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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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    billyntarabillyntara Member Posts: 5
    Have the battery checked. Mine started doing the same thing and the battery was going bad. I replaced it and haven't had a problem since.
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    shawnny3shawnny3 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 Grand Caravan that is having electrical problems. The front and rear fans only work on the highest setting. The radio and power windows stop working momentarily whenever the brakes are pressed.

    The diagnostics are throwing a P1698 code (No messages received from the electronic transmission control module).

    Any ideas would be much appreciated.

    -Shawn
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    asknotwhoasknotwho Member Posts: 1
    Just went outside to start the 2001 T&C. May have been adjusting the power seat while turning the ignition key. May have noticed that a child left the reading light on. Whether any of that is connected, I don't know. But instead of starting the engine, I heard a click in the area of the right side sliding passenger door. I couldn't get that door to open manually or remotely. Then the dash lights start flashing and winshield wipers start moving, even though the switch is off. I finally got the sliding door to open by using the fob and opening it manually at the same time, but now all the fob does when you tell it to open that door is unlock it. The fob will open the rear gate, but not close it. This is all very strane. The battery is now weak, but I don't know whether it's old and going bad or simply drained from this experience. Only work done recently is flushing the brake lines. I may have noticed that the cover to the fuse box was not latched on both sides, but I don't know of a reason anyone would have been in the fuse box. No prior electrical issues in 65,000 miles. Thanks for any advice. (Cross country trip scheduled for next month, of course.)
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    tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    Strange things sometimes start happening when the battery is low. A car I used to own would turn on the wipers when the battery was going out.

    It certainly sounds like a dead battery. If it isn't too old you can probably get by with just recharging it, which can either be done with a charger or a jump start and drive around for at least 1/2 hour.

    If that's still the original battery from 2001 you might want to get a new one. An old battery can't take being drained very well and you'll just be encountering more problems if you keep it.
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    4bzzy4bzzy Member Posts: 1
    We have been having problems for about a year. Sometimes the van will start and then stop about three times, and then not start at all. If we lock it up and let it sit for about 10 - 45 min. it will then start. We have also been driving and all of a sudden lost the speedometer and and gas guage or the dash lights. When this happens either the check engine light or ABS light will come on. Eventually this will then reset and be fine for a while. The drivers side window will only go back up a bit at a time, there have been times when we have had to leave someone in the van in a parking garage for 5 - 10 minutes until it goes up. We recently replaced the battery, which our mechanic said would fix the problems, but it happened again today - any suggestions???
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    slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    Did you ever fix this problem? I am having the same problem.
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    mommaofthree07mommaofthree07 Member Posts: 2
    We are having the SAME problem and it did it again today! Have you had any luck fixing it or figuring out what the problem is/was? We were thinking it could be a relay switch but we are not 100% on that.
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    heiferhopperheiferhopper Member Posts: 5
    Not with the original van. We took it to the dealer who had Chrysler come in and take a look at it. We had the van in the shop about 4 times when Chrysler stated that they did not want to give it back to us because of safety issues. We were told to get a new van from the dealer and we have had that one since early June. So far, that van has been in the dealer once for a squealing noise emanating from the engine compartment. We have about 1700 miles on it and so far, nothing yet, though the side doors have been acting strangely. Holding our breath so far. If your dealer is a good dealer, they may be able to assist you on the cause, but it seems that Chrysler is not very forthcoming, as well as the dealership on our side. We have no idea as to the cause of the problems with the van.
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    slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    What is the name/location of the dealership you used? I want to use your case as prescedant for getting a new car myself.

    Thanks
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    leex3leex3 Member Posts: 1
    Our 98 GC is doing the exact same thing with the only exception being that the drivers window has trouble going down. We have replaced the keyless entry module and it still happens. Any help you could give us would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
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    sandie0000sandie0000 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Dodge Carivan and this is my only transportation and I need help I have a disabled huband who is a dialysis patient, heart patient and amputee and stroke. I have to work, and pull 12 hour shifts. Then carry him to dialysis on my off days or doctors appointment. I have had my car in the garage several time and the problem is not fixed yet.
    1. My windshield wipers. They come on all of a sudden in the off position and never know when that is going to happen. If I run my windshield wipers the car will not change gears. When they come on while driving, the van will down gears at what ever speed I am driving. I have to pull off the road and turn the engine off and restart the car for it to change gears while driving. So raining I have to drive home from work with out wipers at 8 pm. Not easy thing to do.
    2. I have also have had the van in the shop for radiator problems. New radiator and hoses. But now the car runs hot only if I am have to stop and go. Like at red lights. But if I get on a straight a-way ( like interstate) it will cool it self off and the temp gage returns to normal.
    I need help and don't know what more to do.
    Sandy
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    tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    I'm not a mechanic, but I can make a suggestion on a temp fix for the wiper problem. Until someone diagnoses why it does this you say you have to drive in the rain with the wipers off. This isn't a fix but get a product called Rain-X and apply it to the windshield. Water rolls right off and you don't need to have the wipers running. Most auto parts stores should have it.

    I used a Rain-X brand windshield washer fluid and I hardly ever needed to turn the wipers on. Fill your washer bottle with it, give it a few squirts before you start driving and let the wipers spread it across the glass, turn the wipers off and you're all set to drive in the rain and still be able to see.

    On the overheating, check to see if the radiator fan comes on when it gets hot. If it doesn't there might be an easy fix. Someone may have left the fan unplugged or the connection came loose. You say it doesn't overheat when you're driving at highway speeds. That's because enough airflow is blowing through the radiator. No air at low speeds if the fan isn't working and that will cause it to overheat.

    I guess you know that turning the heater on and the temp control lever to the high position will help cool it down. I know it's not a pleasant thing to do in the summer.
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    joshockeyjoshockey Member Posts: 13
    never had this happen but on my 96 voyager my turn signals seem to work when the want im not sure if this is a flasher problem or a much worse issue i also have no cruise control or horn? it worked awhile back now it doesnt how do i go about this. all fuses are fine and i am mechainicaly inclined just not sure what her issue is. :P
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    tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    Is the airbag light also on? If it is then it is most likely a defective clock spring. If it's not totally broken (yet) you can get an intermittent fault. You said the turn signals sometimes work. In that case the airbag light probably would not be on.

    Try this test: Press down on the horn button as you turn the steering wheel all the way from one side to the other. You will probably hear the horn at one point.

    There is a factory recall for the clock spring and if it is determined that yours is defective you can probably get it fixed for free. Try a Google search for more information on this.
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    rpittmonrpittmon Member Posts: 5
    :confuse: We traded our '02 T&C for this sad "08 T&C Touring. I had never had any problems with charging my mobility scooter (@ less than 2 amps draw) in the '02 even with lights and accessories on. The '08 cannot charge the scooter at all through the onboard inverter, or with an after-market inverter ( our original or a brand new one). However, at the dealership the scooter would charge from another new T&C through either the onboard or the after-market system. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with the van and that we will just have to utilize the outlet up front, down near the floor below the radio and climate controls. That doesn't work either. It was proved to them sitting in their driveway and we have tried it going 70 mph down the highway with absolutely nothing else turned on. Still they say there is nothing wrong. Our '04 PT Cruiser can charge the scooter just fine sitting in our driveway at idle.
    But that is not the only electrical problem with this citrus fruit. The power sliding door on the right previously would stop & reverse direction when trying to close at random intervals--sometimes just once and other times several repeats. Part of those times it would respond properly to use of the remote or the console button, but most often it would require manually closing it. The dealership performed some sort of computer fix in late April or early May. That lasted until July 14. The same door would open fully and then sort of clunk as if reaching its stopping position anywhere from once to four times. On July 15 that door stopped midway to closing. When my son tried the automatic button a second time he deliberately put his arm in the way of the closing door to see if it would reverse itself, but it only stopped. The remote would not work and the door again had to be manually closed.
    Then later that same day, when he started the van in my driveway to go home, neither the lights or the air conditioning would come on--he decided to just leave the switches alone and before he went a full block they both turned on.
    I REALLY think this van has some SERIOUS electrical problems.
    I am now waiting for a call from the service department manager (who said he would call us after he talked with Chrysler, which was to have been June 23--but the call never came). I called Chrysler this morning but I only got to talk with a CSR in India whom I doubt has ever even seen an '08 T&C. She transferred me to a gal in Tennessee, but she could/would not transfer me (or provide a phone number) to Tech Support.
    I haven't mentioned all the snaps/pops/crack sounds which appear to eminate from various portions of the overhead that runs nearly the full length of the van--the dealership staff cannot hear them or find them!
    I wish I had spent this money on repair of my '02's power steering instead of getting involved with this clown car! I WANT A BUY BACK!
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    tbudingertbudinger Member Posts: 1
    This has started happening more often. Whenever temp outside gets warm, the radio will go in and out. This is especially apparent when any electrical device is activated...ie: put the brakes on...radio goes out...roll the windows down and the radio goes out. It just seems to happen at the time u first ask for electrical power. In addition when u press the auto drivers window switch down, you get a little beep then the window will go down. Window switch??? Alternator??? please help, other than that, van is running perfect.
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    tomactomac Member Posts: 1
    My '05 Town & Country has an intermitent electrical problem with the headlights/tail lights. They simply will not come on everytime the switch is rolled over. Does anyone have the same problems and solution?
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    basline11basline11 Member Posts: 13
    My '05 T&C headlights were giving me a problem also. Disconnect the battery for about an hour. It's provided some help where they would be reliable for anumber of weeks. The actual problem is somewhere in a control module that runs $300+. Good luck.
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    minvanmanminvanman Member Posts: 2
    This is my first post to any forum, so please forgive me if I break any rules. I have a T@C with 170,000 miles on it. The dash gauges have gone out. The dash lights work but the speed, tach, oil and heat as well as gear indicator do not work. The van runs fine. This happened while on a trip and I put 1200 miles on the van while the gauges did not work. I did replace the fuse in the box under the dash labeled "guages". it didn't look burnt, but I've heard these type fuses can be "out" even when you cant see it. Replacing the fuse did not bring my gauges back. So, did I replace the right fuse? I checked all the others and they did not look blown. Is it true that fuses can be blown without looking blown (I pulled all the ones under the dash but they did not look blown.) Help I need my gauges back and don't want to go to a dealer. To give you an idea where I want to go with the van...I have a 96 dodge stratus with 320,000 miles on it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    These are good vans. I've used mine to haul my family, constructoin material (poor man's pickup with seats out) and pop up camper. You just have to stay on top of the maintenance and use proper transmission fluid (Chrysler only)
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    robert1955robert1955 Member Posts: 39
    We have a 05 Grand Caravan and this weekend the inside door lock stoped working on both the driver and passanger door controls. The remote also will not lock/unlock or open the side doors. The overhead console buttons will open the side doors after you manualy unlock them. When you hit the lock button on the remote the horn chirps as it should but it will not lock/unlock the doors.
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    bchee1bchee1 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem, and I noted in the discussion group that it might be a solder point in the instrument panel, can you tell me if you got the problem resolved?

    email: bchee@yahoo.com thanks
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    basline11basline11 Member Posts: 13
    Disconnect the battery for about one hour.
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    jvajnkiejvajnkie Member Posts: 3
    I have had those same symptoms for a year as well. When starting the car it would turn over and immediately die and I would have no "life" in the control panel. Sometimes I would lose the control panel while driving, but the car would still be driveable. I thought it had something to do with the heat.
    After having my '97 T & C at the dealer for a week their initial diagnosis was the TCM ( ithink that is the transmission control module) Then they said it might be the PCM. They have now diagnosed it as the cluster ? Not sure what that is but they have assured me replacing that will fix the problem.
    Hope this helps !!
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    jvajnkiejvajnkie Member Posts: 3
    I have had those same symptoms for a year as well. When starting the car it would turn over and immediately die and I would have no "life" in the control panel. Sometimes I would lose the control panel while driving, but the car would still be driveable. I thought it had something to do with the heat.
    After having my '97 T & C at the dealer for a week their initial diagnosis was the TCM ( ithink that is the transmission control module) Then they said it might be the PCM. They have now diagnosed it as the cluster ? Not sure what that is but they have assured me replacing that will fix the problem.
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    jvajnkiejvajnkie Member Posts: 3
    I have had those same symptoms for a year as well. When starting the car it would turn over and immediately die and I would have no "life" in the control panel. Sometimes I would lose the control panel while driving, but the car would still be driveable. I thought it had something to do with the heat.
    After having my '97 T & C at the dealer for a week their initial diagnosis was the TCM ( ithink that is the transmission control module) Then they said it might be the PCM. They have now diagnosed it as the cluster ? Not sure what that is but they have assured me replacing that will fix the problem.
    Hope this helps !!!
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    gliderflyergliderflyer Member Posts: 2
    Over the last 6 weeks or so this event has happened 3 times. We go to start our 2005 T&C that runs perfectly the previous day and it will not start. The battery is dead and needs to be jumped. The battery and alternator have both been tested by a reputable battery shop and they are fine. After jumping, the car runs great, no problems. The only commonality I have found is that on the days previous to the battery being dead the back doors and hatch have been left open for extended periods. By extended I mean 30 minutes to 3 hours or so. In any case the car has been driven after the doors had been left open, in one case over 90 miles and then the nest morning it's dead. Maybe the doors have nothing to do with it but I thought I'd throw it out there. The only other commonality is that it always happens on a Thursday when my wife has the car loaded to go make our farm deliveries and I'm not home! Frustrating to say the least. Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Randy
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    ckmartinckmartin Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Grand Caravan and it has recently started making a "clicking" noise when attempting to start it. While this is happening the speedometer and RPM gauges spike to their limits and then slowly return to 0. This vehicle has a 1 year old battery and has had no electrical problems in the past.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks.
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    While I may be stating the obvious, if a good battery discharges overnight to the point that it cannot start the car the next day, there is a large "parasitic" drain on the battery when everything is supposed to be off. I had a shorted diode in the alternator on a 76 Datsun 260-Z that did just that. When the car was off, the shorted diode provided a low resistance path to ground which would discharge the battery overnight. The Datsun came with an ammeter as part of the instrument cluster, and it was showing the discharge when the car was off. Replacing the diode pack in the alternator solved the problem.

    First thing I would do is disconnect the battery at night and see if that fixes/prevents the problem.

    If it does, then try to narrow the problem to a group of accessories or loads by selectively pulling fuses at night.

    I know this can be tedious, but electrical problems like you're describing tend to be just that.
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    gliderflyergliderflyer Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. I did in fact take the car to another parts store and had them test it again and sure enough the tester showed an overcharge condition along with a "diode fault" error. I'm going to throw a little money at it and replace the alternator tonight and with a little luck it'll be solved. If not I'll do as you suggest with the pulling fuses and such. I'll need to use my multimeter right at the battery as there is no meter on the car.

    Thanks again,
    Randy
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    aromanbaromanb Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem as gliderflyer. However, mine is more mysterious as the battery comes up dead almost randomly and needs a jump. For example, we've not had the problem for a month. Then last night we open all doors and back hatch for about 15-20 minuts to adjust seats empty the vehicle. This morning my wife jumps in with the kids and all starts fine, no hesitation. She drives literally less than 2 miles to the car wash place in town, shuts the engine off, and opens doors for a total of 5 minutes to vacuum the car. Timing is true as the vacuum only runs 3 minutes on 4 quarters and kids stayed in seats! She closes the doors, and turns the key and just gets the clickckckckckckckc sound. Dead battery AGAIN. Though I like the fuse idea, I can't explain how the drain could happen that fast, but not overnight? Last resort is to take it to dealer while on vacation and tell them do the fuse test and find/fix the problem. Any thoughts?
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Your's sounds more like a flaky connection someplace, maybe in the +12V lead to the starter or starter relay (not sure what Chrysler products have).
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    dodgenightmaredodgenightmare Member Posts: 6
    Hi, not sure if I am too late - I just read your post but notice it is from August 2, almost 2 weeks ago,

    Anyway, the first thing I would check - and this is easier than it sounds, though a little tougher than changing a fuse - is the circuit board that is housed behind your dashboard. It drives all of your instrument gauges. Good thing you have not gone to a dealer - I hope you haven't yet, because I haven't found one single one that actually knows what to do in this case. Anyway, there are some solder points on the circuit board that when they were created were soldered too cold, and over time have cracked, causing a communication breakdown. Find the spots that look like they have a crack or a crack-ring in them and re-solder the spots. It that is indeed what it is, that will fix the problem. Or, if you are not comfortable with a soldering iron, you ould buy a new circuit board and install it - but the soldering iron is much cheaper, trust me - I think I paid $5.00 for mine at the local tool store - Harbor Freight - an el-cheapo one will do the job. Or pay a friend who is handy with one to do the job.

    I had this very same challenge for two years and tried so many different things - except spend money - until I finally figured ou what it was by pure perseverance. I did the complete job -removing the board, soldering, re-installing, and putting all the dash panels back in about 15 to 20 minutes.

    I have also heard others who were told by a dealer or a mechanic to change this or that - from Body Control Module (computer) to relay switches, to other expensive things - some up to $3,000 later and still the problem was not resolved. I was not willing to spend that kind of money of people who were just guessing and making a mint in the process. So I was patient and ended up spending only $5.00 to resolve the challenge.

    Good luck, and hope it helps.
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    dodgenightmaredodgenightmare Member Posts: 6
    Check the instrument/gauge cluster circuit board located directly behind the instrument panel.

    You will need to remove the front panel housing around the instrument panel to get at it isn't a difficult task - check on-line for some visual instructions if you need help.

    Once you have the circuit board removed check for solder cracks - a magnifying glass helps but usually you can see them with the naked eye, depending on your eye-sight. Sometimes the cracks look like a little black ring around the point - especially check the points where the main power source connects to the instrument panel (the one you can detach and re-attach (sorry can't think of what to call that at the moment) where the main wires plug into the board.

    Re-solder all the points, re-install and see how it goes.

    I had the exact same problem you describe for two years and found the solution through pure perseverance and some inspiration. Once I decided to check the instrument circuit board, I had it out and in and fixed within 15 to 20 minutes and NEVER have had a problem since.

    The job is easy enough to do on your own 9or ask a D-I-Y-minded friend) with an el-cheapo soldering iron from Harbor Freight or somewhere - I paid $5 for mine - that is all I ever spent on the problem - never replaced any modules, though many suggested I should, or any other parts anywhere. I did suffer plenty of frustration and exercised lots and lots of patience - 2 years worth, so I know what you are going through, and as a one-vehicle guy/family myself shared your anxiety. After I did the soldering thing, never had the trouble again.

    So good luck, and I hope many others get to read this post.

    Apparently it all is caused by some faulty manufacturing - the points are soldered too cold and that causes them to crack over time. Temperature changes can also wreak havoc once the spots start to go.

    And the ignition thing is caused by your computer sensing that there is a communication breakdown and shutting down the fuel relay - that's why you can start and then it dies straight away. The complete NO RESPONSE after X number of tries/attempts to start is your SECURITY SYSTEM kicking in to prevent theft -it senses too many attempts under faulty conditions (out-of-the-ordinary or usual) and shuts the whole system down by disabling the feul relay to function all together and also shutting down the Starter relay. - there is a way to jump the relays - good for "stranded" situation, but that is another post - and a little more tricky. However, if you fix the solder points, you won't need the relay-jump method, anyway . . .

    The waiting (sometimes for a few or many hours) is the time it takes for the system to clear the error from it's memory/reset itself. Sometimes that only takes a short while, and other times it can take hours. Not sure exactly what causes this, but have a very strong suspicion that it has to do with the cracked spots re-aligning themselves to create at least some contact as the ambient temperature changes - day to evening - allowing contact to happen again.

    When the instrument cluster goes out while you are driving, the security system is not effected - your car does not die - because you are not trying to start. The dying only happens when in the starting phase because that is what the security system is built to protect - unauthorized use of your vehicle . . .

    Anyway, hope it helps and resolves your problem. If it does, please post and let us know (and send me a note at igor_speak@hotmail.com) and spread the word to others that are suffering the same problem - there seem to be lots.

    Good luck
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    dodgenightmaredodgenightmare Member Posts: 6
    Not certain about the window not winding up very fast - presume it is also a wiring problem.

    As to it not starting when instrument gauges don't register at start-up, or instruments dying while driving, check the instrument/gauge cluster circuit board located directly behind the instrument panel.

    You will need to remove the front panel housing around the instrument panel to get at it isn't a difficult task - check on-line for some visual instructions if you need help.

    Once you have the circuit board removed check for solder cracks - a magnifying glass helps but usually you can see them with the naked eye, depending on your eye-sight. Sometimes the cracks look like a little black ring around the point - especially check the points where the main power source connects to the instrument panel (the one you can detach and re-attach (sorry can't think of what to call that at the moment) where the main wires plug into the board.

    Re-solder all the points, re-install and see how it goes.

    I had the exact same problem you describe for two years and found the solution through pure perseverance and some inspiration. Once I decided to check the instrument circuit board, I had it out and in and fixed within 15 to 20 minutes and NEVER have had a problem since.

    The job is easy enough to do on your own 9or ask a D-I-Y-minded friend) with an el-cheapo soldering iron from Harbor Freight or somewhere - I paid $5 for mine - that is all I ever spent on the problem - never replaced any modules, though many suggested I should, or any other parts anywhere. I did suffer plenty of frustration and exercised lots and lots of patience - 2 years worth, so I know what you are going through, and as a one-vehicle guy/family myself shared your anxiety. After I did the soldering thing, never had the trouble again.

    So good luck, and I hope many others get to read this post.

    Apparently it all is caused by some faulty manufacturing - the points are soldered too cold and that causes them to crack over time. Temperature changes can also wreak havoc once the spots start to go.

    And the ignition thing is caused by your computer sensing that there is a communication breakdown and shutting down the fuel relay - that's why you can start and then it dies straight away. The complete NO RESPONSE after X number of tries/attempts to start is your SECURITY SYSTEM kicking in to prevent theft -it senses too many attempts under faulty conditions (out-of-the-ordinary or usual) and shuts the whole system down by disabling the feul relay to function all together and also shutting down the Starter relay. - there is a way to jump the relays - good for "stranded" situation, but that is another post - and a little more tricky. However, if you fix the solder points, you won't need the relay-jump method, anyway . . .

    The waiting (sometimes for a few or many hours) is the time it takes for the system to clear the error from it's memory/reset itself. Sometimes that only takes a short while, and other times it can take hours. Not sure exactly what causes this, but have a very strong suspicion that it has to do with the cracked spots re-aligning themselves to create at least some contact as the ambient temperature changes - day to evening - allowing contact to happen again.

    When the instrument cluster goes out while you are driving, the security system is not effected - your car does not die - because you are not trying to start. The dying only happens when in the starting phase because that is what the security system is built to protect - unauthorized use of your vehicle . . .

    Anyway, hope it helps and resolves your problem. If it does, please post and let us know (and send me a note at igor_speakhotmail.com) and spread the word to others that are suffering the same problem - there seem to be lots.

    Good luck
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    sdchargerfansdchargerfan Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out the problem causing the headlight issue. I'm having the same trouble on my 2005 T&C.
    Thanks,
    Ken
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    minvanmanminvanman Member Posts: 2
    It was the circuit board behind the gauges. It's called a variety of things (ckt printed board) I'm not mechanically inclined enough to go the "solder route" . I had a Chrysler mechanic buy it (his costs) and install it "on the side. total costs 370.00. (Dealership in my area wanted 850.00) My thinking on this is that this "board" seems to be a week link that is responsible for a variety of problems. So even if I spotted and "fixed" the breaks/cracks. It may still develop new ones in the future. (due to being exposed to the heat of 170,000 miles. The guy that did it for me is a genius and knows "all things" Chrysler vans. Anyone that needs work in the Atlanta area, let me know and I'll give you his contact info.
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    glenntuiaglenntuia Member Posts: 2
    just this morning, after a return drive to the house I turned off the ignition but could still hear the radiator fans still on. I then went to the fuse box and removed the 40a fuse to the dual fans. the fans stopped. i reinstalled the fuse but don't think the fans are working (suppose to come on and off, right?...) actually, the van drives okay, but if the fans are inop wouldn't the engine overheat eventually?
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    tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    The fans turn on and off based on the coolant temp. It has nothing to do with whether the engine is on or not. They can still run for a while after you turn the engine off and they usually will not turn on unless the coolant temp gets above normal.

    If you reinstalled the fuse when the engine was still hot and the fans were trying to run there might have been a current surge which blew the fuse. Check that first.
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    forbiddencreatforbiddencreat Member Posts: 2
    ok sorry like i said this is a new thing for me .. but im trying to look for answers. i own a 2005 dodge caravan its got about 96,000 miles on it. and ive had nothing but problems with it.. and it only seems to happen when its raining. but the out come stays. my locks went out on me. my driver side window dont work. i think there electrical problems. my radio goes out. my ac / heater went out just this weekend with all the rain. ive had problems with my head lights. i buy a new one and it goes out in a week. all my dash lights keep going out on me.
    does anyone one have a clue to why all this is happening and how i can fix the problems. with out having to trade it in or sell it.
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    basline11basline11 Member Posts: 13
    I haven't had all of the things go wrong that you have had but I have found that when my lights started acting up (not coming on all the time) and the occasion when my locks stoped working, I unhooked the battery for an hour or so. So far after 6 months, things seem to be normal. It could be a more serious issue for you but I do suggest you try the battery method first.
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    forbiddencreatforbiddencreat Member Posts: 2
    ive tried this many of times even had my computer reset and new software added to the computer.
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    maxima8maxima8 Member Posts: 14
    I have been having the same problem with my 98 T&C It will start and die three times and then not star at all. until next morning
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    mcdocsmcdocs Member Posts: 6
    Hi. I hope by now you have solved this. For others with this problem, however, have your fuel pump wiring checked. A rodent had chewed through mine (1997 T&C), resulting in continuous successful engine cranking without ignition, because the engine was not getting fuel. Repair of the wiring took care of it. Do not let the mechanic charge you for an expensive fuel pump replacement until they have first checked out the wiring!

    Let me know if this helps.

    McDocs
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    mcdocsmcdocs Member Posts: 6
    Hi. I hope by now you have solved this. For others with this problem, however, have your fuel pump wiring checked. A rodent had chewed through mine (1997 T&C), resulting in continuous successful engine cranking without ignition, because the engine was not getting fuel. Repair of the wiring took care of it. Do not let the mechanic charge you for an expensive fuel pump replacement until they have first checked out the wiring!

    Let me know if this helps.

    McDocs
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    maxima8maxima8 Member Posts: 14
    the problem is that my van would start one day and it would be fine for a couple days to a week. Then out of no where, the van doesn't start anymore until a couple days later. The mileage light on the dashboard doesn't turn on resulting that the car doesn't start.
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    maxima8maxima8 Member Posts: 14
    The problem is that my van would start one day and it would be fine for a couple days to a week, then out of no where, the van doesnt start anymore until next day, the mileage light on the dashboard doesnt turn on resulting that the car doest start
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    papatxipapatxi Member Posts: 1
    :mad: I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. The power door locks have been going nuts. They will unlock and lock when it wants too and it keeps going until it wants to stop. I mean we lock it at night and in the morning the doors are unlocked. I just tryed unhooking the battery. No Help. I also pulled the fuse someone said and no help. Has anyone else had this problem and was able to fix it please let me know.
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    jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Sometimes a weak battery causes the electircal system to go haywire. Consider having a charging system check to make sure the alternator is charging the battery properly. If the battery is weak, then replace it. Good luck.
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    kerckhofkerckhof Member Posts: 6
    Replaceing clock spring in dodge caravan invlove pulling wiring harness thro steering column and right by wiper switch, or can it be replaced some other way with out pulling wires.
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    nickthepicknickthepick Member Posts: 1
    my 97 T&C lx - does the same thing... gauges go out & power door locks go out airbag lights but "clears" like normal but brake stays on. Some minutes later the "take me to the repair shop $$" light comes on. The problem can last a few days or a few minutes. All of a sudden everything begins working. The "repair light" will stay on for maybe a day and then it goes out. Think that's the circuit problem too. Is it ieasy to find and to get to or do you have to un install it?
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