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I had the cam tensioner changeout done at around 65K miles. Now it's back, and I find after reading the posts that Ford isssued a 72K/6yr program change that leaves me out in the dark. I have heard that the original replacement fasteners were made out of nylon and have subsequently been replaced with steel ones. Is this true? Do I have a snowball's change in Hades to get the dealer to change them out again at no/low cost? I would have loved to get a note from the dealer - they always seem to find time to remind me about things I can do myself like change the oil, but if it's related to a recall - I guess not. FYI to all, I never got the notice from Ford - am I the only one or did they miss others who already had the work done as well?
I wish it was that quiet in my truck. My 2000 XLS started to exhibit a rattle/squeak from the B pillar this past week. It happens when going over bumps, and depending on the speed and/or whether I am at a bend in the road it is louder or quieter. I read Ryster's many problems with a bad welding job on his 2000 XLS and I hope I am not in for the same.
I'm particularly frustrated, as this wonderful Ford vehicle just had a new transmission put in last month with 21,000 on the odometer.
Just out of curiosity, when was your Explorer built? Mine was built 5/00 (according to the sticker on the door). Maybe there are a string of Explorers with bad welds?
Later!
Funny as it seems, today it really wasn't making too much racket after days of it getting worse and worse. I definitely will get it looked at soon, though.
Aw heck, may as well ask one more question while I'm signed in here...my steering column seems to have aquired a squeak when going over rough patches in the road. Thoughts?
I think I have pinpointed the area of concern regarding my previous postings on my rattle/clicking noise from the front passenger side of my 97 Explorer...it seems the rubber stripping along the door and into the windshield area is somewhat loose - the clicking (I think) comes from it heating up, expanding, and sticking to another piece of stripping in the same area. I'm not sure if I can do anything about it, but I can replicate the sound now, and sort of make it disappear by manipulating the rubber bits in that area.
Still looking for a cause, have not found one. I am sure this will be another one to be chalked up in the dealer's "could not duplicate" column.
Mine was built in 10.2000 and was built in St. Louis.
Good luck.
It's under warranty, and I finally caved today and made an appointment for next week.
PS...My truck is 21 months old with just over 22,500 miles on it. When should I get the radiator flushed and coolant changed?
Just as a follow-up to mazman about the noise with door open. My truck clunked from the b-pillar area even with my door open during driving. Despite that, the dealer tore the door apart before even attempting to look at other possible sources of the noise.
Here's a question for all: In the process of getting my b-pillar fixed months ago, the door panel was removed and replaced so many times it is now warped. What would be the odds of having a dealer (other than the one who did the b-pillar repair) replace the door panel under warranty? There are also some loud ticking/rattling noises in the door that were not there before. Probably due to the door not being reassembled correctly after the whole repair job was done.
I also have a loud rattle in the dash. Wonder if the dealer can fix that without removing the dashboard? If not, I would rather live with the rattle; it's too hard to remove and replace dashes without causing even more problems.
Oh yeah, there is also a fix for the problem that '98-'01 Explorers have where the rear wiper will not sweep the whole rear window. Ford has a redesigned rear wiper arm they can install on the vehicles.
These are such annoying little problems. Kind of sad to have them on a 17 month old vehicle with only 22,000 miles. If the truck had 50,000 miles I would be more tolerant. It could be worse, I suppose
Later!
After 10 years of Explorer products, its a love/hate relationship. Numerous times I have said to myself, "I will not by another Explorer product", I mean it this time. I can deal with the maintenance issues, for I have a wonderful dealer that goes out of their way to take care of me (actually the key learned here is buy a Mountaineer... Mercury/Lincoln dealer service is so much better) and an extended warranty (a must on any 4WD SUV). The final straw for me is the recent death of Explorer resale value.
For years I have said if I could only get a Honda Accord in the shape of an Explorer? My prayers have been answered, with my Pilot arriving in early June. I think I will just deal with the rear wiper 'til then. Heck... I have not been able to see clearly out the back window for almost three years, why start now?
Regarding trany flushes. A flush is different from just changing the fluid. A flush will run you about $200. It involves removing all the fluid and replacing the fluid in the torque converter as well.. and a new tranny filter. A flush will remove a lot of gunk and deposits from the seals. Just changing the fluid (costs about $40) is usually inadequate, unless you only want to use the vehicle for 36K miles or 3 years, whichever comes first.
Regarding Radiator flushes, should do this every other year, before winter or before summer (the two most stressful seasons on your vehicle)... Regardless of mileage.
Good luck
Mazman
Way to go!!!
PS...The Exploder goes in Thursday for the rattle...I think it is the door and the way it is secured to the B Post when closed, but strangely enough it does not make the sound when someone rides in the passenger's seat. Maybe a little pressure on the door from someone resting their arm on it causes it to sit a little more snug?
BUG: feature as described by our marketing department.
and it beats trying to sneak stuff in here that would make a chief petty officer blush with embarassment
I had the same code come up a while back. The gas cap was not loose but marred. A brillo pad to smooth out the lip and a new cap took care of the leak. It seems that when you pump gas that it is very easy to ding the filler lip causing small leaks. If all else fails just go around the car and tighten every stinking fuel line connection you can find. That should take care of it.
Thanks.
Love all the bells and whistles. Seems like I can not give it away. Trade-in on internet ranges from $8,900 to $10,700(checking 3 sites). The best I have been offered is $7,200.
Figures with all the creaks and roars.
Purchased w/ 46K two years old-maybe my mistake?
1. Rear glass never opened. Back door locks defective-even with child locks off, passengers get stuck and have to wait for assistance to get out.
2. Tire recall. Blew that one-had one to fall apart PRIOR to the recall. Ended up replacing all at my expense.
3.Upper and lower intake gaskets replaced at 57K.
Later showed up on a recall.
4.Camshaft chain pretensioner. Done on recall at 80K though had problems for quite awhile prior to discovering source. Took in at 76K and was told it checked ok.
5. Transmission. Currently "roaring" though transmission shop is not sure that transmission is causing it, as it makes noise while vehicle is sitting still. Slipping in 2nd. Estimate for transmission repair-$260-$1,200, they don't know for sure until they get the transmission out.
6.Suspension-every little dent in the road the vehicle dips and rolls, creaks, moans, and complains.
7.A/C- Have just spent $180 to have accumulator replaced. Problem still not fixed.
8.Throttle body plate-recall.
9.Hearing an "air noise". Could be vacuum? Compression? Idling roughly, and don't know about this yet, could be something, could be nothing. First things first. Don't know where to start.
Other minor irritations: automatic headlights have a mind of their own-regardless of day or night. Rear door handle no longer operates.
Heat/ac controls now making noises when changing selection. Lumber support in driver's seat will not stay inflated.
A note on transmission. I had the vehicle checked out by a Ford Dealership prior to purchase from another source. Checked okay, but transmission fluid was dirty. I immediately had replaced, and again at 84K. That was 38K apart. Don't know if that is often enough? Have only used the 4WD on hard surface roads, perhaps twice a year in incliment weather.
My interest is in the engine because I'm considering buying a Ranger with the 4.0 SOHC.
I can't find a Ranger owner with a long term report because they only began using that engine in 2001.
Your observations will help. Thanks again.
382, 386, 404, 415, 417, 423, 426, 430, 431, 437, 440.
I am sure there are more posts in regards to the SOHC, but at this point I pretty much got the message.
Good Luck,
4dunes
as for the noise at idle... 4.0 SOHC has had a long history of crappy cam locating and tensioning blocks in the head, because the original design of the engine used nylon parts that couldn't stand the gaff. Ford has done a recall on those heads. if the noise you have sounds like a diesel engine or a whacking sound, get thee to a dealer and check it out.
there are also lots of other issues that could be generating cabin noise... I have had a little exhaust leak come and go header-to-Y-pipe. if the exhause system has ever had any parts put in it, that is the first place I would look, something mounted with wrong clearance and banging on something.
there have been a lot of screams about Ford issues on these boards, chiefly the 4.0 SOHC, matching trannies that lost overdrive (some expensive internal parts, some grease gooping up a sensor), and rattles in or near doors.
I've got a 2000 Limited AWD V8 that has had a rotten oil pressure sender replaced due to a bad parts run, one rattle that keeps turning up in body cladding bolts being misthreaded and jammed here and there in the front left side, a turn/flasher switch replaced... thank goodness, a Ford replacement of >= KILLER TIRES! tm <=... and no other issues at all, solid and serious.
Thanks a lot. That's better than finding out the hard way.