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Separately, or maybe not, my transmission won't work in Drive anymore, but I can get it to run in Rev or in the 1 position only. In First only, it doesn't shift to 2 and 3, so it doesn't appear to be a position problem.
Any ideas?
Bob
We've had three mechanics look at it ~ We've replaced the computer, most sensors, and the fuel pump (shows 60 pounds of pressure).
The electronic tester says the problem is a code 26, which no one seems to know the meaning of.
We really love this old van and want to get the problem worked out ~ Does anyone out there have any ideas or advice?
e-mail: dona at 4littlefeet@bowlinggreen.net
You can get the trouble codes by turning your key in the ignition 3 times. so off-on-off-on off on (without turning the car over) the engine light will blink. a sequence of blinks, a pause then miore blinks. so 3 blinks followed by 2 blinks is code 32.
New fuel and filter.
It will run and start like brand new for a couple of weeks then it wont do anything but run for a couple of sec.
No lights on dash show.ligts,radio,heat everything will work except the gas gage,oil light.etc.
Then it shuts down.
Hey, its a great car when it runs.
This is a sensor problem but the issue is in the wiring. My plan is to start at the computer and follow the wires to the crank sensor, cam sensor, and coil. Good luck if you can find a mecanic willing to do this. I hard wired these sensors and it worked (in dry weather). There must be a wiring/ground issue and it will take patience to find it.
So - my advice, since you have replaced the crank sensor, then either remove the connector and hard wire it or cram the connector full of that electrical grease and reconnect. I tried this but it didn't last.
Best Regards.
Shipo
Has anyone ever seen or heard of this problem? I want to take it back to the dealer, but I know they are not going to find anything wrong unless it happens right there and then!! Like I say it has only happened 4 times so far and is more that likely to happen again, but we all know that things like this don't happen when you want them to!!
Thanks for any help!! Sorry if I have posted in the wrong place!!
Did you ever get this issue resolved? It's just that I have a 2005 SE with the exact same problem, I just did a tune up and seems to me that is getting progressively worse.
Thanks!
Luis.
I have had this van at the dodge dealer and it hooked up to the machine that tells what is wrong and it comes back nothing wrong.
When it doesn't run the anti theif light comes on and the van will run for a couple of min.then it dies right out as if someone is trying to steal it.
the Anti Theif divice is a add on and did not come with the van.I took the wire off that was wired into the fuse and as soon as I did that it started.
i sure hope this has helped you because this is driving me nuts.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Craig
It had been to the dealer and hooked up to the tester.They could not find the problem but I noticed it would run for a couple of seconds and nothing on the dash would lite up.
Message would pop up saying Anti-Thieft.
I thought that sounds as if there is something wrong with the Anti-thief system that was a add on and not put on by the manufactor.
I disconected the (red wire) that was going into a fuse so far no problem it has started and stayed .
I sure hope this might help you.
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This is where is gets weird. If below freezing, when the motor is stone cold, it starts right up and idles fine without touching the pedal!?!?
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Also, after 15-20 miles, the check engine light comes on but it continues to run great and the engine will start/stop without any problems at all.
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Leave it in the cold for a few hours (35-50 degrees) and you must pump the pedal or it just cranks.
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I cleaned the Idle Air Control unit, Oxygen Sensor, replaced the intake manifold gaskets, fixed vacuum leaks, installed new plugs & wires, cleaned and oiled the K&N filter, replaced the coil / ignition pack, fuel pump, installed a new battery and tested fuel pressure.
It now runs great but the identical cold start problem persists.
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I have had this vehicle for 2 years and this problem has persisted. During the summer months (65 degrees +) the problem seems to dissipate.
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During these cold New England winters, if I leave the vehicle outdoors (sub 35 degrees) for several hours, it starts right up (no pedal) and runs fine. However, I garage the Van in 40-50 degree garage overnight and every morning I must pump the pedal or it just cranks. It then miss-fires for a couple of minutes and then runs just fine.
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Also, I check my fuel mileage on every tank and it's always around 16 mpg around town and can climb to 20 on long highway trips. Also, it does not burn a drop of oil and the plugs burn very clean.
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It NEVER stalls once warm and it ALWAYS cranks over. The check engine light faithfully comes on after 15-20 miles of highway driving.
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I have had several mechanics look at it and it has stumped them all.
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Any ideas (particularly inexpensive ones) would be greatly appreciated
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Thanks,
Joe
cobra_joe_s@hotmail.com
Problems stared a month ago with intermittent check engine light/rough running. Mechanic replaced O2 sensor based on code.
Intermittent check engine light/rough continued.
Several trips to mechanic resulted in "dunno" as problem would not manifest itself.. ( thought it was the wife at this point)
They replaced ECM cuz problem finally appeared for mechanics and when tapping on ECM the check engine light would go away.
Problem returned, same error code and mechanic went with fuel injector cleaner.
Chec engine light did not appear but then out of know where engine just would die, luckily at gradual aceleration from a stop (engine was warm, no check engine light warnings on some occasions).
Mechanics went back to schematics and checked wiring and unable to find anything.
Problem with unexpected engine loss went away for a few days but then returned, and persisted for several start/stop iterations. Luckily it was right after Carmax inspected and wrote offer for $750.
Let it sit for an hour and engine loss after start returns. Note, it stays running if I keep rpms up, not around idle speed.
My guess is:
The vehicle has a "Micro-lock" anti theft device that is for ignition cutoff at start that I suspect may not be malfunctioning. Problem is I can't find boo on the company via Internet or local dealer that has schematics.
100k question now is:
What do you think? Any suggestions welcome!
Keep us posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Keep us posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
A thorough inspection of the wiring revealed nothing remarkable. I was told the computer has nothing to do with the initial starting function, and the problem was probably the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, etc. Without a wiring diagram
I'm stuck. Any ideas on what I should look for? Thanks up front, Tom
Any ideas? My mechanic is stumped and it not the type to just start putting things in and charging without knowing if he will fix it.
Thanks
It's been in the shop (local shade tree mechanic with 30+ years under the hood) and he's baffled. He's gone thru extensive diagontics and replaced thermostat and manifold pressure sensors.
It's tempermental and does not act up when he's chasing the problem. So, I'm open to anyone that's solved this mystery. It's been acting up since mid May. Otherwise, it's a solid van.
It's a $40 buck sensor but on top of about $400 in diagontics. Not to mention the fuel injection flush, thermostat, manifold pressure sensor and that air induction gizzmo.
I hope this helps some other poor fool.....