Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options

2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

1…8586889091…106

Comments

  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I don't think your mileage is out of line if it's mostly in-town driving.
  • atb2atb2 Member Posts: 30
    210delray: respectfully, if you think 15-16 mpg city is acceptable for a 4 cyl it leads me to believe your mileage might be in that same range - I hope not! I would be plenty upset if my '09 I4 auto used that much fuel. Even in-town running the a/c the lowest I have gotten is 24.3 mpg and have gotten as high as 34.7 mpg on a road trip at a constant 70mph.

    4ruth: those mpg numbers are unacceptable by any standard. I would continue looking for solutions of which are beyond my expertise. (May be why the car was traded in....just a thought.) Maybe some of the other gurus can weigh in on Post #4661.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I would first have the dealership check whether the TSB for engine and transmission performance have been applied to this vehicle. When the first one came out early in 07, a TSB directly effected engine performance and also helped with the shifting. That was then superceded over time by two others.

    Secondly I would also check tire pressure inflation, I run 2 lbs over the typical pressure....make sure you are on the high side of pressure as opposed to the low side.

    Hard to imagine that you would have a dragging parking brake, they normally get looser over time as opposed to tighter, but I guess if someone mis-adjusted it that might add some drag.

    I'd be switching fuel stations, to see if that had any effect. I run the cheapest available regular, but have two regular stations I typically hit which I've never had a problem with their fuel in 15 years.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I was responding to nmarcel, not 4ruth. I think 4ruth's gas mileage is too low.

    Personally, my 04 Camry 4-cyl 4A ranges from 23 mpg in town to 38 mpg on the highway (speed no more than 65 mph).

    My '05 Camry 4-cyl 5A ranges from 20 mpg to about 35 mpg, in other words, 3 mpg less.
  • atb2atb2 Member Posts: 30
    I was responding to nmarcel, not 4ruth. I think 4ruth's gas mileage is too low.

    Point taken. Sorry about the errant reply.
  • 4ruth4ruth Member Posts: 11
    I have now taken the car into both Toyota and to the Honda dealer where I bought it and both are saying that getting 15 in town and 22 on the road using cruise control is acceptable and that nothing is wrong. What do I do now?

    I have written the owner of the place I bought it and told him how the salesman looked me in the eye and lied about the mileage and about where the car had come from (he told me he was getting it that afternoon from the first owner who had bought "up" to a larger fancier car and was bringing it in for a trade in. I asked for the car fax but did not actually get it before I had signed most of the papers. Then I saw that it had come from an auction...and was given a song and dance about how that was simply how it had been transported to Portland. I can't believe how damned naive I was.
    Crying into the snow in Portland, Or. :mad:
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    Both dealers have more crap than the christmas goose. Go back to the toyota dealer and ask for a print out of all warranty repairs done to the vehicle. They have the ability to give you this. Toyota provides them a web site to check cars for delivery date and such. It also provides what warranty repairs were made and at which toyota dealer. A lot of things can go into poor fuel mileage. One thing I would check is that you have the transmission in the "D" position and not in four. If this is the case and you have been driving in the 4th gear your gas mileage will really suck.(I say this not as an insult, but a point to check). If you would like you can send me an e-mail at dssi1199@comcast.net and I will be happy to go over the problem with you.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    As indicated before, have the dealership put on the Technical Service Bulletins for Engine and Transmission performance?
  • modivomodivo Member Posts: 5
    Hello,

    We have a 2007 4 cylinder Camry with 12,000 miles on it that completely stopped working while I was driving it tonight.

    We previously had a transmission problem fixed once and it started hesitating again recently.

    Today there was a "!" on the dash that indicated low pressure in one or more tires. When driving to the station to add air, after approximately 4 minutes when stopping, the brakes make a scraping sound and the "ABS" light came on, along with battery light and check engine light on the dashboard.

    I pulled off in a safe location as soon as I could and turned the engine off, thinking maybe something would reset. It would not start up until I let the car sit for awhile.

    After I finally got the car started again and w/i minutes while I was driving, I lost acceleration, the headlights went out, the dash lights blinked and went out, so I put the car in neutral and coasted to a safe location and called a tow truck. The flashers wouldn't work either.

    One other time in July, we were driving on the freeway at night and our car lost power, but after we pulled over and stopped, it started right back up and drove w/o any problems until tonight. At that time, no warning lights went on and the dash & headlights stayed on.

    Does anybody out there have any ideas what is happening?

    After many years of wanting, I finally got my new car and it broke down before my husband's 1984 Celica that has well over 200,000 miles on it! :^(

    I would appreciate any ideas or comments please!

    Mo
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    First thing that comes to mind for the brakes, is that one of more of your pads are worn down and need replaced. I would assume it's the fronts, but hard to imagine that it needs it with only 12K miles. We have about 30K on ours (same vehicle) on original pads. It may be a lot of short city driving trips, or you are driving with foot resting on brake pedal, or something is hanging up in the brake system....but 12K miles is a short time to have to replace front brake pads.

    Secondly, for your other problem I would look first at a basic electrical failure in the battery (perhaps a bad cell), the cabling (loose connectors/connections, or corroded connectors), a defective alternator, main power fuse, or ignition switch/relay. There are other possibilities, but that is where I'd be looking first.

    A competent dealership should be able to find and resolve these issues for you.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I would think that a low tire pressure indication would automatically cause the ABS/VSC/TC systems to be disabled.

    But since you didn't get an ABS failure until later brake application then possibly not.

    In which case even very light brake pedal pressure would result in ABS activation. If you have VSC or/and TC those features may have contributed to the ABS pumpmotor being used, with a low tire, especially a front tire on a FWD vehicle.

    And that sucker, ABS pumpmotor, draws a LOT of electrical current. If we assume the battery terminals hadn't been cleaned and burnished for quite some time that could have very well been the causative factor, HIGH current load, the battery MUST supply a substantial level of that current, and the corroded battery terminals cannot handle that load level.

    Bottom line...

    You are about to be sold a new battery, or worse (more $$$) when cleaning the battery terminals would in all probability suffice.
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    I would say the battery is going dead.
  • modivomodivo Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your replies. I had the car towed to the dealer and will hopefully have some news tomorrow.

    This is not something the dealer has seen very often. It could be a number of things. They stated that if the battery completely failed then they would be unable to get any codes about the problem(s).

    I do not ride the brakes when I drive, but do a lot of city driving. The dealer said they are getting a lot of low tire warnings because of the cold weather and they didn't think that was related to the total power failure since that warning light has consistently stayed on.

    If it was as minor as needing the battery replaced, that would be wonderful, but yet very scary if that's what happens when the battery fails! It was frightening losing all power and lights late at night like that! I was thankful that I could stop in a lighted residential area rather than a dark, desolate road! I sure am thankful for cell phones-

    Mo
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    Toyota original equipment batteries are not very good. Having worked for Toyota I've seen the exact same failure several times. I'll be surprised if its not the battery.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..seen the exact same..."

    And as an employee did you clean and burnish the battery connections first or did you simply sell the customer a new battery..??
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    About 95% of them failed while still under warranty. Cust. was given a new battery and terminal post were cleaned as a courtesy.
  • faz2faz2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have a 07 camry LE bought in 2006 has 16,500 miles on it and everything was fine until probably like couple of months ago i started having all these problems like whole interior the dashboard, seatbelt, door panels.windows everything is squeaking or vibrates, the driver seat moves, brakes squeak in cold, engine idles loud sometimes and i also get bad mileage about 18mpg in full city driving and just two days ago i notices while going at 45+ when i brake hard and the car downshifts when at 25mph mark it would jerk i tried it out a few times and most times it didn't happen but sometimes it did usually whenever you would break hard. I think i also might have some suspension problems too it makes some noise times from the rear now i am not sure if the noise is from the rear seats or where the speakers and things are because there is so much noise as it is from the intterior so it is hard to tell the difference sometimes. anyway i need to take it to the dealer i know there are tSB's for all things i mentioned. anyone else has had noises coming from suspension?

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Hard to hear those sounds thru the internet, my speakers aren't that good. You've got a broad mixture of symptoms.

    I'd suggest taking it back to the dealership and take the service adviser on a ride with you so he can hear himself the problems that you want to identify.
  • modivomodivo Member Posts: 5
    Had it towed to the dealer and it was the alternator.
  • atb2atb2 Member Posts: 30
    it was the alternator

    I also suspected the batt. From what I've read premature alternator failures are rare (or maybe it was just a loose connection and the dealer changed it out to settle the issue).
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    one of the diodes probably shorted out, which would do two things:

    - for that diode, it would not charge the battery, alternator would have reduced charging amperage capacity
    - provide a short to drain the battery, when the vehicle was off.
  • jocooljocool Member Posts: 2
    Is anyone else having problems with Toyota Camry's (2007) VSC? The VSC, Check Engine and traction lights came on (28K miles) and I had it serviced by the dealer. They claimed it was a sensor, and while they paid for that under warranty, I had to replace the throttle body and clean the injectors on my nickel. Two days later, same issue. Dealer now claims it was to due a skid on the ice (which did not occur) and that "they" will need to reset it. Sounds fishy. Based on posts I've seen for other Toyotas of various ages, seems like they have a design problem. Toyota quality - is it a myth??
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Have not had any VSC problems. What was(is) the error code in the computer?
  • modivomodivo Member Posts: 5
    In my case, the dealer said the alternator had completely failed but the battery was in good shape.

    So far the car is working fine and I hope it continues... :surprise:

    Thank you for your thoughts and advice everyone. I really appreciate the time you took to help me with my car problems!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    When you have a CEL the VSC and TC systems are automtically disabled by default, FACTORY default. Fix the engine problem causing the CEL and the VSC/TC fault(s) will go away.

    CEL can result in something as simple as a gas cap left untightened or even a defective gas cap.

    "..a skid on ice.." Sometimes the only awareness of the driver to a VSC or TC activation will be the brief, TOO DAMMED BRIEF, soft "beep" from the instrument panel for the SHORT duration of the VSC or TC event.

    I have encountered VSC (or was it TC..??) activation simply turning right under acceleration through a small water puddle. No physical sensation just a quiet/soft SHORT beep.

    The dealer SCAMMED you on the throttle body and injector cleaning, ask for your money back.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Or...

    The factory just got scammed by the dealer for the LABOR cost of replacing a perfectly GOOD alternator, probably to be soon used for the next SCAM.

    The dealer makes no "serious" money if they just fix the problem by cleaning/burnishing/tightening the battery terminals.
  • jocooljocool Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I did figure I've been scammed. The problem is the work done did not fix the lights, they came on again two days later.

    We've escalated this past the dealership. The "Toyota Rep" mentioned the gas cap, which is also not the cause. I "quote" the Toyota rep, because her office is based at the dealership, sounds like Toyota has an even bigger scam going - they make you think a mfg's rep is helping you with the dealer's issues, but they're all out to run you around in circles until you give up.

    We've asked for the money back (note that the "throttle body" is covered by warranty according to the owner's manual), but that isn't getting us anywhere. I believe Toyota has a long standing design problem with the VSC system that they won't own up to.

    Get this, the rep says the car is "safe to drive". Then why have a warning on this "system" if the failure is meaningless? The book says get the problem checked out right away, and the rep says it is "OK to drive" and they won't have a loaner for us for a week.
  • awisniewskiawisniewski Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1998 Camry with 144k miles on it. Since I purchased it at around 110k miles, the front end has made a sort of clunk clunk or rattle when going over speed bumps, pot holes, etc , but only when its cold outside. In the summer the noise is not there at all, but below 50F then the noise returns. I do not notice anything feeling terribly wrong with the suspension as when breaking or turning, the car doesn't seem to loose control or slump. I read on the forums here that it could be many things causing this noise. It seems to be a light noise not very mechanical, it almost sounds plasticy.

    So it seems it could be the struts, the mounts, the insulators, bearings, or something else? If I push down on the hood above say one wheel it makes that noise, clunky and plastic sounding. I think its the struts but I'm not sure.

    Looking at this parts break down schematic I'm not exactly sure what could cause
    this noise.
    http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=2- - - 14329&chapter=&Sectionids=19,2512&groupid=2523&subgroupid=4154&componentid=10942- - - &make=34&model=Camry&year=2007&graphicID=8522330&callout=13&catalogid=3&displayC- - - atalogid=0

    Should I just go ahead and replace the struts myself or be concerned
    that something else is causing the problem? As far as I know they are the original struts?? I see nothing leaking from them by the way.

    Alex
    1998 Camry LE, 4cyl
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    I would suspect the problem is in the strut mounts. They are made of hard rubber so thats why you won't hear them in warmer weather. The dealer could look at them and tell you. Struts don't usually wear out unless they leak. Just my opinion.
  • adamw812adamw812 Member Posts: 32
    Check and Replace the Front Stabilizer Bushings. I had a Honda that did the same thing, made noise only when cold. After replacing the stabilizer bushings, noise was gone!
  • spikehsvspikehsv Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 XLE V6 with Nav and had a similar problem with the dashboard making noise very close to the windshield area. Sometimes it was on the driver side sometimes the passenger side and then other times in the center. It was very annoying. It seemed to be worse in cold weather. I finally read about the TSB NV008-07 listed in this forum (thank you whom ever posted this) and inquired at the dealership. They had heard of the issue and I took my car in to have it fixed. I'm happy to say that the work did the trick and the noise is no longer there. The mechanic told me that it was a generic TSB concerning the dashboard/windshield noise and it gave them guidance on the issue. If you have this noise problem I would recommend that you have it fixed. I'm glad I did.
  • spikehsvspikehsv Member Posts: 3
    I had the dealer fix my 2007 XLE and the noise is gone! I'm glad I had the TSB work accomplished.
  • tony108tony108 Member Posts: 16
    hello foxwood21,

    I'm having the same problems as your 2007 camry 4cyl. Mine has 46,000 right now and I started using mobil 1 5-20 since it was 32,000 miles. Have you resolved this issue with the dealer? Did they fix your noisy engine?

    thanks,

    tony
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    What you are really up against is a political problem: Toyota engines, and Mazda RX-8s, and many other very efficient engines, have traditionally given best performance and greatest longevity when using heavier viscosity oil grades. But some politicians, in their zeal to conserve every last drop of fuel on this planet, found out that fuel economy can be increased by something less than one mile per gallon; if engines ran on thinner oil. So instead of passing laws against SUVs; which really would have made a difference in this nation's fuel consumption, they passed a law requiring new vehicle manufacturers to require the use of "energy conserving" (diluted) oil grades in all their new vehicles. And the result of this law is that Mazda RX8 rotary engines in the US have been failing from major engine wear at 50,000-60,000 miles; while the same vehicles in Canada and Europe, where they don't use diluted oil, are typically running well past 100,000 miles without problems. The same phenomenon is taking place in Toyota piston engines; but in those engines, it manifests as piston slap. A few knowlegable mechanics found from use in their own vehicles that changing to Mobil 1's European formula 0W-40 stops the piston slap. This non diluted oil is available in the US (although not all stores which sell Mobil 1 carry it in stock; but stores and consumers can easily order it from regional Mobil distributors) so independent mechanics are recommending it to those car owners who recognize that something bad is happening to their engines.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Not all people feel as you do about SUV's. A lot of people need and use them for various actiities like camping. Doing away with SUV's and then trucks which are SUV's without all the glass then we put out all the Trailer manucfacturers and the thousands and thousands of people. As my neighbor says just because you want to drive a death trap doesn't mean we all do. When the time comes that SUV's get better mileage I'll have another. I think that time is coming, heck the Tahoe gets as good as a V6 Camry in town now. Do you really thing the Auto Industry is going to give up those $10,000 profitable vehicles without a fight.
  • tony108tony108 Member Posts: 16
    Thank you for the fast response. Anyway, I was hoping to learn if this has caused an irreversible damage to my engine (by using mobil 1 5w-20 at around 32,000 miles). Does the 'piston slap' noise means that it will worsen overtime? (perhaps after the 75,000 mile extended warranty is over?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I doubt that this is a black and white issue; there probably has been some added wear, but I would feel that, if the piston slap goes away after changing the oil type, the engine integrity will still be stable over time. This will definitely be more so if you only use this one type of oil for the rest of the life of the car.

    If it makes you feel any better; I have a highly modified V-8 engine in my Dodge van. Because it was built for towing heavy loads, one of the changes I made to that engine was to use forged pistons. I broke the engine in on a different weight of Mobil 1; and was dismayed to hear piston slap after the engine had just a few thousand miles on it. I knew that forged pistons are made with looser fitting skirts, to allow for their greater rate of expansion when they heat up; but I still didn't like that noise. Eventually, when the engine had about 20,000 miles on it, I was passing through New Mexico on a cross country trip, and decided to change the oil. But I couldn't find the viscosity I normally use, in the only parts store in town. However, they had the then newly released Mobil 1 in 0W-40. I read on the bottle that it was designed for Porsche, Mercedes, and other high performance European motors, and decided to try it. And the van motor ran better than it ever had before; while the piston slap gradually became less and less, until it disappeared completely. I now expect the improved lubrication and protection of this oil will enable a longer engine life than it would have had with any other lubricant. And I don't believe the amount of slapping that formerly took place has caused any irreparable damage.
  • shirleypshirleyp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Camry and I just moved up the Hill. I noticed that everytime I climb the hill I smell the burnt rubber. What can this be? Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You don't mention your mileage, nor whether you have an automatic transmission or manual.
    - I assume you aren't spinning your tires
    - If a manual, I would suspect your clutch adjustment.
    - If an automatic, depending upon your mileage I would check the fluid level and/or change the fluid.

    - Don't know how steep this hill is that you reference. But I guess it's conceivable that if it were REAL steep, that you may have a loose wire or hose somewhere that is shifting 'downhill' when you are going 'uphill', and it is rubbing on something.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Maybe someone who lives on the hill has a stack of burning tires; or is burning something that smells similar...
  • bel_07_camrybel_07_camry Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my '07 Camry in '06 and think I can hear water behind my speedometer. Sounds like its "swishing around" just behind the dashboard when I accelerate. Sometimes is quieter and can't hear over engine (4 cyl) and mostly when cold in the morning. I'm worried that there may have been problems with the earlier batches.
    I'm not mechanically inclined so I don't know where the gas tank is...could this be the noise mentioned in the other posting???
    It has over 50k miles on it and I change the oil regularly using Mobil 1 10w 30. Do I need to change transmission or something else?
    Please help.
    Thx
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    It may be condensation build up in the a/c duct work. If the drain gets plugged (which all systems will do from time to time due to debris) then water removed from the evaporator core can not escape. You would probably see wet carpeting on the passenger side if this is the case. Just a thought as to a place to look.
  • Perfect_impalaPerfect_impala Member Posts: 2
    I seem like you never drove the Toyota or Honda for long distance and just around the city so there is no problem but look back on the street how many Japanese old car (like Camry 85-87) not many but other brand more than Toyota, you should remember the sales number of Camry more than other. They are very smart in first 40years into America market they try to prove the quality but right now time to let them make money back so they cut down the quality so bad because they have spend a lot money for advertisement to make your psychology think Camry is good quality but if you focus more detail you will under stand because their logo more value then other brand but the price is most the same with other brand the quality certainly is not like 20 years ago, if compare with Mazda has the same price but Camry much expensive example Camry doesn't has alloy wheel as well and watch out the electrical of Toyota Camry and other plastic in side very easy to break. I never drive Japanese car and my wife drive Japanese car she has so amny problem make me feel sorry for her and now she change her view about the Japanese cars. Her 96 Honda Accord engine oil leaking at it's 84k miles, transmission broke down at 104k miles after she sold her cars, she bought 2007 Toyota Avalon Touring model $31,500 and she paid it off (we don't need to loan the bank money because out credit is excellence now). She drove 9k miles (still under 10k miles, under 12months) the car stay at Toyota of Garden Grove 7 times to repair and customers service is so bad I have no worlds how bad they are because they think they are Toyota so after sale they has no responsibility with customers and now my wife 2007 Avalon (pieces of junk) the brake too low the dealer said I have to paid $250 to fix. Sound so funny, no warranty at all 11k miles and 14months so I have to sale that junk cars with $19k, I lost $12500k for 14 months driving that's so expensive.
  • camry9camry9 Member Posts: 2
    I have 09 Camry LE Auto, with 10,000 miles had problems out of the lot one of them car drifts to left after 10 visits now drifts to right although they added a camber bolt!
    I also experience vibration in the car when driving at highway speed seems that is coming from the drive line.
    The dealer is very cooperative; however, they want toyota rep to drive it but before they even did they told the dealer it is normal for camry to has vibration specially if it is coming from the back, This tells me that it will be a waste of time if they come to drive it as they definetly say it is normal this is their out. If the car is normal I am sure the service manager would have said that.
    Anyway, wondering if anyone have experienced vibration issue or heard with new 09 camry, could it be transmission issue? if i downshift manually to D4 vibration is less in the car. RPM is about 2200 when going at 120km/h seems low thats maybe why it is smoother when going down to D4 as the RPM would go to 3000.

    Thanks,
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    If the vibration is not the tires then the vibration could be coming from the brake rotors being out of round. Yes this will cause a vibration even when you are not braking. Have them checked if you haven't already. No vibration is normal in any car. Don't settle for the dealer's answer.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Drifting and vibrations are not normal. Your dealer might be very cooperative, but they need the technical skills to fix your problem(s). Insist on getting these problems resolved.

    I have an 07 with about 35K miles on it now, and there are no vibrations and you can take your hands off the steering wheel and it will track straight down the highway.
  • atb2atb2 Member Posts: 30
    Anyway, wondering if anyone have experienced vibration issue or heard with new 09 camry, could it be transmission issue? if i downshift manually to D4 vibration is less in the car. RPM is about 2200 when going at 120km/h seems low thats maybe why it is smoother when going down to D4 as the RPM would go to 3000

    I agree that no tire, rotor or drivetrain vibrations should be present at any normal driving speeds (except maybe in lockup at around 40 mph with the I4). But, most 4 cyl engines will have a vibration at somewhere near idle in N or in D or on takeoff. My '09 I4 has this behavior. Not an issue with the V6's, as I have driven plenty of them. Again, you get what you pay for.
  • PianoMan26PianoMan26 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 07 Camry SE V6 and have been experiencing a strong vibration in the steering wheel at 60-70 MPH. What's worse, sometimes the brakes vibrated as well. The dealer claims that this was caused by the brake rotors (which I found hard to believe). They warrantied the brake pads and I paid for a tire rotation and alignment balancing (as they said the vibration was still there but less after replacing the brakes). The car drives a lot better now, I just hope the vibration does not come back (as I have read that for some unfortunate Camry owners it did). I would definitely not accept a vibration as normal and would take it to a different Toyota dealership if you can, good luck.
  • PianoMan26PianoMan26 Member Posts: 2
    I had the exact same issue, a severe vibration on my 2007 Camry SE V6. Tires wore unevenly and extremely quickly. The dealer claimed issues with the brake rotors and alignment. They warrantied the rotors but I paid for alignment (with the understanding that if the issue comes back Toyota will pay for the alignment). I just got the car back today and it's driving well, but not sure how long it will hold, I will report back if it comes back or not.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Strong vibration while braking suggests warped brake rotors, which you had replaced. Vibration through the steering wheel at highway speeds (without braking) suggests improper front wheel balance, which will lead to irregular tire wear. Have you replaced the tires? (Sounds like they should have been from your description.)

    I have had 3 Camrys (two presently), none with rotors warping. However, my former '90 Mercury Sable developed warped front rotors after only 17K miles. And much later (I forget the exact mileage), one of the rear calipers stuck and gouged the inside surface of the left rear rotor, requiring replacement. The only way I knew something was wrong was that the wheel was very hot after driving AND it started to discolor (alloy wheels).
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles