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One other thing. about two months ago i tried to start it and i would just hear the starter solinoid go clunk. I finally got someone to push me and it started right up. Haven't had that problem again....Yet. Side note: Both times it wouldn't start was in the same grocery store parking lot almost in the same parking space! HHmmmmmmm...ain't gonna park there no more!
I'll look up the website and part # and post it later.
Year: 1991
Engine: 3.0L, EFI
Manual transmission
The engine cranks good, but does not start. There is no fire at all.
Back story:
I had a bad alternator, which I changed a week ago or so. After replacing the alternator, everything was back to normal...engine started and ran as it always had...a little rough.
So, I decided to change the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, and coil, since they are all so cheap. After changing everything, it started and ran exactly the same as before changing everything. FYI, the old plugs on the passenger side had the electrodes missing, lol. I replaced the wires to match the exact order of the old cap.
Anyway, after looking at the manual, I noticed the wiring of the plugs was incorrect on the passenger side, so I fixed that, and tried to restart, but the engine would not fire. It would crank fine, but no fire.
Okay, so that is how I got where I am now.
Symptoms:
1. Engine cranks, but will not start. No engine fire whatsoever.
2. I can smell a small amount of fuel odor as I continue to crank it. This makes me think the fuel system is working, and I'm just getting a build up of unburnt fuel in the engine.
Fuel pump: I can hear the pump start like normal. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but I did press down on the Schroeder valve with the key on, and fuel sprayed out. I may run down and get a gauge later to test it.
Spark: I tried grounding the plugs on the driver side and saw spark while cranking. I can't really tell if the spark is strong enough to ignite the fuel, but it doesn't seem like it would take much.
I have spark and fuel, so why won't 't it start?
I tried squirting a little fuel into the intake while cranking, and still no engine fire.
__________________
1991 Ford Ranger XLT
3.0 engine
manual transmission
2-wheel drive
standard cab
I have a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3- 4 cylinder and it keeps breaking the starter, either the bendix or nose cone of the starter. It has only started doing this after the timing belt went out. I have had the belt fixed, it is in time, new fly wheel, and multiple starters put on it. It has a real hard start. It shakes the whole engine trying to start. It keeps back like it is out of time. Any ideas? I can only keep a starter on it for a few months at a time. Runs well enough once you get it started though.
Experts now tell me only way to work around the problem is to run a switch directly to the solinoid switch and drill hole in engine bulkhead, then bridge solinoid via switch.
Any suggestions on a real fix rather than a jury rigged fix? Experts tell me the fix would be very expensive.
I'm looking for suggestions as well
Thanks
The problem is your neutral safety start switch. There is a wire loom behind the motor going down to the transmission Check to make sure that it is plugged in and the connection is not dirty Of that does not fix it then check the sensor on the clutch pedal
I put the key in the Ignition and turn it all the way to the on position without trying to start it, my dash lights are good and bright. The second I try to start it I get a click and a sound like the starter motor is trying to turn but then the dash lights go really dim and flicker slightly, not all the way off but dimmer and slightly less dim. There is no further response from the starter, however my fuel pump relay chatters under the hood when the key is in the on position. Cycling the key does not produce any other results and the lights stay dim until I disconnect the battery for a few hours and reconnect it. Then it usually starts up normally again, however today it still had the same symptoms after 7 hours, except that the lights were bright before trying to start it again. I also thought I may have heard an arcing sound coming from down further into the engine compartment while the key was on. Resistance measured from negative terminal on the battery to the body of the truck and the engine block both were only in the range of a few ohms. The battery read a solid 12.4v before and after the failure to start, even while the lights are dim. I don't have a way to safely get an amperage reading.
I haven't been able to find anyone who has experienced this combination of symptoms. I know the battery is good because normally it starts right up with no hesitation and Autozone tested it and they said it is OK too. The alternator is only 2 years old and produces proper voltage when the engine is running.
I am going to try to trace the starter power wire from the solenoid to the motor tomorrow and see if the insulation is rubbed off or something. Other than that I'm stuck.
Ryan
Not a mechanic, but want to have an idea of what it might be so we can get it repaired!
:sick:
Have good elec. Battery is new. Replaced the fuel pump relay.
Still nothing. Can hear the sound of fluid(fuel?) when I try to start it.
Either a spark problem or a fuel problem.
Please help.
Would be nice is you said what engines you have....
On my 94 4Liter, a known problem (I never had it.) was sensor on the thermostat housing, or that general area.
One sensor is the temp gauge sensor, a single wire - doesn't have anything to do with starting.
Second sensor usually will have a two wire connection which will be a black and a yellow twisted together. This sensor tells the 'computer' if it's a cold or a hot start. And manages the fuel volume thru the injector accordingly. If this fails, it is difficult to start cold. But will start fine if the motor is still warm from previously running.
If you have a symptom like this, find and replace this sensor.
I have a similar issue starting my 98 Ranger and I thought I would try to replace the three relays you mentioned. The part number mentioned in the 252 post is no longer available/listed at the site and I wondered if you could clarify which 3 relays you were replacing of the 10 or so in the power distribution box - I thought it might be the PCM, Starter and Fuel pump, but the Fuel Pump is a different size.
Thanks
Your '98 must be different from my '94. I have only three relays in my power distribution box...along with several fuses. This is the box located under the hood over the drivers side fender well.
I have not had any starting problems since I replaced these many months ago.
Thanks for the response and the good news - I have high hopes this is the solution to my issue. My '98 has slots for 14, but only 10 are populated with a mix of 1x1x1 relays and 1x2x1 relays. Most seem irrelevant to this type of issue so I am going to focus on the PCM, starter and Fuel Pump (which is one of the larger 1x2x1) relays.