Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions



  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    The Dealership is definitely taking you for a ride. The cost of a new alternator is between $250 and $300, and the labor shouldn't take any more than 1 hour. I would order the alternator and have a private mechanic install it.

    Here's a link for your alternator from (which I have purchased my parts from for years):

    To search for private VW mechanics in your area, I would google on the following:

    private VW mechanics (enter your city, state here)

    Hope this helps...
  • asifgrkhanasifgrkhan Member Posts: 13
    Thank you 600kgolfgt for the detailed reply. I wil contact Tai VW & Audi for the timing belt replacement.

    Couple of quick questions:
    1. My research showed that for early Golf/Jetta 4 models, the timing belt interval was put at 40k which was enhanced to 120k from 2002 onwards (as far as I rememeber). I am still assuming that the previous owner made the first replacement since this is a critical part.

    2. I did call up VolxGerman, which is a big shop in Honolulu and got a quote of $890 for timing belt + water pump. Is this figure in the ballpark? What should the approximate cost for the labor component in your opinion at an independant mechanic like Tai?

    3. Does the abnormally low mileage/gal show something wrong with the engine or will a tune up take care of it.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    1) Since the timing belt is one of the most expensive services to be performed on an automobile, at 40,000 miles, most owners will avoid the timing belt change and leave that for the next owner (unfortunately). If it were my car, and there are no records that (definitively) state that the timing belt was changed, I would have the timing belt service done - especially if the car now has over 70,000 miles on it - because now you are entering the mileage range where the majority of (plastic) water pump failures occur. And a $5,000 engine replacement is an expensive gamble if you've guessed wrong.

    2) If the $890 includes parts and labor, that's a good price - well below what the dealer would charge (if performed by the dealer, you are probably looking at $1100-$1200 easily).

    3) If you purchased the parts yourself and had the mechanic perform the installation you are probably in the same $890 ballpark. The majority of the cost for the timing belt service is labor (anywhere between 4-6 hours).

    Since you already have one quote of $890, I would get another quote from Tai VW and Audi, and go with the best quote. One thing I would ask (very important) is if the water pump is the OEM plastic one or the metal one (INSIST on the metal one - which should extend your timing belt change interval towards the 100,000 mile mark).

    Good luck and let us know how you made out.

  • asifgrkhanasifgrkhan Member Posts: 13
    Hey 600kgolfgt,

    Thanks for the advice. I havent seen any Timing belt service records for the car so am assuming that nothing was done at the 40,000 mile mark.

    Talked to Thomas at TAI VW and got a quote of $495 for parts and labor combined for changing the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and coolant. This looks like a very competitive price so I guess I will make the 35 mile trek later in the week to get the service done by him.

    I will let the forum know how TAI VW worked out once I have had the service done.

  • seatguyseatguy Member Posts: 1
    1998 Jetta 2.0L, 169k miles. The problem is inconsistent and typically occurs after a long (30minutes minimum) freeway drive when stopping at an exit light. At about 5-10mph, the engine stalls very smoothly (no gurgling or vibration). It will start again right away. Related clue: I remember a click that USED TO occur during this same type of condition when it didn't stall. I checked the EVAP regulator valve and does click with 12V applied. I've been monitoring the voltage applied during driving and varies between 7.9V and 8.2V and noticed -5V during an incident (I think, it was very quick). Would a faulty signal to a working EVAP valve cause the above issue? Any guidance?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I do not beleive that the evap system would cause stalling (unless it pulls a HUGE vacuum in the fueltank... VERY unlikey that the fuelpump would be "out-sucked")

    Do not forget that the evap system may click when it is performing one of the built-in diagnostics for OBDII. A slight vacuum is created in the airspace above the fuel and then sealed off.... a timer is then kicked off to make certain that the vacuum "holds". This test is mainly to detect a loose gascap or split hoses.

    You may consider using a VAGCOM to monitor some key inputs as you are driving. I would expect that the graph would clearly show the conditions which are causing the stalling.
  • bharobharo Member Posts: 1
    Where do you find out about federal emmississons warantee? My husband just replaced some type of cooling sensor because it was pretty much spilling coolant every chance it got.2000
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Did you look in the glovebox for the Warantee information? The law states that you must get a copy of the "federal emissions warranty" when you purchase the vehicle.

    Did you try typing googling "federal emissions warranty"? I get 208,000 hits on that one. You should be able to get all the details you need.

    DONT FORGET... Your "federal emissions warranty" may be different depending on the year of your vehicle. (3year/50Kmile, 8/80 , 10/100...etc)

    I beleive your 2000 MY has the 10year/100,000 mile "federal emissions warranty"
  • pengwinpengwin Member Posts: 74
    i was on vw's website and i noticed that the new jetta SEL has a different compression ratio than the SE or S? why?
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    The SEL employs the 2.0L Turbo, while the S and SE trims use the 2.5L (normally-aspirated) engine.
  • pengwinpengwin Member Posts: 74
    no, the 2 liter turbo was removed after my2007
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    Ooops, you're right. Jetta SportWagen has a 2.0L Turbo (just confirmed that on the U.S. VW website) with 10.3:1 compression, but there's no turbo in the Sedan. :blush:
  • pengwinpengwin Member Posts: 74
    right which is why i was wondering about the different compression ratio's
  • chellevwchellevw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Jetta, 2.0 ltr engine and last week it wouldn't start. This has never happened before. It was suggested to me that the fuel pump may have gone bad, so I bought a new one and it turns out that wasn't the problem. Now it's being suggested that it may be the fuel pump just won't start, it seem as if no fuel is getting to the engine and I have a half a tank of gas in there. Any suggestions? where is the fuel pump relay located???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You need to stop throwing parts at the car and back up, take a breath, and try some basic diagnostics or have someone do them for you.

    One simple test might be to spray some starter fluid in the air intake. If the car roars to life for a few seconds, then yep you have a fuel problem. If it won't start even with starter fluid, you probably have an ignition issue, such as bad coil, etc.

    If you'd rather take it to a shop, they can install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and test for fuel pressure, and can test the injectors for a pulse with a NOID light and make a simple test for spark.

    Sudden fuel pump failures are rather rare actually. They usually wheeze themselves to death. You should be able to hear the FP relay click when you turn the key to ON.

    Relay location on the thirteen position auxiliary relay panel, above relay panel:
    1 - Auxiliary Emergency Flasher Relay (404)
    2 - Relay for Motor Remote Unlock Rear Lid (79)
    3 - Starting Interlock Relay (53) (185) (465)
    4 - Fog Light Relay (53)
    5 - Control Module for Multi-function Steering Wheel (450)
    6 - Control Module for Multi-function Steering Wheel (450)
    7 - Daytime Running Lights Change-over Relay (173), from April 1999
    8 - Daytime Running Lights Change-over Relay (173), through March 1999
    9 - Dual Horn Auxiliary Relay (53)
    10 - Glow Plug Relay (180)
    10 - Warning Lamp Auxiliary Relay (200)
    11 - Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Relay (175)
    12 - Power Supply (Terminal 30, B+) Relay (109)

    Relay Panel:
    1 - Dual Horn Relay (53)
    2 - Load Reduction Relay (18) (100)
    4 - Fuel Pump (FP) Relay (409)
    V - Wiper/Washer Intermittent Relay (192) (377) (389)
    VI - Wiper/Washer Intermittent Relay (192) (377) (389)
    NOTE Number in parentheses ( ) indicates production control number stamped on relay housing.
  • swade1swade1 Member Posts: 1
    Check engine light started flashing, code stated cylinder 1 running too rich, replaced all 4 coils. Code went away, now enginge is ticking. Sounds like coming from the head but not sure. Any suggestions to what next?

    Also, taken to mechanic and told 20W-50 synthetic should make ticking go away. After 4 days it is louder. It is in the freezing temps here. Should I really be running this weight on this engine?
  • joker55joker55 Member Posts: 49
    Hey guys

    wondering if you can help me out, ill try to make this as short as possible

    I've got a 1999.5 Jetta, Auto, with 199,xxx km on it, a few months ago i noticed a "screeching/rattle" noise coming from underneath the car, it is noticeable after the car has been running for more then a few minutes or has had a good run on the highway

    it does it when i have the car in Drive, and foot on the brake, i can hear this noise coming from underneath the car, closest to the front, i'd say it was coming from where the downpipe/cat is, also, ive put the Ebrake on with wheels chocked and got down beside it and can hear the noise, it goes away slightly when i put it in park/neutral, i pop the hood but dont hear anything in the engine bay

    anyways, i went to the mechanic and asked if it was the Cat (i had a similar noise about a year ago and had VW replace it under the warranty and didnt really notice it anymore, probley cause it was winter time i.e windows up all the time) he told me that he suspected that it was the heat shield on the i cut it off (my warranty was up anyways)

    noise was still there

    i go to a muffler shop and they said that it was the bracket where the resonator is, the exhaust was vibrating and going to the front of the car where the flex pipe is hence it sounds like had that replaced

    noise is still there

    this noise is driving me nuts, simply because i cant figure it out, i know its not my serpentine belt or my tensioner, i had my timing belt and water pump done not too long ago because of another noise, so i dont think its that

    has anyone had this problem or now what this problem is? i dont want to just start throwing money at in hopes it will stop, i'm just concerned its going to become something worse....

    any ideas?

    thanks in advance
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You'll need someone under there with a mechanic's stethoscope. Sounds like it's vibration-oriented, not a belt noise.
  • vadivadi Member Posts: 1
    How to do the throttle adaptation because the engine is looping up and down and have code P1545?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well you'll need a VAG scanning tool to find out what's going wrong with the Throttle Position Control---there are various components and possibilities here.
  • schulz476schulz476 Member Posts: 2
    we keep getting a trouble code that reads: manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering, anyone know what this is? and how to fix
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Got a # for that code?
  • schulz476schulz476 Member Posts: 2
    unfortunately no, i deleted it. but it will come back. we think it might be p1128 but not 100% on that till they come back with the car
  • armedriosarmedrios Member Posts: 1
    Hello, ihave been trying to fix a problem with my 2000 jetta vr6 for some time now, I am down to 3 codes but i need them translated to actual parts that are associated with the codes 17953-throttle actuation malf. 17550-load registration limit exceeded p1142 intermittent intake air temp. sensor-642-signal too high-p0113 intermittent think anyone can help me out, thanks, Mike
  • gophergirlgophergirl Member Posts: 4
    All of a sudden; since my 15K check my jetta will lurch as I take my foot off the brake. Happens both while backing up and also going forward. Only happens after engine is warm. I can not seem to get a smooth 'off the line' start.

    Any ideas? Help this is driving me crazy. I know it isn't me or my driving habits as it only happens when engine is warm. Never when it is cold.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The only thing all of those codes have in common is a ground connection. I would try cleaning all grounds you can find.... pay close attention to the grounds for the engine-computer
  • paulojetta2002paulojetta2002 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8L turbo, when I press on the gas my car revs high stumbles and surges. I did a tune up but same problem, could it be a air intake problem
    also my engine light has been on for a year, dealer has a code for coolent problem
    but can't fix?

    Thank you
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your VW dealer cant fix a problem with a VW.... are you serious??? I bet I can guess why your CEL (CheckEngineLamp) is on from here! (sounds like you need to find a more competent dealership)

    You need to get the CEL fixed... then, if problems still exist, move forward from there.

    BTW: You say you "did a tuneup"... I am curious... just exactly what did you do? (There has not been any such thing as a "tuneup" since electronic-ignition was invented.)
  • gophergirlgophergirl Member Posts: 4
    Still looking for help in figuring out why my '08 2.0T jetta is lurching forward with a stutter when I take my foot off the brake and before I start to accerate. Anyone out there help me?

    Only happens when engine is warm - cold starts the 'off the line' are smooth and with out any lurches (my definition is like a manual transmission with a new driver)-
    but as soon as the engine does engage it is smooth from there on up to speed.

    Only started to happen after my 15K check/oil change - please help! thx
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    I 'm guessing you have the 2.0T and DSG? Dont have an answer for ya, wish I did, mine acts funny sometimes also.

    GLI or Wolfsburg?
  • ryederryeder Member Posts: 2
    Wolfsburg. I changed out the MAS and it eliminated the problem. In fact, it ran so well I almost received a speeding ticket. Sold the vehicle last fall but due to the high cost of parts, I will not be buying another one.
  • gophergirlgophergirl Member Posts: 4
    yes it is a wolfsburg - good to hear I am not alone, still so strange to have this happen - not sure what DSG is.... thanks for responding.
  • gator98gator98 Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced distributor, coil, computer, crankshaft sensor. I have fuel but no spark. When I jumper out the tach wire with the trigger wire for the coil it starts fine but the fuel will not increase. It just would not start one day and I need help finding out what.
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    Wolf also. AFAIK its a manual trans, but yes, with computer technology it drives like an automatic.

    Direct Shift Gearbox I think is what DSG means. They brag that its the fastest shifting trans.

    I noticed it acting wierd since I started taking the back road home, not all the time, but sometimes it does.

    Think its used to me driving on the highway with the cruise set. Maybe it will get better the more it gets used to the back road.

    I want nothing to do with the road construction on the highway coming home.......the usual morons and semis forced into one lane..........I know that isnt a pretty sight!!

    Have you tried sport mode and launch control?
  • gophergirlgophergirl Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info - I was so frustrated, I emailed my dealer - who immediately replied with a couple of questions and then had me stop by without an appointment - and pulled the service manager out to go for a ride with me....I was apprehensive at first, but knew there was something funky with this car. Sure enough the problem presented itself immediately and the guy seemed to know exactly what was going on. I am scheduled in for a couple of days and seems like he did say something about DSG - but heard something about paddles....

    All props to Burnsville Volkswagon in Burnsville MN. The counter staff, the service staff were exceptional - Hope this will rectify the problem once and for all.

    Thanks to cyperland for the support! Will keep you all posted
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    folks, i have a 2001 jetta and the engine light is on!!

    Checked and was told 5th cylinder is mis-fired. meaning normal cylinders should have 190lbs pressure, but mine 5th only has 70 lbs pressure. was told as a huge problem and it will cost a lot to fix it!!

    what should i do then?! the light was on actually one month a ago and it can drive Ok even long travel~~~

    Anyone has any idea?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am assuming you have the VR6 engine (The only 2001 engine with a cylinder #5) I also assume you are saying that a "compression test" was done and cylinder #5 measured lower than the other cylinders. It is also correct that this usually means you have SERIOUS engine damage.

    My suggestion is that you get a "second opionion". Ask somone else to perform both a "compression test" and a "leakdown test".

    If the same results come back... I would personally consider NOT fixing the engine.... continue to change the oil and drive it.

    BTW: I am not convinced that low compression in one cylinder would make the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on. That may be another issue altogether.
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    bpeebles, thanks for the reply! our jetta is VR6, you are right!

    the check result is : cylinder #5 has only 90 lbs. but the normal cylinders have 170 lbs. I think there is a big difference! So you think if I go to another shop and have the engine checked and get the same test results, we can still drive this car for a while? meaning the car is still drivable?will not damage the whole engine eventually?

    what kind of results that might be got from a leak down test?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A good engine mechanic should be able to "read" the results of a "compression test" and "leakdown test" to determine what has failed in your engine. There may be other tests they can do to help isolate the failure.

    Based on that diagnosis, continued driving may, or may not cause further damage.

    Low compression could be caused by several factors including
    *) blown head gasket
    *) carbon deposits built up on valves
    *) Broken valves
    *) broken piston ring
    *) heavilly scored cylinder wall

    Virtually all of the "fixes" for these things requires tearing engine apart which is labor-intensive and often costly.

    To answer your question about a "leakdown test". A "leakdown test" is essentually using a hand-pump to pressureize the cooling-system to normal operating pressure (using a pressure-meter)... then time how long the pressure bleeds off by itself. If the pressure bleeds off too quickly, this often means that the head-gasket is leaking coolant INTERNALLY into one or more of the cylinders. This is somtimes caused by a warped head.

    If head gasket is internally leaking coolant extensivly.... engine may be difficult to start when cold and blow steam out exhaust when 1st started.

    BTW: A warped head is often the result of OVERHEATING the engine at some point.... but there are other reasons this may happen too.
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    one weird thing!!!! I did not do anything on my engine yet!!! Guess what, yesterday, the engine light is off.... (not reset by myself)

    the only thing i did is before i drop my car to the shop and have it checked, i changed all the spark plug and add fuel injector cleaner. but the light was still on. so i went to check and was told that one of the cylinder the pressure is only 70lbs but should be 190 lbs. I was planning to have the car check again so i still drive it to work and yesterday the engine light is off.. I have no idea what happened.

    is it sth good? or very weird?

    thanks guys!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That is not "weird" at all... I told you several appends ago that I doubt that "low compression" by itself would cause a CEL (Check Engine Light)

    The new sparkplugs and injector-cleaner may likely have have resolved the problem. (or made it go away for awhile)

    A CEL will go out by itself if the detected fault is not sensed within 'x' number of "trips"

    "x" is oftnen defined as "50"... but may vary based on the type of failure detected.

    A "trip" is defined as starting engine cold and driving until it has warmed up.

    Perhaps you hit the magic "50 trips" and the CEL went out.

    (Official documentation for all of this is available if you want details)
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    I have been totally driven crazy by this 01 Jetta. Today the engine light is on again. but the car run smooth~~~ I have no idea what is going on with this car!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Read the codes.

    Many autoparts stores (Autozone...etc) will "read the codes" for free.

    Once you know wich "code" threw the CEL.... let us know what it is.
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    the light was off yesterday and remains off today. Well, i am speechless now.. want to get rid of it so badly!
  • stemsstems Member Posts: 1
    well i just recently bought this jetta from this dealership. within 2 days of getting the car the check engine lite came on and the car started throwing white smoke out of the exhuast. any ideas what it might be i took it to the dealer and they told me it was a sensor gone bad and for the smoke that started happening after they changed out the water pump.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    So is the white smoke gone or not?
  • suttons5suttons5 Member Posts: 5
    The code reading is: P0011 Intake camshaft Position Timing Overadvanced (Bank 1). Any ideas of what is wrong?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    just a wild guess.... the camshaft-position-sensor is misbehaving?

    BTW: An inline 4-cylinder engine has only 1 "bank" of cylinders. A "V" engine would have 2 'banks" of cylinders. The Volkswagen W8 engine has 4 "banks" of cylinders.
  • aramraramr Member Posts: 1
    my jetta is having the same issues almost seems like you posted the same exact thing i was going to say. the semi steep hill and everything, just wondering if you were able to resolve the issue.....someone please help.
  • tcjettatcjetta Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2003 Jetta with an automatic transmission. When I first start it in the morning and come to my first stop sign, the car jerks/chugs throught the intersection. It only does it when the engine is cold. I also notice some shuttering when I am sitting at an intersection, but only on occassion. I took it to the dealer and they didn't know what it was. It doesn't give a code and the check engine light isn't on at this point. Any ideas what the problem could be? I want to get it taken care of before the problem gets worse. Thanks!
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