I have the same thing. I took it in for service (12k as well). The comment on the service invoice said "it was within normal working parameters". I'm not exactly a small guy (6ft, 210lbs), but by no means over any limits for the seat. I've given in to just live with it. Let me know if there is anything you get done! You are obviously in Canada, maybe its a Canada outie issue?
Thanks for the reply! Yes, I live in Alberta, and I am the same size as you. I will be going in for my 18,000km oil change probably mid next week (Oct. 3). The exact day will depend on when the Outlander Technician is working at my dealer. I will have him/her look at the seat and also address TSB 07-13-007 and TSB 07-23-006. I will most definitely post an update once I'm finished.
I'll tell ya, I am really confused on how often I should change the oil. The manual recommends 7k miles for normal and something like 3.5k miles (I think?) for severe usage, but when I bought mine, the dealer said a 12k mile schedule, which I find hard to believe. So I am a bit confused about which I should do. No matter how which I choose, I think I will get the first oil change about 3k miles and then start a schedule after that. Does anyone have any words of wisdom? Thanks
Fwiw, I do mine at 7,500 miles per the normal service recommendations in the manual for my Nissan, but you'll get a lot of slippery opinions as to that question. :shades:
OK, call me old-fashioned, but I've changed oil every 3K or 3 months whichever comes first, and have never had an oil-related mechanical engine failure in over 40 years of driving. My vehicle(s) always see severe service, mostly stop-and-go city driving with a maximum of 5 miles one way to work, thus I would rather be safe than sorry.
Slippery opinions indeed. However, I would never accept an oil change interval of every 12K miles.
Let's see - I first got pulled over by a cop when I was 13 ... I'm just about 55 now. Yep, 40 years for me too. :shades: I finally weaned myself of the 3,000 mile oil myth about 15 years ago. Oil, even conventional oil, is lots better than it used to be.
Let's see. ABC Lube won't make a living if our car never go to change oil. (Well, excluse those who change oil by our self.)
DEF oil company won't make any money, again, if we don't hcange the oils often. (Hmm, 7500mi verse 3000mi, they just double the profit.)
GHI car company won't make any money, again, if our car doesn't break down. (Then again, judging from a person don't send the car to factory maintain point of view.)
They all tweak the facts to their sides and purposely confuse us. More confuse we are, we tend to easily to give out money away easily. The same company that will inflate the milages, deny the consistent defects.... and vise versa on oil and oil change company.
Well, knowing that I can't trust all of them. (do you?) To give myself a piece in mind. I live by the formula (3000 + 7500)/2 = 5250 miles.
That's how I set on change oil every 5000 miles. :P
Can someone please tell me the correct Mitsu oil filter part number for the 2007 V6? I went to dealer #1 to pick up a few of them and the guy gave me MZ690116 (it's wider and looks like it wouldnt have clearance of the oil drip plate). So I call another dealer [#2]and was told its MD360935 (which is the number on my orig factory filter on my vehicle). Knowing that factory numbers can get superceeded/replaced and such, and for the plain heck of it, I call another dealer [#3] to see if I can hopefully get two of the same answer and go with that. But that guy tells me MD360935 is old and to use MZ69072 ! Wow.
I have been using Wix 51356 which is a lot better than factory stuff. If you cant get the wix, napa gold 1356 is exact copy/rebadge. If you want the absolute best, go for Amsoil Eao13. You cant go wrong with either of these. Wix/napa gold will go for 10k miles while Amsoil will go for 20k but costs a tad bit more. I just reuse my filters after draining them.
Insolubles come in under 0.3 typically for the above mentioned ones after long OCIs which are impossible with pure cellulose paper material of factory stuff. Also, keep in mind that factory filter does not come with ADBV (anti drain back valve) leave alone a quality one (fram has cardboard not silicon adbv and hence it stops working soon).
ADBV prevents oil from draining back to sump when engine is cut off. Since most wear occurs at startup, thats priceless. Also, EaO is pure nano fibre while wix has hybrid glass/cellulose. More importantly, construction of these filters are high quality with more area of filter media. Factory junk ends up pricier over long run and less efficient. You just pay the stealership more and take more startup wear..thats all.
Looks like my first reply took an error and aborted, lets try posting it again... growwise, thank you for the alternate filter suggestions. I have used Wix/Napa Gold in the past and liked them. I have cracked open many filters over the years (isn't EVERYONE curious to see whats inside and how its built? ha). I agree, not a fan of Fram after seeing the filter media spot glued to a thin piece of cardboard. My personal thing is that I tend to use the manufacturer filter while under warranty. One is not supposed to have to do so, but I want to avoid any question/aggravation should anything go wrong. I would hope that Mitsu (or Denso)would not skimp on their filter specs. I feel comfortable using it also because I had two Toyota SUVs the exclusively used Toyota (Denso) filters and both went high mileage. BTW, it looks like the MZ690072 I just picked up has an ADBV, but I cant speak to the other Mitsu filter numbers.
Well I guess at 10 yrs/100k you got a long time to use the factory filters before you're out of warranty ;-) My my wife's 2006 Chevy on the other hand will be out soon (22K miles in 1 yr on a 36K warranty)They say just keep receipts to show your purchased oil/filters and I bet they can check the history of how long between resets (assuming one is honest resetting it)
I do not have an owner's manual and the diagram in the lid for the (driver's side) under hood fuse box does not identify which fuse location is for the Cigar Lighter outlet or which fuse location is for the Center Console Power Outlet. Can anyone help me identify the correct locations for these 2 fuses and can anyone confirm that I should use yellow 20amp fuses for both?
Question has been answered. Fuse diagram and location is inside vehicle, behind drivers side coin holder. Plastic coin holder fold down tray snaps out, and diagram is on the back of coin tray. Fuse panel is behind this opening. There is one fuse location for both the cigar lighter and center console power outlets, and is marked with a lit cigar symbol. The separate fuse location marked with a male plug symbol probably refers to the rear storage area power outlet. Both locations use a 15a fuse.
I just changed my oil to synthetic at 2200 miles. I followed the instructions about stepping through the functions with the ignition off and depressing the button part way to clear (it was at something like 5300 miles to service)now instead of showing 7500 to service it says something like 12800 instead of the 7500 I expected and I cannot reset it again following the same instructions.
comem47, I just had the same thing happen today. Changed my oil at 2800 miles. I reset the maint reminder following instructions I found on different web boards (they were the same procedure/steps). It had been reading 5200 miles to service. With the ignition off, I held the Info button for 2-3 seconds, the wrench began blinking, I hit the Info button again once quickly..it showed Clear and then showed 12200 miles to next service. I also tried re-doing the procedure and it does not change it, still now shows 12200. I guess the question is..is this maint reminder supposed to track just the oil changes at 7500 mi intervals? Or is it tracking other services as well? Because the math [mileage] just doesnt add up. Other cars that I've owned typically showed mileage interval or showed oil life percentage, but resetting it always brought you back to the beginning [7500k or 5000k countdowns or 100% Life, depending on the model car]. Hope someone can help us out here.
Had the same thing happen to me. Somehow the reset also resets the interval that you currently use. There are different settings for North America (6, i think), Europe(3 or 4) and Japan (3, I think) that you can scroll through. Somehow mine eventually got stuck showing "service engine now" and I got frustrated and just turned the service reminder off. I spoke to my dealer about it and the service guys all said that there is a problem with the display. No mention of an update to the firmware coming, just that there is a problem with it.
Thanks for the info on this. In the mean time I've driven several hundred miles and tried to reset it and still no luck (somehow I thought it was being clever and wouldn't let you do it too soon, but no, that's not it). I think Mitsubishi has some odd quirks in user-friendliness they really should address. (I like my wife's Malibu much better on the oil reset -where it figures out engine revolutions vs temp to predict the change and no funny business to reset. Another quirk is I got stopped last night for no rear lights. The Outlander should not illuminate gauges at night fooling you that the lights are on (once again they automatically are on in the Chevy). My mistake, but it's an easy one to make. Gotta force myself to look for the orange glow of the radio to know I've really turned them on!
I agree 100% on the rear lights. I've done that many times myself. Driven with the taillights off. Especially if you've owned a GM car when the lights turn on automatically.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
Wow,2 months have past since my last post. To update the creaking/groaning seat post, when i went in for my 18,0000km oil change my dealer actually disassembled the seat pan, worked on the guts of it ( the heater maybe??) and there are no creaks any more. it has been 2 silent, creak-free months. see ya.
I assume that must be an important performance issues when and engine is DOHC or SOHC. I know that the Honda Pilot also has a SOHC engine. But why not to have a DOHC in the 2008 Outlander as the majority of SUV have? What are the reasons? Could somebody give some comments on this?
SOHC is used to save space and cost besides being less complex. Single valvetrain instead of two (one on either side in v6). You can find that marketing schpiel in the following link for 6B31 engine.
If you can read between the lines, lessons learnt from previous gen 6G7 engine used in dodge/mitsu. Valveguides seeping/oil consumption addressed, shot cyl heads/cooling, head gasket failure etc.
This is odd... I was told by a mechanic to remove the computer and the ignition fuse out of my 2004 Outlander to prevent my ex from stealing the car and after removing these and putting them back in when I want to use it ( I did this a handful of times ) my Service Engine Light came on. Can anyone tell me why it came on and how to fix this?
If you go the the Japanese Outlander web site in the accessories catalogue you will see that the proper Mitsu part number is MD360935 for the Outlander. Oil filters for one trim is usable for all the trims of that model.
i was wondering if anyone could tell me if the ring around the 12v power outlet located right under heat controls is supossed to be lite up. i had to have dealer replace something on dash and they took it apart. wanted to make sure everything was put back right, thanks
Has anyone else had the transmission suddenly go into third and not release without placing in neutral? Happened a couple of times while decelerating on a hill - real freaky surprise.
My LS shift's down also its a feature to help improve brake pad and rotor life,not a bad thing. As you probably know the transmission will not shift up in manual mode so just return to drive mode and it will shift back as soon as there's negative hold back from the wheels.Being I live in north western North Carolina where there's nothing but mountain's I like it. ANOTHER UNHAPPY OUTLANDER OWNER but this is not the reason.
Received a recall notice today. Says it affects '07 and'08 Outlanders WITHOUT power seats. Theres a connecter under the front floorboard which can get wet from wet shoes, corrode and possibly cause a fire.
If anyone does not recieve the recall notice, there's a number for Mitsubishi Customer Relations given: 888-648-7820
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
US(certain states) and canada is having a recall for 2007-2008 outlanders built prior to jan 2008, it's regarding the wires under the front seats that might cause fire due to corrosion. contact mitsu # given by toomayfumes or go to this link for details
You'll have to go to the main page and drill down - your link won't get you to the Outlander results. You have to start at the recall search page.
A shortcut would be to put in the NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number of 08V094000.
I guess this is a big deal if your Outlander is at risk for catching fire, but in the overall scheme of things, ~5400 affected vehicles is pretty small. GM & Toyota recalled over 600,000 cars this week (Reuters).
I also see you can get a summary of TSBs from this site (but must pay for details). Anyone know that the tow hitch TSB is about? I already had the driveability TSBs applied
Make : MITSUBISHI Model : OUTLANDER Year : 2007 Manufacturer : MITSUBISHI MOTORS NORTH AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Number : 0651002 Date of Bulletin : NOV 22, 2006 NHTSA Item Number : 10020985 Component : OTHER Summary : ACCESORY TOW HITCH INSTALLATION. *KB
I guess I'll ask what the tow hitch thing is about when I have the power seat connector addressed (got my notice in the mail a few minutes ago). I installed the factory hitch myself (and fog lights) from a discounted Mitsu dealer on the internet as my LS didn't come with either (and I wasn't up for paying retail plus install costs). While at it I'm going to see if they can explain why the oil service reset does not reset properly (I've changed the oil twice myself and the service interval number keeps jumping up, not down when I activate it. (It now says something like 16.5K till the next service) If it's a special thing that only they can do then I'll just live with it (I do my own synthetic oil changes and have no desire to pay more and drive the distance for them to do it.)
Recall for power seat harness connector is applicable to 07 Outlander registered in specific states listed, not for all US.
I can't find the TSB for tow hitch. Would someone post it if you have a soft copy? Thx.
Make : MITSUBISHI Model : OUTLANDER Year : 2007 Manufacturer : MITSUBISHI MOTORS NORTH AMERICA, INC. Mfr's Report Date : FEB 21, 2008 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 08V094000 N/A NHTSA Action Number: N/A Component: SEATS Potential Number Of Units Affected : 5400 Summary: MITSUBISHI IS RECALLING 5,400 MY 2007-2008 OUTLANDER PASSENGER VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, KENTUCKY, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, VIRGINIA, WEST VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. FOR VEHICLES WITHOUT AN ELECTRIC POWER SEAT, THE FLOOR HARNESS CONNECTOR FOR THE POWER SEAT IS PLACED DIRECTLY ON THE FLOORBOARD UNDERNEATH THE CARPETING (VEHICLES WITH POWER SEATS ALREADY HAVE THE HARNESS ELEVATED). IF A VEHICLE OCCUPANT ENTERS THE VEHICLE WITH A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF SNOW ON THEIR FEET CONTAINING ROAD SALT, IT IS POSSIBLE FOR THE MELTED SNOW MIXTURE TO SOAK THE CARPET AND ALLOW THE SALT-WATER SOLUTION TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE UNUSED POWER SEAT HARNESS CONNECTOR. Consequence: THE CONNECTOR TERMINAL MAY CORRODE AND ALLOW CURRENT TO FLOW, RESULTING IN THE GRADUAL HEATING AND MELTING OF THE CONNECTOR AND MAY RESULT IN A FIRE. Remedy: DEALERS WILL RELOCATE THE FLOOR HARNESS FROM BENEATH BOTH THE PASSENGER AND DRIVER SEATS TO ABOVE THE CARPET AND AWAY FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE FLOORBOARD TO PREVENT CONTACT WITH ANY FUTURE MELT SOLUTION. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 7, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT MITSUBISHI AT 1-800-222-0037. Notes: CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
The replacement of fluids in the Outlander is of paramount importance that these tasks can be done by everybody with a bit of handy skills and a few tools that can be bought in Wal-Mart. Some fluids can be bought from any garage and some has to be bought from a Mitsubishi garage. Mitsubishi also sell a workshop manual for each Mitsubishi model. Part department can help.
Fluids that we need to buy from a Mitsubishi garage (with the exception of the engine oil) are:
1- Engine oil e.g. 5W-30 (the grade of the oil is in your owner manual) 2- Brake fluid (e.g. 4 DOT)
Other items can be also bought form a Mitsubishi garage:
1- Oil filter 2- Air filter (engine) 3- Air filter (interior) 4- Spark plugs (platinum) - can be bought from any garages. Specifications are needed. 5- Ignition cables (this job better to be done by a Mitsubishi technician) 6- Timing belt (this job better to be done by a Mitsubishi technician) 7- Drive belts (this job better to be done by a Mitsubishi technician) 8- Disc brake pads kits
A lot of money can be saved and the warranty of the vehicle is not undermined as far as you keep the invoices of the items you bought.
These are my suggestions about fluids in the Outlander (Change according vehicle mileage).
Oil Engine: 10W-40 or 10W-30 or 5W-30 or 5W-40. Change every 6000 miles (new filter + new gasket). Buy from any garage. ATF: Diamond ATF SP-III or SK ATF SP-III (from Mitsubishi dealership) Rear Axle Oil: SAE 80W/90 (API-GL5) e.g. Shell Spirax. Transfer Case: SAE 80W/90 (API-GL5) e.g. Shell Spirax. Power Steering: PSF-III or PSF-IV (very low temperatures). Buy from Mitsubishi dealership. Brake: DOT 4 (Buy from any garage) Coolant: Ethylene glycol base for aluminum radiator. Buy from Mitsubishi dealership.
I bought my new 2007 Outlander back in Oct/07 here in Canada. I did receive the harness recall notice and took it into the local dealer here in Victoria,BC. Since it was due for a 12,000km warranty service, I had them take care of it which in turn turned into a problem. The mechanic noticed an oil leak coming form the front of the engine around the crankshaft area that was dripping onto the oil pan. They proceeded to investigate by opening up the front engine compartment, etc and found after even more dismantling that an entire O-RING had not been installed at all during the building of my vehicle. In turn Japan head office was notified of the problem and I am waiting to find out if any other vehicles may have suffered the same dilemma as mine has. Over all, I love my Outlander. I also own a 2004 Galant bought New.It's been the best long distance highway trip car I've ever had. I would suggest that all 2007 Outlander owners examine the vehicle's engine compartment to check for a frontal oil leak or have the mechanic inspect it during your next oil change. It could effect a recall on some of the other Outlanders.
Did you notice any oil drip on the ground or the oil wouldn't reach the ground so you wouldn't know unless you put the car on the hoist and closely inspect?
I didn't notice any new drip as it was parked on the gravelled part of the driveway. The lealer's mechanic noticed the leak when it was put up onto the hoist to rotate the tires, check the brakes and change the oil. They were shocked. It's the first reported case of such a problem. It's been fixed now.
The driver door window motor sounds like it is working, but the window has come off track or something and will not go up or down. Can I fix this myself? And if I can... Are there any improtant points to make it as easy as possible or special tools I need that you can share with me for my daughter and I to do the job? thank you for your time and this resource w womack
Comments
Fwiw, I do mine at 7,500 miles per the normal service recommendations in the manual for my Nissan, but you'll get a lot of slippery opinions as to that question. :shades:
Slippery opinions indeed. However, I would never accept an oil change interval of every 12K miles.
ABC Lube won't make a living if our car never go to change oil. (Well, excluse those who change oil by our self.)
DEF oil company won't make any money, again, if we don't hcange the oils often. (Hmm, 7500mi verse 3000mi, they just double the profit.)
GHI car company won't make any money, again, if our car doesn't break down. (Then again, judging from a person don't send the car to factory maintain point of view.)
They all tweak the facts to their sides and purposely confuse us. More confuse we are, we tend to easily to give out money away easily. The same company that will inflate the milages, deny the consistent defects.... and vise versa on oil and oil change company.
Well, knowing that I can't trust all of them. (do you?)
To give myself a piece in mind. I live by the formula
(3000 + 7500)/2 = 5250 miles.
That's how I set on change oil every 5000 miles.
:P
Insolubles come in under 0.3 typically for the above mentioned ones after long OCIs which are impossible with pure cellulose paper material of factory stuff. Also, keep in mind that factory filter does not come with ADBV (anti drain back valve) leave alone a quality one (fram has cardboard not silicon adbv and hence it stops working soon).
ADBV prevents oil from draining back to sump when engine is cut off. Since most wear occurs at startup, thats priceless. Also, EaO is pure nano fibre while wix has hybrid glass/cellulose. More importantly, construction of these filters are high quality with more area of filter media. Factory junk ends up pricier over long run and less efficient. You just pay the stealership more and take more startup wear..thats all.
growwise, thank you for the alternate filter suggestions.
I have used Wix/Napa Gold in the past and liked them. I have cracked open many filters over the years (isn't EVERYONE curious to see whats inside and how its built? ha).
I agree, not a fan of Fram after seeing the filter media spot glued to a thin piece of cardboard.
My personal thing is that I tend to use the manufacturer filter while under warranty. One is not supposed to have to do so, but I want to avoid any question/aggravation should anything go wrong. I would hope that Mitsu (or Denso)would not skimp on their filter specs. I feel comfortable using it also because I had two Toyota SUVs the exclusively used Toyota (Denso) filters and both went high mileage.
BTW, it looks like the MZ690072 I just picked up has an ADBV, but I cant speak to the other Mitsu filter numbers.
My my wife's 2006 Chevy on the other hand will be out soon (22K miles in 1 yr on a 36K warranty)They say just keep receipts to show your purchased oil/filters and I bet they can check the history of how long between resets (assuming one is honest resetting it)
Anyone been there? ideas? Thanks.
6B31 New Outlander MIVEC 3.0 SOHC V6
If you can read between the lines, lessons learnt from previous gen 6G7 engine used in dodge/mitsu. Valveguides seeping/oil consumption addressed, shot cyl heads/cooling, head gasket failure etc.
6G7x Previous iteration Mitsu/Chrysler 3.0 SOHC V6
But give credit where it is due.. less weight due to less cast iron, longer stroke for better torque and detuned compression for 87 octane etc.
For some reasons the MD360935 is not sold in the USA.
If anyone does not recieve the recall notice, there's a number for Mitsubishi Customer Relations given: 888-648-7820
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/results.cfm
hope this helps
A shortcut would be to put in the NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number of 08V094000.
I guess this is a big deal if your Outlander is at risk for catching fire, but in the overall scheme of things, ~5400 affected vehicles is pretty small. GM & Toyota recalled over 600,000 cars this week (Reuters).
Anyone know that the tow hitch TSB is about? I already had the driveability TSBs applied
Make : MITSUBISHI Model : OUTLANDER Year : 2007
Manufacturer : MITSUBISHI MOTORS NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Service Bulletin Number : 0651002 Date of Bulletin : NOV 22, 2006
NHTSA Item Number : 10020985
Component : OTHER
Summary :
ACCESORY TOW HITCH INSTALLATION. *KB
It'd be my luck to pay for one, and have the TSB read "please correct the spelling of Mitsubishi on page 6 of the Owner's Manual".
addressed (got my notice in the mail a few minutes ago). I installed the factory hitch myself (and fog lights) from a discounted Mitsu dealer on the internet as my LS didn't come with either (and I wasn't up for paying retail plus install costs). While at it I'm going to see if they can explain why the oil service reset does not reset properly (I've changed the oil twice myself and the service interval number keeps jumping up, not down when I activate it. (It now says something like 16.5K till the next service) If it's a special thing that only they can do then I'll just live with it (I do my own synthetic oil changes and have no desire to pay more and drive the distance for them to do it.)
I can't find the TSB for tow hitch. Would someone post it if you have a soft copy? Thx.
Make : MITSUBISHI Model : OUTLANDER Year : 2007
Manufacturer : MITSUBISHI MOTORS NORTH AMERICA, INC. Mfr's Report Date : FEB 21, 2008
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 08V094000
N/A
NHTSA Action Number: N/A
Component: SEATS
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 5400
Summary:
MITSUBISHI IS RECALLING 5,400 MY 2007-2008 OUTLANDER PASSENGER VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, KENTUCKY, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, VIRGINIA, WEST VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. FOR VEHICLES WITHOUT AN ELECTRIC POWER SEAT, THE FLOOR HARNESS CONNECTOR FOR THE POWER SEAT IS PLACED DIRECTLY ON THE FLOORBOARD UNDERNEATH THE CARPETING (VEHICLES WITH POWER SEATS ALREADY HAVE THE HARNESS ELEVATED). IF A VEHICLE OCCUPANT ENTERS THE VEHICLE WITH A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF SNOW ON THEIR FEET CONTAINING ROAD SALT, IT IS POSSIBLE FOR THE MELTED SNOW MIXTURE TO SOAK THE CARPET AND ALLOW THE SALT-WATER SOLUTION TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE UNUSED POWER SEAT HARNESS CONNECTOR.
Consequence:
THE CONNECTOR TERMINAL MAY CORRODE AND ALLOW CURRENT TO FLOW, RESULTING IN THE GRADUAL HEATING AND MELTING OF THE CONNECTOR AND MAY RESULT IN A FIRE.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL RELOCATE THE FLOOR HARNESS FROM BENEATH BOTH THE PASSENGER AND DRIVER SEATS TO ABOVE THE CARPET AND AWAY FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE FLOORBOARD TO PREVENT CONTACT WITH ANY FUTURE MELT SOLUTION. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 7, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT MITSUBISHI AT 1-800-222-0037.
Notes:
CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
Fluids that we need to buy from a Mitsubishi garage (with the exception of the engine oil) are:
1- Rear axle fluid (limited differential)
2- Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
3- Transfer Case Fluid
4- Steering (wheel) fluid
5- Coolant fluid
You can have from any garage the following:
1- Engine oil e.g. 5W-30 (the grade of the oil is in your owner manual)
2- Brake fluid (e.g. 4 DOT)
Other items can be also bought form a Mitsubishi garage:
1- Oil filter
2- Air filter (engine)
3- Air filter (interior)
4- Spark plugs (platinum) - can be bought from any garages. Specifications are needed.
5- Ignition cables (this job better to be done by a Mitsubishi technician)
6- Timing belt (this job better to be done by a Mitsubishi technician)
7- Drive belts (this job better to be done by a Mitsubishi technician)
8- Disc brake pads kits
A lot of money can be saved and the warranty of the vehicle is not undermined as far as you keep the invoices of the items you bought.
Oil Engine: 10W-40 or 10W-30 or 5W-30 or 5W-40. Change every 6000 miles (new filter + new gasket). Buy from any garage.
ATF: Diamond ATF SP-III or SK ATF SP-III (from Mitsubishi dealership)
Rear Axle Oil: SAE 80W/90 (API-GL5) e.g. Shell Spirax.
Transfer Case: SAE 80W/90 (API-GL5) e.g. Shell Spirax.
Power Steering: PSF-III or PSF-IV (very low temperatures). Buy from Mitsubishi dealership.
Brake: DOT 4 (Buy from any garage)
Coolant: Ethylene glycol base for aluminum radiator. Buy from Mitsubishi dealership.
parking brake cable mechanism,
hood,
door latches
seat adjuster,
tailgate latch
door hinges, and
tailgate hinge.
http://www.kirkwoodmitsubishi.com/docs/documents/REGULARMAINTENANCEMITSUBISHImen- u.pdf
Includes;
Nitro fill in tires,
BG MOA oil fortifier,
Power Steering flush,
Air Induction Service,
Clean & Adjust rear brakes.
What a rip-off.
I declined the $391 service and went to a certified ASE shop.
Does anybody know the value of the standard torque applied to oil plug (sealer) of a 2008 Outlander V6?
Does anybody know the value of the standard torque applied to the oil filter canister of a 2008 Outlander V6?
Thanks,
I would suggest that all 2007 Outlander owners examine the vehicle's engine compartment to check for a frontal oil leak or have the mechanic inspect it during your next oil change. It could effect a recall on some of the other Outlanders.