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Who is Happy with their Jeep Liberty CRD?



  • spetespete Posts: 73
    I have just under 101M on my 05 Liberty CRD and have never enjoyed a vehicle as much as I have this one! I've ran the recommended Mobil oil since day one ....have changed the tranny fluid 2X as I pull my Kawasaki Mule on a tandem trailer on a regular basis. Fuel economy has been great ....low 20's pulling my trailer and 25 -27 MPG average when not pulling my trailer. The only thing I have replaced is the alternator which went out at 98M miles ....I can't complain about that. I'd purchase this vehicle again if a small diesel were offered. I also have a '97 Wrangler that I wish had this engine. I'll only have a diesel in my next vehicle so until something else comes along, I'll have to keep this one running! I have a close friend that also had a CRD and just sold it a month ago so he could move to a larger vehicle ...he went to a 3/4 t. Dodge with the Cummins ....but only because he needed a larger truck ...he also loved his CRD and hated to see it go.
  • Glad to hear just past 90 k and all the problems of past ended. I have come to the conclusion that the mechanics at various dealers or the lack of, could have contributed to many of the previous problems. Since warranty ended I have found a diesel mechanic and use standyne diesel additive he suggested.
    My only challenge is winter cold and living off the grid I cannot plug in the block warmer all night so I have to start the generator and run the block warmer off of it. Hey even the gasoline generator does not like to start in the cold. I have used gas treatment like heet but the engines just do not want too wake up and start in the early am cold. Happy holidays to all. :) :) :)
  • I bought my 05 CRD in 2009! When i bought it it had 68k miles. I have driven this truck from south Mississippi to Homer Alaska and back pulling a 5k lb trailer. I have not had any major problems with my truck. My husband has replaced the timming belt, water pump, theromastat, fuel filter and serpentine belt. The only thing that sucks with the liberty is the hoses that connect to the turbo. I have to say this is one of the best vehicles i have owned!
  • I am wondering what problems you are referring to regarding the hoses.
  • Thanks a mill and have a great New Year.
  • I have a 2005 CRD that I purchased new. This is the most amazing deisel I have owned and coming from a farm, I have had several. The one negative I have to say about this Jeep is really against the Jeep/Chrysler people themselves.
    Not 1500k's after the warranty expired, my turbo charger died. I did everything by the book in the way of regular maintenance so I was very disappointed in Jeep/Chrysler for not stepping up to the plate and honoring the warranty. I would have been okay with them offering me 50%. The total cost of this repair was north of $3500. CDN.
    Apart from this unfortunate incident, I have to say that this vehicle is top drawer. I also use the recommended Mobil One oil and have done so since day one.
    I now have 185,000k's on this vehicle and am looking for a new battery. I had the original checked and its at half, only cranking out 350 amps. So I am in the market for a new one, just doing some due dillegence in which brand to get, although the original has worked out just fine, so I might look at a dealor item.
    If anyone has a suggestion, I'm listening.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    put on a provent or make your own to protect your turbo.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited January 2012
    If any owners or potential owners think a JGC may fit them better, please check out the Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel Announcement discussion. If anyone has any comments about this new rig, especially the engine, and especially if you are one of our friends in the EU, please pop in over there and post.
  • Funny you should mention that. I went to the dealer three days ago to get a fuel filter for my Libby. I just had to look over the new iron in the showroom. One of the salesmen knew I had a diesel Liberty, he came over and bragged up the new, forthcoming Grand Cherokee Diesel. According to him it is not the Mercedez blue tec. He didn't have exact specs but he had been told it was going to be a very good combination of torque and fuel mileage.

    By the way. Dealers no longer have the filter cannister by itself. The only way it comes is with the whole heater-primer housing. When they told me $140 I almost choked. I ended up getting one from O'Reilly auto parts. $30 even there. I sure wish there was a simpler, less expensive option. And, it would suit me fine if the new one was about two inches shorter so it would slip out without removing the whole housing.
  • Hi Bio d, I just purchased a fuel filter recently from my dealer.It was a mopar fuel filter part # 52129238AA for $31.95. I was $41.95 in the past. I was pleasantly surprised. I reluctantly paid the labor to have another diesel mechanic do the replacement. I did not have the time but how hard is it to replace it myself is there something I have to do or know about replacing it myself. I used to do all my own basic maintenance back in the days when there were know computerized mechanisms and we knew what a timing gun was. Since I am getting older I am returning to my youth of do it yourselfer.
    Thanks, grider.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    not hard to replace. If you have installed an in tank fuel pump, it is self primes. I had no trouble changing mine from the top. But check thins out:
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I ordered from these guys last year and had no trouble:

    I stumbled across a SUPER oil, fuel, air filter deal. WIX filters, it's a direct buy at dealer cost through the Dodge ram diesel forum, I just bought 12 wix oil filters, (6 for my Jeep and 6 for my Dodge Ram for $50.43 delivered. My Dodge filters are usually over $12 each. Here they are under $5.

    Have your wix filter numbers ready and go to: (might have to search around for a few minutes if it does not come right up)
    Click "HERE" (if current customer) (which you are)
    Enter "moparts" for customer #
    Enter "moparts" for password (all lower case letters)
    click "Login"
    Click "go to quick order form"
    Enter your Wix numbers and quantity needed.
    You should have your WIX filter numbers handy before you start.
    Shipping is FREE if order is over $50
  • c_m_crdc_m_crd Posts: 1
    Have a 2006 CRD...last year it stopped running... Jeep dealer said I needed to replace all rocker arms and OH cam shafts due to lack of lubrication. Well I would agree that is why most engines fail. What they could not tell me is why there was a lack of lubrication. Is it worth the $5k repair job to get it running again? It only has 86k miles. Not very impressed with the CRD quality or the Chrysler techs how wouldn't or couldn't tell me what happened.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Yes it is worth repairing, but I would go with a local Diesel shop, might save some money. And as long as they are tearing it that far apart, make sure they replace the timing belt, water pump and thermostat.
    The lack of lubrication must be addressed as well, what type of oil were you using? Do you allow it to idle for a minute or 2 before shutting down the engine? Might consider replacing the oil pump as well.
    there are also used engines on EBAY from time to time, or you can try for a used one.

    Best of luck: Bob
  • austin29austin29 Posts: 1
    We have a crd and love it . But we are experiencing one issue that I have not read on here yet . Our jeep will make a growling noise when idling and the belt vibrates. Does this in a kind of cycling pattern and is worse with the AC on . We have changed the belts as well as the alternator.
  • spetespete Posts: 73
    I'm not 100% sure on this ..but have you checked bearings in the idler pulleys? I also had a "funny" sound that I had a hard time identifing and found that I had a bad bearing in one of the idler pulleys at the front of the engine. It's worth checking out.
  • If you are careful, you can use a piece of rubber hose, hold it to your ear and move it around with the engine running to try locating the area of loudest noise.

    My bet is either one of the pulleys that guide the belt or the AC compressor bearings.

    Do be careful, if the rubber hose gets caught it can pull your hand in. Use a piece long enough you can hold it to your ear with one hand and leave at least two feet between your other hand and the end of the hose you are moving around under the hood. Keep it away from the belt.
  • Hi
    Having a problem again with the EGR valve. have a code 401 come asking for a up date for the system. Phone dealer ship do not know any soft ware up dates for the EGR.
    They think that it is the tubes between the EGR and engine need cleaning out.
    Any ideas?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    install a provent system
  • What is a provent system?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    It traps all the sludge that clogs up your egr valve and is responsible for turbo failure. here it is, I bought one on EBAY and installed it myself, pretty simple;
    The CRD is a basically a great little vehicle, however some last minute cost cutting by Jeep and meeting smog requirements, took a really super vehicle and implanted several problems. The "Lost Jeeps" forum has several articles by backyard CRD mechanics who have brought their CRD's up to their potential. Many have made their own provent like systems for penny's. And they work just about as well but with a little more maintence.
    There are a few "Musts" (as I consider them) IF you want to keep your CRD running for 300k miles and increase your fuel miliage. the provent (or something like it) tops the list. second is to put in the "In Tank" fuel pump that was cut out to save manufacturing $$. A fuel pump from a 2002-2005 Dodge diesel pick up fits right in and is cheap on EBAY. The wiring is already there under the carpet behind the drivers seat. Currently your CRD pulls fuel to the engine and the cheap guitar clamps on the fuel lines are prone to leaks, which can cause stalling. with the addition of the in tank pump/sender you have a pressurized fuel system which eliminates this problem and saves wear and tear on the very expensive engine mounted pump. A high flow muffler is a worthwhile improvement. The Green Diesel ECO Tune is a bit expensive @ $450 but it will increase your power and give you 2 to 4 more MPG. A Transgo transmission shift kit, is a pretty simple install and costs about $35, it will make your shifting more positive.
    If you intend to keep your crd for several years and do alot of towing youwill need a heavy duty torque converter, suncoast makes the best but it is $1,000 give or take a couple of hundred.
    The transmission is a weak point in the CRD, although it was designed for a dodge truck, it simply cannot handle the high torque of the CRD engine.
    For those who which to remain "stock" There is a procedure referred to as "Blowing it's nose" to clean out some of the sludge (that the provent system will remove). What you do is go to a freeway onramp or an open stretch of road, stop, down shift, and then excellerate at full throttle (do not go past redline on the tach) until the black smoke that will come out of your tail pipe clears up.
    Hope this helps: Bob
  • i had a problem with my liberty crd. the belt tensioner on the front of the motor broke. if your crd is making a ratting noise dont listen to the others and ignore it. it will break. the dealer seems to be the only place to get this part. i ordered through o'reilly's and got it for a little less than what the dealer wanted.( they ordered from the dealer and got a better price).
    hope that this doesnt happen again. the price was $260.
  • engcrengcr Posts: 1
    I want to buy a Jeep Liberty CRD 2008 or newer
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    In the USA they only made the Liberty diesel in 2005 and 2006.
    They did have a grand cherokee diesel in 2010.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    When I added the Dodge diesel in tank fuel pump/sender to my CRD I also added a "sedimentator". I installed it in the drivers side rear wheel well.
    It is a pre filter without an element. It swirels the diesel in a little chamber seperating the water and larger particles which settle to the bottom and you periodically drain it via a little drain plug. This prolongs the life of the main fuel filter considerably.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Did you ever solve your problem?
  • Good Luck with that.

    I regret to inform you the CRD could not be certified to pass emissions for the year 2007. There was still a lot of high sulfur fuel at the pumps which would burn too dirty to pass emissions, so Chrysler had to discontinue the CRD in the Liberty. NOW, if all the pumps had the ultra low sulfur we now have, I am certain the CRD could have been marketed a few more years.

    There are some diesel powered full size Grand Cherokees out there. But it will be hard to find them. I believe only or two years of that were built. That has the Mercedes diesel in it. I believe it was called blue tec. The NADA site only lists 2007 and2008 as having the 3.0L diesel in the Grand.

    A 3.0 L turbo diesel will be available in the new Grand Cherokee but it will be more expensive then a used one of course. That one will have a Fiat inspired engine that makes 406 LBS of torque.

    Good luck hunting.
  • bdprobdpro Posts: 2
    Hi all, this being my first post in this forum, I do not intend to disrespect anyone.
    Here is my experience with the 2.8 vm motori inside the Liberty.
    I have used 100% BIODIESEL since my Liberty came off the container in 2005, (I live in Hawaii) I have produced BD for many years, I know how. My Liberty has a vague childhood memory of what Dinofuel is. &years of BD, and has now about 70 000 mi driven on 100% BD.
    BD means ABSOLUTELY NO MODIFICATIONS to the car necessary.
    Today my CRD still sounds like when it was new, has plenty of power, as on day one, the mileage, however, was never great. The amount of smoke when you floor the beast, is a little less, yes.

    Bottom line, I have good news for BD users. Of course, you have to be handy.
    Firstly, Biodiesel is NOT straight Vegetable Oil.
    It is chemically altered, it is a solvent, and here is the source for potential problems.

    If you start using 100% BD things will go bump in minor ways, but NEVER doubt the engine. It is fine.
    What will go bad first, is the fuel gauge sending unit....BD dissolves SOME plastics.
    next problem the turbo air hose from turbo to intercooler. then again, there was a problem with that anyway, because Mopar went to a different material.
    The fuel filter needs replacing, and that is a procedure you need to be familiar with, because this is a prime example how not to design a fuel system. Air starts entering here, because the fuel filter seems to be in the suction line. Mercedes puts it into the pressure line and then you see fuel dripping, that's all the problem you will have. Don't even try to replace the fuel filter from underneath the car, simply take the fuel filter mount off the firewall.

    The EGR failed, but it failed in Dinofuel CRD's as well.
    The preglow and injectors never gave any problem. The high pressure pump, no problem.
    the engine, no problem.
    hoses to the fuel filter are now starting to disintegrate, they lasted 7 years.
    On my mercedes that is now 26 years old, the rubber hoses are still perfect.

    All in all, I think that the Vm motori 2.8l is a good engine, and the CRD is a good injection system, and they can definitely be run on BD, but the way our engineers packaged it into the chassis, paired it with a marginally suitable transmission (remember the recalls w the torque converter) results in a car that requires the owner to take some initiative, if necessary. Lets put it that way.

    Fun to drive, no question about that, I'd be hesitant though, to call this car a great automotive solution for the everyday commute, thinking about the rather mediocre fuel economy, overall.

    Lastly, please consider, that there is an abundance of smart talking people out there who don't know really what BD is, have never produced it, never used it for many years, and still act like they know everything about it. Not to get political here, but the amount of mis- and disinformation about alternative fuels that's out there is also mindboggling.

  • Thanks for the post and no offending to me. I'm glad I didn't bother with a bio-fuel as I have not had the results listed. I originally wanted to convert it to VGO, but after waiting for the 7 yr. warranty to end and pondering, I became less enthusiastic about doing a VGO conversion. Cheers.
  • bdprobdpro Posts: 2
    yes, good decision not to go that route because SVO will add a whole new dimension to this, on account of its high viscosity, the necessary modifications being messy and the time involved to pick up used veg oil.
    ON THE OTHER HAND...I went about 70 000 miles at 20 mpg thusly used approx. 3500 gal BD which cost me between $1 and $1.20 per gal to produce (not counting the time and A LOT OF IT that was) ..3$ a gal of dinodiesel when I started to $5.40 where we are now in Hawaii......figure that a median price per gal of $4.20 ..
    that is $14700 I would have paid at the pump minus $3500 that's the amount I paid for the BD I produced...I saved $11200 over 7 years.

    considering the money i used to constantly refine the production, is not accounted for , the time, the dirt and grime, the frustration with restaurants about collecting, obtaining methanol, hydroxide .....

    I tell you, my friend of common sense, I leave it up to you to draw the right conclusion. In addition...HAWAII! think of the temperature! Biodiesel heaven! lots of restaurants with cooking oil. Below freezing temperatures will cause BD to crystallizes MUCH SOONER than dinodiesel. Add that to the big picture and it will kill the BD idea instantly.

    More to the point, I just dropped the tank to finally replace the sending unit, and what I found inside the tank.....after I used the best clearest, well prefiltered BD I was able to make, was gunk, gunk, gunk.

    Please let me add 2 warnings, if you will. The SVO and biodieselers, not being well organized on the island, but hearing from each other on occasion, it is known to me that prolonged use of SVO will cause coked (sticky) rings and engine failure. EVENTUALLY. Partial remedy: use dino diesel and drive like hell to burn off deposits, but wouldn't you rather sit with the family and not worry?

    secondly, there was this secret recipy of adding ATF, petroleum and who knows what else to SVO to make it more fluid. BAD IDEA. A guy here lost BOTH W123 mercedes that way.

    So, once the fuel gauge works again on my CRD, and is back together, I will definitely sell Mr. Liberty, too bad you guys are not in Hawaii, since I was reading frequent posts in this forum, by people who are looking for one. Not that I am dumping it, because of BD usage, no, it runs great sounds great has power...but I need something with better mileage.
    best regards, good luck all!
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