Hi guys today after only 1500 miles my check engine light went on i called the service thay told me check the gaz cap because if its loose the light going on i check it's ok i call them back they schedul an appt for monday now this is my quastion i have just basic warranty should they provide me with loaner or not? Do you guys think its something serious? Did any budy report same problem in 2007 camry 4 cyl? 2oo7 camry 4 cyl made in japan your inputs are appreciated. have a nice weekend
Um, I don't know - I guess no one has felt like posting here for a day or so? There's nothing going on to prevent messages being posted, if that's what you were wondering.
hopefully, it's because the gas cap was not placed back on the filler properly... honda suggests you give their caps at least 3 clicks; don't know about toyota. is there something in your manual on the subject? did you read your manual?
the system attempts to pull a vaccum and reads the resultant pressure change. sometimes a bad filler cap, neck, tube, or perhaps evap solenoid or other can get in the way of a successful leak test.
they'll be able to tell what sub-system is responsible when they read the store code(s). i suggest you have them write down the codes they obtain for you for future reference.
it may take a while for them to diagnose. if you plan on waiting, you might want to bring a good book. at a minimum, they should give you a ride to your destination. doubtful you'd get a loaner, but there's no hurt in asking. would imagine it would depend on what is wrong and how much time needed to repair.
I can't really pin down the noise. Not sure if I would call it gear whine. It just seems everything is noiser. I was wondering if they removed sound insulation when replacing the transmission or something. Its hard to describe. It almost sounds like fluid or air noise or a combination of sorts. Even seems my engine pinging/knocking got louder:) Maybe I am just more aware now I hope... I am not too confident about the new transmission either. I had a slight flare coming up my "test" hill that my old transmission seemed to flare regularly on. It was minor compared to the old but something to keep an eye on. It also seems the new transmission is not as responsive and also is heavy on engine breaking going down hills. I don't think they have thr transmissions solid yet. I'll probably drive it this week and see how it goes but I am afraid I will be taking it back but I am not confident it can/will be fixed. Seems other are reporting similar issues with second transmissions on the site. :lemon:
Does anyone have problems playing WMA files with the JBL 6-CD system?
I recently ripped many WMA audio files onto a CD. The disk have 10 folders; each folder has 20 songs or so. Total size of all files is 400MB. The first 5 folders played perfectly fine. The system frequently was not able to play many of the files in the next 3 folders. (E.g., the music would stop for one second, then continue. Sometimes, I got "Error-1".) If I recalled correctly, the last two folders were OK as well.
if they are all good as you say then may just be a bad burn. Burn another to see if that one works ok. If it don't and all are ok but the one folder try it on your computer. I have had just one song mess up a whole folder and even the whole disk before. You may even want to check out the first CD on your computer to see if all is well.
I got the same error message on my MP3 CD. However, the whole CD did not work and not just some folders. Did you use CD-R or CD-RW? anyway try ejecting the CD a couple of times, its like restarting your computer it worked for me, this usually happens when I use my MP3 CD when I parked in direct sunlight and the dash is warm. It never happens on any original CDs I bought, but only on the ones I burned in my PC.
another reason some CD brands work better than others, but don't know if this is still a factor as it was a few years ago. Also make sure you aren't putting stickers/labels on the Cd's. Use just a sharpie pen to write on them.
Hello,I read somewhere before that when the TSB trans axle was replaced that sometimes there is a gasket that is left out accidently. I also read this before too. On the firewall, there's passages for cables/electronics/shafts to pass through into the engine compartment. In the rare few, sometimes do to service, othertimes to poor fitment, there's supposed to be a grommet that insulates the sound... however, can sometimes be poorly fitted or missing completely. Both of which would lead to excessive engine noise to come through into the passenger compartment. Keep us informed please, thanks
As far as a loaner, most places will give you one if the repair takes longer than an hour or two. You can always "press" them for a loaner too because of your inconvenienece. It really depends on the dealership though. I am always confident and nice whenever I have to go in to the dealer and always get one.
I would also suggest re-burning the disc. I have burnt data discs and mp3 discs and they both work fine on my JBL 6-disc. Also, I agree with another member who said not to put labels or stickers on the cd's because that is sometimes the problem.
Some of your music files may be corrupted and therefore won't play.
I am having the same exact problem. My wife and I have brought the car in 5 times now and each time they never fix the problem. The vibration seems to just get worse. Have you gotten the problem fixed or are there any legal ramifications for Toyota in this case? It is so annoying how someone can pay close to 20k for a car that vibrates constantly and then for the technicians to say it is "normal or that they don't feel the vibration."
I am having the same exact problem. My wife and I have brought the car in 5 times now and each time they never fix the problem. The vibration seems to just get worse. Have you gotten the problem fixed or are there any legal ramifications for Toyota in this case? It is so annoying how someone can pay close to 20k for a car that vibrates constantly and then for the technicians to say it is "normal or that they don't feel the vibration."
Well took my Camry 2007 SLE in for first service and tolk them that I still had the rough downshifting problem at 10mph. Now they are saying that a new PCM will be required. Does this sound right to everyone? Anyone had their PCM replaced?
interesting report. who knows? but plausible, and potentially helpful to others.
if toyota says it needs it, i'd do it, as it's possible the PCM has the latest flash (program), and yet electrically some of it's inputs or outputs are not handling the devices (sensors or solenoids) that are connected to it properly.
all it takes is for a intermittent connection, perhaps a cold solder joint or electrical "trace" with a hair-line fracture on the PCM circuit board that changes with either mechanical vibration or temperature to cause issues.
if you proceed (and i presume you will) please report back if that fixes your issue as it would suggest the problem for some may exist with the PCM. of course, it's replacement would suggest something for techs to research and try in cases like yours.
Maybe you have a new problem not related to the TSB or a parts malfunction related to the TSB.
Take it to the dealer and demonstrate the problem.
If your VIN falls out of the TSB range, I'm betting they won't apply the TSB because Toyota won't pay them and you could hold them liable for any problem that arises.
Well correct, but his ECM/TCM computers can be reflashed. Could be something got messed up with the initial load. His initial load should have been the corrected software, since the mfg was post-TSB correction.
If it was mine, I'd take it to the dealers explaining your vehicles symptoms. Tell them you found this TSB online, but appears your VIN should have already had it applied. The dealership should figure it all out and can reflash with the original corrected load as a way of diagnostics. It's quick and simple, only takes about 1/2 hour.
I too have that "buzzing" sound from the brake. Are we talking about the same thing?
Mine is coming from the brake pedal from *inside* the car. It almost sounds like an electrical static noise. If we are talking about the same thing, please let me know what the diagnostic is and whether there is a repair. Thanks.
Well the dealer ended up telling me that Toyota knows but says it's just normal in the cold. It's basically a way for them to save money and time. My old camry doesn't make that noise in the brakes and it's a 1994. So why should this 2007 Camry make one? He told me that there's a ball in the vaccuum of the brake that moves as you press the brake, and as a result it makes that buzzing sound. He said there's no solution, but I'm taking it to another dealership to get it checked out because they actually know how to fix a problem rather than say there's no solution. If I get it fixed I'll tell you. Just email me at cheema22@msn.com if you got any problems and stuff and keep me posted as well.
Well I was reading some of the messages and I saw that they were saying that this was the ABS self test. Wrong! I spoke with the service tech, he said it's definitely not the ABS, as I told you earlier that it's the ball.
Thanks for the responses. My sound is coming from the brake *pedal* area in the driver side footwell. I doesn't matter if it is cold or warm. It is an irritating sound... very faint, but continuously (every few seconds) buzzes. It sounds more like static.
If I turn off the engine and move the brake pedal, the buzz is not there. As soon as the engine is running, the buzz returns. Sometimes, I don't even have to move the pedal, and it just buzzes by itself (very faintly, but audible).
does it do it with the vehicle idling? if so, and you'd want to exercise some caution here: maybe put the vehicle in park, apply the hand-brake, open the car door and move the seat back as far as it goes. now, being very cautious, try to localize the sound with your ears, but not while sitting in the seat.
could be some form of relay problem (maybe an intermittent relay coil or a loose wire harness to same). could be mechanical vibration.
Thanks for the suggestions. I already did that a while back, and the results were:
- Yes, I put my ear close to the brake pedal and it was very easy to hear the buzzing sound from there.
- Yes, the noise is definately coming from the brake pedal (usually when it moves up OR down)
- No, it is NOT an mechanical noise. If I turn off the engine, and move the pedal around by hand, there is no buzz sound. Turn the engine back on, the buzz returns.
- The buzz sound is there parked, or in motion, but mostly only when the brake pedal is applied or released.
Hi, I am from the Philly area. Just got my 07 LE Camry a few weeks back. The gas mileage has been porr, around 18 mpg. But this is 100% city driving. is this normal or shld I expect around 20-22.
Not sure if any TSB is out there regarding this. Other than this, I do experience a sluggishness in acceleration sometimes.
I have a 2007 Camry 4 cyl. SE and it also is getting very poor mileage...about what you are getting in city driving plus some highway driving...75%/25%. sluggishness in acceleration has been a issue for me as well. I was told it is because the throttle is computer driven and there is a natural delay. It has gotten better since it was new but still does become sluggish at times.
I also got the same "Drive-by-wire" theory. I was explained that it learns on how u press the pedal. So I said.. Ok. All right. So I drive slowly and really lush foot on pedal nicely. My wife does it the absolute other way. She literally puts her body on the pedal. So now the car has two drivers.
Next time, when I drive liek her, the car will think I am my wife, and pretty sure that is a problem.
Spring has sprung... and when it's above 70 degrees outside, the dash of my 07 Camry rattles much, much less than it does otherwise! I've never been so happy for warm weather in my life! :surprise:
If you look in my profile you can check to see is one of the TSB's applies to you. It is 5 pages long and is posted in my profile. It is TSB EG056R-06, which is a recalbration of the ECT.
I think the other TSB is TC010-06 or TC015-06, to replace a solenoid.
After having both performed my mpg went from around 18-21mpg to 25-28mpg. I have a heavy foot......so I assume if I was easier on the gas I would be well above 30mpg. Also, the car drives much smoother and accelerates better.
Is there definitively a TSB out for the dash rattles? A few months ago, I took it to the dealer I bought my car from... they drove it around, gave it back to me, and indicated they "called California and California told them any rattles were normal." K.
The rattles are not normal. IT sounds to me that your dealer is providing inferior customer service (in my opinion). I would suggest going to another Toyota dealership because any Toyota dealer can do the warranty work.
I do not believe that particular TSB pertains to you. This one is for earlier build dates in 2006. My VIN# starts with a J, because it was "built in Japan."
If there is a new TSB you are going to have to ask your dealer and "hope" they are honest with you. I guess I am lucky that my dealer has been very nice and has provided excellent customer service.
I took my vehicle in with the TSB report in my hand. We discussed everything and with no argument they performed the TSB's. They even showed me their computers and a list of TSB's for all Toyotas.
You will have to register at alldata.com or tundrasolutions.com to see the list of TSB's and what they pertain to. Or, see if they can show you at the dealer.
Yes there is, but I don't know the TSB #. It simply involves romving the dash and installing an "anti-rattle kit" consisting primarily of 3M sound isolating felt tape, and the removal of some clips. I've had this done as well, since when the weather droped to -10C or lower, I'd have a "ticking" sound coming mainly from the lower A pillar/windshield/dash/speaker area for about 10 to 15 minutes. When the car was warmed up.... the tick would go away. Anyways... yes, they did apply a TSB and made a world a difference. Still very happy with this daily driver.
Then that means we both have the same exact problem. I went to prestige toyota and they told me that the ball rattles in the vaccuum of the brake. I also went there to get my shockers fixed, it felt as if the shockers hit the trunk or some metal on certain bumps. They were unable to fix both of them and acted like they did something to the shockers. So I made an appointment with Hackensack, and they ordered pads for the shockers and I have to reschedule and do a test drive for the brake sound, so I'll let you know how it goes. By the way, what's ur email so we can get directly talk.
Hi all: Wednesday I will be taking my Camry to the selling dealer for the 5,000 mile oil & filter service. The vehicle will have about 4,500 miles on it at the time of the service. I am preparing for an extended road trip, and as such, I will go over the 5,000 mile bench mark while on this trip, so with this fact in mind, I decided to have the service performed prior to leaving! My dealer sent me a "discount oil and filter coupon" for:--- ($20.00). I was going to use my "pre-paid Toyota service coupon," but since I was given this discout coupon, I will use the Toyota pre-paid Coupon at the 7,500 mile oil & filter service. The vehicle is still running strong! There are no problems with the transmission. I love the comfort of this vehicle! Too bad Honda cannot make seats in the Accord as comfortable as the Camry. While I love this vehicle, in 2010 I will take another look at the Honda Accord to see if they have improved their seats in terms of comfort. One of the biggest advantages of the Camry is the fact that there is NO BLIND SPOT in the driver's outside mirror. This vehicle is a pleasure to drive. The Accord had a MAJOR BLIND SPOT in the driver's outside mirrior, and on a LONG road trip this was VERY STRESSFUL and ANNOYING! Moving from lane to lane at high speeds was NOT smooth! Honda had a GREAT body design in the 2000 Accord, but when they went to the new body design, they lost seat comfort and they created blind spots! Best regards. ---- Dwayne :shades:
My email is supergoop@hotmail.com. Thanks for all the feedback. Hope you find a fix for the brake pedal noise. They shouldn't really need to do a test drive, because it is there if the engine is running, and the brake pedal moves.
I brought my car to the dealer. They went for the test drive and said there is nothing wrong with my car. Also, I show them the TSB EG056R-06 but they said my VIN# doesn't fall into the range on the TSB.
I wasn't at the dealer at the time they test it. though I told them that the hestitation doesn't occur frequently and it not that easy to duplicate it. I also told them about the cruise control which is not alble to hold the speed, though they said nothing wrong with it either.
What should I do? should I bring to a different dealer?
Did any one able to have the TSB apply even though their VIN# doesn't fall into the range show in the TSB?
The engine control module (ECM) and transmission control module (TCM), have software in them which controls the operations of the engine and transmission. There was an old original load of the software when the car was first released, which had the symptoms of hesitiation and not enough power to for the cruise control to hold speed without downshifting. Toyota studied the problem, and released a TSB, which for this problem was a new software load.
What the dealer is telling you, is that when your car was made, it was AFTER they made the production line change and so your car should already have the new software in it. The TSB then as it is written on the paper, does not apply to your car since you don't have the 'old' software.
However, they symptoms you are experiencing are the same. So if it were my car, I would go back to the dealer explaining the symptoms you are having, and at a minimum ask them to re-load the ECM and TCM computers with the software you are supposed to have. Who knows what might have happened, perhaps the original software was never loaded correctly, perhaps the computer has a problem and isn't reading/performing the code correctly, perhaps one or a number of sensors are malfunctioning.
The dealer appears to be 'technically' correct, in that the TSB doesn't apply to your VIN #. However they don't appear to be taking it to the next step to say, okay....what do we need to do to fix the vehicle.
If it was me I'd take it back to the dealer (I assume you bought it there), to have them take another look at it. Suggest to them a computer reload if you need to, if they don't know what to do. You might also do what one other creative poster did which is to take a video of the symtoms. Luckily the TSB fixed my cruise/shifting problem completely, or that would have been my next approach. I could easily have set up a video camera and take it out on the interstate. Within 5 mins on relatively level terrain the thing would be downshifting horribly, many times directly from 5th lockup to 3rd.
If you don't get resolution from your original dealer, if you sense they aren't technically literate, then I'd consider taking it to another dealer and opening a case number with Toyota.
Comments
Do you guys think its something serious?
Did any budy report same problem in 2007 camry 4 cyl?
2oo7 camry 4 cyl made in japan
your inputs are appreciated.
have a nice weekend
the system attempts to pull a vaccum and reads the resultant pressure change. sometimes a bad filler cap, neck, tube, or perhaps evap solenoid or other can get in the way of a successful leak test.
they'll be able to tell what sub-system is responsible when they read the store code(s). i suggest you have them write down the codes they obtain for you for future reference.
it may take a while for them to diagnose. if you plan on waiting, you might want to bring a good book. at a minimum, they should give you a ride to your destination. doubtful you'd get a loaner, but there's no hurt in asking. would imagine it would depend on what is wrong and how much time needed to repair.
good luck.
I just had my transmission replaced and was experiencing what sounded like wind or fluid noise. Did they tell you what they fixed?
Thanks in advance!
Max 255 files (songs) per disc.
>>>>>>
Hello,
Does anyone have problems playing WMA files with the JBL 6-CD system?
I recently ripped many WMA audio files onto a CD.
The disk have 10 folders; each folder has 20 songs or so.
Total size of all files is 400MB.
The first 5 folders played perfectly fine.
The system frequently was not able to play many of the files in the next 3 folders. (E.g., the music would stop for one second, then continue. Sometimes, I got "Error-1".)
If I recalled correctly, the last two folders were OK as well.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
CC.
I also read this before too.
On the firewall, there's passages for cables/electronics/shafts to pass through into the engine compartment. In the rare few, sometimes do to service, othertimes to poor fitment, there's supposed to be a grommet that insulates the sound... however, can sometimes be poorly fitted or missing completely. Both of which would lead to excessive engine noise to come through into the passenger compartment.
Keep us informed please, thanks
I also suggest taking a copy of the TSB. If you click on my name (my profile), I posted a copy of the TSB.
My dealer kept the other TSB....I think it was TSB TC 010-06.
At your dealer they are able to pull up all of the TSB's and should be able to show you them on the computer screen as well. My dealer did.
Good luck.
I would also suggest re-burning the disc. I have burnt data discs and mp3 discs and they both work fine on my JBL 6-disc. Also, I agree with another member who said not to put labels or stickers on the cd's because that is sometimes the problem.
Some of your music files may be corrupted and therefore won't play.
Not much help........but good luck!
The problem seemed to go away after I burned the disc again. This time I only put 255 or fewer songs in each disc.
(The old disc played fine in a PC).
Can I still get my dealer to perform the TSBs...and more importantly will they even make a difference?
if toyota says it needs it, i'd do it, as it's possible the PCM has the latest flash (program), and yet electrically some of it's inputs or outputs are not handling the devices (sensors or solenoids) that are connected to it properly.
all it takes is for a intermittent connection, perhaps a cold solder joint or electrical "trace" with a hair-line fracture on the PCM circuit board that changes with either mechanical vibration or temperature to cause issues.
if you proceed (and i presume you will) please report back if that fixes your issue as it would suggest the problem for some may exist with the PCM. of course, it's replacement would suggest something for techs to research and try in cases like yours.
Take it to the dealer and demonstrate the problem.
If your VIN falls out of the TSB range, I'm betting they won't apply the TSB because Toyota won't pay them and you could hold them liable for any problem that arises.
If it was mine, I'd take it to the dealers explaining your vehicles symptoms. Tell them you found this TSB online, but appears your VIN should have already had it applied. The dealership should figure it all out and can reflash with the original corrected load as a way of diagnostics. It's quick and simple, only takes about 1/2 hour.
Mine is coming from the brake pedal from *inside* the car. It almost sounds like an electrical static noise. If we are talking about the same thing, please let me know what the diagnostic is and whether there is a repair. Thanks.
If I turn off the engine and move the brake pedal, the buzz is not there. As soon as the engine is running, the buzz returns. Sometimes, I don't even have to move the pedal, and it just buzzes by itself (very faintly, but audible).
could be some form of relay problem (maybe an intermittent relay coil or a loose wire harness to same). could be mechanical vibration.
- Yes, I put my ear close to the brake pedal and it was very easy to hear the buzzing sound from there.
- Yes, the noise is definately coming from the brake pedal (usually when it moves up OR down)
- No, it is NOT an mechanical noise. If I turn off the engine, and move the pedal around by hand, there is no buzz sound. Turn the engine back on, the buzz returns.
- The buzz sound is there parked, or in motion, but mostly only when the brake pedal is applied or released.
Not sure if any TSB is out there regarding this. Other than this, I do experience a sluggishness in acceleration sometimes.
Next time, when I drive liek her, the car will think I am my wife, and pretty sure that is a problem.
THE ANSWER -- DUMB FACES!!!!
I think the other TSB is TC010-06 or TC015-06, to replace a solenoid.
After having both performed my mpg went from around 18-21mpg to 25-28mpg. I have a heavy foot......so I assume if I was easier on the gas I would be well above 30mpg. Also, the car drives much smoother and accelerates better.
Any more details on what your dealer did to fix the dash rattle?
Thanks
Good luck.
My VIN# starts with a J, because it was "built in Japan."
If there is a new TSB you are going to have to ask your dealer and "hope" they are honest with you. I guess I am lucky that my dealer has been very nice and has provided excellent customer service.
I took my vehicle in with the TSB report in my hand. We discussed everything and with no argument they performed the TSB's. They even showed me their computers and a list of TSB's for all Toyotas.
You will have to register at alldata.com or tundrasolutions.com to see the list of TSB's and what they pertain to. Or, see if they can show you at the dealer.
Good luck.
Wednesday I will be taking my Camry to the selling dealer for the 5,000 mile oil & filter service. The vehicle will have about 4,500 miles on it at the time of the service. I am preparing for an extended road trip, and as such, I will go over the 5,000 mile bench mark while on this trip, so with this fact in mind, I decided to have the service performed prior to leaving! My dealer sent me a "discount oil and filter coupon" for:--- ($20.00). I was going to use my "pre-paid Toyota service coupon," but since I was given this discout coupon, I will use the Toyota pre-paid Coupon at the 7,500 mile oil & filter service.
The vehicle is still running strong! There are no problems with the transmission. I love the comfort of this vehicle! Too bad Honda cannot make seats in the Accord as comfortable as the Camry. While I love this vehicle, in 2010 I will take another look at the Honda Accord to see if they have improved their seats in terms of comfort.
One of the biggest advantages of the Camry is the fact that there is NO BLIND SPOT in the driver's outside mirror. This vehicle is a pleasure to drive. The Accord had a MAJOR BLIND SPOT in the driver's outside mirrior, and on a LONG road trip this was VERY STRESSFUL and ANNOYING! Moving from lane to lane at high speeds was NOT smooth! Honda had a GREAT body design in the 2000 Accord, but when they went to the new body design, they lost seat comfort and they created blind spots!
Best regards. ---- Dwayne :shades:
Thanks,
I brought my car to the dealer. They went for the test drive and said there is nothing wrong with my car. Also, I show them the TSB EG056R-06 but they said my VIN# doesn't fall into the range on the TSB.
I wasn't at the dealer at the time they test it. though I told them that the hestitation doesn't occur frequently and it not that easy to duplicate it. I also told them about the cruise control which is not alble to hold the speed, though they said nothing wrong with it either.
What should I do? should I bring to a different dealer?
Did any one able to have the TSB apply even though their VIN# doesn't fall into the range show in the TSB?
let me know if you have any ideas
Thanks alot
What the dealer is telling you, is that when your car was made, it was AFTER they made the production line change and so your car should already have the new software in it. The TSB then as it is written on the paper, does not apply to your car since you don't have the 'old' software.
However, they symptoms you are experiencing are the same. So if it were my car, I would go back to the dealer explaining the symptoms you are having, and at a minimum ask them to re-load the ECM and TCM computers with the software you are supposed to have. Who knows what might have happened, perhaps the original software was never loaded correctly, perhaps the computer has a problem and isn't reading/performing the code correctly, perhaps one or a number of sensors are malfunctioning.
The dealer appears to be 'technically' correct, in that the TSB doesn't apply to your VIN #. However they don't appear to be taking it to the next step to say, okay....what do we need to do to fix the vehicle.
If it was me I'd take it back to the dealer (I assume you bought it there), to have them take another look at it. Suggest to them a computer reload if you need to, if they don't know what to do. You might also do what one other creative poster did which is to take a video of the symtoms. Luckily the TSB fixed my cruise/shifting problem completely, or that would have been my next approach. I could easily have set up a video camera and take it out on the interstate. Within 5 mins on relatively level terrain the thing would be downshifting horribly, many times directly from 5th lockup to 3rd.
If you don't get resolution from your original dealer, if you sense they aren't technically literate, then I'd consider taking it to another dealer and opening a case number with Toyota.