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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)
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Sounds like the Forester is getting the exact same engine as the US WRX. Where'd the 2.5T go?
As I sat there in dread looking at the damage to my prized, three month-old car, I remembered reading on this board about other people's experiences with the Forester's bumpers fixing themselves as they rebounded back to their original shape. Well, just as I thought that, "pop!" the bumper fixed itself!
Now all I have to do is get the bumper repainted. The bumper was soft enough that it did not take any paint off of my brother's car, it only dented it. So he can get that fixed relatively inexpensively at Dent Wizards.
Subaru definitely deserves the Insurance Institute's top rating for bumpers. I am very pleased.
Has anyone had to have their Forester bumper repainted? Does anyone have a feel what I reasonable price should be?
Thanks,
Elliot
Bob
I wonder if the engine will be tuned any differently. The link above implies the engine makes the same 227hp peak.
Ken
We've owned Honda vehicles for the past 10 years until this past August when I decided to purchase an '03 (Forester) X 5spd. Used to the smoothness of Honda engines/drivetrains (catastrophic failures/assembly issues aside), I also seemed to hear a "whizzing-whirring" noise of sorts coming from the vehicle and was of course concerned - though not concerned about it enough to take it in.
Three months and 7500 miles later no problems. I have nothing to support the next comment, but I think it has more to do with the AWD system. Frankly, I don't hear it anymore, so as far as I know the noise may have been break-in related or I'm just used to it. And considering that I've read another post similar to yours and my own experiences, I believe it to be normal.
The other thing is I'd check the ATF level now, even before doing the figure 8.
Love those bumper stories. IIHS does rank the Forester as the least-costly-to-repair among Small SUVs:
http://www.highwaysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/low_speed_smsuv.htm
Oh, by the way, 2nd least costly? The previous generation Forester! LOL
Also, not I did not say "cheapest", because it earned a Best Pick in IIHS safety ratings. Each test result by itself is a good accomplishment, but combining both is truly impressive.
Hmm, Spudster would be a roadster. Maybe if you had the Premium we could call it that! ;-)
Lowell: cool and thanks for updating us. Glad to hear it.
144 miles, crooked shifter, strange noises? I'd avoid it like the plague. It was probably in an accident of some sort, or abused in some way, to say the least.
-juice
Seems to take some time to adjust to the sense of a new car, particularly coming from a manual VW. Different road feel and different engine sounds.
I thank you both for your input. It is most appreciated, particularly the advice on the breaking process. They surely don't mention that at the "store", do they? And couldn't find it in the manual.
Also very glad to hear that Pnassmac is doing fine at 7500 after initial whizzing sounds.
I may be a tad anxious being as my prior vehicle developed problems at early mileage. Am hoping not to go down that road again!
Loved the VW, problem ridden though it was and at the same time couldn't wait to get a more "reliable" car. Hope the Forester will be that. And I must say, am so very pleased with it. Couldn't believe what I was able to get into it today, where I went easily, and the visibility and it has real workable sun visors! Plus a smoother ride than I am used to. Feel like I have gone from a cocoon to a sunroom. Nice.
Brooks
Do mostly country and town driving, and not much freeway (we only have about 10 miles of it around here and it is 20 or more miles away). Will that give the RPM variety it needs for a good breaking in?
Interesting that it the TCU learns your habits, as you say. As you can gather I am not engine savvy.
Brooks
For the previous generation of Forester Turbo, it used a different tune to the WRX. It was very, very popular here in Australia.
The rumour here continues to be that a 2.5l Turbo will be sold.
Cheers
Graham
For one, the "new car smell" stinks. Let the outgassing and burning off of the undercoating pass, and it'll go away.
2nd, gas mileage improves with age. Most people get 2mpg better at 10k miles than they did when new.
3rd, the sounds are very different, you'll hear a boxer growl. I can hear a Subie coming, they are so unique.
Patti gave us the hint about the figure 8. She works for SoA and has a lot of buddies that are the top Subaru regional mechanics, so I trust her. Not to mention it has worked for someone here at Edmunds.
Avoid cruise control during break-in. Being in town/country will actually be better for break in because engine rpm varies more.
Stick with us, we share good information and tips, and have the right contacts at SoA should any problems aries.
I hope Graham is right!
-juice
In any event, your mixed driving should be fine for the break-in process. The basic idea is that you want your engine to go through a range of rpms in it's early stages. Don't worry and enjoy.
One tip -- with any vehicle, you should be easy on it when first starting it, especially on a cold morning. My recommendation is to let it idle for at least a minute before driving off. Make sure you drive very gently for the next few miles. A good deal of engine wear occurs when the engine is cold and your engine oil isn't flowing freely yet.
Lastly, another popular practice is to change your engine oil and filter at the 1000 mile mark. Since your engine is going through the most break-in during this time, some folks (including myself) like to minimize the risk of having contaminants in the oil.
Ken
When we bought my wife's Legacy, the salesman gave us a complete tour of all the features, told us about the break in, even popped the hood and showed her all the fluids to check (marked in yellow). I was very impressed by their PDI, and they delivered a zero defect car. Even the tires pressures were correct.
I will be very, very likely to buy my next car from him.
I agree about taking it easy at first - it takes about 7 seconds for oil pressure to build. You should avoid putting any strain at all on the engine for at least those few seconds.
-juice
As far as the Subaru Australia folk know, the Turbo should be released sometime in 2004. It was such a big part of Forester sales that absence from the new line up had to be clearly explained and time frame given for next introduction. Given how big the Australian market is for Subaru (third biggest in the world - surprising given we have only 19m people in a space about the same as the 48 states) its clear that something different has to be done to the engine to make it work right. If they are selling 2.0l turbos elsewhere in the world, there has to be a really good reason why it is not coming here.
Cheers
Graham
-juice
-Frank P.
That's a great dealer -- even the correct tire pressures!
Yeah, I know some folks at work who literaly crank the engine and then drive off giving zero time for any oil pressure to build. Makes me cringe every time.
Ken
So there you have it - even a cosmetic scratch on a painted Forester bumper will set you back $500+ dollars if you want it fixed right. If I had a Forester L or X, I would simply have an almost undetectably scuffed bumper. Sure gives some credibility to those that argue that the unpainted bumper has much more practicality, given the rugged nature of the Forester. I guess that's the price I pay for a 6 disc changer, sunroof, heated seats......
Elliot
Bumper feedback:
I had the same sort of estimate on my bumper when I got it chipped after only 30 days of ownership (friggin' yellow post!). I dented the rear right quarter panel a little during the same incident, and to repair/repaint both, I was looking at about $850. $500 if I didn't do the bumper. I was surprised as hell about the bumper. By the way, I'm the fella who had the self-repairing bumper, although in my incident, the bumper took off more paint on the old Acura Legend than it had removed from itself.
MPG in a sluggish Atlanta commute:
Folks -- should I be concerned that I'm only getting about 21MPG in a sluggish 15 mile commute in Atlanta traffic? I do between 60mph and 70mph on the way to and from work, with some 10-20 minutes of bumper-to-bumper traffic once I get off the interstate onto surface streets. I only get about 300 miles (21mpg or so) per tank. The most I've ever gotten on a trip was about 375 miles (25mpg or so). Am I just driving the car too hard or what? Feedback is welcome and appreciated. I usually stick to speed limits or 5mph above in town, by the way.
Thanks,
burnsmr4
-Frank P.
What brand, color, shade of window tinting did you apply in your Forester? Also, was it professionally installed, which windows did you cover and (if you don't mind me asking) how much did you pay?
Any concerns about covering the defrost "wires" stuck to the back window?
The 10-20 minutes of bumper-to-bumper traffic mixed with the 60-70mph driving will probably give you the equivalent of the city MPG rating. I get 22-23MPG around town with my 98 Forester. On the highway, I've gotten 25/26. No bumper-to-bumper traffic, though.
jtm4
I was hit from behind, and needed a new bumper. $125 unpainted, that's it. 25% of the cost of yours. The front has some dings that would have needed repainting, and at least one of the doors, too.
21/25 mpg is not bad. Consumer Report's Expedition averaged 12. Their Tahoe got 13. You can't always match the EPA estimates.
-juice
-juice
a. Type of tint (metallic or dyed)
b. Degree of tint (5%, 35%, 50% 90%)
c. Choosing a professional installer (only way to go IMO)
In my case I went with an installer recommended by the dealer, chose a charcoal metallic tint, tinted all but the windshield and kept the front windows lighter. I don't recall exactly what I paid but it was somewhere around $250. And no, the tint hasn't interfered with the defroster (nor the window mounted radio antenna for that matter).
-Frank P.
Window Tinting
Steve, Host
'ppreciate the feedback.
burnrsmr4
-juice
It's been awhile since I checked out the Subaru Forester board and I can't believe I read over 1000 messages.
I have a 2000 Forester and I'm planning to do the 60k service by myself. With the help of Juice and other people I did the 30k service.
Does anyone have a recommendation on the type of spark plugs I should use? I'm thinking about NGK Platinum Plugs.
I appreciate any input about the plugs and other advice about my 60k service.
Thanks,
Raymond
pnassmac
I am new to this message board...
Can someone suggest me how often various fluids (ATF, Steering, Brake, Coolant...) must be changed? I have 2002 Forester (4EAT) with 17K miles. After reading messages on this board, I am tempted to change oil on my own. Is it too difficult? If not, can someone list all the tools required for an oil change?
Thanks
I am sure the other fine members will be more than happy to share their knowledge with you.
tidester, host
silver_subie -- Your owner's manual should have a maintenance schedule that covers fluids. Also, you can find the same info on Subaru's website. As for oil changes, yes, it is easy compared to some vehicles. You really don't need any special tools -- just some wrenches and/or ratchet. I don't have the sizes handy. There's also enough clearance under your Forester so you won't need to use jackstands or a ramp.
Ken
I was glad you mentioned the "new car smell". It wasn't like any I had ever smelled. When I first got in it I asked the dealer what is that smell, smells like old fish wrappers. He mumbled something about the plastic wrappings which he had just taken off. After a week, it is a little better. I drive with the windows down regardless of the temperature. At the car wash they have a new car smell scent. Don't like scented cars to begin with, but that would be the last one I would chose. Am thinking of dabbing some eucalyptus oil on a kleenex and sticking it in one of the cup holders for the time. Glad to hear it will eventually go away.
And it does take some getting used to. The different sounds, and also the different feel as it changes gears. Haven't had the whizzing sound again. Have been letting it warm up a little first. It is odd going down hill, it seems to accelerate, I brake a bit, and it slows down, then accelerates. Sure different from driving a manual!
I do love the car, must say.
And thanks to the person who mentioned the break in info in the manual. I did miss it.
One question, the mechanic at the gas station, said his advice was to use a higher octane gas every 4 to 5 fill ups. I never did it for the VW, because shortly I traded it in. What is that about and what is your opinion on that?
Brooks
It is like complete tuneups. Once they were necessary, but now, the only thing you can do is change plugs. But Subaru still mentions that you need them in its publications. I guess the dealer service departments are hurting because Subarus are too reliable.
Another reason NOT to fill up with premium from time to time is that the computer in your Subie sets timing to the fuel you're using. When you alter the octane in your tank this way, the computer adjusts to the new octane mix. When you start using regular again, it adjusts again. During the transitions up and down, you'll burn rich or run a little rough. Best practice is to pick one grade, stick with it, and let the computer take care of you.
-mike
-Frank P.
* complete wash and wax
* rotate tires, wax wheels
* bleed/clean brakes, check pads
* lube sway bars and suspension bushings
* oil and filter
* fuel filter
* air filters
* spark plugs and plug wires
* tranny gear oil or ATF
* diffy oil
* Techron in the gas tank (instead of 93 octane)
* coolant flush and refill
* wiper blades
* top off PS fluid
Some "maybes":
* alignment (check tires)
* timing belt and accessory belts (or at 90k)
* hoses (inspect closely, depends on age)
* throttle body service
An oil change is a good place to start for a Newbie. I think it's a 17mm drain plug. Get a ratchet set, an oil filter wrench, and a small flat screw driver (to remove the engine cover). Or tin snips to cut a hole in the cover for easy access. 5 quarts of oil, a new Purolator filter and a 17mm crush washer for the drain plug. Ramps make it easier but are not necessary.
-juice
-mike
If the dealer did it right, you should be able to remove the oil filter with your hand. Likewise, tightening by hand is a good way to prevent over-tightening the oil filter.
Ken
-Frank P.
-mike
-mike
-Frank P.
But yeah, only hand tighten.
Actually, Frank, the fuel pickup is at the front of the tank, not the bottom. There's a 2nd fuel filter under your back seat, too.
-juice