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(Other things to check: replace the speed sensor itself)
Does this mean an internal issue or just a linkage problem ?
Thanks in advance.
My Jeep liberty starts fine, no issues there. If it is cold, it will run just fine. Given 10 min or so the problem begins.
When i pull up to a stop sign, the RPM drops down to its idle level, then will slowly fade until the engine stalls and shuts off. If I am rolling down the road at any speed and let of the the accelerator and just let it cruise, it works just fine. It is only when the vehicle is not moving. Whether it is in Park, Neutral, or Drive doesn't make a difference. Once the vehicle has been running for 10 min or so, it does this every time.
I took it to a mechanic and they replaced the "Throttle position sensor." This was a fix for approximately a week. I took it back, they said the sensor was bad and replaced it again for free this time. This fix lasted for about 24 hours.
Now I am back to the same situation. Anyone got anything to help me? :mad:
Hope that helps!
Any ideas????
My jeep liberty 2002, 107k miles is having a hard time starting after hours of no usage, sometimes just enough to cool down the car, say, 3-4 hours. The car tries to start and dies immediately, the only way I can make it work is by accelerating to 3k-4k rpms, hold the pedal down for a few seconds, and then let it go.. sometimes it will stall and turn off and I have to keep trying, and sometimes it will stay at idle, after that, if I drive it and turn it off and on again, it will turn on like nothing ever happened, the mechanic changed the MAF sensor already though the computer is not giving out any codes, to the computer the car has nothing wrong and also I took it to another mechanic and told me there was nothing wrong with the car. I'm very afraid it will stall on the road like it's happening to you guys.
More details re: specific trips on which engine stalled. Each time, it was on afternoon drive home from work. Pulling up to stop at stoplight approximately 1 mile from workplace, engine stalled at almost exactly same moment that vehicle came to a stop, all three times. Have almost stalled a few other times, but have also pulled up to same light, same circumstances, with no problem.
No significant repair history for engine problems to speak of. All routine maintenance done per manual.
I see above mentions of "throttle body" problems, cable routing problems, fuel cap problems, and more. It's NOT the fuel cap, as best I can tell. There are no other issues with faulty speedometer readouts or the like, and I can't imagine why a cable problem would be so specifically intermittent, so to speak.
I've got an appt at the dealer's service dept. (please pray for me!), but I'd like to have some idea of what the problem is before they charge me an entire Obama stimulus package to (maybe) fix it.
Any ideas, suggestions, etc. are welcome.
Thanks
A bad battery will also cause similar trubble.
Is your engine already warm when it stalls coming to the stoplight you describe? I imagine your transmission oil is also "not yet at temperature".
Try engaging the "D" position on the transmission and hold the truck for a minute by applying the brakes: this will warm up the engine, cabin heater and transmission.
It works for me, so nowadays I let the engine run a few minutes while I get rid of the ice and snow off of my wife's vehicle and I don't disengage the transmission while waiting in the local traffic. 5 minutes later I reach the motor way with the engine warm and with the proper shifting sequence.
I really don't think it's a battery problem, given that the engine will restart immediately without difficulty, and it starts on cold mornings pretty much as it always has.
Regarding the Wix filter--you mention finding a "truck driver that drives or owns a diesel [pay if you have to]". Not sure I understand this bit at all. Why do I need to find a truck driver? Are these filters not available otherwise? What am I missing here?
Yes and no. It's now stalled--completely died, that is--four times. Each occurred within a mile or two of starting a trip. Some warm-up had been allowed for each episode. The warm-up time allowed for the engine during each of these circumstances varies from approx. 3 to as much as 20 min, all spent sitting in lot at idle. This last amount occurred as I sat in the lot, talking on my cell phone while the Jeep idled. [Call history says the phone call lasted 21 min.] I've not had the Jeep out on a trip of longer than about ten-12 miles in the last month, so can't tell you what it acts like at mile 45, say.
In phone call with tech this PM, I was told that (a) they didn't pull any codes from the vehicle's computer- when they hooked up "the Derby" to it to check for DTCs, (b) they couldn't replicate the problem when they drove it [of course not], (c), they'd been working on the scheduled maintenance (I'm doing the scheduled stuff same visit for convenience) and (d) I need new brake pads and rotors resurfaced. So, at 43,000 mi and change, I need new brakes (rear moreso than front), after replacing brake pads already at about 23,000, they don't know what the cause of my actual problem is, have little hope of figuring it out, and I'm considering trading the Jeep for a decent bird dog.
I tend to disengage the transmission because my engine pulls quite hard while idling cold: my driveway has a steady ramp of 25% incline and I don't need the brakes to hold the truck in place. If you try to push the Jeep on such a slope, you will better appreciate the power of the diesel engine when it idles; it has to choke or starve to die out.
Thanks!
Let's keep the discussion here so everyone will benefit. Doing otherwise tends to defeat the purpose of a Forum.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I am getting to my wits end with this.
The problem is it will start and run fine as long as I hold the gas pedal for about 10 to 30 seconds.
If I do not hold the gas pedal the jeep will start and the idle will drop below 500 RPM and it will die, this takes about 10 to 30 seconds after the engine fires.
It's sounding to me like a vacuum leak or the IAC. So I noticed the rubber hose connections to the plastic lines that come from the throttle body were cracked, so I replaced them, and I could not find the IAC spec's online to ohm it out, so I just went to autozone and payed the $70 for a new one.
After changing out the old cracked rubber hose connectors,checking for other vacuum leaks and replacing the IAC, it is still doing the same thing.
Starting and dieing/stalling.
The jeep runs fine after me holding the gas pedal for the 10-30 seconds, well it is using alittle more MPG than normal, I could go for 1.5 weeks on a tank of gas, now I am getting almost a week.
I am hoping the extra eyes and ears on this will get it cracked
When diagnostic codes showed the overdrive sensor not working I had it replaced but still didn't fix it. I came to this site and read the problem of the routing of the speed sensor wires located on the rear difrential. The problem is that they rub on the E-brake cable and once the wire is exposed they short and the speedometer and any other options running off the speed sensor quit working and that includes the tranny shift points and can cause the torque converter to not unlock and cause stalls. So I called my brother and asked him to check these wires and sure enough, they had worn through. We went to a dealer and got the replacement kit for $32.00 and my brother replaced it. He also took the time to encase the wires in a plastic tubing to avoid this problem again. I was looking to get rid of my jeep out of frusteration but I am glad to say this gilr is now keeping her Jeep!
Thanks,
Van
How many miles is in ur daughter's jeep?
I assume that NO check engine light is on, battery is new, starter is new.
It could be some ignition contacts that is part of the steering column. Visually, these contacts are probably made from some kind of zinc-lead alloy, that I "describe" as soft metal.
I had similar signs of this type of failure and had the steering column replaced. You can start it usually in the AM, when the weather is cold.
If my opinion is true, try putting the gear in N(eutral), step on the break and turn the ignition. Getting a new steering column yourself and pay only for labor, before the time comes when u can't hardly start the jeep, could be a factor to consider.
Jong (2002 Jeep liberty, 3.7L V6), L.A., Calif
Engine Oil = 5W30
Last Friday I drove doing errands, it was fine, came out from walmart, it started, RPM thing was bouncing like crazy, transmission light on and it immediately stalled. did this several times. I finally got it were I could put into reverse went 4 feet and stalled, did this several times. Furthest I got it was maybe 50 ft. Left the car there overnight, next day started and drove home fine.
I took it to my mechanic, there was the camshaft sensor error, but since the car ran fine I took it home. Have driven only very short trips and is OK. Today I went across town, 12 miles, and on the way back about 1 mile from my house going 45mph the RPM dial started bouncing like crazy, the engine stalled , transmission light on. Same as the other day it would start, then stall immediately. I waited, about 1 1/2 hour and then it started and drove fine. Was that because the engine was cool? Any Suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated, I am a single mom, with no husband, boyfriend or any mechanical knowledge myself, and did I mention I am also financially cash poor? so if I could tell the mechanic what it might be... that would be great. I have read the forums and many have replaced a lot parts and it still was not fixed, am hoping to avoid that. Thanks Susan
Changed oil and filter, Air filter, Spark Plugs, PCV Valve, Cleaned idle air control valve, cleaned throttle body.
Jeep ran fine for about 10 days.
Saturday, put in reverse, moved 4 feet, stalled out.
Replaced Cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor, throttle position sensor. Tested coils. All checked good.
Thinking it's the fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel pressure requlator. All one unit. Looking into changing that unit. Thoughts?
1) While stalling, the tach went crazy, jumping up to over 3000, down to 0, back and forth, until it stalled.
2) Engine light plus battery and oil lights went on. I had a Bluetooth OBD plugged in and using Torque on my phone the codes were P0320 (crank position sensor problem) and P1299 (Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully Seated) - MAP Sensor signal does not correlate to Throttle Position Sensor signal).
3) Battery seemed fine while first trying to re-start it, but then appeared completely dead 20 minutes later. I opened the door and the dome light wouldn't come on. Hazard lights were off. Turning the key got me nothing. Later, while on tow, the hazard lights came back on.
4) Mechanic couldn't find the problem. The charging system tested fine and he could start it, but it ran rough, like on two cylinders. And the catalytic converter got red hot right away.
Any ideas at all?
His problem, and mine, too, why did three coils go bad at once? And considering the weird electrical and tach behavior, I'm guessing there's more to the root cause. Computer? Other electrical problem?
And what about low compression? Are we looking at more problems down the road?