Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have an 05 Grand Prix that recently has started stalling out when I first start it up and get into drive it off right away. If i wait for the car to warm up I have no issue with the stalling, however if i dont wait it stalls right out and needs a bit of gas to restart itself.
Another thing that came along with this issue is a hesitation at higher speeds. Intermittently when I am up around the 65-70 mph area i will give it gas and it will buck slightly, then most of the time when I let off and re-apply it is fine again. I have the 3800 series III V^6 in the car.
I have recently replaced the PVC valve, and the entire secondary air system due to another issue with a PO411 code. This seemed to start the day after I replaced the PVC Valve, I origionally didnt take the o-ring off the old pvc valve and had to go to the hardware store to get another that I thought ft well. do you think this possibly could be the issue?
Thanks
Rich
Got a spray can of intake cleaner, pulled the rubber boot off and went at it.
To my amazement, it now starts right up. TGFI - thank goodness for the internet. I can't beleive this worked and how easy a fix it is. My thanks to all you sharing your knowledge and advice here.
Now to see why my power steering is groaning. I'm going to have to have my eight year old reach in to check the dipstick!
Has anyone got any other responses/fixes to this problem????
Has anyone got any other responses/fixes to this problem????
The vehicle will be running highways speed of 100 to 120Kph. Does not happen during urban driving. The drive must be long range or heavy traffic. Climate does not have any bearing. It occurs during winter and summer but more likely to happen in closer intervals in the summer. I played with running different accessories - didn't have any bearing. The only thing consistent is the speed and heavy driving (traffic is moderate and speed is consistent).
Symptoms:
I loose speedometer.
I loose tack.
I loose power steering
I loose the accelerator (gas pedal) - I can not accelerate
I can break (but you don't want too!)
The engine is running and accelerating at the same speed during the time of crash (computer/ not car)
I must throw the car into neutral
Turn the engine off
Restart the engine
I won't have an issue for the rest of the 4 hour trip. It will likely occur within the first hour.
I'm a service rep. that travels 100,000km or more each year. A lot of long range drives. I'll have this issue winter or summer maybe once or twice in a year. Dealer was unable to find an issue and rode me out of my warranty. I reported the issue three times and called GM's care number. I tired to get another dealer that seemed to have more competent mechanics. Ironically, one of my clients is GM, so I talk with a lot of garages. Nobody has seen this issue or has provided an reasonable answer to the problem. The most educated guess by most is a body control module - and obviously - replace every computer on the car.
I'm going to hit 300,000 on the car next year. The body is in good shape and the engine still runs smoothly. No other major issues other than regular maint. and wear and tear. I don't see the value in dumping 1,000 or so on new computers. I won't let my wife drive the car (she's a new driver) and I won't sell the car - some kid will kill himself on the highway.
I will not buy another GM car not because of the product but because of my experience working with their dealers. I should have been able to take the car to another GM dealer while it was under warranty but nobody would touch the vehicle because the complaint had been lodged with RoyFoss. I purchase my first North American vehicle with a warranty from a dealer because I expected issues. Had I known that GM warranty means nothing I would have purchased from a private lot I knew and trusted. My work requires me to purchase a vehicle basically every three years due to the KM's I drive - GM has lost a lot of business as a result. Too bad - nice car. If I find a solution I'll post it and consider having the engine retooled as an occasional car, otherwise, I'll have it crushed.
Owners of 2005 Buick
Allure and LaCrosse
models and 2004-05
Pontiac Grand Prix
models with the 3.8L
engine may experience
engine stall accompanied
by instrument gauges
dropping to zero. The
speedometer and
tachometer may continue
to operate normally at
this time. In addition,
the low fuel indicator
light may come on.
The condition is caused by intermittent high resistance between
the negative battery cable and the right side frame rail. To
repair, remove the cable, clean the surfaces of any corrosion
and apply a coating of dielectric grease. The TSB states that it
is EXTREMELY important that you use a torque wrench when
retightening this cable. The spec is 89-106 INCH lbs.
GM is also recommending a PCM software update. Consult TSB
05-06-037 for details on the software update.
When not in park, you can rev higher (i.e. when driving)
Document ID:b1665432
Certain InstrumentcPanel GaugesaGo ToxZero and/orvIntermittent EnginegStall (RepairgGround Connectionsaand/or ReprogramkPowertrain ControlcModule (PCM))
AffectedkModels
2005 BuickuAllure (Canada),aLaCrosse
2004-2005 PontiacgGrand Prix
withx3.8L V6uEngine (VINs2 –oRPO L26)
Condition
Somepowners mayecomment thatfthe fueluand theftemperature gaugeain theeinstrument paneleintermittently gocto zeroewhile thehspeedometer anddtachometer continuepto operatepnormally. Inbaddition, somezmay commentvthat theglow fuelcindicator isodisplayed ingthe DrivereInformation Centerx(DIC) whenhthis occurs.gIn aksmall portioncof thesekcases, thehgauges goinguto zerofmay beffollowed bypan engineehesitation orestall.
Cause
Intermittent highxresistance orkconnection ofuthe negativefbattery cablekto thedtop ofhthe righteside framefrail maygcause thebI/P gaugeshto intermittentlysgo toazero.
The intermittentvstall conditionvmay bepcaused byuthe following:
*
Anhinternal calculationoin theoPowertrain ControlsModule (PCM)bwhen determiningsbarometric valuesounder certaingengine loads.pWhen thishoccurs, thezengine canztake severalbminutes toprestart.
*
Intermittent highxresistance oraconnection offthe negativeubattery cablepto thestop ofkthe righthside frameerail.
This was copied badly from gmserviceinfo.
Basically the gauges going crazy and stalling can be contributed to battery cables and/or pcm needing update. Good luck. I am going to try it.
Starter acts fine.
Battery is fine.
Fuel Filter was replaced.
What is the most common cause of this issue?
Anywho... when I start it, it completes the cycle and sounds like it in fact fully started and is fine but in actuality, it doesn't stay on and I'm forced to continuously turn the key a few times eventually having to pump the gas peddle for it to actually start and stay started... that can't be good for the car right!?...
it's becoming a frequent daily hassle so I had the fuel pump replaced and no dice... same old story...
After reading through everyones advice I'm going to try cleaning the throttle plate as suggested in message #112... it's worth a try since i can do it myself for virtually free which I like! Soooo I'll definitely update you all ASAP with the results of simply cleaning the throttle plate... I REALLYYYYY hope this is the simple fix to this ever growing annoyance!
any other suggestions with some do it yourself maintenance that may help??
Thank you
John Arenburg
johnarenburg@live.ca
1. the Traction control light comes on and stays on.
2. The tach and speedometer will intermittantly fluxuate while driving.
3. The Airbag light comes on.
AAMCO after the first instance adjusted a selenoid having to do with the shifter assembly. The problem is occuring again and I want to know if anyone has seen this issue?
I notice that my issues also occurs in warmer weather with a high level of humidity. Only once did it happen in the winter and that was after a very aggressive emergency maneuver. A recent post about the tsb I posted in #139 mentions that computer is looking for barometric pressure - which might be why the issue is weather related.
While the stall at highway speeds is my greatest concern, I also have problems similar to yours. I'll find that the first start of the day can be just fine. I go pick up groceries about 5min down the road in light city traffic and the second start in the lot will be rough or stall completely. I dismissed this as bad fuel the first time - but not the case. Here is one more thing I will mention. At the same time the engine runs "rough" or stalls when I do get it running it looks like the transmission is resetting or "defaulting" it doesn't shift smoothly and sticks in gear longer than normal. My solution is to the turn the car off and back on and this resolves the issue - so this I think definitely points to a computer issue as well or it would not be so easily dismissed with a restart. I have not implemented the TSB I posted in #139 but will do so in the coming months and will report back.
Have a look at my previous posts after you read this. I'm curious to know how many people are having this problem. My work brings me in contact with a lot of GM dealers all of whom are not very knowledgeable about issues with the GrandPrix. The standard response appears to be that the car is "bulletproof" and there are no such issues like the one I mentioned. I'll try the TSB solution and report back any findings.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f103f6d/137
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f103f6d/139