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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Noises and Sounds

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Is the tapping regular? Does its frequency change with engine speed? Could it just be thermal expansion while the engine or exhaust manifold are heating?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jaco4jaco4 Member Posts: 5
    I am the one with the 2004 Grand Cherokee. I turned :confuse: the air conditioner off. Still makes this tapping sound. As you go
    faster the tapping sound also goes faster. Only happens
    on first time start up. Antbody else have this problem?
    Please advise.
  • jaco4jaco4 Member Posts: 5
    Yes the tapping sound is regular only in the first start up.
    It does change frequency with engine speed. I read that someone mention using this Marvel Mystery Oil,should i use it?
    I found new "evidence',this stops when the oil gauge reaches
    210 ,which is normal? I need more advice from somebody please?
    jaco
  • 94jeep94jeep Member Posts: 2
    my jeep chatters @2000 rpm when it warms but when it shifts gears it stops
  • 3rdjeepowner3rdjeepowner Member Posts: 6
    I am new at this and my skills in mechanical repairs are limited. But I have spend many hours reading just what could go wrong with my Cherokee Sport, and how much the part would cost. One site I was on recommended replacing this part to stop a tapping sound on cold engines. The part did not look that large, almost like a short pipe, located somewhere near the transmission. I hope the experts can gleam something from what little I have added. Good luck. 3rdjpowner :D
  • jaco4jaco4 Member Posts: 5
    I am the one who has the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 40,000 miles and has that tapping sound. It is only on the first start,last s about 20 or 30 minutes then goes away.
    The tapping is a regular,every morning and yes the sound goes faster when the acelarator is pushed down. I really need some suggestions! Please! :confuse:
  • 94jeep94jeep Member Posts: 2
    my jeep chatters 2000 rpm when it warms but when it shifts through the gears it quits i have notice oil pressure is a little low
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds like lifter have you tryed marvel mistry oil in the engine?
  • jeepnoisejeepnoise Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 JGC with 100,000 miles. It is now making a sound like the one you would hear if you put a baseball card in the spokes of bicycle wheel. The sound is loudest at the gear shift lever. It comes on when I take my foot off the accelerator, gets louder as I brake, and also comes on when the Jeep goes over a dip in the road. It does not sound when I accelerate, when I'm in reverse, or when the front drive shaft is out. So far we have checked the transmission, put in a different transfer case, put in a different drive shaft, and taken out the dust filters on both ends of the drive shaft. Everyone who has worked on it is now out of ideas. Can anyone out there solve this mystery?
  • mmelkimmelki Member Posts: 4
    I have a completely stock Jeep Cherokee 2000, no lift, no big tires, ALL STOCK. I just changed the track bar, steering stabilizer shock, drivers front U-joint and drivers front ball joints(upper and lower) and a steering alignment. I have "death wobble". What I want to know is why my Jeep makes a clunking sound when I turn at slower speeds, 1mph-25mph. It loves to make the noise when sharper turns are made. What could it be? Also noted I experienced a "death wobble" one week ago and it shook my steering wheel crooked, which is now fixed. Since then my 4 wheel drive light doesn't turn on anymore but the 4 wheel drive low and high both work properly. I don't care about the "death wobble" anymore, I just want to elimate the sound that it is making when I turn so that I can trade in my Jeep and return the favor to the dealership. Thank you in advance. If you would like you can email me @ akamikemelki@yahoo.com
  • agemoney18agemoney18 Member Posts: 2
    hello yes i have kind of the same problem, when i dive under neath where my door is a winding sound and only comes on when im driving but has gotten louder. You have any ideas?
  • agemoney18agemoney18 Member Posts: 2
    i have many problems right now that i am not quite sure of. There is a griding noise under my side of the car my my door. im not quite sure wat it is any ideas? i also have a problem with my quad trac not goin into neutral or 4lo. any ideas thanks
  • jaco4jaco4 Member Posts: 5
    I am the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee that had the mysterious
    tappin sound that would only be present on a first start up
    and would last about 30 minutes. Well this got progressively
    worse where every start up I would hear this sound! The sound still goes away at 1500 RPM. I took it to the Jeep dealer,they said it was an emission leak,needed new hoses! Another mechanics told me to live with it! I went to 4 mechanics that told me everything from piston slapping to my lifters! The solution. I went to another small shop. This gentleman worked 20 years for Jeep. He knew right off the bat what it was! Now guys and girls if you have this tapping sound like mine ,check to replace your EVAP PURGE SOLENOID!
    Thing runs like a top! :) Thanks to all that gave me suggestions! Nice site!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That's nice to know, Jaco! Thanks for the feedback.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • canyonmancanyonman Member Posts: 7
    Noise, rattles coming from back of my 1999 Grand Cherokee,
    mostly when going over small bumps, sounds like interior panels, head liner or rear hatch

    I installed some long sheet metal screws in side panels, this helped reduce the noises.
  • canyonmancanyonman Member Posts: 7
    My 1999 Grand Cherokee makes a loud craking sound when door is opened and closed. its is caused by a broken door stop

    has anyone replaced or fixed this problem without going to the dealer?
  • cmoroneycmoroney Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 96 jcs 4.0 liter and i have the same noise when i let off the throttle and it goes away when i step on the gas again i was told it was the chain in the t-case if so does it have to be rebuilt or can it be adjusted i only have 105000 on jeep and it was stock until i got it and put 31's on it (aprox 6000 miles ago) all fluids are fresh any info please
  • tarheel5tarheel5 Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone tell me how to replace the rear wheel bearings and seal on a 97 JGC 4 wheel drive.
  • cheifdoncheifdon Member Posts: 1
    Matt,
    Did you find out the problem with your jeep. I had the same problem. I have since changed the motor mounts, transfer case, and both front end barons. Talk about getting ripped off, it's still there. Very weird, when I let off the gas it make the noise in the front drivers side under the hood. It sounds like it's in the front axle.
  • bluecrushbluecrush Member Posts: 1
    Just this morning, while I was going over a bump, it sounded like something on my car was hitting the ground and it was scraping it. I don’t know what it is, but it’s a loud noise. It sounds like it’s coming from my LF and the sound is only when I go over large bumps (Speed bumps) or potholes. Anybody have any idea what it might be?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    if it is 4x4 i would check the front wheel bearings if only one has goon bad could make noise you say
  • jack99jack99 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I just bought used at 45,000 miles. The steering is making a funny whistling noise when I turn. It sounds like you can change the pitch by slightly turning the wheel in either direction when it is doing this. Fluid is full and no problems exist with steering capabilities. Anyone have a problem such as mine?
  • oakley3oakley3 Member Posts: 2
    Please help.

    My Jeep is a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

    I hear a hissing and/or whooshing sound as soon as I start the engine. The sound seems to be coming from under the dash by the brake booster.

    When I press down on the brake pedal at any time, the hissing/whooshing sound stops. But when I release the brake pedal, then step on the gas pedal, the sound starts again.

    The braking system works great.

    Any advice???
    Please help. Sure would appreciate it!!!
  • summerfield1summerfield1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm having a similar problem with my '04 Cherokee 4.0 ltr I-6. I can't get the belt to stop squeaking! I've replace the idler arm tensioner and pulley, the power steering pulley, the alternator, and the belt 3 times. It quits squeaking for a few days, then it comes back. Sometimes its a faint "chirp, chirp, chirp", other times it screams!Frusterating!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I forgot where I saw it now, but some belts (Gates, iirc) have logos that are painted onto the belts. The paint can cause chirping. Putting belt dressing on the belt will mask the symptoms for a few days until the dressing wears off.

    I'll see if I can find that link....

    [edit] ah, here it is - worth a shot:

    jlflemmons, "Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Issues" #45, 6 Apr 2007 5:56 am
  • hemified05hemified05 Member Posts: 7
    Hey guys, I have recently noticed a loud clunking sound in the front end when I go over bumps. I also can feel it under my feet. :confuse: It has gotten louder over the last 2 weeks. I thought it might be due to the frigid temps here in central Illinois, but I only have about 700 miles left on my warranty, and naturally the dealer can't get me in until next week. They are and have been worthless :mad: Has anyone experienced this problem??? I am worried that the warranty will expire before I get it in and I will get royally F*%ked. Thanks for your assistance!!
  • conormconorm Member Posts: 1
    I have an '04 grand cherokee and it makes this odd, intermittent, grinding metal noise (as if my muffler were scraping along the ground as I drive... but its not). It sounds like its coming from the rear end around the diff, although I just had the diff replaced not too long ago at a shop. Nothing appeared to be out of place so I've waved it off as something maybe getting stuck around my wheels. Just wanted to know if any of you guys have experienced this or know what it could be.

    Input would be much appreciated!!
    - Conor
  • sprintsprint Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A SRT 8 GRAND CHEROKEE 12000 MILES BAD SQUEEK DEALER CANT SAY MUCH WHAT AER MY OPTONS ?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    DEALER CANT SAY MUCH

    What did the dealer say? Did they check the brakes for you?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jamzusajamzusa Member Posts: 7
    I agree fully with you. Sounds like this guy knows nothing about cars at all to describe what he just did as I haven't a clue what it would be by that description.... You need to do some investigating unless you have an endless bank account and can afford a mechanic to, probably, rip you off diagnosing it as he'll see for sure you know nothing and are an easy target. This almost sounds like a blonde woman describing her car issue.... Sorry but you need to educate yourself on your own car more. That's my advice. That description helps nothing to solve your problem from my standpoint.
  • jamzusajamzusa Member Posts: 7
    About half a year ago or more I accidently downshifted, I had borrowed a stick shift pickup and was in the habit of shifting so..., into reverse and my Jeep slammed into reverse jarring the engine extremely. After that a clanking noise started here and there in the lower part of the engine. It wasn't constant but now and then it would clang like something hitting something there. Someone said it might be the flywheel. I don't know what it is but just starting today it's like it's coming loose, whatever it is, and it's clanging around at low rpm's. I'm afraid it'll come off, whatever it is, then I'll have a HUGE problem. Anyone know what damage I did and what it is that's loose? I'm sure it's simple but I need to know so I can get it fixed. I don't want a garage to rip me off. I very much appreciate this as I need to get it done asap! I'm afraid to drive it much now. Thank you for your help!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I would check the engine mounts but better to hear from the experts here. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Just how fast were you going when you shifted into reverse? Very slow, I hope! That would have caused the least amount of damage. It could be a lot of things, including the flywheel. You really should have had that checked out right after you did it. The longer something is allowed to go on, the worse the damage gets, which could mean one thing coming apart and doing severe damage to surrounding or attached parts. I'm sorry if this is scaring you a little, but without really looking at it, it's hard to say what it could be. What year and model Jeep is it? Is it 2 or 4-wheel drive and which motor do you have? Let us know and maybe someone here can help possibly pinpoint the problem.
  • jamzusajamzusa Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the input. It's a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Larado, straight 6, 4-wheel drive. It wasn't going too fast, around 35 or so. Stupid move, I know. Either way, I understand what you're saying. I didn't have it checked as it didn't do anything other than make a noise every now and then but you are right. It will get worse and worse and could cause damage to other things which is what it might be doing now clanging around. I'm guessing it might be a loose flywheel, the bolts sheared off or something. The mechanic is going to look at it on Tuesday. it drives fine other than that noise at idle and gets worse at a low idle, obviously something's loose and doesn't wobble when the speed increases because of centrifigal force. I appreciate your input very much!
  • tknapptknapp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand cherokee Limited. V8 4.7L. For about 5 months now it has been making this annoying humming sound from the back. You cant hear it from the outside unless you put your head right by the back right wheel area. I took it to a mechanic and he said it could be the fuel pump. So I had the fuel pump replaced. Didn't fix the noise. It is still the same. It sounds like it could have definatly been the pump but since replacing it didnt work I am at a loss. If you open the back, you can hear it the worst. It hums when im in park and very lightly when going 10-30mph and almost unhearable at higher speeds.
    the mechanic says some cars just have noisy fuel pumps. well he replaced it with a brand new one, so why is it still noisy?
    Do you have any suggestions to as what it might be?
    Thank You.
  • ed04ed04 Member Posts: 9
    need a little help. i have a 2004 jgc with 38,000 miles with a annoying noise coming from the rear.when i go over bumps around 30 mhr or faster sounds like something is loose. i have checked everything.sway bar links. shocks. rear gate. spare tire. I'm about to bring it to the shop. next question I'm getting about 16 miles a gallon is that about right 4.0L. the other question should i use synthetic oil in the motor to prolong its life or is it a waste of money
  • ed04ed04 Member Posts: 9
    hey how are you i also have a 2004 with the same noise. did you find out what the problem is? thank you ED
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    prob the shocks some thing came loose inside would change shocks before anything else
    oil is good have 2000 jgc and has 176000 miles on it and don't use any oil has good oil press and think it is good (i use mobil 1 extended life and change at 7500 miles
  • troymott22troymott22 Member Posts: 1
    its a 99 grand cherokee. i have this rattling noise in the rear end, every time i hit a bump or even a crack in the road it acts up. at first i thought it might be the shocks, so i replaced them, then i thought it was the rear sway bar link, i just replaced them today and the noise is still there, its getting very annoying, any tips...
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    there is a ball joint on top of thr rear axel that could be loose
  • ed04ed04 Member Posts: 9
    ya i notice that looker ok. i think i might take a look at the shocks first. what are everyone views on synthetic vs reg oil
  • jamzusajamzusa Member Posts: 7
    I see you don't have any experience or knowledge of oil.... Most people know synthetic oil is better. I don't know, off hand, the technical in's and out's but it is and if you want to do one better put Dura Lube in. It coats the engine and works that well that one time I put a remanufactured engine in a car and thought I'd put that stuff in right off so it'd last forever.... well, it never broke in as there was NO wear whatsoever so, case in point. Get synthetic oil and put Dura Lube in... You're all set! I promise.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    This person is referring to the balljoint on the triangulated upper rear link at the axle. You can't just look at it and see whether or not it's bad! I guarantee you that is your problem. These things wear out over time. This is very common on WJ's after a few years.
  • ed04ed04 Member Posts: 9
    thanks for the response! can i change that upper triangular ball joint my self? what i mean do i need any special tools
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Most people only KNOW it's better because it SOUNDS better and COSTS more. The truth is that it is better, but it may not necessarily be better for YOU! For example, you decide to start using fully synthetic oil in your motor and you notice it starts easier, it runs cooler, and you could possibly even get one more mile per gallon out of a tank of gas. Then you start to notice that oil spot in your driveway. Your engine may have had a tiny oil leak before that took days to even drip to the ground. You knew about it, but it was very minor. Now it leaks worse than before, and possibly even in other places that didn't leak before! What makes it so good for your engines internals can also seep through tiny gaps in seals and gaskets that your old oil couldn't "fit" through. This difference between your old oil and synthetics is on the molecular level, where it really counts. Fully synthetic oils have a very uniform molecular structure that allow them to flow easily with very little resistance. Conventional oils contain molecules of different sizes and shapes which can't flow as freely. It's like comparing sand to chert. Conventional oils aren't "bad" for your motor, they just break down faster and have to be replaced in order to continue providing protection for your motor. I hope this somehow makes sense to you.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Yes, you should be able to handle it. The only special tool you will need, other than a floor jack, is a "picklefork" type balljoint separator to separate the upper link from the balljoint stud located on top of the differential housing.
  • ed04ed04 Member Posts: 9
    god i love this web site thank you for all the info! i wanted and suv and i hope my 04 jgc brings me alot of luck. one more question guys any way to check that ball joint?
  • ed04ed04 Member Posts: 9
    sorry what i mean is is there a way to tell if its bad
  • ed04ed04 Member Posts: 9
    its a 2004 do you think the rear ball joint is bad its only has 38000
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Check the balljoint boot for damage such as tears or cracks and check for looseness or rough movement. You can do this by either getting someone to push on the rear of the truck from side to side while you watch the joint (of course, the tranny will be in park and the emergency brake will be set, right?!) or put your floor jack under the diff, raise the rear off the ground and move the axle around to see if you can tell (and, of course, you will not be under the truck unless the chassis is supported by jackstands, right?!). Sometimes you might not be able to tell, but if you've already replaced the shocks, that balljoint will be your problem. If you haven't replaced the shocks, remove them and then drive over some bumps and see if you still hear the rattle (be careful if you do this, and don't go far because driving without the shocks is dangerous and it will handle like a wet noodle). Only do this if you haven't replaced your rear shocks and you need to eliminate them as being the culprit! I'm confident, though, that the balljoint is the problem. By the way, you made a good choice with the Grand Cherokee (WJ). I have a '00 GC that I'm dropping an '03 GC motor in in the morning, and the motor swap is not due to the vehicle being a piece of crap, but because the previous owner was an idiot! I also bought my wife a '06 Commander and I just sold my '88 Wrangler (we had a baby) that I built into a hell of a rockcrawler and am currently on the lookout for my next Jeep project/toy. Jeep hasn't let me down and I hope your experience is the same! Anyway, I hope I was helpful to you, so let me know how it turns out. Also, if you have anymore questions let me know. I'll check back tomorrow.
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