i can drive my jeep for a long time and all of a suden for no reason at all the guages quit working for about a mile, sometimes 3 or 4 miles before the guages start working again. what do i do?
The most likely problem is with a 13-pin connector that plugs into the instrument cluster. The repair kit from Dodge is about "a buck and a half" installed. Cheaper it you you can cut and solder.
Check your catalytic converter (basically just forward of the muffler, likely under your t-case skid).
If you can hit it with a rubber mallet and it sounds like marbles, chances are you one needing a catalytic converter.
They have issued a recall for older SE's like 97-00 IIRC, that should do a reprogram of your computer for problems and I believe if your catalytic is broken, they'll replace it. But you may need to check with your dealer to be sure.
I have a 2001 wrangler, low beam works fine but when I pull back the lever for high beam, I get the high beams as long as I hold the switch back, but as soon as I release it goes back to low beam. I've been searchibg for a relay to ingauge the high beam I can't find it (is there one?)The lever switch seems to be a momentary that's why I'm assuming there is a relay. Thanks for any ideas.
Pulling the lever back is a momentary bright. It is used to signal (as in passing) and getting attention (if someone is pulling out in front of you). Try pushing the lever forward, it should stay on high beam until you pull it back.
I've had this jeep since new,this style lever does not go forward, it is one pull back and the high beams would engage, then pull again to turn them off(the lever goes back to it's original position after each pull). the problem is that it is no longer staying in high beam when pulled
Hi/low beam operation is a function of the left hand multifunction switch. This looks like a straight forward component replacement.
............................If your Jeep has airbags........ MAKE SURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AND WAIT TWO MINUTES BEFORE WORKING ON ANY DASHBOARD COMPONENTS.
Three screws will remove the plastic cover from the steering collum. Two screws and a wiggle pull procedure will get the turn signal, hi/low... thing lose. Push the new one in...screw it...go for a night ride shake/down. Enjoy your newly installed klicking light blinkin' thingy.
Some people live all their lives and never see a miracle. Now you have seen two in one day(actually one minute). Mac and I both wrong at the same time. Well, me being wrong is not that unusual, but mac24!
I was thinking of getting this to replace the star screws that hold my hardtop on. "Lange Originals Kwick Kit Hardtop Hardware." Anyone have any experience with it or similar kits?
Second problem is getting a "power" tool of some type, ie screwdriver, torque wrench etc. The operative word is is "power." It would let me take the hardtop and bumpers off easier and quicker. The device would natuarally have to be able to fit the star screws without hitting the side of the hardtop. Maybe some type of three position tool. I am not sure a straight up and down screwdriver would fit but have not tried it. Not being a tool guy I don't even know if they make them that would take off the star type bolt. It would have to be powerful because I broke my first ratchet when removing the bumper to put a license place on.
The hitch...it must cost 100 dollars or less. The wife had spoken.
An impact wrench is more than you need for what you describe. I'd suggest a powered screwdriver of some kind.
So many to choose from, here's a few:
Compact screwdriver features 42 in.lbs. of torque and a compact design that gets into tight spaces, but fits comfortably in the palm of your hand. Lithium Ion technology is environmentally friendly and has a slow discharge so it's typically ready when you are. Grab -N -Go charger base keeps the unit ready and easily accessible -contains bit tip storage.
General Features: Cordless Screwdriver Pistol grip Drill Type Power screwdriver Chuck: Quality Standard Motor-Engine: Torque In./lbs. 42 in./lbs. Handles: Main Type Pistol grip Batteries: Number Included 1, integrated Cell Type Lithium-Ion Battery Charger
About $40.
Locks in 2 positions for angle and in-line screwdriving. Variable speed and reversing trigger switch operates at variable speeds of 0-500.
Variable speed range capability On-board bit storage Includes bit Includes battery charger Adjustable torque allows you to match torque to job Motor brake stops engine quickly for precise drilling Handle adjust to match work and for optimum comfort Includes storage case Includes rechargeable battery
Around $100
This cordless screwdriver with case from Craftsman features a 1/4 in. hex collet chuck, a 22-position clutch and an automatic spindle lock. Comes with cradle and charger, two double-ended screwdriver bits, hardware, owners manual, 21 bits - 1/4 in. bit holder, four 25 mm. Phillips (P0, P1, P2, P3), four 25 mm. Slotted (4-6 mm., 6-8 mm., 8-10 mm., 10-12 mm.), four Robertson (R0, R1, R2, R3), four Allen (H3/32 in., H1/8 in., H5/32 in., H3/16 in.) and four Torx ( T15, T20, T25, T30) bits.
4 volt lithium battery pack provides power & longer run time Adjustable 2-position handle allows for greater versatility 1/4 in. hex collet accepts standard nut/screw driver bits Adjustable torque clutch permits selection of proper driving torgue needed for various jobs Automatic spindle lock automatically locks collet to allow manual tightening Integrated worklight provides direct light source to work area LED Charge Indicator illuminates when tool is charging
Around $35
Many, many more, but that should give you a start.
Do all of the above tools handle the star screws or is there some type of attachment I would need? Thanks a lot for your response. I am pushing 60 and have hand problems.
Never thought of that. Do many people opt for that? If not I wonder why they would keep using the star screws when there are easier options on the market.? Thanks for the info. An easy solution is almost always the best.
If you have hand problems, the power tools make complete sense. But if you can handle the wingnut process, it'd be better for your pocketbook.
The ONLY reason I can think of as to why Jeep uses the Torx bits is that quite a few Wrangler owners never remove the hard top. The Torx screw looks a lot cleaner and less obtrusive.
But I've seen people do the wingnut thing and put the bolt in from the top so the wingnut is under the lip of the Jeep's tub, looking just as clean.
Torx attachment would fit on power tools just like they fit on a socket wrench. Sears has a series of Torx bits and I've been using them for a while with no problems.
The wingnut process sounds great. I will try it. I still would like to get a power tool to take off the bumpers etc. I suppose that they would be able to handle that job.?
Hopefully. Some of those frame mounted Torx bits can be a royal pain to loosen due to dirt, grime, rust, etc. I had to use a breaker bar to get mine loose the first time. If the power tool can generate that kind of torque, you should not have a problem.
A friend of mine recently purchased an '06 wrangler and he was curious to how much the fiberglass top weighed with an eye towards taking it off for this spring.I told him I know where to find out. thanks
I have a Jeep Unlimited 2005 with a hardtop. I can take the top off with one friend. The only problem I have encountered is dealing with the length. I am 6'1" so I can reach from front to back, but you have to make sure you ask the right friend with a large enough wingspan (never ask the wife). The top weighs very little imho. If he has a SWB than it should be easy for you two to remove the hardtop with ease.
I busted a brand new torque wrench the first time I took my bumper off..had to take it off to put the license plate on. I am not sure which power screwdriver would have enough power to do that job.
Definitely a two person job..at least. My wife and I took mine off a couple of times but with great difficulty. We are both short and pushing 60. If he can get one or two friends to help him it would be a easier. After I take it off this year I am going to screw the top onto two 2 by 4's to make sure it stays straight and keep it covered.
Looks like something I need but I do not have a garage. I guess I could just leave it hanging in the driveway or lower it onto a couple of 2 by 4's. What do you think?
First off i have a 98 wrangler: my hot/cold slider (to control the temperature, left is cold, right is hot) will only go halfway and wont go any farther right towards the hot, it stops and seems jammed. It gets to where the blue meets the red and wont go any farther. I tried wd40, and i even pulled it out of the dash and checked to see if there were any crimped or messed up wires and everything looks fine, but it still wont go towards the hot. any help would be appreciated on how to fix this, thanks
I had a similiar problem, but I had a lot of wires in the bezel underneath (I added several switches and moved my CB). Those cables were causing it to get stuck. I rearranged em and put it back in, no problems.
If you remove it and try to move the slider and it won't go, then the door that the slider controls sounds to me like it is stuck.
A Factory Service Manual can help you track that down.
hi there hope your problem worked out. i have one of my own, and i don't know much about doing it yourself thing, advice any one. i have a TJ Se 97 - 2.5ltr - standard. it was parked for a couple of months during this winter. now when i try to start it, it will start when i try to jump start it, but would not other wise, tried replacing the battery. even with the new battery, the panel lights up but the ignition does not tick. when i get it started by giving it a jump, it runs fine, but the battery does not get charged. i am realtivey new to the maintaining and repair thing. got a couple of my buddies who are truckers to take a look but they couldn't figure out what's wrong. please advice. thanks peace
It doesn't happen often, but you may have a defective new battery. Check all the cable connections to make sure they are free of corrosion and are tight both on the battery and to the starter, engine, and body. Sometimes an extra boost of current such as when you jump it will overcome a bad connection. A bad alternator or charging problem would not effect the ability of the Jeep to start if it has a good battery.
Honestly, I think you may have some bad cables at the battery. If it will start, but only with a jump, I'm thinking the battery cables are corroded or worn enough to keep enough juice from a single battery. Check your terminals and the wire right behind them, along with the rest of the connections to the starter setup. That is a common place for wire rot (don't ask how I know). Replacing the cables to the starter shouldn't be that big of a job and should be doable fairly quickly (less than an hour or so).
Hopefully Mac will chime in here too, but that it was it sounds like to me. -Paul
Can't really add anything to what's been said already. While there is an outside possibility that the new battery is bad, it's far more likely that the battery cables are at fault. It's a cheap and easy fix.
JEEP JUMP... You did not say where and how your Jeep was stored over the winter. Was it inside, outside, tarped out behind the barn? All these will have an effect on storage/damage done. ???
Doesn't really alter the diagnosis though. Starts with a jump but doesn't charge. New battery fitted, but still needs a jump and still doesn't charge. Either both batteries are faulty or the cable to battery connection is bad. Whether the problem is caused by corrosion, vermin, or the supernatural, changing the battery cable s would still be a good next step.
I've noticed this problem on many sites all across the web. My 1997 Jeep Wrangler IL6, m.t, 4x4; when given gas, hesitates. I ran the codes and replaced MAP sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor. This improved the hesitation but did not eliminate it. I swapped out new plugs, rotor, and cap. (Old plugs had signs that engine was running rich) I checked for intake issues from the filter to intake manifold, all is A-OK. A ran a injector cleaner through the system. I used to get 18-20 mpg, I am now down to 10. Blowing black smoke out of the exhaust. Worried that my new catback and hedman header are gonna get destroyed as I also now get back fire.
Can an 02 sensor be to blame?
Thank you ahead of time. The weather is warming up and looking forward to getting out on the trails.
thnx, for reply. Yeah, way rich! LoL! If i was looking for 10mpg, I'd be running a Lambo on 33's. That would be a sight!
I ran codes again.
This is what popped up in order.
12* Battery Disconnect / Direct battery input to the PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
24** Throttle Position Sensor Voltage High (or Low); or TPS Voltage Does Not Agree With MAP / Throttle position sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor
15** No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal / No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions
24** Again! LOL
14** MAP Sensor Voltage Too High (or Too Low); or No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor / MAP sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or 5 Volt output to MAP sensor open
13** No Change in MAP From Start to Run / No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmospheric) pressure reading from start-up
55* Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine Lamp (MIL)
____________________
I did replace both MAP and TPS before I posted original message. So now I guess it's off to a professional!
If anyone has any insight into this please continue post. If I get this resolved, I will post what the mechanics did! Thank you and good Jeeping to all!
I think that the lack of a VSS signal is playing a part here. It sounds like an intermittent VSS problem though, as the engine won't idle if the signal is completely missing. The PCM requires road speed information, which it correlates with engine speed, throttle position, O² sensor input etc. to determine fueling requirements. Also, VSS data is used when deaccelerating so that the IAC can be used to generate correct MAP conditions. That could be why the PCM is seeing the MAP data as incorrect and is throwing the MAP codes.
The seat pivot point is a bar that passes through two brackets with holes in them, the bar being retained with two 'R' clips. To remove the seat you first remove the 'R' clips then slide the seat to one side until the bar comes out of one of the brackets. Slide it the other way to free it from the other bracket, then lift it out. It's easiest to perform the whole operation from the rear.
Just ordered a Tire Cover for my Jeep. Do they just slip over the spare without taking the tire off the back or do I have to take the tire off to put it on properly? Come to think of it..if I have to remove the lug nuts to take the tire off I would not be able to put the cover on and put the lug nuts back on...Its early here.:) TIA
You failed to specify if the cover is the kind that you push on with your thumbs or if it is the kind that you pound on with a hammer. Did you just buy one? They usually come as a set of four, five if you want to cover your spare. I think they get pretty dirty if you drive on them. Good luck.
If it is the flexible type, they generally come with an elastic band in the back. It looks kind of like a shower cap (Sorry, that is the best description I could come up with). You just push this band over the tire and it holds the cover in place.
Remembering a previous post that you sometimes get finger trouble these days, you'll find that it's easiest fitted and removed while warm, preferably in direct sunlight, as the vinyl material gets less flexible when the temperature drops.
In order to remain attached at speed it has to be snug fit, hence it doesn't just snap on, it has to worked into place. If the weather won't play ball then a hair dryer will probably do the trick.
Comments
The repair kit from Dodge is about "a buck and a half" installed.
Cheaper it you you can cut and solder.
If you can hit it with a rubber mallet and it sounds like marbles, chances are you one needing a catalytic converter.
They have issued a recall for older SE's like 97-00 IIRC, that should do a reprogram of your computer for problems and I believe if your catalytic is broken, they'll replace it. But you may need to check with your dealer to be sure.
-Paul
I've been searchibg for a relay to ingauge the high beam I can't find it (is there one?)The lever switch seems to be a momentary that's why I'm assuming there is a relay. Thanks for any ideas.
Terry
Tim
This looks like a straight forward component replacement.
............................If your Jeep has airbags........
MAKE SURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AND WAIT TWO MINUTES BEFORE WORKING ON ANY DASHBOARD COMPONENTS.
Three screws will remove the plastic cover from the steering collum.
Two screws and a wiggle pull procedure will get the turn signal, hi/low... thing lose.
Push the new one in...screw it...go for a night ride shake/down.
Enjoy your newly installed klicking light blinkin' thingy.
Terry
got a Haynes looked over the wire diagram, has to be the switch
I'll let you know
Tim
Second problem is getting a "power" tool of some type, ie screwdriver, torque wrench etc. The operative word is is "power." It would let me take the hardtop and bumpers off easier and quicker. The device would natuarally have to be able to fit the star screws without hitting the side of the hardtop. Maybe some type of three position tool. I am not sure a straight up and down screwdriver would fit but have not tried it. Not being a tool guy I don't even know if they make them that would take off the star type bolt. It would have to be powerful because I broke my first ratchet when removing the bumper to put a license place on.
The hitch...it must cost 100 dollars or less. The wife had spoken.
So many to choose from, here's a few:
Compact screwdriver features 42 in.lbs. of torque and a compact design that gets into tight spaces, but fits comfortably in the palm of your hand. Lithium Ion technology is environmentally friendly and has a slow discharge so it's typically ready when you are. Grab -N -Go charger base keeps the unit ready and easily accessible -contains bit tip storage.
General Features:
Cordless Screwdriver Pistol grip Drill Type Power screwdriver Chuck:
Quality Standard Motor-Engine:
Torque In./lbs. 42 in./lbs. Handles:
Main Type Pistol grip Batteries:
Number Included 1, integrated Cell Type Lithium-Ion Battery Charger
About $40.
Locks in 2 positions for angle and in-line screwdriving. Variable speed and reversing trigger switch operates at variable speeds of 0-500.
Variable speed range capability
On-board bit storage
Includes bit
Includes battery charger
Adjustable torque allows you to match torque to job
Motor brake stops engine quickly for precise drilling
Handle adjust to match work and for optimum comfort
Includes storage case
Includes rechargeable battery
Around $100
This cordless screwdriver with case from Craftsman features a 1/4 in. hex collet chuck, a 22-position clutch and an automatic spindle lock. Comes with cradle and charger, two double-ended screwdriver bits, hardware, owners manual, 21 bits - 1/4 in. bit holder, four 25 mm. Phillips (P0, P1, P2, P3), four 25 mm. Slotted (4-6 mm., 6-8 mm., 8-10 mm., 10-12 mm.), four Robertson (R0, R1, R2, R3), four Allen (H3/32 in., H1/8 in., H5/32 in., H3/16 in.) and four Torx ( T15, T20, T25, T30) bits.
4 volt lithium battery pack provides power & longer run time
Adjustable 2-position handle allows for greater versatility
1/4 in. hex collet accepts standard nut/screw driver bits
Adjustable torque clutch permits selection of proper driving torgue needed for various jobs
Automatic spindle lock automatically locks collet to allow manual tightening
Integrated worklight provides direct light source to work area
LED Charge Indicator illuminates when tool is charging
Around $35
Many, many more, but that should give you a start.
Why go for a high-cost solution when about $5.00 in parts from Lowes will solve the same problem?
-Paul
To answer the question, yes, they handle the bits for Torx as well as regular screw heads and bolt heads.
Bolts, wingnuts and big washers would be much cheaper and simpler.
The ONLY reason I can think of as to why Jeep uses the Torx bits is that quite a few Wrangler owners never remove the hard top. The Torx screw looks a lot cleaner and less obtrusive.
But I've seen people do the wingnut thing and put the bolt in from the top so the wingnut is under the lip of the Jeep's tub, looking just as clean.
Torx attachment would fit on power tools just like they fit on a socket wrench. Sears has a series of Torx bits and I've been using them for a while with no problems.
-Paul
-Paul
thanks
I am not sure which power screwdriver would have enough power to do that job.
This looks like the cool tool for this job. http://www.truckstuffusa.com/hoistatop.html
Cheaper that an ER visit. Or repairing a broken top.
Bring out PBR's.
For big stubborn nuts and bolts you need an impact wrench. Available as either pneumatic or electric (corded and cordless). Lots of choice under $100.
-zach
If you remove it and try to move the slider and it won't go, then the door that the slider controls sounds to me like it is stuck.
A Factory Service Manual can help you track that down.
-Paul
i have a TJ Se 97 - 2.5ltr - standard.
it was parked for a couple of months during this winter. now when i try to start it, it will start when i try to jump start it, but would not other wise, tried replacing the battery. even with the new battery, the panel lights up but the ignition does not tick. when i get it started by giving it a jump, it runs fine, but the battery does not get charged. i am realtivey new to the maintaining and repair thing. got a couple of my buddies who are truckers to take a look but they couldn't figure out what's wrong.
please advice.
thanks
peace
Hopefully Mac will chime in here too, but that it was it sounds like to me.
-Paul
You did not say where and how your Jeep was stored over the winter.
Was it inside, outside, tarped out behind the barn?
All these will have an effect on storage/damage done.
???
-Paul
I think you are correct.
I missed the charging issue.
I was thinking more along the line of a humidity problem.
Can an 02 sensor be to blame?
Thank you ahead of time. The weather is warming up and looking forward to getting out on the trails.
Damion
Certainly it could. Have you checked for codes? Sounds like you are running way rich.
I ran codes again.
This is what popped up in order.
12* Battery Disconnect / Direct battery input to the PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
24** Throttle Position Sensor Voltage High (or Low); or TPS Voltage Does Not Agree With MAP / Throttle position sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor
15** No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal / No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions
24** Again! LOL
14** MAP Sensor Voltage Too High (or Too Low); or No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor / MAP sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or 5 Volt output to MAP sensor open
13** No Change in MAP From Start to Run / No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmospheric) pressure reading from start-up
55* Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine Lamp (MIL)
____________________
I did replace both MAP and TPS before I posted original message. So now I guess it's off to a professional!
If anyone has any insight into this please continue post. If I get this resolved, I will post what the mechanics did! Thank you and good Jeeping to all!
D
well, it's off to a professional
Does anyone have any tips?? Thank you for taking the time !
Thanks again!
TIA
Did you just buy one?
They usually come as a set of four, five if you want to cover your spare.
I think they get pretty dirty if you drive on them.
Good luck.
If it is the flexible type, they generally come with an elastic band in the back. It looks kind of like a shower cap (Sorry, that is the best description I could come up with). You just push this band over the tire and it holds the cover in place.
Terry
In order to remain attached at speed it has to be snug fit, hence it doesn't just snap on, it has to worked into place. If the weather won't play ball then a hair dryer will probably do the trick.