeds with light traffic. I also don't expect to keep the car forever, although the resale value hit recently may change that.
I used to change every 3,000 miles with synthetic on my Integra. What a waste that was. No point in having a perfect engine (It looks clean as new on the camshaft after 230,000 miles) if the car is starting to rust, the seats are worn through etc.
There are plenty of people that use extended intervals and change every 20,000 miles with synthetic oil.
Any modern engine with modern oils will last 2 or 300,000 miles with the minimum of attention. Much longer if you are fanatical. Very few people keep cars long enough to find out, or something else on the car breaks.
Do I need to bring the car to dealer to have check? You advice is highly appreciated.
john
If not bought new i hope you have the service records.
Check your owner's manual for service intervals.
I have a 2005 Accord V6 with around 66K miles. Today I drove for around 10-12 miles in an extremely HOT Houston with AC at full blast (the car indicated that the outside temp was 105). When I stopped, I noticed that they temperature guage was well above the half way mark and a fan seemed to be running after the engine was turned off. This went on for about 5 minutes and then it went off. I drove back home - another 10 miles and the same thing happened.
Is this normal? I plan to take it to the mechanic tomorrow- do I need to have it towed or can I drive it?
Thanks!
kris
Stay cool all is working well!
Thanks for your responses. I checked the coolant level- it was full in the radiator and 1/2 way between min and max in the over flow tank. Drove it to work today (about 3 miles). The temp quickly climbed to the 1/2 way mark and stayed there.
thanks again
kris
If not, you might want to replace the thermostat.
Replace engine oil and oil filter
Inspect front and rear brakes
Check parking brake adjustment
Inspect these items:
Tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
Suspension components
Driveshaft boots
Brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
All fluid levels and condition of fluids
Exhaust system
Fuel lines and connections
Dealer obviously suggests a lot more service for about $300 such as rotate tires, roadforce balancing, air filter, inspect distributor cap, clean injectors, 40 point service inspection and others.
What should I do at 22K miles if I plan on keeping this car for the long haul?
I am writing this note because I need rear brakes- and rotors on an Accord EX V6.
My normally reliable dealer is charging $420.00 for brakes and rotors. I think that is robbery....
Anyone know of a dealer that can do the work cheaper?
Does anyone know of any coupons I can find for this service? I have looked everywhere....
If so, please let me know...
thanks a lot... any insight helps!
thanks
Get a few opinions/estimates before you have it done. The worst they can do is give you the same answer/price, which I would wager won't happen.
I can recommend RPM in Newington, VA, who have taken care of my cars for the past 15 yrs. or so. They are not the cheapest but are reliable and honest and they don't do unnecessary work.
If you call they can tell you what they'd charge for this work 703.550.8240.
I have no connection with them other than being a long time customer.
Me: Your Website says that you service Porsche and Audi cars... do you also service Hondas?
RPM: We sometimes service Hondas but usually only if our customer already services a Porsche with us. Do you have a Porsche?
Me: No, but RPM was referred on a car Web site and that person drives a Honda.
RPM: Does that customer also drive a Porsche? We're very busy with Porsches and Audis and we try to keep quiet about servicing other cars. We wouldn't want to lose that customer so yes, how about we talk about what services you need for your Honda and we'll see if we can help you. It's late today and it's the worst time for a call so why don't I call you - wait, how about you call me tomorrow at 11 am, does that sound good to you?
Me: Um, sure, thanks.
Sheesh. I doubt I'll be over there any time soon! Let's hope my experience was an isolated incident...
I personally don't need any work on my car in the immediate future but I'm always looking for a good, reliable independent shop. I was confused because the previous poster said that he has had a good relationship with RPM for the past 15 years but when I went to RPM's Website they made no mention of servicing anything but Porsches and Audis. That's why I called RPM about servicing Hondas.
I have forgotten how to use the key fob to lower the windows from outside the car. This feature allows one to partially lower the windows to vent a hot car interior before entering.
Any help here would be appreciated . Thanks
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'm hoping it's a problem with the gear shifter module but dreading that it will be the transmission (seems to early for it to go at 50k miles).
Any ideas?
The dealer wanted to change the transmission fluid, the brake fluid, and a bunch of other stuff to the tune of $450. I can't find anything that says I have to change any of those fluids yet. They also wanted to do some fuel system service - which the manual seems to actually suggest against. What the heck? I mean the Subaru dealer has a suggested maintenance schedule but that's ridiculous.
Is there any trick to changing the brake fluid/bleeding the brakes on this particular Accord? Previous wisdom was to start at the brake furthest from the m/c and work your way in pumping the brakes. Does ABS or EBD affect that?
I am planning to do this myself using Honda parts for the filters and I've had good luck with Honda fluids (I know they are probably just someone else's stuff relabeled and more $$, but I haven't had an issue with them yet - oil will be 5w20 GTX most likely). Are there any other recommendations? I'm budgeting about 90 minutes to get through this.
I have an 06 EX-L I4 manual. My dealer wanted to do a bunch of extra stuff as well at 30k. After doing some research, the transmission and brake fluid changes seemed the only things worthwhile besides the MM suggestions. The air filter and inside cabin filters were easy to do (well, the air filter did involved a bit of wrestling). I had the dealer do the fluid changes.
I don't get as down and dirty as Elroy but he has a lot of experience with his own maintenance. FWIW, I remember that my 95 Accord was notorious for taking a long time to bleed the brakes. Mechanics I talked to said that was common for Honda. Don't know if that is still the case.
Yeah it seems like another light comes on when it wants you to do the transmission, its like a 3 or a 4.
I am pretty comfortable with doing the required inspections and fluid changes, so I think I am going to do an HandA order and do it next weekend.