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Comments
I have to wait until they get a loaner car in later this week.
Is anyone else having issues with paint chipping off in any area. I heard other complaint in other forums with similar issues other even say that this is happening a lot in the hood of the car and in the same general area of the back taillight.
It would be a good idea for you guys to check your cars for similar issues.
I do have one question that hopefully someone can answer. Since the whole bumper is going to get repainted will that affect the value of my car as I am pretty sure that will come up in carfax reports. The service manager said that it was not due to an accident so that the value would not be affected but I do not know if that is true.
I really dont want it to lose value specially when the issue is not my fault.
I had to wait about 3 weeks for the dpsm (district personnel service manager) to give approval - which he did and Honda paid about $ 700.00 to have it repainted.
The only area that had the problem was the rear tail-lights, so they couldn't say it was from road rash or stone chips like they could if it was in the front of the car, hence partly why I think Honda paid for it.
The car won't lose value from having it repainted due to this issue- but I'd try another dealer, and request that the service manager contact the dpsm to receive authorization from Honda to cover the repaint.
What year / model accord do you have ?
Well i am not going to be charged for anything as they know i only had it for a month. well at least for the bumper i am not since the chipping is inside gap on the bumper part between the bumper and fender. so they did agree is was not normal wear. but the hood he said it was due to road debris and they could not do anything for that.
i still called honda so that they could put the problem down as a complaint but they told me to go to the dealer.
also accordguy0325 if they agree to pay for it should the dpsm still be contact?
I traded my 08 for an 09 V6 a couple months ago, and now Im going to be watching for this like a hawk
Good luck
i have been reading other forums and on other hondas being repainted by the dealers shops and most say that their paint does not match. that is going to suck if my paint doesn't match as i only got the car a month ago. i been looking at my car all day at different angles and in different light conditions and i can assure you that right now the bumper paint perfectly matches the metal paint.
any comments or suggestions
As for the paint matching, you couldn't tell mine was repainted what so ever, it matched perfectly and came out better than I expected.
Question- is your coupe tafetta white ?
also i been talking to other people and everyone says that the value of the car will go down since the bumper will no longer have original factory paint. the manager said i would not but they always lie. no i dont know what to do
On a good note, I don't think it will lessen the value of the car, unless it's a really bad paint job on the bumper. Ask around, and find the best painter you can.
They really screwed up on this!!!
I always do brakes myself. It is easy and you can do the set in less then an hour. Most of the time is prep in getting the car jacked up and wheels off. Changing the pads takes all of 5 minutes. If you have to do the rotors too add 10-15 minutes to each side.
I buy all my Honda parts at Majestic Honda and have them shipped to me. It is always way cheaper then the local dealer even with the shipping and handling charges. ymmv
I've owned Honda's for 30 years and my 2008 is the first one that didn't have a maintenance schedule in the owner's manual. The automatic maintenance reminders on the dashboard don't get it done for me.
Comments.
Second, I assume you meant Accord V6? If its a 4-cyl by chance, it has no timing belt. If it IS a V6, the schedule likely doesn't call for a belt before 60k miles. My grandmother's 2002 I4 Accord calls for a timing belt at 105k, my 1996 I4 Accord needs them every 90k. 30k is just ridiculous, and shows he wants to make money. I'd not go back there.
For me, this is unacceptable. I had a 99 Accord V6 with 120,000 miles that I traded last year, and I drove at times 4000 to 5000 miles before oil change, and the stick would always show full. I own another 06 Accord V6 with 33,000 miles, and the stick never shows any oil consumption. I change the oil at 4000+ miles.
My only hope is that the break in oil is the reason for the consumption, and when I change the oil for the first time the oil usuage will stop. However, from what I've read on this site about others having the same problem I don't know if having the oil change for the first time will solve the problem.
I enjoy the car, the color (green), and the V6 power that it puts out. I don't know if Honda of America considers oil consumption a problem, but for the money that we as consumers pay for car's today, yes, I consider it a major problem.
My point was that a drop in oil could possibly mean you are getting less bypass of other fluids coming into the oil from the rings and seals. Consuming a quart every 6 - 8k mile is far from excessive oil consumption. I change my oil when the maintenance minder reaches 15% oil life. I did the same in my previous 06 EXL V6, although the it would only go about 7k mile before reaching 15%. You don't have to worry about sludge these days if you use a name brand high quality oil. My 07 Chev Avalanche goes more than 10k miles between oil changes. As long as you change the oil prior to reaching 0% oil life, you're covered under warranty. There is a caveat; if you don't drive that much, you need to change out the oil every 12 months.
I don't think the price is high. I think I'm getting my money's worth in other ways.
I use the dealer for peace of mind and because it's convenient for me, and I'm assured they will replace the little gasket at the oil drain plug. The gasket needs to be replaced and not reused as once it's compressed from the first use you can't reuse it and you won't get good seal. Reputable auto repair centers should be aware of this, but if you get an inexperienced technician who doesn't know, you can either have a oil leak or they will over-torque the oil drain plug to insure a good seal with the old gasket, but could strip the threads in the oil pan. The dealer uses a torque wrench when reinstalling the drain plug - does your Big Tire place do so? I also know the dealer will check other things like brakes, etc, and they don't try to sell me on other unneeded stuff like a new air filter, transmission flushes, etc., until they are really needed. My previous Accord never saw any maintenance other than oil changes/tire rotations during the 42k miles I owned it. I do change the air filters myself at 25k miles.
Wish I could say the same. My dealer always comes up with a $400 repair whenever I take my '96 Accord in for service. I take it to my local mechanic who tells me the truth. I'm three grand away from 200k in that car, and have saved about $1,000 in the last 18 months by not doing what my dealer told me was "necessary" to prolong the life of the car. I do maintenance (4,000 miles OCIs, 30k mile air filters, trans service at every 60k, timing belt at every 90k, etc), and repairs when something breaks. The dealer wanted $850 to do the timing belt and water pump; my mechanic (not Big Ten, but a collision and repair shop I've used for 5 years) charged $478 out the door.
I have inspections of the brakes done when I ask them to be done - no charge at Big Ten. The dealer wants the "Gold Package" oil change to inspect brakes, among other things. That's a $79 o/c and tire rotation, and I then have to hope the dealer is telling me the truth (which I've found is the case about half the time). They're supposed to top off all fluids, etc. Last time I raised a stink over my washer fluid still being empty when I got in to leave the dealer. If they leave out something so cheap, what more costly items are they saving their money on by skipping, but charging me for?
Yes, there are other dealers, but none within a half-hour drive of my home, except this one, ten minutes away. My mechanic is a 3 minute drive; Big Ten, 5 minutes.
Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. It appears we just have very different service departments. I didn't intend to get on a rant; my dealer just ticks me off sometimes!
I don't believe they actually use a torque wrench to install the drain plug. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't even look at the brakes. How would you know? Any car will go to 42k miles, with very little maintenance. It's when you get to 142k miles that the lack of maintenance early on will show up.
Well, you can believe what you want. All I know it's stated on my final work order the torque amount used to tighten the drain plug. You're right, I dont' know if they actually check the brakes - but that's what I pay them for. I don't stand over their shoulder watching their every move and I have to trust them to do what they say the will do. They also always call me the following day to make sure everything was done to my satisfaction.
My main reason for posting was not about the oil change, but about the pre-mature rear brake wear issue some have been having. Again, the brake check they perform is on the short list of items for their oil change service, and I have to believe they do actually check them. It's very easy to do since they have the wheels off during rotation.
I guess my doctor could pretend to check my cholesterol level. How would I know??
My front pads are @ 7mm with the rears @ 5mm. Considering I usually get 7,000 to 7,500 miles between oil changes and that will put me close to the 30,000 mile maintenance point which will probably include auto transmission fluid and filter change, brake fluid and rear brakes and the standard oil & tire rotation, I'll be looking @ around $300-400 bill come that time. To date and making the assumption that between now and the end of September nothing goes wrong, my maintenance costs have been about $250.00 for 2 years. I can live with that and could have kept it lower doing some of the maintenance myself, but like others I'll leave this up to the dealer.
I'm currently experimenting with 93 octane in my VCM V6. I decided to try it and settled on running 4 tanks thru to get a good feel for what this brings to the driving experience. On my 3rd tank and will report back soon with my impressions after running all 4 tanks thru. Until then happy motoring to all!
Here's the link to your previous post. The replies follow.
yen_s_liu, "Honda Accord (2008-) Maintenance and Repair" #935, 20 May 2009 6:55 pm.
My dealer (Boardwalk Honda) gives me a free loaner--this time it is an Acura with the rear camera. It was fantastic--it shows if you will fit into a space with lines one the navigation screen. The price of getting the bumper cover fixed once will pay for it.
Looking for installation, service, price, good or bad experiences.
Had mine installed pre-delivery, the list price is obscene, as they charge you for both the camera, camera mount, and installation. I am sure I still paid too much, even though I it for $450 installed. Full price is something like $700+.
Note that this is one accessory for which the car is not prewired. They have to run a cable all the way from the trunk lid, under the right side door thresholds to the dash area. I think it is a nicer finished product that having the little bibs on the bumper for the other backup sensors (which involves removing the bumper cover for installation). All you can see is a little black bump directly centered above the license plate in its recess on the trunk lid.
I like it, but it does give you a wide angle view, so like a convex mirror, it takes a little caution until you get used to how the distances look. Once in a great while a droplet or two of water makes the picture look odd, but generally does not obscure it enough to matter. Surprising the backup lights do provide enough illumination for it during the nighttime. Still need to watch the other mirrors, those pedestrians are everywhere.
I find myself waiting for the nav to boot so I can press ok to the agreement before putting it in reverse. Otherwise, sometimes you take it out of reverse and the screen goes dark until you hit the button to wake up the agreement page again.
So: Headlight flickering issue, faulty wheel bearing and, though I have so far not been affected, reading about serious premature brake wear certainly gives me pause about vaunted Honda quality.
I certainly like my Accord. It's big enough for what I need, gets pretty good gas mileage (22 city, 34 highway) and is fairly inexpensive to insure. I plan on keeping it a while (as evidenced by my previous vehicle), but I wonder what else is going to creep up. :confuse:
The bearing issue is something I haven't heard about, but I have heard about premature rear brake wear since I bought my 2006 model. Well, I'm 51k miles into my brakes; haven't checked the fronts, but the rear have well over 10mm left on them. I'd say they'll go a good 60-70k miles before replacement. I average 30 MPG in this car (4-cyl auto), which shows that while I do have some highway driving, but not more than 50% of my driving.
There is some great information here, but remember to take everything (including what I say - I speak the truth, but experiences vary!) you read with a grain of salt.
Enjoy your car; worrying never did anybody any good!