Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
It's not the AWD lock button. I tried that and no difference. I can't for the life of me figure out why such a feature would be implemented. Maybe it has something to do with the anti-skid... but disengaging that also has no effect. Placing it into netural is the only way to freewheel --- as one might do approaching an interstate exit or just coasting into a new lower speed zone.
THanks for the comments but still wondering about it.
Bill
Not discounting that there may be something wrong with the car, but a lower top gear, AWD hardware and an electronic transmission that downshifts or holds a lower gear when coasting downhill, probably all add up to a different driving experience than you are used to...
My wife's SUV (not a Santa Fe) has a 6-speed automatic, and it will hold at 35 mph all the way down a 1/2-mile long hill near our house... My son's '92 Acura would be doing 60 by the time you got to the bottom, if you didn't use the brakes. By the way, I hate her transmission...lol.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
So this is normal? Thanks for your reply.
Here's the FIX. Since Toyota had the runaway accelerator problems, Hyundai built in a circuit on the brake light switch that will defeat the accelerator,(since it a cabless system), same as cancelling cruise control. If the brakelight switch has not been adjusted properly, any slight, and I mean slight motion on the brake pedal, will cause the accelerator pedal to become inoperative. Try driving and accelerating, and while doing that, press the brake pedal slightly. The car will stop accelerating. You'll figure it out. My dealer took 4 visits along with my ranting, they finally discovered the problem. All it takes is an adjustment to your brakelight switch.
Thanks for your input.
Tried your suggestion with the brake and you are correct. The slightest pressure on the brake pedal will prevent the car from accelerating. So my next step is to show the dealer and see if he knows how to properly adjust the brakelight switch. I'm thinking that a red light forward of the dash coming on when pressing on the brake will help keep me off the brake pedal. Wonder what the effect is by adjusting the brakelight switch?
Hyundai, you got a problem and we all know it...please take care of it now. It's a nice car but, the transmission has got to be fixed. Thanks.
John.
ecotrklvr, "Hyundai Santa Fe Brake Problems" #58, 18 Feb 2011 6:31 pm
When a vehicle jumps forward in park when being started, and shifts so hard that it feels like you've been rear ended there is just no way I am going to accept excuses like those.
Hyundai Canada was downright rude on the phone, the dealership outright lied to me by telling me that the fellow who originally confirmed the problem did not work there anymore and they had to have another mechanic actually experience the problem before they could do anything. He still works there.
Our 2010 Santa Fe is now about to go back for its 3rd transmission, the dealer has diagnosed and ordered new one and we are awaiting arrival.
They have also done numerous other things like replace the radio head unit 5, yes, 5 times.
We had a 2007 Santa Fe and loved it, no problems whatsoever, we took it in for service and went for a drive in the 2010, really liked the 6 speed and the bluetooth, so we left the '07 there and took home the new one.
I just wish now that we had kept the '07.
The problem I have now is, my resale value is in the toilet, who wants something that has had this much work done to it?
No lemon laws here, camvap has no teeth. All the dealer has to say is that they addressed the problem to the best of their ability.
Good luck and I hope your problem is soon solved.
Tap
sorry replied to wrong post this was for dbgfan
I felt it odd that no one has discussed the required Drive Train maintaince requirements that protect our Transmissions.
Most AWD veichles require a fluid change somewhere around 5000 miles.
I don't know what Hyundai requires and I'm sure there is info in the Manual,
but I would like to know the requirments so that they can't cop out when my tranny needs replaced.
Once you get beyond 50,000 miles, all kind of stuff can happen, even in quality builds. You would think that something as basic as a transmission
would have been mastered long before a vehicle hits the Showroom.
I can't remember weather it was 4500 or 7500 miles.
( that was 10 years ago, and the memory ain't quite what it used to be)
My point was, other than checking the fluid level and getting the updates,
what does it take to keep the Tranny under Warranty ?
Anyone who expects computer updates to correct "mechanical slams, jerks, hesatations or racing" is experiencing wishful thinking .
I think that you will find the problems laying low for various periods of time only to recur once again.
Just make sure you have a "paper trail" of your problems and their solutions, so that when your tranny is ready to be replaced you can say "I told you so "
From what I understand, the trannys came in with low fluid levels, this caused the hard shifting, hard shifting was recorded in the learned memory/history ( I believe its called TCM). Technical service bulletin (TSB) was released October 2010 with a protocol, 1st top up fluid level, if that doesn't correct the problem clear or reset the learned memory, if that doesn't solve - new transmission (thanks for posting that they install remanufactured I would never thought to ask that), followed by new computer.
Seriously disappointed with my vehicle, and a weak customer service team which could have compensated for the problems I've experienced.
I've just recently had the TCM reset so we'll see what happens next, it's difficult to be optomistic. Any reason resetting the TCM does not appear on my invoice?
Lastly, anyone experience a funny noise from under the car from a cold start? Dealership says it's intermittent cannot duplicate but it happens everytime I start it up? They replaced a part of the exhaust system but it still happens, brand spanking new car and sounds like crap when it starts up.
...so disappointed
@ going to the competition, I'm right behind you, when it makes financial sense that is
I have a 2011 SF limited with 2000 miles. I also hear rattling everytime I start up cold. It's on my list for when I bring it in for my first oil change. I'll let you know what happens.
So far so good - no problems whatsoever after 4k miles. And I notice everything. No rattles, no noises. The transmission seems fine.
If anything the paint has a few minor blemishes in it and the gaps between the body panels / doors & hood while OK could be better and more even.
Someone above mentioned a Ford Escape. We looked at them too last summer and this one we were checking out had the hood out of line (lifted up near the wiper area) almost .25" vs the other side. It blew me away it was so obvious. I pointed it out to the sales guy and he was stunned and at a loss for words. But I hear they are improving.
Waited on hold for nearly 30 minutes with Hyundai roadside assistance. Tow truck showed up an hour later and took me and the car to the dealer. The service manager asked if I had my car serviced there before and I said no because I perform all of my own oil changes. He said there was a recall on my vehicle. I told him that I had not received any notification of a recall. He proceeded to tell me that since I change my own oil, I should call in every six months to see if there are any new service bulletins or active recalls. Really?????
Service department claims they never heard of anyone having a problem -
http://www.automd.com/tsb/hyundai_m/santa-fe_mm/2010_y/
hope this helps