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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gasburnergasburner Member Posts: 31
    I have a 99 Exp. XLT V8. This weekend I had a problem with my steering lock mechanism. I went to start my car and put my key in the ignition but couldn't turn it. The wheel lock mechanism was engaged and wouldn't budge, and the key was now stuck in the mechanism. I fought with the thing for about 20 min. trying every combination of turning the wheel and key, stepping on the brake, and trying to move the shifter. Finally, I called Ford's roadside assistance so I could get it towed. After I reported the problem, and knew I could get a tow, I tried one last time using MUCH MORE force, and was able to turn the ignition. Now the mechanism works just fine, like nothing ever happened. This is the second time this has happened, the first time, about 2 weeks ago,it only took me about 30 sec. of fighting with it. I've already brought it to the Ford dealer once previously and told them that mechanism wasn't as smooth as it was when I bought it, and the dealer said it was normal. I suspect that if I bring it in again, it will be a similar response. Anybody have this problem, or possible solution.

    On another issue, I had my brake pads changed a while back by an independent mechanic. When I got my truck back, the steering feel was different (hard to keep on center, with very little feedback.) I took it to the Ford dealer and they said that when the pads were changed, the mechanic moved the wheels without the engine on, which caused air in the power steering system. They then bled the lines (under warranty) which fixed the problem. I've never heard of this before, and neither had the independent. Anybody have this experience?
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    First off, I need new front brake pads. Bought some Bendix Titanium at Advance Auto yesterday, paid close to 40 bucks for 'em. Anybody ever used these on their explorer?
    Secondly, Last week the thing starts missing, and the check engine light comes on. I leave it at the Ford dealer for a few hours and they call me back with "needs new plugs." Okay, I didn't think plugs could get so bad in 43k miles but okay. Turns out, the #4 plug was bad. However, not only did they want to replace the plugs at $10.14 each, plus the outrageous labor, they wanted to do an induction cleaning for $44.95, and change the fuel filter, for a grand total of $317.52. I said "shut the hood, park it out front, and don't touch it until I get there." I called my "normal maintanence" garage, and they could do the exact same service for $130. That was including a cost of just under $7 per plug. I take this into consideration, and return to pick up the explorer. I'm then informed that I owe them $95 for the "diagnosis." What a rip off. Now, I make 6 bucks and 3 quarters an hour, so I'm looking for the cheapest way to approach this situation, and where do you go for the cheapest? Wal Mart. There, you can get autolite platinum plugs, 2 for $3.88. However, they didn't have the ones for my OHV V6. At Advance, they run about 4 bucks a piece. A very mechanically inclined buddy of mine offered to put them in for me, so I was approaching that prospect. However, at the last minute, he informs me he can't due to other family obligations, so I left my explorer at the garage this morning to get the plugs replace (no cleaning, no fuel filter), an alignment and balance the tires. Going to put the brakes on next week.
    Thirdly, I'm having a flowmaster exhaust put on Friday morning. Has anyone else had a performance exhaust put on their explorer? I couldn't get duals on the '99 because of a fuel line running down the drivers side, so I'm getting a single pipe with 2 outlets with the flowmaster muffler. The double tip will come out near the top behind the wheel, and will face the side of the car. I think it will look great, and I can't wait to hear the sound.
    And finally, does anyone know what the name of the burnt orange color is that was used on the XLS Explorers from '99-'01? It isn't the bright orange that appeared on the '01 Sports, this is a darker, reddish orange. Questions or comments are welcome ;)
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    The above example is how dealers alienate their customers. They want to charge $44.00 for an induction cleaning when the chemicals cost them a grand total of no more than $10.00. There are some on these boards that work for dealers in sales and management that defend their practices, I will not go anywhere near a dealer unless I have to. There are some electrical issues that crop up that sometimes dealers need to diagnose, but thats the only time I go near them.
  • nand12nand12 Member Posts: 6
    Please check your engine at idle, with the hood open to see if you have a diesel-like noise eminating from the black engine cover. It's very likely that all the 2004 explorers make this noise and that they make it because Ford built defective engines for the 2004 model year. The diesel sound and its timing with acceleration etc., is consistent with a timing chain/tensioner or cam shaft tensioner defect which plagued the 1997-2001 model year vehicles equipped with the 4.0 L SOHC. I personally advise all 2004 4.0 L explorer owners to get the facts from their respective dealers to see what the defect with the engines is.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    I got my explorer back yesterday evening, and I can tell a huge difference. The front end was out of alignment a decent amount, and after the correction, it's a lot easier to keep on center and the steering feels a lot tighter.
    They ran the computer diagnostic to reset the idiot light, and it showed a #4 plug misfire. They didn't charge me but a couple bucks for that since they already knew the problem, just had to reset the light. The mechanic suggested that I have a cleaning service performed, about 40 bucks, cleans the injectors, throttle body, lots of other components, and he said "you wouldn't believe the difference it makes. I did it to mine and it made a huge difference." So I'm thinking I might get that done next week. I'm going to see how it runs this week with the new plugs. So far so good, but I only drove about 15 minutes after getting it from the garage. Total bill for yesterday's work was $145, which I feel was well worth it.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    fascinating. if they put nylon parts in that german-built engine again, they ought to be horsewhipped, baled in barbed wire, hung upside down naked from a high-tension line in a blizzard and sprayed with boiling water... and then somebody needs to get serious with 'em.

    darned glad I insisted on my V8.
  • nand12nand12 Member Posts: 6
    If you have the 4.6 L V8 i wouldn't be jumping for joy either because apparently these engines are blowing head gaskets prematurely according to many ford owners. I read one account of a person who bought a brand new fully loaded 2004 expedition with the 4.6 L V8 and by the time he reached 6,000 miles, his vehicle was diagnosed with a blow headgasket. I think Ford is really playing us all for fools because they just dont seem to get the design and engineering right.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    and no, my 2000 has the historic old 302 V8, aka 5.0L. that relic of the 70s used to occasionally get a little piston slap, I am told, but otherwise was pretty tight and solid. also hell to replace plugs 3 and 7 on back in the days of the Boss Mustang, but the plastic inner fenders of the exploders make getting to those plugs right easy now.

    ford better watch out, they'll get a "rep" for head gaskets. the 3.8L V6 on the 90s taurus was a legend in that regard. maybe they should just make nice, thick, fat, ugly, heavy blocks again and be done with the warranty calls.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Not really, being slightly sarcastic. I took my Explorer in for a funny shifting transmission, first they told me they couldn't duplicate the problem, then I showed them what it was doing and suddenly that was normal. Oh well, I figure if it has a problem it will show up before the 100k ESC is up.

    As for the dieseling engine sound mentioned in the post above, my 2004 doesn't seem to be doing that and I'm at 6500 miles.
  • nand12nand12 Member Posts: 6
    Are you sure that your explorer doesnt make the diesel noise? As far as I have checked, ALL the 2004 explorers equipped with the 4.0 L make the noise because i checked a lot of them at my dealer and there are numerous complaints about the noise on other forums. As far as my '04 explorer is concerned, I took it in to the dealer and they are replacing the engine as we post. And the explorer only has 550 frickin miles. In any case many people are having their engines replaced early to prevent it from seizing up later on. I would just check and make sure that you dont have the noise. With the hood open, observe the noise that comes from the black engine cover.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Mine is super quiet hood closed or open. I will turn 7000 miles this week, NO engine problems AT ALL. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I use 0W-30 synthetic oil in my Explorer. I've owned mine since January 6, 2004 and 12 miles.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I'm running two 4.0L engines currently, one with 125,000 miles on it, and the other with 30,000. No noise.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Geez, you have GOT to get rid of that thing! You are cursed when it comes to Explorers. If I had just bought a new $30K SUV and got a bad motor AND transmission, I'd have driven it through the dealer's plate glass window by now. Good thing for Ford you're more patient than me!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Amen. I'm not patient, but I've had 4 awesome Explorers/Mountaineers, and have the 5th on order. But if the new one has a bad engine, I'll be anything but patient!

    I like Fords, but mainly I drive Fords because I have a mutual client who sells Lincolns to me for invoice. If he went away, I would play the field more than I do.
  • nand12nand12 Member Posts: 6
    Wow Akangl you are very lucky that you got a good motor. Maybe most of the motors shipped from the factory are using a bad viscosity oil for this engine. That would probably explain the valve clatter when idling that goes away once the engine speeds up. In any case it blew my engine out with only 550 miles so its pretty serious. Good luck with your vehicle.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    sorry about your engine problem, but you are the only one to post about it here.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Well, after talking to the Ford dealer in Fairbanks, I know what's up with the transmission, its minor, just the computer. They said they will replace it when it gets a bit worse, right now its fairly intermittant and I'm not worried about it.

    As for the engine, I asked about that and they said there is nothing that comes up for my truck's vin as far as special bullitins, they ran an oasis report on it.

    I will turn 7000 miles tomorrow. I really like my Explorer and have no intention of getting rid of it.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Based on the above quotes, I am just "checking in". My wife's Explorer has 19,000 miles with no mechanical issues. The two issues that have come up are:
    1) Bad drivers side rear power window motor
    2) Cracked panel underneath rear glass.
    Both of the above issues are very common.
    As far as motor noises are concerned; I have said this before, this motor is noisy, however it does not make any "diesel" sound. It runs good.
    The only other issue is that when we got the car back from the rear motor not working, we now have a rattle in the drivers door that wasn't there before. I made an appointment for this Saturday. BTW, if you put a partial synthetic oil in the motor when you do an oil change, it helps with the cold start ups and the engine quiets down sooner.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Is pretty much worthless. Why combine the worthlessness of petroleum with synthetic? It kind of takes away the whole point of synthetic oil. I run full synthetic in my 04 Explorer and in my hubby's 99 Ram V10, much better cold protection.
  • dgoughdgough Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1999 Ford Explorer. I've replaced the rearview mirror once already ($350.00 at the dealer) and it still shakes. A lot. As in you can't see out of it.

    Anyone else have this problem?

    Dawn
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Member Posts: 42
    I have a 2003 XLT w/ 54,000 miles. I took it to the Ford dealer on Monday morning hoping it was just a faulty light. Not exactly. They had it for 5 days and a total repair cost of $1074.41. The truck hasn't been abused, and never towed anything. The majority of the miles are interstate.

    The dealer found the torque converter clutch was failing to engage. Received code P0741. They had to remove and replace the valve body assy.

    Lucky for me this was a company vehicle. When I was on the phone with our fleet administrator, he said we have stopped ordering Explorers because of the quality issues and have switched to the F-150 4 doors. I would have a hard time spending my own money on a Ford after this.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I am not going to get in to a motor oil discussion here. However, it would seem to me a blend of syn/reg. oil offers better protection than regular motor oil. If you want to spend the money for full synthetic, go right ahead. However, it's not my imagination, the car quiets down faster since I switched to a "blend".
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    I don't want to debate it, but there have been studies done that say blends are worthless. Your Explorer may very well quiet down and that's wonderful, but full synthetic DOES offer much better protection. As for cost, well, I figure for the extra protection of that VERY expensive engine a couple bucks a quart extra is worth it.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I misread the posts, thinking the one titled "Akangl" was posted by her. Sorry! Didn't mean to scare you, Akangl!
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    No problem, I kinda figured that out. My Explorer is being pretty good these days, I'm not too worried about it, I know what the deal is with the tranmission now and will just ride it out until I have a chance to get it fixed.

    It just turned 7,200 miles yesterday.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    We were hearing a grinding noise from behind the temperature control area. It only happened when the truck was cold, and it appeared to grind when the passenger temperature went from 70+ to 60 with the driver side at 67. taking it to the dealer, they said they will replace the heater box. They also noted that they need 2 days because they need to "rip the dash apart." does anyone have any detail on this type of repair? Also, should i be concerned that the likelihood of having no more rattles in the dash is between slim and none?

    Thanks,

    AJM
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    With the A'udiophile" system, is it just my imagintion or does the radio data (text) display for only about 20 seconds and then stop. is this normal?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    your two issues, and another edition of "Communists In Engineering," in which Our Hero tags Evil Plots to make cars unfixable although they charge you a thousand dollars a pop.....

    1) heater box... sounds like the classic worn motor for the blower fan issue. at least through the 2001 explorer, you take the fan and blower out under the hood, like REAL cars have traditionally been made, by removing three bolts into the plastic duct and cracking a sealant gob on the motor. when you put the old blower on the new motor, you will have to hink around a couple times to get it aligned right, and may still have to tickle it when it gets cold... the fans drag on the duct as temperatures change, and there is one sweet spot. you lose that as the motor bearings wear out, allowing the motor shaft to thrust forward and push the fan into ducting.

    motors are $20-40. you can do this in an hour even if you hold the tools between your toes.

    / CIE section / if the 2002+ screwed this up, it's off my buy list. seriously. no foolin'. the ability to replace the blower motor without torches and fifty hours of labor in this cold climate is one of my top ten serviceability tests when I look at new cars. I have not been under the hood on a 2002 or later, but if they changed this PLUS made the tranny a sealed unit, I am not buying another explorer. one screwup in ten is my limit.

    it would be a pity, cause I like the truck, but $100 repairs that turn into $500 jobs that also screw up the dash so it's never right again is NEVER the correct engineering decision. and it implies a lot else was screwed up.

    are you listening, Detroilet? we need these things fixable. not buying anything that isn't. / end CIE /

    2) it was not normal in the earlier units, but it sounds like a setting option. you should be able to find a tickle for this in the manual to make the display stay on. my guess is it's a rotating option under the "OBD" switch or whatever they call the setup mode that stops the music and changes the time, etc.

    the mach units up to 2001 did suffer from display failure, and that was almost always the fault of power supply or front panel silver-solder joints that were too thin and cracked under heat and vibration stress. resoldering them fixes those issues.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    luckily (?) the heater box is a warranty repair. its a 2002 Ltd with 16,000 miles. my main concern is the "rip the dash apart" comment that the dealer made. I gues i will be hearing squeaks and rattles in my future.

    with regards to the radio, the manual says nothing. it tells you how to turn on and off the display, but does not mention that it freezes after a little bit. once frozen, if i change stations and go back it works again. its so hard to determine if it is a reception problem or the way the thing is set up.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Limited the heater was stuck on HOT, it was the blend door in the heater box, they would have to rip the dash apart to replace a $200 part. I was quoted about $1500 for the job. Needless to say between that and the front end being gone, the truck went bye-bye too. Bought a 2004 XLS Sport, much better truck.
  • yettibuttyettibutt Member Posts: 98
    Has anyone else noticed the front seats on their 03' Explorer (or 02/04 I guess) tilting to one side? If you look at mine from the front, both seats seem to tilt towards the outside (doors).
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Okay...when your vehicle has been in the garage more in the past month than on the road, it's time to weigh some options. Most of the work done so far has been normal maintenance, except a spark plug failing. I was putting brake pads on Monday morning, and just as I got it jacked up off the ground, I noticed a puddle of fluid under the engine. It looked a lot like oil, but turns out it was power steering fluid. I opened the hood, and power steering fluid was covering the entire engine compartment. The cap to the resovoir was barely hanging on, but had been blown off. It is hard to get that sucker off, so there had to have been a hell of a lot of pressure on that thing. What would cause pressure to blow the cap off and blow fluid out of the fill hole? I left it at the garage this morning, and apparently this is a common problem with explorers. How many of you guys have had this problem?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    on 4 Explorers/Mountaineers. Sounds like it was either overfilled, or you turn the wheel with the engine not running. That's the best way to pop the cap. Don't do that!

    Didn't we all tell you not to buy that particular Explorer several months ago???
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    and it really shouldn't take ALL that much pressure to blast the cap off. it's plastic-on-plastic with the resivoir, not much of a seal, and not much for threading. I'd guess plus 7 to 10 pounds would lift the thing, and much less to leak.

    if it's a mechanical issue, either the pump is surging, and/or the hose between the resivoir and the pump is deteriorating and periodically plugging or pinching shut. then you would expect a buildup of PS fluid in the resivoir, until the pump is gasping for material, then it might pull a little through.

    I'd get a new cap, pump, and replace the intermediate hose myself, and do an immediate flush of the PS fluid in that case.

    it could also be you have a hose end coming apart or a dying hose, probably the return hose into the resivoir, as that is designed to lie against the thing for anti-rattle purposes. that's a lot more common on older PS systems than overpressure issues.

    there is a full-indicator mark on the bottom of the plastic dipstick built into the cap, and fluid should just touch it cold. should just touch the full-hot indicator if the engine is highway-and-towing hot, too hot to lean against the engine. looking through the side of the resivoir, there should be something on the order of one clear inch at the top before you get to the fluid. if you're pouring the resivoir full, that's the issue that needs to be fixed.

    that's that orange exploder, huh? sounds like you wanted some wrenching time. this is one you can do yourself... but I would advise getting an idler/belt tool before trying to remove the drive belt. I didn't, couldn't get enough windage with my ratchets to get the goldarned belt back ON my V8, and ended up having it towed so I could have it fixed monday morning and get to work monday afternoon. the tool is 40-50 bucks and any parts store that doesn't have one can order it.
  • gasburnergasburner Member Posts: 31
    I'd have to go with nvbaker's explanation as a prime suspect. I had air develop in the brake lines after a brake job by an independent. The official Ford explanation was that the wheel assembly was turned with the engine off. I've since confirmed this is not that uncommon, irrespective of vehicle make. See my post 2480
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    While we are on the topic of power steering, the Explorer owners manual for the 99 Explorer calls for Mercon ATF to be used in the power steering. Can we use the one fluid fits all ATF or MUST it be specifically Mercon ATF for the power steering?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    ford used to call for type F, and apparently there were premature rack failures in the mid 90s from some posts a while back. the fluid apparently dissolved inner seals, which all of a sudden due to a production modification expected mercon. a little different chemically, and the friction modifier is allegedly fibers in type F and bubbles in mercon, which can behave differently.

    they specifically call for dexron III/mercon in my 00 exploder. being your typical bullheaded german, I browsed the rack at the parts place until I found a label reading exactly that, and bought four quarts. if they said to use sheep snot and change it in the bright harvest moon, I would set my alarm :(

    reason is, then I got somebody I can sue if it falls off the next day.

    there used to be a "universal PS fluid" sold by places like amoco in the 80s and early 90s. I suspect it's only universal if you want everybody to growl about their rack rotting and spraying fluid on the backs of the brake rotors, instead of some owners only. for that matter, there is "hydraulic fluid" sold at all the tractor supply stores in 5-gallon cans for $30 that has pretty much the same base lube stock. it might work. it might rot you out. I'm not going to test it myself.

    read the manual, buy exactly what it calls for, then you have a warm feeling around your backside in case of a so-called fluid-related failure where you would be stuck with the bill.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    What he said! Totally.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Swschrad & nvbanker for that info. Of course I can always leave the power steering fluid alone and will probably be fine, but when a sick mind sees the dirty fluid in the reservoir the fluid must be changed! It will be changed with the Mercon.

    Bioman
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Thanks for the info. I'm out of town at the moment, driving a '95 Toyota T100 that belongs to my dad, and left him with the orange Exploder. It returned home yesterday, and the diagnosis was: turned the wheels with the engine off, blew cap off and leaked fluid. Besides that, the only thing the guys at the garage could do was first replace the pump, then the rack, and then see if that fixed the problem. However, after they drove it all day, and had no problems with it at all, they said it was just from turning the wheels. So, false alarm. They said that they have a lot of explorers and other vehicles that do that when say, it won't run and they have to push it in or out of the garage. I did have the transmission fluid change with new screen and new filter, which should address the issue of the transmission slipping when it hasn't been driven for a while. The mechanic said that the transmission had already been serviced, but whoever did the work forgot to put the O rings back on the filter. I'm going to flush the coolant system myself here in a few weeks, and replace the green fluid with the red. Thanks again for the info. You were right nvbanker! I know you guys said not to buy it, but I did anyway. I did get the additional 3/36k bumper to bumper on it though. So far only used it once, but thought I'd be using it again this time. Time to head back to VA, and let Dad have his Toyota back. Man it gets good gas mileage though!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    We all wish you luck ID.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Is it typical for it to be EXTREMELY slow going in and even slower going out? Went by what the owner's manual said on how to do it and it was horrible to get it back out of 4LO, I was really worried it would be stuck in. It would flash and act like it was coming out and then go right back in, took 2-3 minutes of trying to get it out.

    Used it yesterday to pull a friend out of the ditch. I don't remember other vehicles being that slow going in and out of 4LO.

    2004 Explorer XLS Sport V6/Control Trac.....only have about 8600 miles on it.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well, only my 94 has the 4WD system you have, and it's been known to act that way, but it usually has something to do with one of the front wheels not releasing. That is usually caused by some hair brained thing we've done with the car, like try to climb Mount Everest on a rock bed or pull a Taurus back up a cliff. (Which may be what you did). It can also be though, a malfunctioning shift motor. I'd test it a lot, and if it does this consistently, then something is hanging up. If it clears up, you can be assured it will only do it to you again, when it's very inconvenient!
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    I think the 4WD system in the 94's was a lot different. They used crappy neoprene hubs that were famous for hanging up or just not working. I had a 94 Mazda B4000 (ford ranger) and a 94 Navajo, totally different systems than the control trac that my 04 Explorer has.

    It started this right off the get go yesterday, before we even tried pulling the truck, it just flat would not go into 4LO, of course once it was there it didn't want to come out.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    So how about now? Still doing it?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    have only really used 4lo once(stuck in a muddy field). pushing the 4x4 auto worked to disengage it. i would shut the vehicle off, and turn it back on. sort of like rebooting your computer.
    you shouldn't need to do that, though. can you duplicate?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Driven it since it did that. When we tried to take it out of 4LO the last time we did what the book said and after pushing 4Auto the 4LO button flashed for a minute and then it went right back on. Tried again, same thing, tried one more time and hit 4High and after 1-2 minutes it finally went into that, then pushed 4Auto and it was fine.

    Sure doesn't seem normal to me.......I might take it out tonight and play with it simply because my curiousity is getting the best of me. If its easily duplicated I'll swing by the dealer tomorrow when I'm in town and see what they say. I hate not being able to trust it about going into 4LO which we need to use on occation, makes me think twice about taking it certain places.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    i engage the 4x4 modes just for gp, once in a while. if it never used, maybe it binds up.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    4WD ALL the time on mine, whether it be 4Hi or 4LO, I'm always going offroad and finding things to get into.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well, we all want to know if this is chronic or not, so get to it, girl! Check it out and post~
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