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I have Honda CRV Ex 2010, its only 20 month (14.5 miles) under warranty period....and I noticed the noise and also maintenance indicator shows A1 6 (6 means change Rear Differential Fluid)
Questions -
- Will it (cost to change Rear Differential Fluid) cover in my warranty?
- Do we have any recommendation from honda when (how many miles) to change this?
I know that the front differential is contained in the transmission if it is an automatic. So changing the transmission fluid takes care of the front diff. Not sure about the manual though? I would assume that it would be separate in a manual since since the manual trans would use motor oil and I guess the diff would use either cvt fluid or that dual pump 2 fluid. Not sure though.
Honda isn't going to pay for routine maintenance nor should they.
If you simply change the rear diff fluid every 30,000 miles you shoildn't ever have a problem. We have two CRV's and one before those and they have been flawless.
I wold have to pull out my Owner's Manual but I think Honda says to do this every 60,000 miles. According to the guys in the shop they think 30,000 miles is better. I go with them. It isn't expensive to have this done.
If you don't have Honda do the work, MAKE VERY SURE they use the correct fluid!
According to my 2006 CR-V Owners Manual, the rear differential fluid should be changed at 90,000 miles or 5 years under normal conditions. Or 60,000 miles or every 4 years under severe conditions.
Can't imagine having that done every 15,000 miles. Also, there is no reason why any competent mechanic couldn't do this maintenance, so long as they use the correct fluid.
Car manufactures will stretch service intervals sometimes in order to keep their Cost of Ownership numbers down. The engineers constantly argue with the bean counters.
If a Honda Tech with many years of experience suggests changing the dual pump fluid every 30,000 miles then that's what I'll do.
I change my oil more often than the "book" says too and so does every mechanic I have ever known.
It doesn't take much skill to drain and refill a differential. Just pull the plug, wait for the fluid to drain. Remove the fill plug and refill it.
Good idea to replace the crush washers at the same time just like when doing an oil change.
Better change that engine oil every week too, just in case. I mean, why pay attention to the owner's manual? What do they know? I'm sure a service technician who makes money each time you have the car serviced has no ulterior motives.
Hi everyone. I guess I am in a right section of the forum.
It all started few days ago with my 4-week 2k miles old 2013 CR-V. I noticed a slight "glink" sound when stopping on a red light. At first, I thought it is AC but it was definitely not the AC: it was making it's regular compressor cycles and noises, apart from this new noise. I drove to the safe place, turned AC off and did some tests on a parking lot and it turned out quite easy to replicate. Here are my observations: 1) I hear this sound every time when I switch gear from P to R, or from N to either R/D. It is definitely something that wasn't there before. I do hear transmission switching gears (with regular noise coming from the hood) but this sound is smth supplemental, new, coming from the back of a car (I'd say it sounds like a tiny dog barking in a closed car that could be parked nearby ). 2) I hear this sound every time I start moving from a full stop, as well as applying brakes to take a car to a full stop. Even sometimes I can get a car clicking back and forth few times by slightly applying brakes when the car moving 5mph or so. 3) From inside a car it sounds like quite "glinck" sound, fairly annoying though. From outside it is a noticeable mechanical "click" sound coming somewhere from underneath the car, close to the back, I guess right where rear dual pump differential is located.
My assumption is that somehow AWD system misbehaves and kicks in every time a car put into either R/D from neutral or parking position, every time a car start moving (I did all the tests on a dry road, so it is not like front wheels are slipping and causing AWD to enable) and turns off when braking.
The car is under "bumper-to-bumper" Honda 1yr warranty so I am planning to show it to the dealer service department asap. I don't want to be unprepared to "we don't think anything is wrong with the car, so take care sir!"-like tricks from the dealer, so please, let me know if I am thinking in a right way and it is really the way I think it is. Has anyone else experienced that or saw similar issue mentioned elsewhere? If indeed it is coming from rear diff, what might be causing this? This should be covered under warranty, right? If it is not rear diff, what it could be then? If the dealer refuse to do free diagnostics/repair (don't know, never owned a new car) can I take it to any official Honda dealer or I am limited to the one I bought the car from?
Had the same "quacking" noise on my 2012 CRV at 4,000 miles....it turned out to be the electric motor on the differential....they replaced it and all is well....hope this helps.
@eagle9275 said:
Had the same "quacking" noise on my 2012 CRV at 4,000 miles....it turned out to be the electric motor on the differential....they replaced it and all is well....hope this helps.
I have the same thing happened when my 2013 CRV hit 5000 miles. I took it to the dealer, and they told me that Honda was aware of this problem but they have not come up with a fix yet. All I can do now is to wait to be contacted by Honda or the dealer when a fix is available. Cannot believe it's been two years already, and they still work on this issue without a solution. Very disappointed!
Had my rear differential replaced (2nd time!) and the quacking seems to have stopped. However, it did the same thing after my last replacement and the quack came back at around 6 months. Fingers crossed that Honda have rectified the problem this time. Your dealer should inform you that the "fix" is now available... hopefully.
This thread seems to have evolved from a 2007 (or so) CR-V with Differential Problems. Can I ask a question about a 2007 CR-V, front wheel drive? Does the FWD version that makes a noise when shifting to R and turning have a solution?
This thread seems to have evolved from a 2007 (or so) CR-V with Differential Problems. Can I ask a question about a 2007 CR-V, front wheel drive? Does the FWD version that makes a noise when shifting to R and turning have a solution?
It sure wouldn't have anything to do with a rear differential.
I'd guess front CV joints/axles. The transmission might be a separate problem.
My first post here. Just purchased a Honda CRV 2002 in mint condition with 102500 miles on it. Love it. It's 16 years old but drives and looks amazing. And one I could afford on my limited retirement budget.
But I've noticed the rear differential making this clunking grinding sound if I turn really sharp as mentioned by others here . So I'm gonna try changing it myself.
Has Anyway done this procedure themselves? I'm pretty mechanical, but will have to do in my driveway. Is it likewise true it needs to be changed 3 times to fix it? (I read someone stating that).. Hey thanks for any help.
Your rear differential shouldn't even be engaged while making simple turns. I'm wondering if the AWD control systems are the problem and putting you in full AWD when you shouldn't be?
Also you don't have enough information, from just a noise, to conclude that the differential is the problem.
I would see what a professional scan tool might reveal for trouble codes, and also check all the fluid levels.
Not sure what you mean about "changing" the differential. You mean from a wrecked CR-V? I suppose you could do that, but rebuilding the one you have would require a higher level of expertise than most owners have.
Pcman is likely referencing rear differential clutch chatter which is a common issue not unlike limited slip differential clutch noises that we used to get in the '80s. Changing the fluid, then go out and drive in circles (twenty to the right and twenty to the left), change the fluid again and repeat usually corrects the concern. That's why it's done three times.
LOL, I missed the "clunking" part of the "clunking grinding" had to go back and look at how he wrote that. Either way he is referencing the chatter that can occur in the rear differential when he is talking about the doing it "three times". That of course leads to the inherent problem of not hearing and identifying the noise first hand, there is no way to know whether the rear differential noise is the clutch issue which "can be" helped by the fluid flush.
People often neglect changing the rear differential fluid in a CRV and this is critical. The dealer techs recommend doing this every 30,000 miles in spite of what the book says.
YOU MUST used the correct fluid available only from Honda (that I know of). It's called Dual Pump fluid and you can do this yourself if you have modest skills and a long hose. DO NOT use 90W gear oil!
I have a Honda CRV 2003 with 185000 km on the speedo. I've bought it new so I know that the rear diff fluid has never been changed so far. Recently I started experiencing a problem manifested by grinding noise when taking off uphill and I suspect it's related to the age of the rear diff fluid.I am surprised to read about the need to change the fluid so early.
We have a 2013 CR-V EXL and I too have noticed a continuous "Rub" sound at highway speeds. It only has 55,000km on it and it gets regular service, is driven daily and we change the tires over every Winter. It almost sounds like we are dragging a piece of plywood and the sound resonates throughout the interior. Or.. if the rotors were rusty... it would sound similar. Whatever the noise is... it feels like its transmitting through the spindles. It is annoying because it sounds like a cheap econo-box. We also have a 2013 Toyota Venza and it does not transmit any driveline sounds through the cabin. The car is in virtually new condition and the last thing I want to do is have a mechanic change parts until they figure it out.
Comments
Questions -
- Will it (cost to change Rear Differential Fluid) cover in my warranty?
- Do we have any recommendation from honda when (how many miles) to change this?
How can I contact Honda to resolve this issue?
Thanks
Thanks
If you simply change the rear diff fluid every 30,000 miles you shoildn't ever have a problem. We have two CRV's and one before those and they have been flawless.
I wold have to pull out my Owner's Manual but I think Honda says to do this every 60,000 miles. According to the guys in the shop they think 30,000 miles is better. I go with them. It isn't expensive to have this done.
If you don't have Honda do the work, MAKE VERY SURE they use the correct fluid!
Can't imagine having that done every 15,000 miles. Also, there is no reason why any competent mechanic couldn't do this maintenance, so long as they use the correct fluid.
If a Honda Tech with many years of experience suggests changing the dual pump fluid every 30,000 miles then that's what I'll do.
I change my oil more often than the "book" says too and so does every mechanic I have ever known.
It doesn't take much skill to drain and refill a differential. Just pull the plug, wait for the fluid to drain. Remove the fill plug and refill it.
Good idea to replace the crush washers at the same time just like when doing an oil change.
But, why tempt fate by stretching it to it's limits?
It's not an expensive thing to simply change the fluid every 30,000 miles as the techs do on their own CRV's.
It all started few days ago with my 4-week 2k miles old 2013 CR-V. I noticed a slight "glink" sound when stopping on a red light. At first, I thought it is AC but it was definitely not the AC: it was making it's regular compressor cycles and noises, apart from this new noise. I drove to the safe place, turned AC off and did some tests on a parking lot and it turned out quite easy to replicate. Here are my observations:
1) I hear this sound every time when I switch gear from P to R, or from N to either R/D. It is definitely something that wasn't there before. I do hear transmission switching gears (with regular noise coming from the hood) but this sound is smth supplemental, new, coming from the back of a car (I'd say it sounds like a tiny dog barking in a closed car that could be parked nearby
2) I hear this sound every time I start moving from a full stop, as well as applying brakes to take a car to a full stop. Even sometimes I can get a car clicking back and forth few times by slightly applying brakes when the car moving 5mph or so.
3) From inside a car it sounds like quite "glinck" sound, fairly annoying though. From outside it is a noticeable mechanical "click" sound coming somewhere from underneath the car, close to the back, I guess right where rear dual pump differential is located.
My assumption is that somehow AWD system misbehaves and kicks in every time a car put into either R/D from neutral or parking position, every time a car start moving (I did all the tests on a dry road, so it is not like front wheels are slipping and causing AWD to enable) and turns off when braking.
The car is under "bumper-to-bumper" Honda 1yr warranty so I am planning to show it to the dealer service department asap. I don't want to be unprepared to "we don't think anything is wrong with the car, so take care sir!"-like tricks from the dealer, so please, let me know if I am thinking in a right way and it is really the way I think it is. Has anyone else experienced that or saw similar issue mentioned elsewhere? If indeed it is coming from rear diff, what might be causing this? This should be covered under warranty, right? If it is not rear diff, what it could be then? If the dealer refuse to do free diagnostics/repair (don't know, never owned a new car) can I take it to any official Honda dealer or I am limited to the one I bought the car from?
Thanks in advance!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFl2Wzr1lDo
I am assembling a list of others with similar issues.
Yes, exactly the same thing.
Here is a link below with multiple customers having the same issue:
http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/18324-2012-awd-ticking-no- ise-rear-differential.html
I have the same thing happened when my 2013 CRV hit 5000 miles. I took it to the dealer, and they told me that Honda was aware of this problem but they have not come up with a fix yet. All I can do now is to wait to be contacted by Honda or the dealer when a fix is available. Cannot believe it's been two years already, and they still work on this issue without a solution. Very disappointed!
Can I ask a question about a 2007 CR-V, front wheel drive?
Does the FWD version that makes a noise when shifting to R and turning have a solution?
I'd guess front CV joints/axles. The transmission might be a separate problem.
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But I've noticed the rear differential making this clunking grinding sound if I turn really sharp as mentioned by others here . So I'm gonna try changing it myself.
Has Anyway done this procedure themselves?
I'm pretty mechanical, but will have to do in my driveway.
Is it likewise true it needs to be changed 3 times to fix it? (I read someone stating that)..
Hey thanks for any help.
Also you don't have enough information, from just a noise, to conclude that the differential is the problem.
I would see what a professional scan tool might reveal for trouble codes, and also check all the fluid levels.
Not sure what you mean about "changing" the differential. You mean from a wrecked CR-V? I suppose you could do that, but rebuilding the one you have would require a higher level of expertise than most owners have.
YOU MUST used the correct fluid available only from Honda (that I know of). It's called Dual Pump fluid and you can do this yourself if you have modest skills and a long hose. DO NOT use 90W gear oil!