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I had to slam on the breaks 'cause of an idiot in a van3 years ago. All of a sudden my 05 was running rough and backfiring. Got warning notice on dash. OnStar said ok to drive but to take right to dealer. Dealear did a diag and there was a problem with the device that adjusts the valve timing. The computer changes valve timing on the fly I think. They changed it and my gas milage went UP!! I was getting 14/19. Now, and this is NO BULL.... I'm getting 17 - 18 in town and 24 to 25 on the open road. Drove to Fla from NJ and back twice. Even running at 75 mph I was seeing 23 mph. I"m happy - Oh, it's the I-5 engine.
Well thanks to HopeGMC it's working again. I took it apart and looked at everything and things looked OK so I tapped the relay and put everything back togather and wow it worked. A GMC/ Chevy repair......
My hats off to HopeGMC thanks alot. What is the BCM and TSB. Just for reference I might need later. Thanks again... ZIPY
Hope this helps. This was a year ago for me. the relay is like a small aluminum block on the circuit board. Also spray the connectors when putting back togather. Go back and read this on page 15-16-17.
Thanks Again!
Thanks for the input, but this didn't work for me either. I left it disconnected overnight and reconnected it in the morning. No change. No driver side window or lock. The passenger side window will still operate from the driver side, but nothing else. Other thoughts?
Battery needs replaced. I just went through the same exact thing. New battery, New day to drive!!
You have power to the door and the winder because it works from the driver side. Using the passenger button doesn't work, therefore... the passenger side is not completing the circuit. Rip it open and check the wires. Replace the button even if you can make a test circuit, it might not be enough to move the winder. Careful cos the winder pulls some juice
Colorado's seem to have been undersized in the loom causing melted wires and shorts all over, dead blowers, winders, blownout stereo lights, ugly wife... you name it.
The differential for this diagnosis is:
1. The windows are not on the same circuit as the locks.
2. The driver's side window circuit is not completing. First, place an axe in the footwell near the pedals in full view of the driver's door. Now check the window fuses, you may have one for each side. Carefully remove the driver's door inside panel and wiggle the wires from the driver's side window button in both directions while operating the button. Look for melting, scorching, breaks, water damage, etc. The axe will act as a form of incentive for the vehicle to be helpful.
3. Your keyless entry doesn't sense the position of the locks (it would be German if it did that) but instead it simply knows that you pressed the "lock" button on the remote, so it armed the entry-sensor. Check the fuse for the power-locks and the signal wire from the remote-sensor to the lock-popper.
4. Why is it cheaper than Honda or Toyota? "Because it's a Chevy" :lemon:
5. To be fair, I've crashed my '05 Colorado twice and all it needed was realignment and a new front bumper I changed out myself.
It's a common problem with these Colorados and Canyons. The FOB and driver's window stops working and the battery goes dead. The dealer replaced my BCM (Body Control Module) for a few hundred that did nothing. They also "mentioned" there was a service bulletin on the fuse block which had scorch marks. They found out the battery was shot too. During their testing they stressed the blower resistor which fried the next day. All told, about $800 in repairs.
Since then (summer 2007) everything has worked fine, no more issues. The bottom line, this is what it looks like. There is some problem with the fuse block. I don't know if it is poorly designed, but my guess is it fries for some reason. Possibly too much of a load on the powerpoints, poor grounding ( read that earlier in these threads) or I've also read the alternator is too animic. I get the impression that the electrical system of the truck is not up to snuff and for whatever reason, the fuse block fries and takes the other stuff (BCM, battery etc) with it.
Replace the fuse block (which was covered by Chevy) and everything, at least on my truck has been ok. My rub is that it seems logical that the fuse block fried the other stuff, but Chevy wouldn't cover the other expenses. I will never buy another Chevy product even if, through Obama I'm now a "part owner" after their bankruptcy. Personally I would have let them burn. They obviously make crappy products and don't stand behind them. The dealer was pretty good about it, but it's interesting that Chevy still takes the line of "never seen this before" given all the activity in this thread.
Other issues to watch out for are the tail light sockets are poorly designed and over time need to have the prongs bend back to make contact. I have a fog light I have to rap on in order to get it to work. The cable for it is so short it's virtually impossible to turn it to get it out of the socket. I replaced it, but it has the same problem. The solution is I have to have the lights on, get out of the truck and rap on the light and it will work... for a while.
Also don't forget about the head needing to be replaced. If you don't know about this one, definitely do some searching on it. There is a problem in the 2004-06's where the valve seats weren't hardened enough and the cylinders go flat on compression. The entire head needs to be replaced. This one Chevy does cover to 100K miles, but expect about three weeks of down time. They usually have to pull the motor because the timing chain slips and they need to reset it. There is a tool to hold it, but it usually doesn't work. If it's not covered under the warrantee, it's about a $3500 fix.
I'll say after that one summer of hell with the truck, everything has been working pretty well. I have 120K miles on it, but I live in fear of when I'll have the "other stuff", the instrument panel, the lighting etc starts to fail on it.
My 05 Crew LS just went through the 100k and she's pulling strong, half the dash lights are out and I put her into a concrete retaining wall covered in snow at 40mph, just needed a new bumper. Hard to break and cheap to run :shades:
I had some rough engine issues that affected every system in the vehicle. I bought a $3 spray can of Gumout Throttle Body Cleaner and sprayed the plate. Fixed it immediately and she's running nice.
Always garaged now and should be less problems occur.
Comes Jan 8, 2010, battery just 5 days shy of one year old and...... the drivers side windows doesn't work (all others do), FOB won't lock doors but does blink lights and set the alarm.
- no battery check light, battery seems okay
-checked all fuse and relays, appear okay.
I just got on the internet and found this common problem others have had and I'm anxious to try the control module fix (seems like the most common thread solution) and look for the any bare wires or door / harness interferrences.
A.S. I did have another electrical issue and that was with the cruise control working erratically. Found out the dealer didn't really have any ideas except the $95 per hour diagnosis path and admitted if it is intermittent they probably would find it. I mentioned that they had a recal for an emergency / brake light issue in 2007 and they left these parts under on the floor (below the steering column). They ignored that.
So I crawled under and found they cut wire clamps off many wires to do their replacement work and left the cruise control wire next to a sharp edged bracket on the steering wheel.... yes it cut into the wire and was intermittently shorting out. Wrapped the wire, but foam between the wires and bracket and clamped them (the way a professional repair should be). All has been fine for over a year.
Bottom line the wiring and control don't seem to take much vibration, and or voltage variation before they start causing issue. Why isn't GM aware of this???
I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me at socialmedia@gm.com with more details? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I posted message #280, but never went to the dealer as I said I was going to because my nearest GM Dealer wouldn't provide me with a loner car that my GM Certified literature says they must because it is still under the warranty. I digress... Since the first incident I haven't had any trouble with the MPH gauge, but evertime I brake whichever turn signal I have on either goes completely away or blinks as if it is burnt out. It is never the same on either side it just depends on how the truck is feeling at that particular turn. Just like your problem the actual lights work, but it is the indication inside the cab that is wrong. I'll keep you posted if I hear anything and you do the same as well. Thanks and have a good one!
What can you suggest is happening? I'm getting frustrated, theres only 68,000 on the O.D. and I have an Ext. warranty.
Replaced all my blinker bulbs, which all popped within a month, wierd.
Replaced my O2 sensors. The rear one I bought was the wrong type but I thought it was a manufacturer variance until my engine light came on. I happened to be in the Dealer to pick up my new Monroe struts and I asked if they could read the code. "You mean Diagnose the problem sir?" "That would be $100" Nah! I went one block to Autozone where they lent me a code reader and a 60 year old lady "Diagnosed" my code just looking at it, no reference to any computer... "Your rear O2 sensor is bad." Thanks says I, got one? Nope. So I went back to the Dealer and bought one for $75. I buy all my fluids at Autozone so I don't feel too bad about using their Reader for free.
Further to my new struts, They cost me $100 each for Monroe Reflex, which are WAY better than the standard OEMs. The Dealer generously offered $400 to fit and align those puppies. Nah! I went to a local fixit who stupidly said "I don't fit other people's equipment." Ok dipstick, obviously you have too much business. I went to my local Les Schwab where I got talking to a very smart ex-Marine who got those things on and aligned in 45 minutes for $100. Score. The manager actually complained that he wasn't supposed to do that, until I pointed out that this is how you make loyal customers and my tires cost $700 per set... and they're almost due. Even in a recession, you have to force your money down some people's throats because of their "rules."
I installed a dashtop Sirius/XM thingy. Just power from a ciggy point and antenna to the roof. Nothing fancy since the Input Converter I bought to put in the back of the stereo DOESN'T WORK and they won't honor their 30 day warranty. Now, if I leave it plugged in at the ciggy point, it somehow convinces my aftermarket engine disabler to engage and my truck is disabled. Lights come on, engine says "click." After the 3rd time I was left stuck in a parking lot, I figured out the combination to unlock the engine instead of just pressing randomly until it started. You'd laugh if I told you the sequence but I don't want my truck stolen so never mind :P I still pull the power for the XM now when I park because it's annoying to have to unlock the engine.
I think I need to replace all the fluids next...
I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Have you taken the vehicle to a different dealer for a second opinion? Can you please email me your VIN and current mileage? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
VIN: 1GTD5136458100 Mileage 65,000
Thanx
Jerry
My email address is socialmedia@gm.com. Can you please email me your VIN, the one you have posted is missing a few numbers. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Now after several attemps to diagnois my reduced power mode, I find it is another faulty wire connector to the throttle position sensor! GM spends millions on advertising, but will lose a 30 year customer over a few hundered dollars...GO FIGURE THAT! How many people have had problems with intermittent electical problems because of faulty GM connectors?
A definite design flaw! I have been buying GMs for 30 years, and a retired GM dealer employee! NO HELP FROM GM though! I have simply asked GM customer service to provide me with a pigtail connector, which they should under recall anyway.
Problems with my Colorado:
Headlights fog up
Front tires wear prematurely
Roof leaks
Brakelight switch
idol problem (New GM Head)
Throttle Body replaced
Heater Blower Wires/connector burn/melt
Throttle position sensor- DEFECTIVE WIRE CONNECTOR
All of these things traced to manufacturing/design flaws!
Now after several attemps to diagnois my reduced power mode, I find it is another faulty wire connector to the throttle position sensor! GM spends millions on advertising, but will lose a 30 year customer over a few hundered dollars...GO FIGURE THAT! How many people have had problems with intermittent electical problems because of faulty GM connectors?
A definite design flaw! I have been buying GMs for 30 years, and a retired GM dealer employee! NO HELP FROM GM though! I have simply asked GM customer service to provide me with a pigtail connector, which they should under recall anyway.
Problems with my Colorado:
Headlights fog up
Front tires wear prematurely
Roof leaks
Brakelight switch
idol problem (New GM Head)
Throttle Body replaced
Heater Blower Wires/connector burn/melt
Throttle position sensor- DEFECTIVE WIRE CONNECTOR
All of these things traced to manufacturing/design flaws!