Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Quick Links
Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Quick Links
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs
Comments
A better way to explain it: It feels the same as if you were driving a manual transmission in too high a gear and that feeling you get thru the car when it's "telling" you to downshift... the bucking/shuddering motion. That's the way it feels
If I step harder on the gas, it won't behave this way.. only if I'm being very "gentle"
I hope I explained that well enough...
Anyone hear of or have a similar issue?
Anyone have any ideas?
READ MORE HERE
if you haven't yet, getting the fluid changed (the honda way, with honda fluid) may help.
2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)
As to a step-by-step I'm not your person, but this should help you at least find the bolts.
Because of your intrepidness; I feel compelled to assist. The upper nuts on the bolts, are located behind your back seat. Hopefully, your backseat releases and drops down. Directly over the rear humps, behind the fabric, held in place by black "button" clips, you will see I believe at least two nuts. I used a 3/8's inch drive with I believe a 12 or 14 mm socket. After you release the strut, it should drop down, and you should be able to install the new one in reverse order. In addition, using a floor jack, under the lower assembly, should really help you, when aligning the bottom bolt, which secures the strut, to the lower suspension. Hope this helps! Ed...
Anyone have any thoughts as to a reputable place?
Thank you
I have ended up with warped OEM rotors and cracked pads too many times. I finally put my dollars towards after market rotors and pads. They are one of my best investments for my 04 Accord.
BTW, I am pretty hard on my brakes.
This is what I bought from the TireRack:
1 Akebono pro-act ceramic pads In Stock $43.00 $43.00
1 Akebono pro-act ceramic pads In Stock $55.00 $55.00
1 Power slot rotor (ea) In Stock $84.00 $84.00
1 Power slot rotor (ea) In Stock $84.00 $84.00
I actually wanted to get Hawk pads but I don't they offered them at the time.
Message #5284 suggestion of Akebono Ceramic pads is a great idea, especially since Akebono makes Honda's OEM brake pads. However, if you have a problem finding them, NAPA makes Adative One hybrid-ceramic pad, which is also excellent!! I really feel the difference, and in chorus with the high-performance drilled and slotted rotors--makes a formidable combination. Prevents warping becuz it keeps your rotors 150-200 degrees cooler; especially, if you live in a hotter climate like the Southwestern US.
I recently noticed that the keyhole on my driver's side door is marching further and further back in to my door making it hard to put a key in the door (I only use the keyhole when I'm trying to roll up the window after having forgotten in the car). It looks like the trim around the door handle pops off, but I don't want to risk it.
Has anybody had this problem and how should I fix it?
thanks.
With the car being at 30k, seems I should deal w/ the major service items. I looked over on http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.html , and seems I should make sure to have taken care of:
Air filter
Cabin air filter
Engine oil & Filter
And then inspections on:
Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections
Inspect Brakes
Inspect Drive belt(s)
Inspect boots & seals Drive shaft
Inspect Exhaust system
Inspect Fluid levels
Inspect Fuel lines, hoses & connections
Inspect/adjust Parking brake
Inspect Suspension
Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots
Rotate/adjust air pressure Wheels & tires
Looking at older maintenance, at 20k edmunds says to have the "Inspect Steering gear rack, linkage & boots" which seems pretty close to the "Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots" I listed right above. Not sure if that was checked out on my last visit.
I'm planning on just leaving the car at the dealer w/ a $35 coupon for oil change, multi-point inspection. which includes either an alignment check or a tire rotation (can't remember which) and I think a battery check too. Hopefully that'll cover all these things to inspect.
I bought the air filter and am planning on doing it on my own. Still haven't gotten the cabin air filter yet. When I visited the dealer near my work, they wouldn't match the price of www.handa-accessories.com/ but the air filter was cheaper or very close in price anyways. However the cabin air filter/pollen filter was significantly more. I'm going to try one more time to visit the dealer near my home and see if they'll match the price to www.handa-accessories.com/ and stock up on some cabin air filters. Or just order from handa.
Changing the oil and both filters you mentioned is necessary. You may also want to do a search about brake and transmission fluids. There are different opinions around here on how often those should be performed.
I'm guessing that your coupon is for tire rotation. I prefer that they measure the tread depth on the front and rears and rotate them only when necessary.
If the Maintenance Minder bothers you, there is nothing wrong with following the old recommendations based purely on mileage. Many Honda dealers want you to follow their own schedules but that includes a lot of unnecessary things, IMHO. I suggest that you use the MM or another mileage-based schedule and stick to it.
Could be any number of things causing the problem, but the codes will at least point to the correct area to look at.
2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)
It's been a while since I've posted and now I have another small problem. It appears that my passenger side window motor is dying. The other day I rolled the window down through the key fob and then when I started the engine the window rolled up as if it had the auto up feature (my car is a 2003 LX and doesn't have this feature) and then I was driving down the road and it refused to go down. A little later I was driving after having gotten the window down and it wouldn't go back up. So I shut the radio off and attempted to roll down with the master switch and I could hear something trying to engage (and no the lock-out switch wasn't engaged), but nothing was happening. At one point I dropped the car in neutral (I was going slow so as not to damage anything) and dropped it back in drive and the window starting working again. I highly doubt they're related. Does anybody have any ideas?
Also, sometimes the windows will work after shutting the car down and restarting. How much might I expect to pay if I took it somewhere? I'm not mechanically inclined and even if I was I have no space to work where I live.
Thanks,
Tankbeans (aka Tristan)
2003 Accord LX Coupe 76,300 miles.
Good luck!
When the window does work, does it go up at normal speed, or does it seem like it's straining? If the window moves normally, I suspect the switch, if the motor drags I suspect the motor or the regulator (the regulator and motor are sold together I believe). Majestic Honda prices are $118.26 for the motor/regulator, and $131.23 for the driver's master switch (dealer prices are about $50 more). The labor cost would probably be more for the window motor/regulator than the switch (more work to change). Good luck getting it fixed.
Thank you for your response. I just got back home from work and checked out the performance of the window on the way home. I had opened via the key fob and it went back up upon starting the engine. That being said the window appears to go back up as normal (when it works). Is this something that is easy enough for a person who isn't mechanically inclined to do or would I be better served taking it in?
Thank you,
Tristan