Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I write down EVERY gallon of diesel/milage that goes into my wifes TDI.... The log is (obviously) out in the car right now and not in my hands.

    I have never entered this data into a spreadsheet so it would not be trivial for me to get the data you request.

    I *can* tell you that (like all other vehicles) the MPG is less in the cold weather and higher when the ambient temp. goes up.

    BTW: The last 2 tankfulls registerd over 700 miles between fillups. :shades:
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 997
    no spreadsheet needed. just add up all the gallons put in the car from beginning mileage to end. then divide miles/gallons.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I understand the concept (I am a computer programmer after all)

    I only want to enter the numbers ONE TIME into computer... then be able to view/graph the MPG to my hearts content. Poking all those numbers into a calculator is not my idea of fun pasttime.
  • whitney26whitney26 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: I am new to this. I have a 1.8t 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg w/ 42+miles. I was driving about 2 miles from my home and it just turned off. After starting 2x, it turned over on the 3rd time. Took it to get repair. No check engine light was not on. Today, again driving it turned off again. Returned it to repair shop, they drove it around and ran it for about an hour and it didn't turned off. I don't know what to do. The repair shop said he didn't want to repair something if nothing is not coming up on the computer. PLEASE HELP!!! Whitney. :(
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Does it do this with any of the other 3 keys which come with every VW? (2 normal keys and one "valet" key) The reason why I ask is that your problem sounds like the immobilizer may be kicking in.

    Also, does the shop you take it to have a scanner that understands VOLKSWAGEN codes (not just ODBII) I find it VERY unusual that there is no code logged. The VW codes which are not part of ODBII may not lite the CEL.

    CEL = Check Engine Light
    ODBII = Onboard Diagnostics (version 2)
  • whitney26whitney26 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for the information. I have been using the first key that I was using. It has not shut off since I wrote but if it does, I will have to take it to a dealer. Thanks again!! Whitney26 :surprise:
  • carolina1carolina1 Member Posts: 5
    Can someone tell me if it's normal for the radiator fan to run while the engine is cool? The other morning I went to my car to look at the motor getting ready to put in a new water pump and the fans were running. The motor was cool, is that normal? Any information will be great. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Did you possibly leave the AC switch on?
  • carolina1carolina1 Member Posts: 5
    No, I don't use the AC. I'd rather have the windows open.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Could be one of the thermal sensors is probably bad. I don't know your particular system but most cars have a sensor to turn on the fan and one to turn it off. There's also a switch that turns the fan on when you turn on the AC, and this might be the problem. So if you checked that switch (relay) that might be the answer. It would keep your cooling fan on all the time if it were defective
  • asifgrkhanasifgrkhan Member Posts: 13
    My 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 L engine & 4 speed auto gearbox has been making a noise for the past some time.
    Here are more details:

    - The noise is similar to that of a small moped -- like trrrrrrr
    - The noise is like if a small piece of plastic is brushing against the fan or the drive shaft.
    - This sometimes comes when driving - but not always. This makes me think that it could be related to transmission fluid
    - While stationary, when the engine is on, it never makes that noise even with 2000-3000 rpm

    My car has done 71k miles and i just had an engine oil change.
    Do I need to change the transmission oil also periodically. I have had this car for about 8k miles and have changed the engine oil every 3k miles but dont have any idea about transmission oil intervals.
  • oyepapi24oyepapi24 Member Posts: 2
    I own an '03 Jetta manual transmission (2.0). For some reason all electrical went off (power windows, radio, lights, clock, etc) when I attempted to start. It appeared as though I had a dead battery, but after a few seconds the lights and all came back on. I attempted to start engine, but all that occurred is that the engine seemed to go through a sequence of checking certain items... power lock on doors unlocked and other clicking/beeping noises came on, but engine did not turn. Then all electrical went off. After waiting a few minutes all electrical came back on, but the same sequence occurred when I attempted to start. Any and all suggestions welcomed!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sure sounds like a dead battery - every time you attempt to put a load on the battery (start engine)... it loses all power and the electrical system resets itself.

    In other words...There is enough power in battery to perform a reset sequence.... but not to start engine.
  • caycee00caycee00 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Jetta automatic 2.0L, this is the most retarded story you will probably ever hear, I took it to the car wash, like autobell and it was running fine, got in it to drive it home and the car starts idleing really rough, I thought maybe the engine was wet or something, let it sit about 24+ hours, went to drive it down the street to the beach, the idleing has gotten worse, the exhaust STINKS, and now the orange check engine light has appeared, any ideas??? I would desperately love not to take it to the VW dealership. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Sounds like a cylinder has cut out, sending unburned fuel to the catalytic, which gives the characteristic smell. Whether it's related to the car wash, who can say? Could be a co-incidence. Once always suspects ignition coils on this type of car.

    Pix of various VW Ignition Coils for Jetta:

  • caycee00caycee00 Member Posts: 5
    Can I fix that myself? Or should this be taken to the shop? would it be BAD to drive it, would this be a super expensive problem to fix?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Maybe once you knew the problem you could fix it but unless you have scanning tools you won't know what's wrong. Yeah ignition coil paks can be expensive, couple hundred bucks at least.
  • caycee00caycee00 Member Posts: 5
    Looks like I will be making an appointment for the shop!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yeah because you wouldn't even know which coil was bad (if that indeed is the problem)

    At any rate, I wouldn't drive the car too much in this condition as you might wipe out your catalytic converter, and that would be REAL expensive.
  • caycee00caycee00 Member Posts: 5
    Well, I just got the catalytic converter replaced like less then 7k miles ago, and then I had a problem with the whole fuel injectors and such, then it drove fine for a while, now it is throwing a temper tantrum again...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 2.0 engine has only ONE coil. Depending on engine-code, the coil-design may differ slightly. (Your 2000 should have the earlier design.)

    It is VERY easy to replace the coil. 2 bolts hold it in place and make sure the wires are not mixed up.

    It is not uncommon for ignition coil to crack and allow moisture to enter. Some folks have reported good luck "patching" a cracked coil with hi-temp silicone caulk. Given that coil is expensive, it may be worth a try.

    Also know that any of the ignition (sparkplug) wires could cause the very same symptoms when wet.

    I have "fixed" problems simular to yours by simply removing the coil and wires and "washing" them in a tub of soapy water and drying thoroughly. This is because a coating a grunge on the surface of the wires or coil may cause surface-discahrge when it is damp. This is also the only way to locate a crack in a coil.

    A 2000 may be due for new ignition wires anyway. (they deteriouate with heat/age)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Also very possible...the spark plug wires. You can google "2000 VW Jetta ignition coil" and get a picture of one. But again, I'd hate to have you be guessing with your checkbook....but....BUT...if the coil and the wires are cheaper than a diagnostic fee, well maybe not a bad idea to take a chance? Whaddya' think bpeebles?
  • caycee00caycee00 Member Posts: 5
    I will definately give it a shot since it is very possible and the diagnostic fee is quite the pretty penny! I appreciate your opinions! Ill be sure to letcha know how it turns out!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    One effective (and inexpensive) way to isolate a moisture-induced igniton problem is with water. (go figure! :surprise: )

    With engine idling, use a spritzer-bottle (old windex bottle) with water in it. Systematically spritz different ignition components.... when the engine starts to miss, you have located the problem area.

    With a good ignition system, you should be able to hose down the engine and it will never miss a beat. (dont try this!, liquid water on a hot engine can cause other issues like a cracked exhaust manifold.)

    Also - as a reminder - the "WD" in WD40 stands for Water Displacer. The original purpose of the WD40 product was to drive moisture out of electrical circuits for the US military. WD40 is still the ol' standby to quickly dry out an ignition system. (With engine turned OFF)

    Also, for an engine which is mis-firing, you can hold a neon lightbulb near each sparkplug wire and it should flash when the sparkplug fires. If the neon bulb does not flash, then you have located the mis-firing cylinder.

    I have 100s of other old-school troubleshooting tricks. Oftentimes, the tried-n-true techniques are better than a computer diagnosis. (Although I do have VAGCOM for my VWs too :D )
  • alijettaalijetta Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 jetta 1.8t and i was putting an amp for my subs and when we put the wire that goes to the battery on i turned on my car and the check engine light was on!!! i dont know if it was because of that.. because earlier taht day went to pump some gas and i had quarter of a tank full with the best gar(forgot what its called) and i just filled it up half way with the cheap one could that of casued it??? some one help me?
  • curtisrose420curtisrose420 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought this 94 Jetta III 2.0 i want to change the spark plugs but I dont know how! Its usually easy to do but it looks like I have to take apart my engine. What do I have to do to change them? Plus has anyone ever had any major problems with the same car?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Have you tried using a Wobble joint extension on your sparkplug wrench?

    Another thing you might consider trying is This kit which would be a excellent additon to any socket-wrench set.
  • asifgrkhanasifgrkhan Member Posts: 13
    Is there a fuel additive available for the 2.0 L VW Engine. My Jetta has done about 72k and while I change oil regularly at 3k miles, i feel degradation in performance.
    If a fuel additive reduces some gunk build-up, it would be great.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Any reputable gasoline additive should clean out the injection system.

    Also, it is possible that your MAF has degraded over time and is contributing to your perceved performance reduction.

    I also STRONGLY suggest you do not change engine oil every 3K miles. It is a waste of your time and $$ with no benifet to your engine. Only the folks that get PAIED to change your oil recommend a 3K mile OCI (Oil Change Interval)

    In fact, it has been shown (using oil analysis) that MORE wear particals occour during the 1st 3,000 miles or so after an oilchange. After 3,000 miles, the oil tends to "clean up" by showing a sharp drop in wear particals.

    There is no need to deviate from the owners-manual when it comes to OCI.
  • winston6winston6 Member Posts: 5
    I have a '99 VW jetta-not the TDI-just the basic one. The car looses power & quits while I am driving-about every 30 miles. My trusted
    independent mechanic and he says he can't figure out the problem & doesn't want to just guess and charge me lots of $. If it sits for 5-10 minutes, it will start right up & go another 25 miles. I put in premium gas, had the engine sensopr replaced. HELP!
  • svargassvargas Member Posts: 5
    I have yet another question about my fabulous headache of a jetta (2001 1.8T)... When i start the car for the first time everyday, it sounds like it has a deisel engine. It's extremely loud for about a minute or two then it quiets down. The RPM's are slightly higher during this period also. Is this normal? My mom has a Beetle and her car doesn't do this. Also, if I do not wait until the noise goes away and drive off immediately the brakes barely stop the car and the RPM's surge up and down causing the car to inch forward. Any ideas?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That diesel-sound you hear is most likely the hydrolic lifters. They can be quite noisy until they receive oil-pressure to pump them up. This is also borne-out from the brakes being weak. (the valve-timings are not accurate while the lifters are not pumped up... this can cause loss of engine-vacuum which is the "power-source" for the power brakes.)

    Lack of oil-changes or using incorrect oil is most often the cause of cruddy lifters. Under "normal" conditions, the lifters will retain their charge of oil and will "pump up" quickly after a cold start.

    ...but the big question is what can you DO about this...

    I would bet money that you are NOT using the recommended SYNTHETIC oil in your 1.8T engine. Although the 2001 owners-manual does not specify SYNTHETIC , there has been an across-the-board update on ALL VW turbocharged engines to use SYNTHETIC oil. Synthetic oil is virtually immune to leaving gunk in the engine.
    (Synthetic oil even acts like a detergent to clean a dirty engine)

    However, it is a crap-shoot to say weather you can "fix" the problem using just oil or additives. If you are lucky, you might be able to clean the gunk out of the lifters by using some type of oil-additive such as "STP Oil Treatment". After about 1000 miles after treatment, you may notice the problem is gone.

    The idea is to use somthing that will disolve the gunk from the lifters...then change the oil to remove the gunk from the engine.

    Using a slightly more viscous oil might also improve the cold-start noise. ("STP Oil Treatment" is also a viscosity improver - Makes the oil thicker)

    I can tell you that my daughters 1st VW used to make this sound when she first bought it. The STP Oil Treatment made an obvious improvment... (but did not totally eliminate the noise)

    On the other hand... your oilpump may be getting weak and is having troubles building up pressure. Any mechanic can put a pressure-guage on your engine to ascertain the status of your oilpump.
  • cmmc33cmmc33 Member Posts: 2
    How strange, my 99 Jetta is doing the same thing! It is at the shop now getting looked at and they can not find the source. Mine has stalled twice - once at a stop light and the other while I was turning into my driveway. The car starts right up again.
  • winston6winston6 Member Posts: 5
    please let me know if yur mechanic can solve this. thanks you so much.
  • winston6winston6 Member Posts: 5
    hi whitney, did you ever get your car fixed? I have the same problem & can't find anyone to fiogure it out. good luck, winston
  • cmmc33cmmc33 Member Posts: 2
    My mechanic just called. He can not replicate the problem and right now can not make a diagnosis. He says intermittent stalling is a difficult condition to solve. The only thing he recommended was a throttle body service for $59.95. He said it helps in high-mileage cars like mine (118,000 miles). I don't know what to do. I'm going to worry ever time I drive the car now. Luckily I have AAA but certainly don't want to be calling them on a regular basis!
  • winston6winston6 Member Posts: 5
    thanks so much for getting back to me. I decided to drive today & the problem has become suddenly worse. It died 3 times and I had to leave it on the side of the road. I am so scared to drive it. Putting money into something that MIGHT work is hard to do. I already let my mechanic guess on the engine sensor and that didn't work. Keep me posted. Unfortunately, I thinkthat it will probably happen again for you, too. Thanks, Winston
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Does your Jetta have the 2.0 liter engine by chance? If it does, I would check the ignition coil pack for cracks... To find the coil, simply follow the sparkplug wires...
  • winston6winston6 Member Posts: 5
    yes it is. and I will check as you suggested. A few other things....when it stops on my, there is no check engine light, there are no codes given out to provide clues. The car lurches if it is in motion OR if it happens while stopped, it seems to slowly loose power. Thank SOOOO much for trying to help me. Winston
  • luvhatemyjettaluvhatemyjetta Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 jetta wolfsburg 5sp 2.0. I had a simple radiator hose break the other day and
    replaced it. Naturally, I added coolant and now it overheats. I started guessing that maybe my thermostat was bad but I may be over analyzing. There was absolutly nothing wrong
    in terms of temperature until this hose broke. Any suggestions on what it may or may not be?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    First of all, I hope you used ONLY the VW-approved G12 antifreeze... anything else mixed in with it can "Gell" and plug up the entire cooling system. If you mixed in anything else besides the VW-approved stuff, consider flushing the entire cooling system and refill with the right stuff mixed with DISTILLED water.

    The problem you describe sounds like you did not "burp" the cooling system. An air-pocket in the system is not able to be pumped by the waterpump.

    One way to verify that the waterpump is pumping is to observe the flow of antifreeze into the overflow tank via the small hose that attaches to its side. That hose should be "pissing" antifreeze at all times the engine is running. If not, then there is no flow thru the engine.
  • troll73troll73 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1998 Jetta GT with the 2.0 engine. Curious if anyone knows the best octane of fuel to use to reduce or avoid potential premature detonation.
  • jetta7jetta7 Member Posts: 17
    Have you tried changing the fuel filter and air filter? These are the life blood of the engine.
  • desjardodesjardo Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys I have a 97 2.0l jetta. It just started leaking oil from the filetr housing - Very badly. It looks like an easy fix - probably a gasket. Does anyone know what this gasket is called or what the heck the part is called that the filer is screwed in to? I have had no luck finding this part....
  • kilogarzakilogarza Member Posts: 1
    I need a new engine, i was wondering, how do i know if an engine is compatible to my 99 jetta. i was told that the GTI, Jetta and golg 2.0's are all the same, is this true? I really need help. thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    All VW engines have a designation of 3 letters (AZG, AEG... etc)

    Although there may be several mix-n-match pairnings of engine-transmission... it would be wise to keep the same 3-letter engine-code which you currently have. Otherwiese, you would also have to consider engine-computer and perhaps even sensor differences.
  • gitgogitgo Member Posts: 2
    Need some help - any comebacks appreciated. Have a 4cyl, Gasoline 2.0. with problems. Hit a raccoon on the right front side and the check engine light came on afterwards. (raccoon cited for DUI and has since disapppeared). Insurance not covering this and it is getting very expensive. Trying to tie the problem with the accident - hard to prove it was accident related. Car ran perfectly prior to the accident.

    Engine starts ok, however, it will not pull itself. Engine will not rev up at all - when I step on the accel. the engine cuts out. Runs rough until the engine warms up - some smoke until it gets hot. Even then, little or no power, and the engine sputters upon putting into gear. It will only get up to around 40mph. Have had two separate diagnostics on it, one indicated the engine was misfiring. Changed the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter. Had the second diagnostic performed by a VW dealer and it indicated the ignition coil was the problem. Have changed this out and the problem remains. I run premium fuel, maintainence is regular - any thoughts on the cat. converter? Other possible problems? Solutions? Many thanks to anyone who responds.
  • crycry Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to find the location of the oil filter on my 2007 jetta. Also where can you buy the 502.00 Oil? Thank you Cry
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    From a document that used to be on VW website (c. 2005), the following met their 502.00 spec at that time:

    Volkswagen Part No. ZVW 352 540S 5W-40
    Castrol Syntec 5W-40
    Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40
    Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
    Kendall GT-1 Full synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
    Mobil 1 0W-40
    Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40
    Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
    Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
    Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
    Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
    76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
    Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40
    Total Quartz 9000 5W-40
    Valvoline Synpower 5W-30
    Valvoline Synpower 5W-40
  • kolie03kolie03 Member Posts: 1
    HELP!! Engine Surging at 50 MPH, 500 RPMS fast & MIL light. This has been a thorn in my side for over 2 months. Recently my 02 VW Jetta, 95000 miles, needed the transmission rebuilt because the reverse went out. It is no longer under warrenty and was cheaper to have it rebuilt then a new factory transmission put in (mistake #1). Ever since I got it back the engine surges on the highway causing the MIL light to come on, about 50MPH and runs about 500RPMs faster from what I can tell. The MIL light states "Torque converter circuit malfunction." Also, it may seem to be starting roughly. Here is a list of items that were replaced: solenoids, valve body, wiring harness, torque converter (twice). I am being told it is only an occassional problem (I notice it everytime I get past 50), nothing can be done about it and it may be my computer. I LOVE my Jetta, but am sick of dealing with this latest round of problems.
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