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Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Problems



  • matrix2matrix2 Posts: 3
    i have a 2002 jeep liberty. i just replaced my battery yet is still stalls and shuts off on my while driving, also the obd light has come on again. and now my locks will not lock when i drive off like they are supposed to. any ideas.
  • francesmfrancesm Posts: 3
    My 2004 Jeep Liberty with only 10,000 miles just suddenly refused to start after being fine a few minutes
    before. I had it towed to the dealer and after three weeks of what I think was trial and error I finally have it back and it seems to be fine. They replaced the fuel pump, computer, fuel injector and then a second fuel pump saying the first one was defective. I had puchased
    the extended warranty when I bought the car so I incurred no expense except the $100 deductible. My advice would be to anyone purchasing a car these days is to bite the bullet and buy the extended warranty. Mine included rental for five days and the dealer paid for the remainder time. I shutter to think what this three week repair job would have cost me. By the way, this is the first problem I have had with the Liberty and I really do enjoy driving it.
  • My son, our neighbor [who was the chief or head machanic for a John Deer dealer] and I have been working with biodeasel and use motor oil for over a year and a half having much success in saving on fuel expenses. I bought a Jeep Liberty Limited 2005 model with CRD last September and have used our processed oil [cleansed with a center fuse] with limited sucess in the Jeep diesel. When the fuel water filter gets 5,000 miles it must be changede or the diesel stalls and will not start. Now after sucessfuly running 10 galons of our cleaned oil on the next 10 gallions the moter is stalling. To start the diesel you must turn the switch off then back on and the motor will start. This means you can see the RPM drop on stalling ,<img src="move the transmission to Neutral, switch ignetion switch off, then on, and start the engine switch transmission to drive and excelerat slowly and keep th Jeep running or/and moving.
    We experenced similar condition with a Ford250 pick up we own and found the cam locating sensor needed replacing.
    To my Knowledge the CRD has no such sensor. The CRD acts as if it is not getting fuel. Could the Comon rail not be pulling or have enough suction to move fuel through the fuel filter? Could a small fuel pump help?
    Has aneyone had this problem? Jon D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    One obvious diagnostic would be to run straight diesel fuel in the truck and see how it behaves, or perhaps pump biodiesel might be another good experiment.
  • Yes! the jeep Liberty '05 runs very well on store bought diesel fuel. This must be because it was designed to do so. The problem is that it stalls on centefuse cleaned oil that it and other diesels are running on. Could the common rail not create enough suction to pull fuel through the fuel filter? Could installing an auxellery fuel pump solve this problem? Is there a fuel filter that would let more fuel get to the motor? I am open to any suggestion. Yes another expert said I could trade to get another diesel.
  • I've been reading about the problems others are having with their liberties. With mine the same problem happens. We just went on vacation and the jeep sat for 6 days. When we came back and tried to go shopping as soon as the jeep reached operating temp, it bogged out and the RPM's won't go over 2000 without the jeep chugging and can't travel over 30mph. My husband has used carb cleaner which was a temporary quick fix. He has replaced one of the oxygen sensors and just today replaced the throttle control sensor. No dice. still the problem remains. Anyone know why this is happening when the vehicle sits too long or is that just coinsidence. This is very frustrating.
  • First: Has your fuel filter been changed recently? If not DO SO!
    Blwing the nose of the CRD.
    Take your Jeep out on the High WAy where you can go fast. From a slow speed excellerat as quickly as possible . You should see a clowd of black exoust. Afetr several axcellerations the black shouldc go away or turn white. This is a fix.
    Get some biodiesel it will help. This works fore me. Pardon the sloppy message as I must hurry to work.jdh;-) :)
  • i'm having that sam problem where after around 20 minutes of driving it wont drive anymore when you press the gas it just wont go!, the power stays on it jerks then shuts down.. when you watch the RPM the do a dance back and fourth.. I can restart it only one time : buy raving the gas then it will only go about another 2 minutes before it wont even click to start.. i know its not the crank sensor because it has been replaced, the battery has been replaced also, injectors have been cleaned, carberator flushed i'm still at a loss. PLEASE HELP!!!
  • We owned a 2005 Jeep Liberty for about 3 months before getting so frustrated we traded it in. There was ~50K miles on it, same problem. On a 2-3 mile trip the Jeep would stall out. Would have to restart it, would sputter, sluggish acceleration, stall. The dealer we bought it from was a crook, so we took it to the school's auto shop that my wife was teaching at. Instead of replacing cam/crank sensors, which is what the error codes stated had faulted the engine, the master tech @ the school suggested cleaning out the throttle body first. For a $7 can of throttle body cleaner, the problem was solved. Obviously labor was not included as this was a school run program, but this seemed to fix the problem. If you read up on this, it should be something you can do on your own. For the next couple of weeks we had the Jeep, it no longer stalled, which was previously a daily/multiple times per day phenomenon. Ultimately we sold the Jeep (have never been happier with our new Explorer). The way the mechanic explained it to us, because of new emission standards, some of the exhaust is brought back through the intake/throttle body apparatus leading to heavy carbon deposition (our throttle body was heavily carbonized), which leads to decreased air/gas delivery to the engine causing it to stall out. This should not happen @ highway speeds because of the higher RPM's and inertia of the engine and relatively lower gas/oxygen demands. If you think about it, engines require more fuel/oxygen during high demand..i.e acceleration. Your engine is not going over 2000 RPM because there is not enough fuel/oxygen getting delivered to the cylinders for adequate combustion. The symptoms are worse when the engine heats up because as the air gets hotter it is less dense meaning there is less oxygen to help burn the fuel again causing stalling/sputtering/sluggishness. I would do one of two things:

    1. Clean the throttle body or better yet -
    2. Sell the Jeep
  • Thanks for your input on the Jeep stalling problem. My husband and I viewed the many suggestions people sent in. 2 years ago he tried spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body intake. it was a quick fix but short lived. As soon as we went on vacation last year and the Jeep sat idle for a week we had the same problem. So he went with the quick fix again. It ran great. This year after vacation; same problem, only this time there was no fixing it, so this time he thought it might be the throttle position sensor because our other Jeep had that problem. Unfortunately it didn't help, so I found this forum and showed him some of the entries. After reading yours he took the Jeep to our mechanic and he hooked up his hand held computer and it displayed the message crank shaft speed sensor. We ordered the part and had him install it. That was about 2 weeks ago and so far not a problem. It's running great. So if anyone out there is having these problems with their Liberty stalling it may be that sensor.
  • The error code that probably displayed was P0320 (you can call your mechanic and see if he remembers). It is a completely generic code and all that means is that when the cam or crank (for the valves/pistons in the engine repectively) stop in an untimely fashion (i.e from stalling) and not from turning off the key (like it is supposed to work), then those sensors will send an error message to the computer stating that those sensors "faulted". To replace a $100 part because of a "faulty sensor" should, in my opinion, be a major recall by Jeep since you, me and thousands of other people have had this problem. But perhaps you're right and the sensor failed and I got lucky with just cleaning out the throttle body. Since this has been such a big problem for so many people, it is my opinion that Jeep should be held responsible for all of the repairs, whether in the end they were needed or not (i.e. recall).
  • I agree. I am still amazed at the numbers of us who endured. And you are right about the generic code. The first time this happened I took it to the dealer and after paying $80 to connect to the computer a "P" code came up. Can't remember the #s. This time with the hand held it actually said crank sensor on the screen. I think we should complain to Jeep about this because our Jeep only had about 30000 miles on it when we first had the problem.
  • I have the same problems as everyone else but i have just the one code p0340 and my oil light comes on as well. does anyone elses oil light come on?
  • Can someone please tell me HOW TO clean the throttle body. I am a beginner and have no idea where anything is. Thanks in advance!
  • jeep liberty 2002 limited
    Usually starts fine when left sitting for a while. If restarted after a short trip, it is more difficult to start. More short trips lead to more difficultly starting. Eventually I start it with the gas petal down and white smoke out the exaust. Last night it didn't start then 30 min later started with no problem. Just did an oil change. Didn't replace fuel filter. Haven't checked battery. Any ideas?
  • eammeamm Posts: 3
    I've had the same sort of problem. Every once in a while , regardless if driven everyday or periodically, my Liberty CRD goes into "limp mode". Sometime the engine will just die. The only error code is P0093, which is a "major fuel leak". The thing is, I see no leaks anywhere. My suspicion is that the fuel filter is clogged, but wanted to first see if anyone else had this issue. I have had the fuel line apart, but have always purged the air out very well. Further, I have never had a problem starting or running the car immediately after having the fuel line apart.

    Interestingly, if the problem occurs, I can resolve by turning off the engine and restarting. I have tried primimg the pump on the filter housing with engine running when the problem occurrs, but it does not resolve the issue.
  • Finally my husband fixed the problem. We got some info from a member of this forum. He replaced the speed control sensor which he said screws into the passenger side of the engine block. It senses the speed of the engine from a small magnet imbedded in a fly wheel gear. The part was ordered by our mechanic from NAPA auto parts and cost about $25. Have not had a problem since he replaced that part last sept. or oct. Good Luck. Hope this helps anyone else having the same problem.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Thanks for the update - good to hear that it's cured your problem.
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    My 2003 Jeep stalled out several times at stop signs and slow speeds. I replaced a sensor and it worked fine for about a year when it shut off again this time on the HIGHWAY. The RPM dial goes crazy, the steering wheel locks, and it totally dies. Of course, this is a HUGE safety issue. I had the crank sensor replaced after this episode and it worked fine for only 2 weeks, when it again stalled (at about 40 MPH on a city road) and had tons of smoke coming from the exhaust. How is this not a recall? Any suggestions on how to fix it? At this point I would love to sell it and get a different car....none of this was under warranty either.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    How is this not a recall?

    It would be a recall only if there were some real defect. Parts wear out, vehicles need maintenance and some mechanics misdiagnose problems but those are hardly reasons for a recall. I think it's best to find out exactly what the problem is before making an indictment.

    Perhaps some of the experts would jump in and offer some guidance. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    from the NHTSA website:

    NHTSA is authorized to order manufacturers to recall and repair vehicles or items of motor vehicle equipment when ODI investigations indicate that they contain serious safety defects in their design, construction, or performance. ODI also monitors the adequacy of manufacturers' recall campaigns. Before initiating an investigation, ODI carefully reviews the body of consumer complaints and other available data to determine whether a defect trend may exist.

    so in other words, a breakdown of one car one time, or even one car multiple times, doesn't mean that all or most of that make model have a provable design defect.

    BTW, the automaker may also voluntarily issue a recall.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Thanks, Shifty! That's helpful.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    The issue is not if it should be a recall or not, regardless it is a huge safety issue. Its now been in the shop 3 days and they cannot figure out what caused this problem. They investigated all the codes and reset them and drove the car to see if it will stall and it runs fine now. I just have to drive it until it stalls again...hopefully not on the highway again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Intermittent problems are the devil, because you often can't fix it until it happens, but when it happens there's no one around to fix it.

    it could also be that their scanning equipment isn't sophisticated enough---not all are created equal. Or it could be a computer glitch, which is a real pain to track down.

    No easy answers with an intermittent problem, sometimes you just have to take your best guess or find someone with the patience of a saint and the genius of Sherlock Holmes to track it down inch by inch, component by component, testing each one for proper values---which isn't cheap.

    I spent 6 months off and on on a Jeep once before I found the problem.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    If you make a proper check list in agreement with a technical expert and each time a problem occurs you write down all conditions you observed, then you can pretend to become Dr Watson's assistant. The cause of the symptom may not be on your list, but the human brain has hidden resources :shades:
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the input, I really do appreciate it! I am at the point where its time to decide whether to cut my losses or keep pursuing the truth of the problem with the car. I bought it used less than 2 years ago and with no warranty so there was the first clue that my brain was lacking. I am sure people run into similar issues with other types of cars but found it odd when my current mechanic said he has a Jeep Cherokee in the shop with the same exact problem and codes. I guess they found the source of that cars problem but it isn't something that needs to be fixed on my car. Anyway, if I ever find out what the final solution is I will post it.
  • eammeamm Posts: 3
    It turns out my problem was simply a plugged fuel filter. Since it was an intermitten problem, it made it harder to diagnose. Not sure it relates to anyone else's issue, but it is simple to check or just simply replace the filter.

    To check for a plugged filter, hook a vacuum gauge up to the fuel line coimg out of the filter (between filter and fuel pump). If the vacuum reads over 10 in Hg, then the filter is plugged. I found the the vacuum is nearly zero with the new filter. It also pulses a bit in sequence with the fuel pump (a good thing).
  • just wanted to say thanks man i had the same prob with mine and changed the crank and cam shaft and got the throttle body cleaned and so far it works alot better. i had it fixed at a dealership by request and they said that the odb thing was still saying stuff was wrong with it after they put it those sensors but the malfunction light went off the day after. before i took it in i had codes p 0320, p0174, and p0700 which i got from inside the jeep by turning the key from off to run(not start) three times and then leaving it on run.(it showed on the odometer). mine is a 2003 jeep liberty limited.
  • I have a similar problem. When you turn the key everything as usual, but car just wont start. Light that are supposed to go on, go on, no weird sounds, battery working. Just not starting. In detail ...

    A few weeks ago the car just didn't start. I thought it was the classic battery problem, but radio, A/C and all lights worked. It just didn't do anything when I turned the key to start. Since AAA couldn't get the car started, we towed it to a mechanic. They called me the next day, asking what to do with the car, since it started right away. :confuse:

    So nothing was done and all was fine for a few days, then the same problem again. But this time I just waited a few hours and the car started again. I did notice, it seems to have something to do with the unlocking of the car. Everytime it wouldn't start, I had the car unlocked for several hours. So I figured it's a problem with the alarm (which was installed by one of the pre-owners) and disabled the alarm.

    All worked well for 2 weeks now, untill this morning. I had to grab something out of the car yesterday evening and forgot to unlock it again, this morning the car won't start again. I locked it again and try to find the 'time' I have to wait now until it will start again. I hope this is even the right idea I am having .... I ll keep you updated if it starts again in a few hours ...

    anyone else had a problem like this?
  • Update:

    As I thought, the car started again in the evening. I think I waited at least 5 hours, car running smooth as if nothing ever happened. I think I need to go to a dealership now, but I wonder what it can be after I disabled my alarm.
    Anything from JEEP, that secures the car if you leave it unlocked too long?
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