Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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bob
From the name you supplied, I can't be certain this is the same part that had a recall issue. It was a rear suspension component but they are the ones that sit on the side of the frame rail. Probably a different part. I found it hard to believe the recall was issued due a few showing rust. If that part failed the rear suspension could twist under the jeep and cause a loss of steering.
I'm glad you are having good luck with the dealer. may it always be so.
Mine at 110,000 went in for the timing belt replacement. I also requested a new water pump and I specified it must be the Chrysler part. At 135,000 she is still running strong.
I have had my CRD for 2 years, all re-calls were current when I bought it.
Has this come out since then?
Thanks: Bob
I got rid of my '05 about two years ago with just under 80k miles. It got to the point where I coulde not trust the vehicle to be reliable. In addition, parts were becoming "rare" and VERY expensive. I had the 80k warranty and I just did not want to chance keeping it. Just before trading it (for a tacoma). I had the ECM and EGR replaced under warranty. It was the second EGR in 8k miles and fourth in the cars history. The repair would have cost over 1800 dollars without the warranty backing. This final repair was in addition to all the other times the Jeep had been in for repairs that a vehicle with relatively low miles should never have needed.
I feel that Chrysler/Jeep screwed the owners of these cars in the US. They had no dealer support or training for the diesels. I was very disappointed with the vehicle and will never buy a Chrysler or Jeep product again.
Sounds like that dealer didn't see a future in the CRD and neglected to send their tech to school for it. The EGR needed to be replaced with the stainless version. Mine acted up at just 12000 miles and was replaced with the SEGR. It still works good at 100,000+ miles. That suggests their mechanic didn't know there was a better part available.
Sorry you had a bad deal, not all dealers are like that.
There might have been something else causing your trouble as well. Maybe the rings didn't seat properly or ....who knows? My advice to people is always keep paperwork. Once you are past the warranty mileage you can still go back to issues that came up during warranty and by calling a field rep you can sometimes get them to make amends.
What you ended up with was extreme. Mine just now needed a new EGR at 130,000 miles. So the good one lasted from about 12K to 130K. Now with all new EGR and turbo hoses it runs like a scalded cat so I am certain the intake is not all caked up nor the valves. I certainly hope the people who did the repairs have asked you to return for a check up to see if the problem is resurfacing. If the rings were never seated properly all this will come back soon.
I feel terrible that you had all this trouble when it should never have happened. I would write a letter to corporate and let them know all the problems you had due to a dealer who did not properly diagnose the issues with your CRD. you might get some compensation out of it. I heard of a guy who documented all the problems he had with a product. He kept EVERY piece of paper. Corporate gave him a huge discount on his choice of new vehicles since he had already sold the troublesome one and was driving an old clunker.
IF id is the TQ spend the additional and go with the SunCoast and you should be set for life.
Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? If so, have the front tires re-balanced
Best ofr luck: Bob
there are so many things it could be. U joint that gets some harmonic vibe from the engine, the engine mount as suggested, the turbo engaging at very low rpm in a high gear.
I mention harmonics because when things can vibrate they sometimes get other things to vibrate with them at a certain speed or a rpm. That is why it would occur only under certain conditions.
Wishing you luck with that.
Here is the result. The oil which managed to not drip significantly on the gravel so I could see it caused numerous hoses to be compromised. They have a coating on the inside to protect them from the oil they carry but NOT the outside. If I had needed to crawl underneath I would have seen there was oil leakage but it coated the side of the engine and was not noticeable on my gravel driveway.
The hose that carries pressurized air from the turbo split and I heard air swooshing every time I gave it a bit of throttle. Several of the hoses that are part of emissions were cracked and compromised. The hoses that carry trans fluid were so soft it is a wonder they didn't burst and dump all my trans fluid on the ground.
Mind you, I checked under the hood at about halfway through the 6000 mile mark for the oil change and I did not see that oil leakage. Must have been right after that that things went down hill. It was probably two months that leak was eating away at my hoses and rotting them.
So, at 134,000 miles my Jeep went in to find out what the dickens was the start of the trouble. A new EGR valve, all new hoses to the turbo, new oil separator, new trans fluid lines fluids, and labor cost me $1,400 at the dealer. The EGR alone was $267! They did me right for labor and parts according to what some others are reporting for costs.
Evidently when this starts it starts too small for you to see any drips. But its eating away at all your hoses. So for pete's sake look under there more often if your vehicle has miles on it. In my case it was how long the hoses soaked in the oil. It doesn't take a lot because when I checked the oil it was down only half way between max and min.
Wrong oil might cause a bearing problem with the turbo.
If it was NOT full synthetic it might not be able to take the heat, start breaking down and cause the seals to go or the bearing itself to get wobbly and blow the seal.
Another issue that is very important. If your driving has made the turbo work even a bit hard, the turbo and all its housing and bearings will be HOT. The engine should not be turned off suddenly with a hot turbo. The heat is normally carried away by the normal operation of the engine. Turning the engine off allows heat to build up to even higher temperatures then while pulling hard under load. I'm not saying you ruined the turbo because the wrong oil could definitely do that. I'm saying that the engine should never be turned off suddenly if the turbo is hot.
Around town if you have to accelerate hard to move through traffic even that can be enough to heat the turbo. Idling in traffic counts as cool down time so I always do a mental check on how much idle time in between acceleration there is. I normally park and sit for just a minute or two before turning the engine off. Driving on the interstate I use a second key in the ignition, exit and lock the door with my remote leaving the engine running. You can't manually lock the door with the key in. That way when I need to hit the rest room in a hurry, I can let it idle while I'm inside.
I have used full synthetic oil ever since my first oil change. I usually do it at 6,000 but on occasion it has gone past that mark with no harm done. My Liberty now has 135,000 miles on the original turbo with no problems from the turbo itself. I had an oil leak when the EGR failed and plugged up the oil separator but the turbo is fine.
If the shop put the wrong oil in, you might be able to go back on them, IF you have the receipts. That would show which oil they used based on the price. If you think they charged you for synthetic and gave you standard oil you can send a sample to an analysis center and that will give you a full report on exactly what that oil is. They could be held liable for ignoring procedure. That IS what we pay them for.
Good luck with your problems, hope you figure it out.
When I learned at a Jeep Camporee the CRD was coming to the US, I knew right then I wanted one. I calculated if it only got 25 mpg and diesel was 40cents higher per gallon, I would still be driving for less then the gas unit. City driving really tears into mpg so don't be too hard on yours if it seems you are not doing well.
It doesn't take much throttle to activate that turbo. I actually think I would prefer to delay the turbo a bit later but I'm not sure if that can be done. When the turbo starts spooling you might not realize it because it comes up gradually. The variable vane turbo is very smooth. Whenever that turbo is working the system has to add fuel to maintain a proper burn so it is like you are feeding six cylinders instead of four.
When the hose from the turbo split I could hear air hissing even at moderate throttle so that turbo is working way before you realize it. That's why she pulls so strong even below 1500rpm with maybe 1/3 throttle. I could hear mine working through that split hose. It would be helpful to install a boost gauge, then you could see when it is working and maybe learn how not to spool it up.
I'm going to ask my diesel tech about the boost gauge and see what he says.
Best of luck to all you folks. Here's hoping you have a great weekend.
The transmission is the biggest variable depending on what you pull with it and how often you change fluid. And what fluid you use. Should be good to 200,000 since it is the heavy duty version. They found out early on the torque convertor wasn't tough enough for all that torque so recalls were made on that.
The EGR is demonstrating it is only good for about 100-120K. Mine only cost $270 at the dealer. Don't let them over charge for that and make certain they stick to the manpower hours or they will whack you for labor. If you are slender and a bit agile you can do it at home but it can really try your patience as it is a tight spot.
All the other stuff is about the same as for a gas powered Libby.
Be careful out there and keep on chuggin............
Anyone got any ideas????? I will lose two gallons a week easily.
I actually did love the car, but now I will possibly be spending about 5K on an engine with 105K miles. A new engine is about 6K. I am at a loss as to who can fix this thing. Dealer or outside shop. It is hard to find anyone to work on it. I dont know if I can actually afford to sell it.
Before doing anything else however, replace your radiator cap. If it is not sealing you will loose water through evaporation and if that is the case, it is a heck of a lot cheaper.
Pur a Provent system on your crd to cut down on engine problems, it will take alot of the gunk out of the smog set up that causes turbo and EGR failure.
Best of luck: Bob
Coolant might be the water pump as one other mentioned.
I am going to stick my neck out and suggest you have the water pump replaced when you have the timing belt done. The labor is only a fraction more because they have tear the same things apart to get at it.
I'm not sure why you would be looking at replacing an engine with only 105K miles. that engine should easily go to 300,00 before needing new rings or any machine work.
Make certain you are using approved FULL synthetic oil. It is so much cleaner and with that pesky EGR system you need the oil as clean as possible. Don't worry about changing brands so long as they have the ratings listed in the owners manual. Buy what is on sale and change it at least every 6K.
Maybe it helps the engine as well as fuel, I add fuel treatment at least every other tank in the summer and every tank in the winter. That keeps water out of the system and must help clean injectors because mine now has 145K and it runs better then when new.
I hope you can find a good mechanic who goes to diesel school on a regular basis. Brydens, the Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge dealer in Beloit, WI has a guy who really knows his stuff. He did my timing belt and water pump and it cost $1200. I've heard horror stories about dealers charging $2-3,000 for that.
I got rid of the jeep and bought a brand new car Mazda with a 6 yr. warranty
NO MORE PROBLEMS
Best of luck.
Unless we get the check-engine light out, the car won't pass the emission inspection required in our state. Evidently it isn't that easy because we can't find anyone who will work on it for less than $3,000, including the Jeep dealerships. Evidently it's a major hassle requiring special tools and removal of the cylinder head, EGR valve, etc. (unless we got bad information). A diesel mechanic told us to just replace the #2 glow plug (with a metal one) and put it back together. He said there's a good chance the broken-off piece has already been pulverized and gone through the engine without damaging it. However, he declined to work on it himself.
This seems to be about the only choice we have. Hopefully the check-engine light will go out, it will pass the emission test, and we will be able to get the tags renewed. Then we will probably trade it. It's been a good car but it's not worth the problems these factory-installed ceramic glow plugs can present.
Glow plugs themselves are expendable items, so if they just wear out, that's normal. Breaking is not normal of course.
Dose any one still have their CRD on the road? Mine is at 120k, 2006 she needs some work done. Possibly the bearings and a exhaust leak (minor into cab). At this point I'm deciding whether to fix and keep on keeping on or to sell (possibly part out).
Any opinions? Or CRD collectors with help on how go about this?
water pump, timing belt, thermostat,and one rear sway bar in between. Out west it pushed 32 mpg. east coast 22-24 summer fuel, winter mpg is a flat 20 . Use Rotella synthetic change oil every 5m, fuel filter every 15M, and on second set of rotors. tire wear is good.
Transmission had a chadder in when I bought it and change oil as needed based on chatter, still same trans. It is getting tired and we will run through winter and see how it fairs till spring. Will be over close to or over 300,000.
Body is good. We enjoy the ride.
Still looking for someone who really knows about the engine, everyone goes you have a what?