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Toyota RAV4 2007
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Comments
what does an AWD Rav4 do in the following situation:
Stop the car so both left side wheels are on the road, and both right side wheels are on gravel, snow or ice (something loose or slippery).
Then floor the accelerator.
What happens?
1. engine cuts power and vehicle crawls forward
2. engine revs, wheels on right spin, vehicle crawls forward or swerves,
3. engine revs, vehicle accelerates promptly and goes in straight line
4. your experience/results.
If 3., that is what I saw in both Subaru's I drove recently. Unfortunately , the Subaru line has issues with fuel economy and interior quality, hence the interest in the AWD Rav4.
Mike
Do you know about the rav4 forums? http://rav4world.com/forums/index.php
Check over there.
Best,
Mike
for many years toyota and quality have been synonymous. ever since toyota has made an attempt to take over the #1 position in auto sales throughout the world, they have been neglecting quality and emphasizing quantity.
the more the output, the closer you get to the point of diminishing return... i think toyota has reached that point.
after reading the postings on this site and other automobile sites, i have never seen as many complaints about the annoying rattles, cheap paint, unknown engine noises, knocking in the steering column that toyota now has. there are many other complaints, but i think you get the point.
like i said this is just my opinion.
I have a 2007 RAV4 4x4 base model with V6. I have noticed that when driving on smooth roads at speeds greater than 50 mph I can feel a vibration through my feet and also in the seat that seems to come and go. Sometimes I can feel it in the steering wheel as well. It is not a major vibration, but it is annoying. I had the car to the dealership twice and they just rebalanced the wheels and rotated the tires, but that did not make any difference. Does anyone else have a vibration issue when driving at faster speeds.
Thanks.
Good luck to you!
Who was it that said...
"A sucker is born every minute..."
??
The dealer does that so as to not sell to the suckers at cut-rate prices.
"A sucker is born every minute..."
i believe you're talking about p.t.barnum
My dealership acts like they have never heard of an MP3 player. They did not even know where the MP3 Jack was in my 2007 RAV 4 when I could not find it myself..
Thanks
Julie
Some customers may notice noise in the auxiliary mode of the radio when using an MP3 player or other external audio source connected to the 12V power port of the vehicle. An improved auxiliary port and in-line filter has been developed to improve this condition.
I will be at the customer service manager's office in the next two days about this problem. thanks again, Happy New Year..
Julie
you will have to tell them you added 4 quarts in 5000 miles for them to take a look. if it was my car, that is exactly what i would tell them.
Fact is, modern engines actually burn more oil than older engines. Why? Because in an effort to make engines more fuel efficient and wring more power out of the cubic inches available, engineers have cut back on things like extra piston rings that scrub the cylinder walls to retain oil, because they add to the engine friction load and rob horsepower.
So while modern engines are much more powerful for their size than they used to be, one of the tradeoffs is a potential for increased oil consumption.
Also, I suspect a lot of people don't even check their oil, and don't even know they need some added.
I have always changed my own oil and filter since purchasing my first car, a used 1956 Ford bought at Seattle's Westside Ford in 1961. In those days a loss of one quart in 3000-5000 miles was common. By the time I purchased a new '84 T-bird my concerns of oil use between changes were gone. Today I typically drain about 1/4 to 1/3 of a quart less than what I last put into the engine. That's across a 93 Ford Ranger, a 92 LS400, a 94 Ford AWD Aerostar, an '01 AWD RX300, an '01 E50 based MH, and a '01 911/996 C4.
I suspect that these days you must have something seriously wrong in order to "burn" through a quart of oil in 3000-5000 miles.
And yes, Porsche is one of the marques that will tell you that one quart in 1000 miles is not out of line. But on the other hand my exeriences with four Porsches, a 78 Targa, and 88 Carrera, a '99 C2, and now my current '01 C4, all put the lie to that.
If the Toyota is burning oil then IMHO it is one of 2 things:
1. The engine is defective. Manufacturers cover their butts by saying its normal, but I'd say its definitely not the experience the vast majority of Toyota owners have and therefore is why I say it is not normal.
2. The vehicle was ran hard right off the lot and not broken in properly.
The only engine in which oil consumption is normal right off the bat is a 2-stroke.
a manufacturer may say it's acceptable to add a quart of oil every 3000 miles, but it's not normal. the reason they say it is acceptable is because performance will be the same and the chances are the car will run fine past the 60,000 mile warranty most drive trains now have.
i'm curious if this is something you just made up, or do you have documentation from a reputable source?
As far as documentation, no, I have not made a practice of storing such info, but I have read of at least a half-dozen manufacturers that say 1 quart per thousand is "acceptable". Not saying I agree with them, and there can be no doubt that there is a strong element of CYA in those statements, but the fact is an engine can function perfectly in terms of power and fuel efficiency, even while burning a little oil. So where is the defect?
If you are too lazy to check the oil once a month I have no sympathy for you. And to say the engine is "defective" if you have the crushing burden of having to add a $3 quart of oil in 5,000 miles is ridiculous.
fwiw, I never have to add oil to my '99 Quest with 121,000 on it, but my '97 Outback with 65k uses a bit of oil now and then. It was a half quart low last week but I may not have topped it off when I changed the oil last (the dipstick in the Outback is difficult to make heads or tails of).
Some other oil consumption posts (found with the Advanced Search tool) involve the Audi A3, Caddy CTS, Nissan Altima and Chevy Impalas (GM's 5.3L).
Doesn't seem to be a very big issue except with Troopers though.
The service shop did not find anything to pinpoint this- just some computer glitch according to them. Cleared out the codes and said that chance of this happening again is 1 in a million. Well guess what, the check engine/VSC/skid lights have come back on. Will be taking it back to the dealer tomorrow. Anybody have ideas/experience with this??
2 things already went wrong:
The front Pax door cannot be unlocked by remote or by open from inside, while the other 3 doors were OK, during the coldest day in MA. Then suddenly it worked again in the 4th day after happened. My wife already made appointment w/dealer so we sent the car in for checking the suspected liquid drip mark on ground located under between 2 rear wheels. Dealer found 1 of the shock is defective. It's not in stock & has to be ordered and another appointment is scheduled for this week.
emission and vsc lights are back on. What next? Did I get hosed by the dealer with
the $500.00 dollar replacement of the vsc sensor?
Anytime the engine shows a fault the VSC (& TC) "failure" light will come on by default, it is MEANINGLESS. Fix the engine problem and the VSC fault will clear automatically.
Just as it states in your owners manual.
dmcshaw