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So, I went and changed the oil, and put a new filter on it - still no oil pressure.
Replaced the sender in hopes it was the sender - still no oil pressure. Now, its beginning to tick...
Is the oil pump hard to get to? its a 98 with a 2Liter.
Please help. Is the oil pump a common part to go? Or is it possible that I just have a plug somewhere?
Next-to-last tank of gas gave 29.2mpg. Last tank was 27.7. It does require premium.....
I'm thinking the gauge must be fine because the rough idle/stalling accompanies the low pressure. I'm not prepared to spend the time or money on an oil pump replacement, if that's what it turns out to be. Any alternative ideas to try before I relegate it to the scrappers?
Sam
But, right now it's at the ford dealership getting warrenty work on the aircondition. I have extended service plan so i don't know if maybe some of the engine problems will be with the warrenty.
but if anyone has an ideas, let me know please. I just want my truck to be fixed so i can move on.
They ping. This is what you are hearing. Higher grade of gas is about only thing to help with this.
But if you are not writting milages down and carefully calculating each fillup, your milage figures are useless.
Such as 'I get xxx miles on a tank of gas!'
My 94 4Liter with a cap got about 14 in town and the highest I ever saw was 18.5 on highway driving. I now have a Honda Ridgeline which gets 19-20mpg on the highway and is a much larger, 4wheel drive truck.
I've seen lots of postings where people say "My whatsit used to get 300 miles to a tank it now only gets 275. What is wrong with it?" This isn't a milage calculation.
You probably have two temperature sensors. One drives the guage on the dash.
The other talks to the computer and gives it the coolant temperature. This one has possibly failed. It is not telling the computer that the engine is cold. Under cold starting conditions, the computer increase the fuel amount injected (unriches the mixture). If this enrichment is not done, it will be hard to start.
This sensor will usually have black and yellow wires, twisted together, coming off it.
Or, your fuel pump may be failing and is not giving enough pressure to start. I would think this would cause other problem, like missing at high speed due to fuel starvation. A pressure guage on the schrader valve on the fuel injector line should give the pressure readings. I don't know exactly what they should be, but around 40lbs, I think, is usually in the range of a good working fuel pump. The fuel pump is inside the gas tank.
Or, you might just have a clogged fuel filter, if you have a lot of miles and it's never been changed. Or you got a tank of dirty gas.
I don't think the IAC valve has anything to do with starting, only idle speed.
Does it blow a lot of smoke after one of these hard starts? If so, it might be a leaky fuel injector, overloading a cylinder with gas.
The other day I was driving home, when I red line the engine when gear slipped out. Got home no problem. Next day I went to start it, it would not start.It would crank. I tried it for a bit. Finally got it to start, but running rough and missing,with white smoke from tail pipe. I am thinking Blown head gasket. I checked the plugs, they were fouled, so replaced them and wires. Truck started up no problem. running better. but still smokes. well 6 hours later I go to start it up. It wont start. just like before. Check Engine light is on. It Seems to start fine once the Temp is up some. Going to go by Autozone today and see what the computer says.
Bad temp sensor? Is the Head gasket Blown? Am I missing something? Please help?
Also it seems to have made a whole in my muffler. Needed to be replaced before all this happened.
And, I think all of them are limited to about 90mph, even the 4L V6's, where the injectors cut off. Ford doesn't want this to be a high speed vehicle.
Larryr
Good luck!
Minor customizer of Ford Rangers:
-Getting more HP out of your Ford Ranger.
*check 02 Sensor. (install new one regardless -stock O2 sensors are weak)
*new transmission (for under $1000 you can have a brand new -better than factory - rebuilt transmission INSTALLED - I can show you where and how)
*good oil
*good gas
*proper tire inflation
*proper tires (I suggest 15's for a bit better performance on a typical 2.3L Ford)
*lowering kit (my next project - will improve performance and MPG)
-All in all with my upgrades and modification tweeks, I have the two fastest 'off the shelf' parts Ford Rangers in town. The 90' ranger can actually squeal it's tires in 3rd gear, and pull away from even exotics like a low end Porsche...imagine the heads turning while my scrappy 90 Ford Ranger squeals its tires racing a Honda Civic..and winning. Top end though..I can only get the 90 Ford at top speed to about 85..the 96 Ford I can get now up to the top speed of about 92.
Also using a cover helps with performance and drag coefficients. I use a basic tonneau cover and I have a lot better stability in high winds than the Ford Rangers that don't (even if the back gate is open).
A thing about Ford Rangers and high speeds...not a good idea!
At about 90MPH, they tend to get skittish, due to oversteering probably.
At about 95..This gets to be dangerous...at 100MPG..it's not good...the truck tends to get very unstable. I do believe these trucks are specifically detuned so they don't exceed these numbers.
Word of caution..do not buy ANY gimmick modifications...like cheap sensors that claim 10HP gains and 12MPG increases..they ain't so...
I would think to check your catalytic converter. If you have never replaced it that could be clogged. Depending on where you live and the emmissions checks I would just get them removed since they tend to be rather expensive.
If you have fixed problem I would like to know what you did in order to fix it?
Good luck!
engine.
Other than that, it's a Ranger. I had a 94 Ranger and I loved my truck.
It had what I considered about normal maintenance things, maybe somewhat more than I would have liked but I still loved my truck.
It needed front disks and rotor, plugs and wires, radiator leaked and replaced, brake light switch replaced 3 or 4 times (why did this happen so much?), window regular, power window motor. Sold it at about 75,000 miles, it was in great shape, and a friend that is a car dealer got a lot of money for it. And a kid in Arizona got a great Christmas present from his Grandpa!
Other than that, it's a Ranger. I had a 94 Ranger and I loved my truck.
It had what I considered about normal maintenance things, maybe somewhat more than I would have liked but I still loved my truck.
It needed front disks and rotor, plugs and wires, radiator leaked and replaced, brake light switch replaced 3 or 4 times (why did this happen so much?), window regulator, power window motor. Sold it at about 75,000 miles, it was in great shape, and a friend that is a car dealer got a lot of money for it. And a kid in Arizona got a great Christmas present from his Grandpa!
I own a 94 STX super cab ranger with 250,000 miles at 212,000 i replaced the motor due to a bad valve ( wasn't going to pass up the deal on a whole motor with approx-70,000 miles on odometer,thing was this motor inside was real clean due to i had to replace a valve cover scince the retard at the auto-salvage place dented it. Now mind you I had once worked at Roush in design aid and pulled many of these out and in (never ran after) but the motor I purchased was out of a 93 I saw the vehiclei t came out of and it was slightly rough on the outside ,this is not a problem due to I like the power it now has , but originally when i bought the truck in 94 it wasn't a speed demon its 4x4 but now with this newer engine i can and i mean roast em at a dead dig, dry pavement i can bark em taking off and slight dusting of wet i just set this sucker side ways to no end, I was just wondering scince it does slightly lope and I did put in another ECM after I dropped the motor in ,the ECM is from someone from light truck , and it just rocks out but even with the stock ECM it was about the same but now I just get better shift points and better milage,,. could this motor i dropped in have been tweeked before I bought it because it runs more like a 5.0 than a 4.0...Just wondering even my wife noticed the power 1 day (I pissed her off 1 day and she stomped it when she left.i think she almost crapped her shorts)...I've always had this thought in back of my mind scince and so has my buddy who helped me drop this motor in.....
It started missing the other day, it is giving a code 171( bank 1 too lean) and says cylinder 2 is misfiring.
Is this a bad injector on the #2 cylinder?
I was going to switch the #2 injector to the other side and see if the problem followed till I saw you have to pull the entire intake off and with injectors being as expensive as they are I don't want to change it if I don't have too.
Any help with this is greatly appriciated.