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Comments
I have never entered this data into a spreadsheet so it would not be trivial for me to get the data you request.
I *can* tell you that (like all other vehicles) the MPG is less in the cold weather and higher when the ambient temp. goes up.
BTW: The last 2 tankfulls registerd over 700 miles between fillups. :shades:
I only want to enter the numbers ONE TIME into computer... then be able to view/graph the MPG to my hearts content. Poking all those numbers into a calculator is not my idea of fun pasttime.
Also, does the shop you take it to have a scanner that understands VOLKSWAGEN codes (not just ODBII) I find it VERY unusual that there is no code logged. The VW codes which are not part of ODBII may not lite the CEL.
CEL = Check Engine Light
ODBII = Onboard Diagnostics (version 2)
Here are more details:
- The noise is similar to that of a small moped -- like trrrrrrr
- The noise is like if a small piece of plastic is brushing against the fan or the drive shaft.
- This sometimes comes when driving - but not always. This makes me think that it could be related to transmission fluid
- While stationary, when the engine is on, it never makes that noise even with 2000-3000 rpm
My car has done 71k miles and i just had an engine oil change.
Do I need to change the transmission oil also periodically. I have had this car for about 8k miles and have changed the engine oil every 3k miles but dont have any idea about transmission oil intervals.
In other words...There is enough power in battery to perform a reset sequence.... but not to start engine.
Pix of various VW Ignition Coils for Jetta:
At any rate, I wouldn't drive the car too much in this condition as you might wipe out your catalytic converter, and that would be REAL expensive.
It is VERY easy to replace the coil. 2 bolts hold it in place and make sure the wires are not mixed up.
It is not uncommon for ignition coil to crack and allow moisture to enter. Some folks have reported good luck "patching" a cracked coil with hi-temp silicone caulk. Given that coil is expensive, it may be worth a try.
Also know that any of the ignition (sparkplug) wires could cause the very same symptoms when wet.
I have "fixed" problems simular to yours by simply removing the coil and wires and "washing" them in a tub of soapy water and drying thoroughly. This is because a coating a grunge on the surface of the wires or coil may cause surface-discahrge when it is damp. This is also the only way to locate a crack in a coil.
A 2000 may be due for new ignition wires anyway. (they deteriouate with heat/age)
With engine idling, use a spritzer-bottle (old windex bottle) with water in it. Systematically spritz different ignition components.... when the engine starts to miss, you have located the problem area.
With a good ignition system, you should be able to hose down the engine and it will never miss a beat. (dont try this!, liquid water on a hot engine can cause other issues like a cracked exhaust manifold.)
Also - as a reminder - the "WD" in WD40 stands for Water Displacer. The original purpose of the WD40 product was to drive moisture out of electrical circuits for the US military. WD40 is still the ol' standby to quickly dry out an ignition system. (With engine turned OFF)
Also, for an engine which is mis-firing, you can hold a neon lightbulb near each sparkplug wire and it should flash when the sparkplug fires. If the neon bulb does not flash, then you have located the mis-firing cylinder.
I have 100s of other old-school troubleshooting tricks. Oftentimes, the tried-n-true techniques are better than a computer diagnosis. (Although I do have VAGCOM for my VWs too )
Another thing you might consider trying is This kit which would be a excellent additon to any socket-wrench set.
If a fuel additive reduces some gunk build-up, it would be great.
Also, it is possible that your MAF has degraded over time and is contributing to your perceved performance reduction.
I also STRONGLY suggest you do not change engine oil every 3K miles. It is a waste of your time and $$ with no benifet to your engine. Only the folks that get PAIED to change your oil recommend a 3K mile OCI (Oil Change Interval)
In fact, it has been shown (using oil analysis) that MORE wear particals occour during the 1st 3,000 miles or so after an oilchange. After 3,000 miles, the oil tends to "clean up" by showing a sharp drop in wear particals.
There is no need to deviate from the owners-manual when it comes to OCI.
independent mechanic and he says he can't figure out the problem & doesn't want to just guess and charge me lots of $. If it sits for 5-10 minutes, it will start right up & go another 25 miles. I put in premium gas, had the engine sensopr replaced. HELP!
Lack of oil-changes or using incorrect oil is most often the cause of cruddy lifters. Under "normal" conditions, the lifters will retain their charge of oil and will "pump up" quickly after a cold start.
...but the big question is what can you DO about this...
I would bet money that you are NOT using the recommended SYNTHETIC oil in your 1.8T engine. Although the 2001 owners-manual does not specify SYNTHETIC , there has been an across-the-board update on ALL VW turbocharged engines to use SYNTHETIC oil. Synthetic oil is virtually immune to leaving gunk in the engine.
(Synthetic oil even acts like a detergent to clean a dirty engine)
However, it is a crap-shoot to say weather you can "fix" the problem using just oil or additives. If you are lucky, you might be able to clean the gunk out of the lifters by using some type of oil-additive such as "STP Oil Treatment". After about 1000 miles after treatment, you may notice the problem is gone.
The idea is to use somthing that will disolve the gunk from the lifters...then change the oil to remove the gunk from the engine.
Using a slightly more viscous oil might also improve the cold-start noise. ("STP Oil Treatment" is also a viscosity improver - Makes the oil thicker)
I can tell you that my daughters 1st VW used to make this sound when she first bought it. The STP Oil Treatment made an obvious improvment... (but did not totally eliminate the noise)
On the other hand... your oilpump may be getting weak and is having troubles building up pressure. Any mechanic can put a pressure-guage on your engine to ascertain the status of your oilpump.
replaced it. Naturally, I added coolant and now it overheats. I started guessing that maybe my thermostat was bad but I may be over analyzing. There was absolutly nothing wrong
in terms of temperature until this hose broke. Any suggestions on what it may or may not be?
The problem you describe sounds like you did not "burp" the cooling system. An air-pocket in the system is not able to be pumped by the waterpump.
One way to verify that the waterpump is pumping is to observe the flow of antifreeze into the overflow tank via the small hose that attaches to its side. That hose should be "pissing" antifreeze at all times the engine is running. If not, then there is no flow thru the engine.
Al
Although there may be several mix-n-match pairnings of engine-transmission... it would be wise to keep the same 3-letter engine-code which you currently have. Otherwiese, you would also have to consider engine-computer and perhaps even sensor differences.
Engine starts ok, however, it will not pull itself. Engine will not rev up at all - when I step on the accel. the engine cuts out. Runs rough until the engine warms up - some smoke until it gets hot. Even then, little or no power, and the engine sputters upon putting into gear. It will only get up to around 40mph. Have had two separate diagnostics on it, one indicated the engine was misfiring. Changed the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter. Had the second diagnostic performed by a VW dealer and it indicated the ignition coil was the problem. Have changed this out and the problem remains. I run premium fuel, maintainence is regular - any thoughts on the cat. converter? Other possible problems? Solutions? Many thanks to anyone who responds.
Volkswagen Part No. ZVW 352 540S 5W-40
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40
Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
Kendall GT-1 Full synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Mobil 1 0W-40
Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40
Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40
Total Quartz 9000 5W-40
Valvoline Synpower 5W-30
Valvoline Synpower 5W-40