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Pontiac Grand Prix Starting / Stalling Issues

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Comments

  • prochieprochie Member Posts: 11
    It doesn't surprise me so much. My first job in IT was working for a Freightliner Dealership. The mechanics had me do the firmware updates and programming for the assortment of engines (benz, detroit, cummins) because it involved touching a keyboard. On these larger rigs you can actually do an in-flight diagnostics and tune-ups remotely over a cell phone uplink. Adjust fuel intake and lifters etc. - it is pretty amazing. Photocopier companies also rely heavily on firmware updates to fix manufacturing flaws and timing issues in their engines after the product goes to market.

    Anyways, even though these are GM cars a lot of stuff is computer driven - for example the gas pedal is a fly-by-wire system which explains why I loose gas when the computer crashes. The firmware update is a dealer task. I doubt that the average mechanic would be able to get their hands on the software unless they are paying for a high-end service catalog but the battery cable looks easy enough and I'm hoping that solves the issue. Firmware updates can be risky there is a 50% chance they can toast the computer module. There are some very good mechanics at some GM dealerships but most of these are knuckle draggers. I wish I could do it myself - at least I would know what I was doing.

    I'm going to the dealer to pick-up some parts I'll ask what is involved and will get back here next week. Less ambiguity. I don't really expect this to solve the starting/ stalling problem - just the stalling at highways speeds.

    However, while writing this email I did think of something, there is no throttle cable but there must be something throttling the engine. I would imagine there would be build-up and wear on this component. If this sticks it would idle the engine roughly and too high at times or stall the engine by not giving it enough gas. Just a thought, I'll have a look at mine.
  • happyland29happyland29 Member Posts: 2
    I have a "97 Grand Prix GP with 46k. Whether I've driven it for 5 mins or 3 hrs,after stopping and turning engine off, if will not retstart, engine turns over real healthy, but will not fire. If I wait for 3 hrs (approx) it will then fire off, like there was never a problem. But I must wait at least 3 hrs before attempting to restart. If I attempt to start it any sooner than 3 hrs, it will not be successful and I will have to start 3 hr cycle all over again. What kind of problem does this appear to be, other than the fact it's a Pontaic ?
  • angcanangcan Member Posts: 2
    is replacing the fuel pump the same as replacing the fuel pressure regulator? or are these 2 unrelated parts?
  • arenburgarenburg Member Posts: 10
    This could be the anti theft system shutting down the engine. (thinks its being stolen.
  • arenburgarenburg Member Posts: 10
    I had the crankshaft position sensor replaced in my car. After having it back for less then 30mins the thing hitched and the check engine light started flashing. I barley got it back to the shop. it stalled on me once. When it was scanned, it only showed a minor skip. This was preformed while the technician had it out for a spin. Other then that it ran great. All he can figure is that one of the coils are weak. hopefully this was just a glitch time will tell. By the way does anyone have any idea what a new coil pack costs?
  • cristyzcristyz Member Posts: 8
    No these are two different parts. The fuel pressure regulator is located at the front of the engine. I had this fixed and I have not had any stalling issues since then.
  • heffemeyerheffemeyer Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find the solution to your starting problem. I have a 99 GTP, took it to the gym Thursday, jumped in Friday and no start. Doesn't even attempt to turn over no click nothing, I have power to everything else, tried jumping no change, dropped starter and it tested fine, any ideas, seems to be no power to the starter but checked and there is voltage at the starter???
  • arenburgarenburg Member Posts: 10
    After having no success at my local shop I had to have a GM dealer come and pick up the car at a cost of 75 bucks. They say it is the Cat converter. I would recommend that before you start messing around with sensors have a back pressure test down to see if youre cat is the problem. What I can't figure out is why it went really nuts when they put the new CPS sensor in. Perhaps both were bad, but before that the car worked. Not great but it ran. Here's to hoping that this fixes the problem, will let you all know.

    My car has 121,000km's on it my so they replaced cat converter for free, the PCM is also covered. So if anyone else is having similar difficulties ask your dealer about this. FOr my car its covered until 130 or april of 2012.
  • arenburgarenburg Member Posts: 10
    Well Gm techs are unable to figure out what's wrong with this piece sh. Ignition mod, cat converter nothing seems to be working # 1 and Number 4 cyl are acting up they are calling in an electrical specialist in today to try and determine what the problem is.I say its mechanical or PCM whatwvwer it is this will be the last GM I ever buy.
  • madmammamadmamma Member Posts: 1
    :mad: I have a 1999 Grand Prix GTP and was driving, clipping along like she likes to do, when she just stopped running. I had her towed where the fuel sensor was replaced. She still had a "hesitation" in her purr.It was slight,I noticed because I know my car.Again while driving she stalled and again she was towed.Needless to say $3000 and four tows later,the offical diagnosis from the mechanics was theres nothing wrong,there are no codes so its posessed or just doesn't like me anymore.
    Of course,I pulled out of their lot...and stalled! Is there any info from GM or through any less opinionated mechanics that can help me?
    I love my car and she only has 118,000 miles. I take excellent care of her but when you open the hood it looks nothing like my 1970 Cutlass w/ 350 Rocket. I Know being female with a dead car is a total disadvantage but since so many others have had and are having this problem SOMEONE has to be able to help.
  • arenburgarenburg Member Posts: 10
    Hi there. Did you have a GM tech look at it or someone else? I initially had another shop look at my car (other then GM) and their code reader could not pick up anything other then a skip. the GM scan tool picked up all kinds of things. However, it did not fix the problem and is still there after 2 weeks. They don't know what it is. Try having GM scan it. It may produce codes you need to point you in the right direction. I am having similar problems I believe it to be the PCM (computer).
  • arenburgarenburg Member Posts: 10
    has anyone ever encountered these oddities

    -Scan tool shows 2 PCMs when there is only 1

    -Updating the software crashes computer x2 on 3rd attempt it took update.

    - Crankshaft position sensor shows a difference of only a few RPMS then in a second Shows a difference of 1000RPM (crankshaft position sensor is new|).

    My guess bad PCM or Crankshaft sensor?????

    Techs have never come across this before.

    2005 pontiac grand prix 3800v6 no bells or whistles

    johnarenburg@live.ca
  • joglejogle Member Posts: 1
    My Grand Prix GTP has 109,000 miles on it. A few days ago it began to stall on me. When the engine is cool, be it the first start of the day or after setting for a few hours, it will run fine for 10 to 15 minutes. After 10 to 15 minutes the engine begins to run extremely rough and will stall within 5 to 10 seconds. I have changed the fuel filter, all 3 coils, plug wires, and spark plugs but this did not help any. Does anybody know what the problem might be?
  • arenburgarenburg Member Posts: 10
    my cat converter was partly plugged causing a similar problem have your shop do a back pressure test on it. Also the crankshaft position sensor could be bad get it scanned.
  • the5the5 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my car. I have took it to the dealer they said it was the fuel injector and fuel filter. I fix both of the problems and it still doing the same thing. Can you please help me if you find out. If I find anything else out I will let you know. :confuse:
  • tamaradotamarado Member Posts: 1
    My car will start fine when it is in the garage or the weather is cool. If it sits out in the hot sun, the car will not start. I open the hood and all the doors and the car will start after it cools. Takes anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours depending on how hot it is. There is power, but it will not turn over. Have had the control module replaced along with the crank sensor. Thought it was fixed then weather warmed up a week later and it is the same thing again. Any idea what the heck may be the problem?

    The other issue has been the key stuck in the ignition. Not always, rather randomly. Have replaced the key and the tumblers in the ignition. Helped for about two weeks. Again, any help would be appreciated.
  • carcrazedchickcarcrazedchick Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Grand Prix Gtp Supercharged 3800 3.8L and have been having problem that even the mechanics cant figure out. After starting the car it runs great for about 5 to 10 mins till it gets warmed up. Once warmed the car's rpm gauge jumps between 400 rpms and 1200 rpms, this only happens when slowing to a stop (under 25 mph) and sitting in drive or park. if continuing to run the car's rpms will jump lower and lower until it sputters and stalls out. Once this has happened if you turn the key just enough to turn the radio on but not start the car the rpm gauge will jump slightly. We have replaced the mass air flow sensor, the idle air control valve (which actually made it run worse), repaired exhaust manifold gasket leak, checked vacuum lines (no leaks), tune up (spark plugs and spark plug wires), and oil change. After doing everything but the idle air control valve the car ran great for about half a day then the same problem.
    We also have a knocking coming from the supercharger. A mechanic said it will eventually need to be replaced and may be causing the problems but cant be sure. The car has awesome power and runs great except when under 25mph.
    I am in dire need of some help! Cant keep dumping money into this car forever! Starting to get to be more than its worth.

    Also the driver information center is very very dim, can not read it unless the sun is shining directly on it. Have any ideas? Can definitely live with it but just figured id mention it!

    Anyways Thank you for any help!!!

    :cry:
  • bighurtbighurt Member Posts: 2
    Help! I was driving my car all day with no issues. I park at the dmv to register my new gtp, I come out 45 mins later to a car that wont start. After many tries, it started and i thought it was fine, but right down the street it stalled out and did not want to restart. After many tries again, it hesitated to start and blew out loads of smoke, then ran smooth. Then stalled. Then would not restart again. WTF!!!??? Bad first impression of my fun car. 2000 gtp with 90,000.
  • bighurtbighurt Member Posts: 2
    IT was the MAF sensor.
  • showbizjakeshowbizjake Member Posts: 4
    so the first time happened a year ago when i parked it at the lake sat all day was very hot out and i went to start and nothing the lights all pop on and ya hear one click from the dash. it didn't happen until this last few months where it's increasing and now it's sitting in the shop wont start but randomly and normally i have to turn the key really fast multiple times in row for it to work. i changed the battery and cleaned off the terminals, checked my alternator, changed the ignition relays, my brother checked my starter said it was good. it always used to start every morning but if i where to start it in the afternoon wouldn't work have hadnt had to tow it yet cuz if it sits for a while it will start after i work the ignition. its weird and getting frustrating any help would be much appreciative
  • showbizjakeshowbizjake Member Posts: 4
    did you ever find the solution to the problem. because my 97 is doing that i checked evrything and have ran out of ideas...
  • showbizjakeshowbizjake Member Posts: 4
    my car is having a similar problem, normally it happens on hot days now it just random. did you ever find the problem would help me alot. im all out of ideas lol
  • showbizjakeshowbizjake Member Posts: 4
    problem found...well in my case. so i replaced my starter... not it, checked my alternator...not it, changed the battery...not it, changed my relays...not it, the problem in my case is in the ignition the yellow wire needed to be replaced so if any one has this simillar problem this is my answer so dont go spending alot of money :P :P http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/- emotorcons/emo_tongue.gif
  • goodgirlalhgoodgirlalh Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2008 GP ... purchased in march since then towed twice... taken in four times and boosted my self at least a dozen... heres the problem...

    get in turn the key all i get is a clicking noise (very fast 30 times in 30 sec's) resets clock, date etc... and display says charging system failure, sum times the horn will even go off in the process... sumtimes it will start but still reset the system ... dealer says cant find problem... im now less then 10,000 kms away from b-b warr off the car they say they will " fix " after but i dont trust them....

    anyone with same problem? possiable fixes to problem?? anyhelp is a place to start
  • smv1smv1 Member Posts: 14
    we have a 1997 pontiac grand prix gt and had simialar problem until we replaced the cam shaft sensor & crank shaft sensor. The key problem was resolved by a loose wire in the console between the ignition colum; this is an automatic. I hope this help's you.
  • pontiacinkypontiacinky Member Posts: 2
    This is my car!
    I sat in the driveway this morning for 25 minutes cranking away.
    Then suddenly and unaccountably: perfect start!

    I'll be on the road driving along and the engine will die. No fluttering before hand (although I've noticed the flutter while pressing uphill). Just sudden death.

    I've learned a great deal about maneuvering a dead car off the road, but would prefer some fellow owner advice before taking the car to the mechanic.
  • smv1smv1 Member Posts: 14
    My daughter has a 1997 Grand Prix GT and we were having the same problems, our solution was replacing both the cranksaft sensor and the camsaft sensor. They work togther and the Hall effect is refered to in repair manuals as the problem, any way we repaced one at a time; with the cranksaft sensor replaced last. I believe that this intermitent problem is only when these sensors get too hot. I hope that this resolves your current problem;since this was our solution and we have not had this stalling issue or starting problem.... Sergio.
  • jessewoo15jessewoo15 Member Posts: 4
    Hey Everyone,

    I've been dealing with a stalling/starting issue for about a month. 2002 Grand Prix, 3.8 liter. The car initially stalled while driving. The tack dropped to zero, i lost power steering, had to pull over. The car started fine and I was able to drive it home. The car started fine and drove over to the mechanic no problem. He replaced a vacuum sensor somewhere, the crank sensor, a cam sensor, a throttle sensor, and checked all the wires to make sure they weren't shorting out. The codes indicated it was a CAS but that's been replaced twice, still stalling out. This car is like Jekyl and Hide, I can't point to a single behavior which makes it stall. Sometimes it will start, sometimes it won't. He seems to think the computer (PCM?) needs to be replaced. Could it be the MAF like other people have suggested, or the fuel pump regulator?
  • rjp81489rjp81489 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 grand prix gt 3.8. Ive taken it to 4 mechanics and none of them could figure out this problem includeing the dealership. They always tell me they dont know cause it doesnt do it to them no matter how much in detail i describe the problem.

    I bought my car memorial day, my first car so im still learning things about them as i go along. Sometimes it doesnt start, i have to step on the gas while turning the key to get it to start.

    Lately, it has been studdering when im stepping on the gas. I was driving on my way home from work today and my car was studdering then eventaully stalled out. No matter if i floored it or if i stepped on it , the car would not accelerate and in which caused it to stall out. After it stalled i tried starting it, however it would crank over but never actually ever start. Till like 20 minutes later when god finnaly cut me a breake and let it start and i was able to drive home with it like nothing happened.
    My friend also believes that i am getting a fuel cut when i start my car he made me rev my engine and said it sounded like i was getting a fuel cut

    PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME. I would be extremely greatful, this is my first car and i cannot afford to get another one.

    thank you very much guys.
  • rjp81489rjp81489 Member Posts: 2
    befor it dies out does your car studder with the gas like no matter how hard you press it it wont go and then all of sudden accelerate. and if you cant start it do you step on the gas to get it tod do it? cause thats my same problem, if you find a solution please let me know.
  • pat_from_grovepat_from_grove Member Posts: 5
    To all those with the same problems:

    My 1999 Grand Prix has been acting up with all the same symptoms many people described. Engine cut out at highway or low speed; hard to start after a hot shut down; the Trac light stayed on after the engine cut out and immediate restart in neutral etc. It was getting worse lately with the hot weather. I contemplated replacing the crank position sensor, mass air flow sensor, PCM one at a time, and hundreds of $ at a time, like many people before me. Then, I found the way to fix my problem at ZERO DOLLAR!
    I figured that it could be a voltage problem. I used a multi-meter. I measured the voltage across my battery, which show the normal 12.7 V. But from the positive terminal junction to a good ground on the engine (e.g. Al engine mount) the voltage has dropped down. I also measure the conductivity as well, and I did not get zero Ohm between the negative terminal to the good ground spot on the engine. I removed the grounding cable attached to the body panel and found that it was bolted on to a part with original body paint! What a bad design! Paint is not the best conductor in the world! After years of dirt and rust build-up, the conduction between the bolt threads won't be as good as before. So you get intermittent voltage drops that stalled the engine. I gave the contact a good rubbing with sand paper. I check voltage and conductivity after and it was good as you would expect. Since than, I never had a single staling. It has been three weeks with lots of kilometers in hot weather.
    I trust that the same remedy will solve a lot of your problems. I apologize to many garages for reducing tens of thousands of dollars of their potential business.
  • prochieprochie Member Posts: 11
    Yup!

    I have a 2005 GP base model - I had similar issues. My engine did not die at hwy speeds BUT the computer would crash leaving me to fly a dead elephant down the hwy with no gas or instruments. There is a secret GM TSB I pasted it a while back for Chev, Pontiac and Buick cars running on the Impala platform. The first recommendation is to check the ground strap and the second procedure is to flash the PCM's with a firmware update (not your naked body - although you can try this for kicks). I did what you did and cleaned off the strap and have had no issues apart from a rough start after a hard drive which is likely an oxy sensor on its way out or a filter. Good on yah dude - that's a good fix. Sorry you had to spend so much money - but it sure feels good when you stop!
  • esoneesone Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone. First off, thanks for taking the time to read my post.

    I have recently bought a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 3.1 for $600.
    When I purchased it, it had the Low Coolant light on, and check engine light on.
    I knew right off the go what the coolant light was. Damage to the intake manifold gasket due to the DexCool that was in the cooling system. I had that replaced. The Low Coolant light is still blinking, I'm thinking it is a bad sensor because I had also just replaced the radiator cap and upper hose, no further leaks are found in a pressure test. Oil was changed when intake was replaced as to get out all the coolant/water from the engine oil. This is not my main problem.

    The main problem is the car has a somewhat of a rough idle. More now than before.When you start the car (It starts fine by the way) the RPMs fluctuate from 500 RPM - 1000 RPM. It doesn't die out, but sounds sluggish. It is fine while moving, and when it slows back down to idle, it fluctuates only minorly.
    The Check Engine light I am getting is for a Camshaft Positioning Sensor.
    I know where it is, and how to change it. But, would this be the reason of why it is acting so strangely?
  • smv1smv1 Member Posts: 14
    Hello, well if you currently being advised that the camshaft positioning sensor needs replacing: this may solve your problem but if it continues then you will more than likely need to replace the crankshaft positioning sensor also since they both work in conjunction with each other. If you get a automotive manuel for this you will find and read about the " Hall Effect ".... Good Luck with your new toy! smv1
  • jessewoo15jessewoo15 Member Posts: 4
    Hey all,

    I had my 2002 grand prix at a local mechanic with stalling issues. Sometimes it would start, and stalls near idle, but has also stalled while driving. He initially fixed some vacuum seal and that didn't do the trick. He replaced the crankshaft position sensor and that didn't work either. I took it to a dealership where they put in a new PCM and ignition control module, not a damn thing. The service engine light just came on (after all of this work) and it's reading P0300, multiple random misfires, and i have no idea what the problem is. It will start and run beautifully sometimes, other times it takes multiple attempts to stay running (will turn over, quickly die), and often it will run very rough and will "rev" for no reason. Anyone!?
  • pat_from_grovepat_from_grove Member Posts: 5
    I wrote earlier that I solved my problem (all the same symptoms) by just cleaning up the battery ground cable. It cost next to nothing if you or a friend can do that yourselves. Check for voltage drop or whether there is any resistance between the battery negative terminal and a good ground spot on the engine. I did not spend a single penny on replacing any of the components mentioned. It worked for me. It may not work in your case but it is worth a try. Please let us know the results if you do that.
  • severedstarseveredstar Member Posts: 3
    I have a '99 Grand Prix GTP with about 65K on it. Car never had any problems until recently, and I'll explain: I purchased gas at a diff gas station than I normally do (I try to stay with one particular "brand"), got the premium as always, no issues. After getting home and trying to start the car back up again it kept sputtering when I accelerated, and died out when at a complete stop. The car will start back up again, no problem. If I get the car to maintain a certain speed (highway driving, for example) I have no issue with stalling or sputtering when accelerating. It seems to happen if I am: A) at a complete stop - it will sputter, jerk forward, then sometimes die out (not always though). B )if I am starting to accelerate after a stop/starting up the car will start to sputter. If I let it run idle the car will sputter, and the lights will dim as well with each sputter, as well as the RPM gauge moving up with each sputter. I have already changed my fuel filter, and I had added some Lucas fuel additive in case it was bad gas. Is that a possibility? I still have not run all of this gas out of my tank (I got a full tank) I also had taken the car to both Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts for the free diagnostic check and neither place showed my car as to having any codes to figure out what the problem could be. (also there is no Check Engine Light on). I don't have a lot of money (paycheck to paycheck living here lol), and since no codes/engine light are coming up then what could the issue be? Any help would be appreciated, thank you so much!!
  • 05grandprix05grandprix Member Posts: 8
    I had similiar problems, car would start then stall, idle would bounce around. The problem is your fuel injectors and body is dirty and you need it professionally cleaned by a pontiac dealer. It's called a BJ Fuel inject and they take off the cover and clean all of the injectors and body. It costs about $100 but well worth the money as I immediatly saw a jump in my MPG's. Used to be around 19-20, now I'm around 23-25. The cleaning will pay for itself in no time. I made no other changes at the same time and this immediatly solved my problem. I did change the oil & filter, fuel filter, and air filter about a month after just to make sure my car had everything it needed to last. You have to remember that the oil is the blood of your car, the engine is the heart, the air filter your lungs, collant is your clothes to keep you at the correct temp, and the gas is your food (fuel). If any of these gets clogged up you are going to have problems. You should always check each of these things everytime you get an oil change done to make sure there is no problems (except fuel filter as that can wait 4 or more oil changes).
  • pontiacinkypontiacinky Member Posts: 2
    I've been there: I really hoped at first that my car's issue was that one day I had simply gotten gas at a cheapie place. $811 in repairs later, I'm sad to say that it wasn't.

    However, I'll also say: The guys at the garage NEVER had a problem with the car.

    For them, it always ran great.

    For me, it often refused to start or just died in the middle of traffic.

    The car runs fine now, but I feel some loss in power -- as if the V6 has gone down to a fully functioning 4-cylinder.
  • jessewoo15jessewoo15 Member Posts: 4
    Hey Pat,

    thank you for your response. I did indeed try that fix. I used a wire brush to clean up the terminal, the screw, and the frame of the car where they all bolt together. I was initially encouraged because my car started quicker than I'm accustomed to, however it faded within minutes as the car stalled while idling. I spoke with the dealer again today who had been working on it. They test drove it last week with an Ignition Control Module (factory) from a spare engine they had in the shop and they said it never gave them a single problem. After installing my aftermarket part ("standard" brand) it didn't give me any problems after 3 short trips but sure enough, it stalled out again. This is the first time the CEL came on too, code P0300 (random multiple misfires), and the engine was oddly "revving" after a cold start, it would run rough too. They're going to put their ICM back in and let me test drive it for a few days, assuming it doesn't give them any problems. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
  • smv1smv1 Member Posts: 14
    If your friend believes that you are getting a fuel cut; then I would suggest that you check your fuel preasure with a gauge. the guage will cost $35.00 to $45.00. If you do have low preasure, I would estimate that a new fuel pump will be aprox - $300.00 ..... Good luck and please post your result's....Sergio.
  • severedstarseveredstar Member Posts: 3
    Actually last night on my way home from work on the highway at 60MPH it decided to die out, I was able to get on the shoulder, kick it in neutral, and crank it back up with no problem. That was when my Check Engine Light FINALLY came on. A blessing in disguise! I took it to autozone, a code came up for bad/defective MAF sensor. The ACDelco MAF sensor is around 300, the Cordone brand is 150. Do I really need the ACDelco MAF sensor? I am also going to buy an air filter no worries there. But its double the price of the off-brand, and I know ACDelco is GM made but I don't really have that kind of money to spend right now and I need the car to run smoothly so I don't end up sh*tting bricks on the highway again LOL. By the way 05grandprix, I get 25 MPG right now, but then again I do a lot of highway driving (50+ miles daily). I had my oil changed in Sept, and I get it changed religiously along with checking coolant/power steering fluid levels etc. Ive had the car for 6 years and Ive put 15-20K on it, it's only been the last few months with my new job downtown that I've had to drive so much, but I would still change my oil and everything accordingly. Thank you for your advice everyone!!! I just need to know now if I really do need the ACDelco MAF sensor or if the off-brand is just as good due to $ issues. Thank you!
  • severedstarseveredstar Member Posts: 3
    Oh I feel ya! My boyfriend is going to go ahead and install the MAF sensor (I dont have $ to go to a shop, you spending $811 makes me shudder!), but whenever he drove the car to "feel" the sputters/lurching it ran fine. It ran fine on the highway for him too. But as soon as I get behind the wheel....LOL
  • pat_from_grovepat_from_grove Member Posts: 5
    Hi Jesse,

    Too bad that what you did to the grounding cable did not fix your problem, My '99 Grand Prix GT was stalling up to 3 times per day until I cleaned and removed the paint from the grounding point. The stalling stopped immediately and I have driven over 8000 km (5000 miles) in one month since then (I have to drive into Detroit almost everyday for the past 4 weeks and desperately needed to have that problem fixed). Since I did not spend a penny on the fix, I bought an OBD-II analyser (on sale) with the money I saved so that I don't have to run to my friends to check for error or pending codes. By-the-way, there were never any codes tripped after the stalls.
    The key to see whether your grounding cable is a problem or whether you have fixed it properly, if it is, is to use a multi-meter to check for voltage drop or resistance that should not be there. A consummer grade digital multi-meter costs about $25. It is worth getting if you don't have one or can borrow one easily. You should confirm the engine, therefore all components such as PCM, sensors, etc. are seeing the full battery voltage. The unwanted resistance may be in a different part of the circuit. A multi-meter has many other usages too. Good luck!
  • smv1smv1 Member Posts: 14
    My daughter's car is a 1997 grand prix and I replaced the MAF sensor with the Cardone brand and it has worked out fine ....Good luck...Sergio.
  • jessewoo15jessewoo15 Member Posts: 4
    The dealership replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor and I've been driving it for 2 days now without any stalling issues. Too bad it was after a PCM ($1000) and Ignition Contol Module ($400) and Crank Angle Sensor ($400). If you're having these same issues I'd certainly recommend taking a shot at the MAF yourself. It's very easy to get to and swaps out with a special screwdriver, the parts will be under $200.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Can I swap the starter from 3.5 engine into a 3.8? :confuse:
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    I just picked up a 20004 Grand Prix GT.My question is.Is there suposed to be a 1sec delay before it cranks? :confuse:
  • docsjeepdocsjeep Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find the root of the problem with your Grand Prix? My girlfriend is having the same exact problem with hers and of course the shop can't find what is wrong because it is not doing it while they have it. What makes it more frustrating for me right now is that she is not near my location so i just can't go down and help her whenever I like. So your experience may help me more rapidly answer the problem in a shorter amount of time. Thank You.
  • downriverninjadownriverninja Member Posts: 2
    So, I have a 97 Grand Prix GT. (my baby) and for the past couple weeks when it hits 110 degrees the RPM meter drops to 0 and makes the car die sometimes. I have no idea what to do. A friend suggested that it might be the ignition switch, but that doesn't seem right to me. Oh, and when the engine is hot the car wont start at all. it trys to, but just keeps turning over. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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