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Pull over the car, stop engine and to recap, and message is gone right away.
Ever since then, with same driving condition and the fuel consumption becomes worse: about 4 miles less per gallon.
Car is out of the warranty, anyone experience such problem?
I know the rule about fuel cap: click at least 3 times (i done 4) after refuel.
Thank you,
1. Turn the climate control to AUTO (make sure DUAL is off).
2. Turn the temperature all the way down then all the way up and then set to your desired temp.
So far this has worked every time the door has stuck for me (usually in the middle of the summer!). My car has almost 150K miles and I have no plans to get rid of it anytime soon. If this problem became permanent and was cost prohibitive to repair, my eyes might start wandering though...
Disconnect battery cable for 2 minutes. (because you have tried too many times to enter the code)
Turn key to "accessories"
Press radio power to on
CODE appears
Then wait for a BEEP
Then enter your code with the presets
Good luck
Good work! Glad to hear this has been squared away!
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What about insulating the hose you installed? As an example:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DES0/010408/N1808.oap?ck=Search_N1808_-- 1_3276&pt=N1808&ppt=C0379
Mrbill
The radio turns on, the display lights up like it should, I can switch stations and turn the volume up and down. I can insert CD's and eject them normally. The only thing I'm getting no sound from the radio, after about 10seconds I get like a static/ white noise sound through the speakers which I cannot turn up or down with the volume control.
Just looking for answers if anyone has had the same issue or may know if its fixable, what ill need to do to fix it.
Thanks!
You may need a mirror to see the bottom of the radio. There are plenty of video on YouTube showing how easily the radio can be taken out or inspected for loose wires. Good luck.
For those of you who would rather save your hard earned money, this is a simple 5 min. (yes, even if you haven't done it before) do it yourself job that can be done for less than $20.00. That's a savings of at least $50.00.
If anyones interested I will post the how to.
Here's one well-known company, along with their pitch:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-is-oil-analysis.php
Their FAQ tab is actually rather amusing.
Blackstone called me on first one. I don't know if that's typical--mine had a surprise in the analysis showing a slight Na and K increase (sodium and potassium) indicating coolant traces in oil. Turned out to be a seep at the throttle body gasket on 3800--almost a service item.
They show a sample analysis result page you get by mail on first one and by email on successive tests. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php
They do write helpful comments about the analysis just as they did in the sample. Your old test results are kept on their website IIRC under your email. So if you lose the email you can retrieve them later.
I agree with other post that you might run up mileage more and then change oil, catch sample in middle of drain stream, and it will be worth the $25-35 just to know.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have been very impressed with the longevity of components......
At circa 130,000 miles, the factory original elements noted below are still in place............
1. Brake compoments
2. Clutch
3. The Iridiums
I was at a local bar (eating lunch) and a north valley auto repair shop owner said (I wrote it down on a cocktail napkin (comes with lunch). "Those Iridiums will go 200,000 miles. Who knew? (My OM indicates 105,000 for replacement.)
I sort of feel guilty (this month I plan to replace my 1982 VW diesel pickup - - - with 'nuther VW oil burner at that)
all the best, ez
While I am no fan of wasting money, pushing a synthetic past 7500 seems to me an awfully risky way of saving $75 bucks.
Toureg? Passat? Jetta? Golf? I came pretty close to a Passat diesel recently, but wound up with another Accord (Stick of course). Hard to beat the reliability and durability. I changed the irridiums at 120k and they still looked fine (already had the new ones so I went ahead with it), Still have front brakes original at 161k, same for clutch. I did have to replace rear brakes because I dented the e-brake cable and it rusted shut, keeping the left rear engaged for a while before I got it fixed.
Only repair in 161k was a new O2 sensor at about 110k. $90 and 15 minutes of my time. Use Mobil one 0w-20 and Pur1 synthetic filters about every 9k.
Love the wagon/dislike the heavy computer presence (plus attorney-written OM - NOT user friendly)
Accord continues with factory original plugs, pads, rotors and clutch at 132,000.
If the TDI can get anywhere close to this Honda from almost any measurement standpoint, I'm one happy (former) sailor.
all the best, ez
I recently replaced my battery and the radio code is not working, I get ERR 1, 2 etc until I hit all 10 allowed. I disconnected the neg battery terminal to give me another 10 tries but each time it gives me an error. I have used this code successfully every other time I have replaced the battery so I cannot figure out if I am missing a step or if maybe the radio lost its code somehow.
Bascially, the radio (non-NAV BTW), will spell C-O-D-E as I enter the 5 digit code. On the 5th digit, it beeps and displays ERR 1.
Any ideas would be appreciated, this is the same radio and code I have always used.
thanks!
Would have been my first choice, but my 3 sons did not have enough legroom in back. Too bad that chassis does not have the leg room of the new Jetta sedan.
No problems yet on my '13 Accord. 2,500 miles is kind of pathetic for me in over 3 months. My projects have changed a little so less travel. My oldest son is driving my '07 - still going strong at 161,000 miles and could probably double that.
Again, fuel consumption is back to about ~5 miles less per gallon under the same driving condition and with clean fluids (trans, oil, coolant), clean filters (air filter, cabin filter) and correct psi for tires.
Really don't know why and could be the vehicle on board computer problem ?
Any suggestion ?
Thank you,
The filters cost about $11 online and you can get them though Amazon. Very, very easy for either filter. Engine might need an extension for a ratchet wrench. I have a 2005 V6 Accord and shocked myself at how easy it was. My dealer wanted $100 to replace the cabin air filter in NJ.
The cabin air filter can be found in most auto parts stores and takes maybe 3-5 minutes to replace. That's assuming your glove box is full.
The air filter for the engine is a little longer. To pay a dealer to do these simple items is way too much. Of course they have overhead and expenses, but it is way too easy. Go to YouTube and search for it. You will be amazed how easy it is.
Size: 205/60R16
Sidewall Style: Blackwall
Serv. Desc: 92V
UTQG: 440 A A
Kumho KH 18
Here in NoCal, 2/32 is legal (but no less than 4/32 is recommended).
Sure agree pricey (but just look at TireRack's survey results!!
ez
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic