Duane, my son has a 2004 Aztec that the key will not turn. The steering wheel will turn so we could move it to a workable location. It seems to have plenty of battery power, lights worked fine and door beeper works. You spoke of a black pin behind the steering wheel and a push pin you put a block under. I think I found the push pin, there is one behind the key mechinisim but not sure where the one behind the wheel is. You also spoke of an on line manual, is this something any one can get access to or do you need a subscription to get access to it? I am going to work on the car tomorrow to see if I can get anywhere with it so any suggestions would be welcomed. DeWayne
Hi DeWayne... Wow...another Azturd problem... I learned to hate that vehicle.. and it wasn't even mine.. I fixed the problem permanently so my friend could drive it without ever being stranded again... A couple weeks later, her daughter was driving it and it got smashed into and rolled.. So...no more Aztec..
Under the bottom half of the plastic housing behind the steering wheel, toward the right side, is a black pin that clears the pin inside that locks the lock mech from turning.. It is a bear to remove the housing, without the steering wheel being removed (Yes, that is part of the procedure to get at this area)..but I managed to remove the top and bottom of this housing...One has to remove the key switch first to clear the plastic housing.. and in order to do that, one has to turn the key to the "On" position, which is not possible with the condition you have right now..
My recommendation to you is to cut the plastic apart so you can remove the top half of the housing... You can find another housing at a junk yard later to replace it.. I glued that slide upwards so the solenoid pin will always be out...and placed a block of hard foam below the in that you push as a back up method..and then put it all back together.. Worked fine until it got creamed!..
They do not make a printed manual for the Aztec, so had to go online.Online manual was one bought for $20 at AutoZone.. ALLDATA diy.com, I believe.. Was worthless for any schematics on electricals.. I did get a decent diagram of the pin and all from it.... If I can locate the diagram again, I can send via email.. My email address is dak507@plateautel.net
Your problem is some different as you can turn your steering wheel...it should be locked if key is locked... I don't know exactly what you have, but willing to help, if I can...duane
This piece is a writeup from the online manual... I disabled this function, in order for the owner to operate her Aztec... Worked fine.. Her original issue was she could not remove her key after turning car off.. Would not turn far enough to remove key and sometimes, left power on, running battery down...Suspected a connection issue from transmission side so current was not actuating this parking pawl solenoid...
Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator If the vehicle is equipped with a floor mounted console gear shift, it has a ignition lock cylinder control actuator system in the steering column. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator's purpose is to prevent the ignition key from being turned to the OFF position when the transmission is in gear and the vehicle may still be moving. The column ignition lock system consists of a ignition lock cylinder control actuator , and a park position switch that is located in the A/T shift lock control switch. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator contains a pin that is spring loaded out to mechanically prevent the ignition key cylinder from being turned to the lock position when the vehicle transmission is not in the Park position. If vehicle power is lost, and/or the transmission is not in the Park position the operator will not be able to turn the ignition key to the lock position and will not be able to remove the ignition key from the column.
Please help I have been posting my problem so far nothing has helped. Please if someone can help please post. My 2003 azteck has been in three different shops one was a dealership. 2 fuel pumps, a computer, catalytic converter, all new plugs been tuned up, 02 sensors, checked the wires under the driver seat, nothing shows up on computer, one day drives fine next day cant get it to go it pops, backfires sounds like it may be gounding out or something. No one can figure this out so far.
Has anyone checked the coils and ignition module yet? Does the service engine soon come on and if so what code does it set? Sounds like the shops you've been using are just guessing at it!
I've just topped 196,000 on my 2003 Aztek but I'm not sure it can hold out much longer! Needs $350 worth of brake work but not sure I want to sink anything more into it...
I would think so also. $350 is only a month or 2 of car payments, if it goes another 4 months without anything major breaking one would be ahead of the game.
hi-I'm a new aztek-ie. I love my big yellow Az-truck. I may have paid too much for it but I have a 30 day guarantee...which is up on Monday. My question is, sometimes it has a whine when the rpms are at about 2.25 to 2.5. Sometimes it quits shortly after it starts, sometimes it takes longer. Sometimes it happens going up a hill and the car gets sluggish, other times it does not effect performance. Sometimes it is sluggish going up hills and bucks a bit. Other times it climbs right up. I live at the top of a hill, so I am concerned that this could get worse. I bought it about an hour away in an area with no hills, so I don't know how to reproduce the problem when I take it in on Monday....is it anything to worry about? Is there an easy fix? Once the warranty is up my husband can fix it, but if I can get it covered while under warranty thats one less thing he would have to fix. It is a 2001 (a very popular subject on this message board) AWD with 112k miles.
hi, i am a new (2001) Aztek owner. Does anyone know anything about the engine whine at about 2.25 rpms? Only intermittant, sometimes effects performance. Sometimes chugs on hills. Once both at the same time and check engine light came on flashing. pulled over and it went off, finished uphill from a stop without whine and chugging. Warranty is up on Monday, is it something I can tell them to look at/for? Awesome awesome truck...I love it. OH, it is AWD. Also, will a K&N air filter help with gas mileage? Am getting about 19, but i live "In the hills" so maybe it is not too bad. Previously had a subaru outback sport which did not get great mileage, but notice some folks are getting 24ish with the Aztek AWD. Maybe ethonal is reducing mileage.
Hi!! I am a newbie here- so take pity on me. I have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek Front Wheel Drive Car. I love this car! All of a sudden- I am having some problems and I am out of warranty so I will be having my brother in law do the repairs for me (he has car repair knowledge). A couple months back, I went to leave my house and the shifter would not shift out of park. He tried rocking the car and a slew of other things and the only thing that worked was using the bypass located under the cupholder in the console. Every once in a while it will still do this and I will have to engage the bypass. I noticed that day that when i was pushing the black button on the shifter in to try to move it from park- there was a clicking noise under the steering wheel. I didn't think much of it until today reading these posts. A week ago I pulled into the parking lot at work and went to turn off my car and I could kill the engine but the key would not make the final turn to allow the key to be removed. I now have to poke the bypass under the steering wheel with a contraption that I "MacGuyver'ed Up" It works every time to get the keys out, but it is extremely annoying to have to do this time and time again.
I think the problem is the BTSI. When I try to find one I find something called the Actuator. Is this the part that I need?
I only have 78K miles on this car but things seem to be going wrong left and right now. I don't know if I should keep it or trade it in. Is this part pretty straight forward to replace or not so much?
hi, i have a 2001 aztek...cruise control does not work, someone mentioned the fuse?? do you know what fuse it is? my manual does not show a fuse for cruise control
both lighters stopped working. I guess I blew a fuse. Is it under the hood box or under the console. If its under the console how do you get to it. I took the little door off but do not see a fuse box.
I've been working on cars since the late 70's(showing my age) and found that I had a broken wire in the wiring harness by the shifter at the bottom of the stick. You remove the cover over the stick by taking out the screw under the rear cup insert. You have to put the shifter into drive to make it easier. After removing the cover look toward the front of the stick at the bottom for a plug(white). Take a small blade screwdriver to push down on the tab and unplug the connector. I rerouted the wires so I could get to the plug end. Unwrap the covering and look for a broken or damaged wires. To remove the pins you need a sewing needle to insert by the pins to bend the tabs back to pull pins out. I soldered and put heat shrink on the wires. This solved my problem. Feel free to e-mail me with any other questions.
Hey GIZMO17... Great work and posting on this issue. I was unable to get too deep into this problem, working in a church parking lot, 100 miles from home, and on a friend's Azturd. I think most all of us were under the impression that there was a wiring issue around the shifter, that wasn't allowing the parking pawl to be retracted.
So I had to disable the parking pawl so the key could be removed everytime and allow the battery to not go dead..
I think the group will be most appreciative of your work and your description of what you found. THANKS! ....duane
I've taken off the air cleaner several times when changing the air filter. I could only get 3 bolts from the heat shield before I gave up and put it all back together. I even tried reaching up from under the car but I couldn't get that 4th bolt. Is the secret in removing the throttle body? I didn't try that.
We have a 2001 Azteck which we recently took in because of awd disable and antilock lights that were on. They replaced the sensor. That was 4 weeks ago. It is now happening again. I've read the discussion threads but thought I'd throw this out anyway. I did notice a burning type smell when I pulled the car into the garage. could something being heating up and burning something out with regards to this issue. I assume just replacing the sensor wasn't the correct fix. The problem that is causing the sensor to act up seems to be the issue. Any other options outside of what I read on the discussion threads; wires etc. Thx, Steve
How did you replace the wiring. Did you do it or have the dealer do it? How difficult was it. 1 year later I still have the problem but it is very intermittent. I unwrapped part of the wire to look for a crack but found nothing. Thanks Mike
My 2001 aztek has completely locked down with the spare key in the ignition and I need to know if anyone can help me figure out how to get the key out and reset the car so I can drive it. And also if anyone knows why it is doing this, I just bought the car used a month ago and no nothing about it
Hi Krisp 7763. It sounds like I am having the same problem as you did. Can you tell me where the bypass is under the steering wheel and what you did to use it? Personally me if you have the opportunity to trade it in I would. We have had nothing but problem after problem with ours. It's been something new every few weeks I swear. I used to love this car but now I really dislike it. Anyway thank you in advance. I'm hoping this isgoing to be the answer to get my car started.
I am really tired of mechanics charging me to look at my aztek, i have had it to different shops and dealers to check on the awd disabled light. they all tell me different and them charge me more money. one told me it was wiring under the carpet that got wet. but how the hell does he know when he didnt even look under there? so has anyone else had a problem with the awd diabled light staying on? if so, what did you have done to actually fix it for good? thank you
My 2002 aztek only has 97000 miles and i have had several problems with it. one thing i have noticed lately is, that it stays on C (cold), and the heater is not getting very hot. so would that be a thermostat problem? or something else? it seems to me that most mechanics " fix" something every time your vehicle is serviced but never get the actual problem.
i have the same problem with my 2002 aztek, did you find an answer? i looked up recalls and other discussions online and i read about the differential fluid getting hot and making the awd light come on, but it said it would go off???????? i just dont know...
No way I know of , and its a rather laborious task to get to it from what I understand. No check engine light on (it should show as a P0128 if it is)? Its also possible the heater core is somewhat clogged and not allowing proper flow.
Okay folks. I was the one who had to rock my car back and forth to get it to start. After NO parts charge and 400 in labor, they figured it out.
There is a wire in the ignition harness somewhere that is set wrong/crimped. When the car would get hot, it would create a short. Hence, rocking it dislodged the wire long enough to start it.
Thank you a thousand times.... gizmo17. Your description is great and has helped so many of us. My husband was able to remove cover and repair our vehicle and now I'm on my way again:)
I feel like I almost have the same problem. Since day one this car has been a nightmare.. It started off with the cluster panel being crazy.. The fuel gauge is never right.. the rpms say im doing 10000 rpms.. now the speedometer is not working right.. then it started with the key getting stuck in the ignition... and now the tailgate in the back won't open.. oh and one other thing the abs light is on and doesn't wanna turn off.. oh and another thing... I just spent 300 dollars to have the thermostat changed.. anyone wanna buy this car off of me I hate this car...
So I purhased my 2001 Aztek around four months ago. While I feel in love with the car at first, I'm really starting to despise it now . First off the driver side window has a mind of it's own. It's a loud really annoying noise in the background, it sounds like really bad static of some sort. I recently got a new key made. Now everytime I drive EVERYTHING gets crazy! The security light comes on, the dash lights,radio and head lights go off. But the car doesn't cut off. After about 10 seconds everything comes back on. Only to go crazy AGAIN after about 5 mins. Did I mention the fuel gauge works when it wants. I took it back to the used dealership I got it from. But they seems just as confused (if not more) then I was. Try explaining the problems your having with your vehicle with someone who doesn't speak english. :confuse: The car didn't even come with a manual! Can anyone help. I have been searching the web all day trying to see if there is anything I could do manually. Also if I happen to run out of gas I have to get a jump and gas. Everytime I purhased a new battery but I not sure if it fixed the problem. :sick:
Nice mess you have there. The usual suspect for fuel gauge problems is sending unit in tank, hoever with this vehicle you might have to wonder about the c-305 connector. Google 'GM C-305 connector' to find out more about that. For the disco lights on dash it may potentially be an issue with BCM ( Body Control Module). You could try a sort of reset for that by removing fuse #28 (I think hats the one) from underhood fuse box for about 30 seconds, then reseting it. Also possible if you have a sunroof, it may be leaking and causing water to get down to electrical stuff in dash causing troubles ( I have experianced that one and drying stuff out corrected problem).
Hello i recently bought a 2002 aztek and I was having issues when I would stop and then go it felt like a jerking so my boyfriend listened when it happened and said it sounded like the transmission.. we checked the fluid and it was bare so we put 3 quarts in within 2 days and it is gone.. It is leaking under the car and the coolant overflow has a lot of pressure built up.. Is there any suggestions to what could possibly be going on please..
This could be bad if it was run for a while with low or almost no tranny fluid in it. If you have any kind of warranty in place on it I would enusure it has fluid and take it back to them for repair. If not I would try and see where the leak is (pan or line). You could try getting it (the leak) fixed at a independant shop and see if there is any further issues, if it still has trouble tranny may need work. Good luck
This happened once before and we went through a series of steps and it came out of park. We've tried all the common sense tricks. HELP! We tried rocking it - no good. The steering wheel turns and it starts. The button will just not go in. When we try to there is a noise on the left hand side of the steering column, but it's not engaging. Can anyone help us??
That could be quite annoying First (because you didn't mention it), I believe there is an override that will allow you to get it out of park. I think in the front cupholder there is a little plastic piece that can be removed and small screwdriver or pen can be inserted to push a switch or something and allow shift lever to be moved.
As to the problem itself there is a little gizmo called the Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock that works in conjuntion with thr brake pedal, shifter, and some sort of thing in column near the ignition. Because you are hearing a noise in the column I would bet its that little electronic thing that is the problem. Someone here at this forum circumvented this safety item by forcing this thing to be on all the time, but replacement might be a better thing to do. Good luck
A friend of mine has a 2001 Aztec. Recently the passenger-side power window will not go up or down, but you can hear the power window motor whirring and the slide mechanism moving when you press the power window switch. Most likely the clips that hold the window into the slide mechanism need replacement.
To get at the power window mechanism, I need to remove the door panel. There are 3 torx screws and a few clips, which I was able to remove. However when I try to remove the front door panel, it gets caught on the front door handle. There must be something I'm missing. I would appreciate some advice.
My Aztek has always run a little warmer than normal, but last week I pulled out of my neighborhood and onto the highway and within 2 miles (at about 70 mph) the temp gauge had gone from cold to red. I pulled over immediately and shut the engine off (left in accessory position to run the fan- which was on), let it cool down for about 5 minutes (to below the upper white dot), then continued my 15 minute highway commute- it never got hot again, it actually ran cooler than usual the rest of the trip. Took it on a several stop in town drive about 4 hours later and never got too hot (even during a 15 minute drive thru idle), drove it back home all highway 4 hours later, never more than 3/4 up the gauge. Sat over night, did the exact same thing the next day, overheating only after accelerating to highway speeds on the first trip of the day.
Yesterday I drove around town before doing a highway trip and it got hot several times (seemingly upon acceleration again), but never overheated. Drove around all day (80+ miles) on and off highway and never overheated.
The heater does not blow hot when the car is overheating, but will once it cools off. Car overheats just as quickly regardless of what position the fan or heater is in. Car will not overheat if left idling in driveway before getting on the highway, still waits until highway speeds are attained.
I have had a 2003 Pontiac Aztec since it was new. The problems were 1. manifold had to be rewelded because the engine failed a compression test, 2. transmission had to be rebuilt because coolant got in it, 3. radiator had to be replaced because transmission fluid got into the coolant. Apparently from what I find on the web these three items were problems caused by something called Dex-Cool coolant although I don't remember having anything orange in the car's cooling system. My sin of omission was that I wouldn't let my husband service the car - it always went back to the dealership. Self-service might have alerted us to the coolant and transmission earlier. The transmission issue was not covered by the outside extended warranty because the insurance company (who also are withholding information) would not pay the claim, and the radiator issue came after and was not covered for certain by the age of the car. To my untrained eye, problems 2 and 3 were caused by the same parts failure and posts on the web claimed the manifold issue stemmed from the same cause. My husband originally felt this car could probably go 250,000 miles with the GM engine, so we considered it a long range investment. I now take my orphaned vehicle to be serviced to a very nice Chevy dealer but GM has not been forthcoming about the mechanical history of these cars, even to the original owners. Only once did I receive a recall notice but it was inconsequential and not about these issues. I love the car otherwise, but every time a warning light comes on I freak out and go driving the Chevy dealership crazy. And yet it is a wonderful, convenient car to drive and I don't want to be forced to give up the extra 130,000 miles I feel I should get out of it.
My father was found dead under bizarre circumstances in his Pontiac Aztec. The window had to be broken to get his body out. The car was in a busy traffic lane. It would not start. It was locked. The key was in the ignition. It was not out of fuel. He was in the back seat. He had bruises on his shoulder and foot. His cane was broken. I assume trying to break the window to get out. The police found no evidence of foul play. My concern is the electrical system went into some sort of "lock down mode" and he suffocated in the car on a hot day. I don't want this to happen to anyone else. Can anyone help me find an answer as to how this could happen? I am searching for answers.
My 2003 Aztek has a problem that is very similar to what you have described. Basically, if the front passenger side door latch is open (or maybe a similar problem that mimics the passenger side door latch being open), then virtually all electricals in the car appear to go into a lock-down mode ... so the car won't start, and the power door locks and virtually anything else electrical stops working. In this case, if you do not have manual door locks or somehow forget about them in the excitement, then the only way out appears to break the windows.
What I have described is an electrical/control problem with the Aztek ... and I believe that it can be fixed by replacing the main control board (BCM or Body Control Module).
Comments
Under the bottom half of the plastic housing behind the steering wheel, toward the right side, is a black pin that clears the pin inside that locks the lock mech from turning.. It is a bear to remove the housing, without the steering wheel being removed (Yes, that is part of the procedure to get at this area)..but I managed to remove the top and bottom of this housing...One has to remove the key switch first to clear the plastic housing.. and in order to do that, one has to turn the key to the "On" position, which is not possible with the condition you have right now..
My recommendation to you is to cut the plastic apart so you can remove the top half of the housing... You can find another housing at a junk yard later to replace it.. I glued that slide upwards so the solenoid pin will always be out...and placed a block of hard foam below the in that you push as a back up method..and then put it all back together.. Worked fine until it got creamed!..
They do not make a printed manual for the Aztec, so had to go online.Online manual was one bought for $20 at AutoZone.. ALLDATA diy.com, I believe.. Was worthless for any schematics on electricals.. I did get a decent diagram of the pin and all from it.... If I can locate the diagram again, I can send via email.. My email address is dak507@plateautel.net
Your problem is some different as you can turn your steering wheel...it should be locked if key is locked... I don't know exactly what you have, but willing to help, if I can...duane
Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator
If the vehicle is equipped with a floor mounted console gear shift, it has a ignition lock cylinder control actuator system in the steering column. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator's purpose is to prevent the ignition key from being turned to the OFF position when the transmission is in gear and the vehicle may still be moving. The column ignition lock system consists of a ignition lock cylinder control actuator , and a park position switch that is located in the A/T shift lock control switch. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator contains a pin that is spring loaded out to mechanically prevent the ignition key cylinder from being turned to the lock position when the vehicle transmission is not in the Park position. If vehicle power is lost, and/or the transmission is not in the Park position the operator will not be able to turn the ignition key to the lock position and will not be able to remove the ignition key from the column.
That's still a lot cheaper than monthly car payments out as far as the eye can see.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I think the problem is the BTSI. When I try to find one I find something called the Actuator. Is this the part that I need?
I only have 78K miles on this car but things seem to be going wrong left and right now. I don't know if I should keep it or trade it in. Is this part pretty straight forward to replace or not so much?
Mike
So I had to disable the parking pawl so the key could be removed everytime and allow the battery to not go dead..
I think the group will be most appreciative of your work and your description of what you found. THANKS!
Thx, Steve
How did you replace the wiring. Did you do it or have the dealer do it? How difficult was it. 1 year later I still have the problem but it is very intermittent. I unwrapped part of the wire to look for a crack but found nothing.
Thanks
Mike
There is a wire in the ignition harness somewhere that is set wrong/crimped. When the car would get hot, it would create a short. Hence, rocking it dislodged the wire long enough to start it.
NO problems at ALL now!
For the disco lights on dash it may potentially be an issue with BCM ( Body Control Module). You could try a sort of reset for that by removing fuse #28 (I think hats the one) from underhood fuse box for about 30 seconds, then reseting it. Also possible if you have a sunroof, it may be leaking and causing water to get down to electrical stuff in dash causing troubles ( I have experianced that one and drying stuff out corrected problem).
First (because you didn't mention it), I believe there is an override that will allow you to get it out of park. I think in the front cupholder there is a little plastic piece that can be removed and small screwdriver or pen can be inserted to push a switch or something and allow shift lever to be moved.
As to the problem itself there is a little gizmo called the Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock that works in conjuntion with thr brake pedal, shifter, and some sort of thing in column near the ignition. Because you are hearing a noise in the column I would bet its that little electronic thing that is the problem. Someone here at this forum circumvented this safety item by forcing this thing to be on all the time, but replacement might be a better thing to do. Good luck
To get at the power window mechanism, I need to remove the door panel. There are 3 torx screws and a few clips, which I was able to remove. However when I try to remove the front door panel, it gets caught on the front door handle. There must be something I'm missing.
I would appreciate some advice.
Yesterday I drove around town before doing a highway trip and it got hot several times (seemingly upon acceleration again), but never overheated. Drove around all day (80+ miles) on and off highway and never overheated.
The heater does not blow hot when the car is overheating, but will once it cools off. Car overheats just as quickly regardless of what position the fan or heater is in. Car will not overheat if left idling in driveway before getting on the highway, still waits until highway speeds are attained.
Coolant level is good, and fluid is clean.
Any ideas?
Sorry to hear about your father.
My 2003 Aztek has a problem that is very similar to what you have described. Basically, if the front passenger side door latch is open (or maybe a similar problem that mimics the passenger side door latch being open), then virtually all electricals in the car appear to go into a lock-down mode ... so the car won't start, and the power door locks and virtually anything else electrical stops working. In this case, if you do not have manual door locks or somehow forget about them in the excitement, then the only way out appears to break the windows.
What I have described is an electrical/control problem with the Aztek ... and I believe that it can be fixed by replacing the main control board (BCM or Body Control Module).
Regards,
Bubba_Man