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Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi Engine Failure



  • kamper1kamper1 Posts: 1
    How did you get a new motor from Dodge for a 2004 Durango
  • These are not new motors. They are remanufactured motors, broken motors are sent to Chrysler they rebuild them and send them to the dealer. I had to go to a dealer to get a motor.
  • jpatinojpatino Posts: 1
    Thanks for the info... I just got a call from the Dealer and I also have a whole in the engine block!!
  • mkosakmkosak Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Hemi and cylinder #3 started reporting a problem.

    While being tested at the service shop the engine blew a hole in the side of the block

    Does anyone know if Chrysler is doing anything about this?
  • Sorry but all dodge does is blame the customer for not taking care or their piece of junk. Nothing has been done to date. Mine blew 2 years ago. Cost me over 5k to fix and then sell the pile. The only thing we can do is NEVER purchase their products again EVER! THey have catigorially deined any claim relating to this 10 + year old car with an egine made out of scrap metal. They got away with selling us the garbage product. Not one consumer group has gone to bat either.
  • All dealership are in a mandated "Deny all knowledge" mode.
    This issue of spontaneous rod failure is WELL KNOWN in early hemis but if you go to a dealership they will claim they NEVER HEARD of such a thing even when they have likely seen several hemi with big holes in them in their shop.

    So if the truck it itself is paid for an still in nice shape; I would say source a used low mileage hemi (preferable 2005 and later) and have it installed. If you rather not invest a bunch of money in; put it on Craigslist for $3500 or something and unload it.
  • kenkelkenkel Posts: 1
    As another victim of the Durango 2004 hemi motor failure I'd like to know what others are doing about getting rid of their vehicle. Is there much of a salvage value? Like many of you we experienced problems in rain or after the car wash but had never heard of this issue. I don't plan on replacing the motor so I guess I need suggestions on what to do next. I do plan on following up with Chrysler and using social media to get the word about this situation out there. I encourage others with Facebook or Twitter to help me start a battle against this giant corporation.
  • My dealer offered me $3000 as an "as is" trade in towards another Dodge from him. I took a pass..........I will NEVER buy another Dogde . I got $2800 from a junk yard, the book value was between 10-12K, my 04' only had 76, 400 miles on it when it threw its rod and DODGE did NOTHING but charge me more money to have the ingine inspected and get it towed to one of "their" mechanics. My engine was very well taken care of, it's their product that was garbage.
  • Last year Chrysler issued a service bulletin #S1209000016 addressing the catastrophic engine failure. If this occurs they admit due to the poor design of the air intake manifold, "...if piston, cylinder bore, valve or valve seat failure occurs the manifold must be replaced..." NOT reused or it will void the warranty on the remanufactured engine core.
    I've just finished a six month battle with a SC dealership, trying to get my credit card company to chargeback the $7,400 repair. They used the old manifold in replacing the 5.7L hemi. I was not successful. The only way is to sue the dealership for negligence. This of course is impossible for a working guy. The only way is to never buy a Chrysler product again. Remember your tax dollars were used to bail this company out.
  • Did anyone file a complaint with the gov? I keep reading the same story over & over & you need to file a complaint! Here is my original post:
    Jan 11, 2013 (12:44 pm)
    My motor just blew. My mechanic said he had never seen anything like it before. It was the #8 rod. If this happened to you, you need to file a complaint at (888)327-4236 You will need your vin#.

    I keep reading the same complaint so I'm posting to hopefully get some people calling in to the government. So far they have lodge 32 complaints on this matter. I asked what is the magic number & there is none. When they notice a pattern they will investigate.

    If there are enough complaints the gov will issue a recall & will make them reimburse us.
  • 4aqueen4aqueen Posts: 1
    On August 15, 2013 i drove 2004 my Dodge Durango ,5.7 lit Hemi to work parked it all day and when i got in started the engine it cranked over with no problem , no struggle or nothing then it mysteriously cut off, i tried to start it again it would not turn over it was sounding like a dead battery problem, so i asked some one for a jump it still would not start I called my road side assistance it was towed to a shop because of the no crank symptoms it was said that it may be the alternator, but an attempt to do a diagnostic was done to make sure they could not perform a full diagnostic because the engine had seized, this shop does not do major engine repair so i took it to a shop that does ,they did a no crank no start check on it and it was determined that this engine was finished but not only that i was told that they can not fix the car either because of one or the two reasons either it is true this engine has bolts that they can't get off only the dealership can or after researching for another engine for this vehicle they found out just as well as i did , that this beautiful high performance vehicle is actually a piece of garbage emphasized 10 times, I've only had my car 1 year and 8 months, 100,225 miles on and it absolutely showed no signs of any engine problems or any other major problems and out of no where i got a car that I am still paying on that does not run, too much money. something needs to be done. i also have a co-worker who says she has a friend who is going through the same thing with hers
  • jasonujasonu Posts: 1
    I have the same- 2003 5.7L hemi, just over 80,000m- reported problem 0300 and 0300. I replaced all electrical and ignition parts- everything relating to cylinder #3. Brought it to a shop- the mechanic "diagnosed" the issue as the #3 injector. Funny, that's the only injector I replaced. They still got paid, of course. The truck just limped home today, just barely. This is the first I've heard of any problems like these. I'm new to this forum, and I see that it is mostly Durangos- are you aware of any fix for this? I hope to avoid blowing anything.

    Thanks - J
  • You hemi engine failure was the typical rod fatigue.
    NOW; I do not know if they have pulled the pan off the engine an examined the rods.
    LIKELY one is bent that caused the engine to seize.
    This is very bad; but it can be WORSE. Because normally the the bent rod breaks and knocks a hole in the side of the block. If you can get this engine in the hands of a competent mechanic; replacement of the rod/piston will likely fix this issue. Last time I checked the rod/piston combo was about $60 each. x8 that is $480. So in this case the hemi is fixable and should be reliable from here on. IF the engine "throws" the rod; kiss the whole thing goodbye.
  • irishfrase54irishfrase54 Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    I have a 2004 durango with the hemi. Drove it around town and everything was fine. I parked it for two weeks while out of town for business. Came back and it would not start. I towed it to my mechanic and the shop was stumped. He asked me if someone had taken it but I had the only keys. Just put in a refurb engine. Core was damaged so that was extra. I took great care of that car and even the shop manager said my car was in great condition. It's sad that dodge won't do anything to help. I am having my attorney get involved to try and recoup some of my money.
  • We have 2 2005 Dodge Durango suv's. what a pain it is to own. A person, I believe I read on here, showed me how to fix my problem which is the same thing most Dodge Durango owners have. Go out to the truck and turn the water hose on. Put hose on windshield in the middle. Open hood and see where water goes. It runs directly on spark plugs! So, first things first, buy clear silicone and apply to the cowl( it the guard just under the windshield). We applied it to the cowl where it hit the windshield. Then apply to all the lil plastic fasteners they are round and make sure you cover the one that let's water run on spark plugs. Then buy new spark plugs, when you remove the coil note that some are wet. Dry them off as well as the spark plug hole. Do this to all the plugs. It fixed out problems. Design flaw by Dodge. I hope this helps.
  • i hope this helps.I will cap the 1st letter of a sentence, dont expect puncuation marks etc..My 2000 durango was running like a plug was fouled.I put all new plugs.didnt help.I ended up replacing the coils for each plug, fuel pump, power steering switch, r and l bank o2 sensors, the ones on the catalytic converters.none helped.Checked all grounds.. i replaced the steering switch, cuz i was told to check the switch to see if it had fluid in it. what happens is the switch leaks and fluid passes thru the wires, and shorted out the o2 sensors..Thats my bro-n-law unplugs the computer, and all kinds of fluid in durango ran sooo baaad, i could barely pull out of the diveway. So my bro-n-law does research on PC, calls says switch theauto shutoff relay with the wiper relay, cuz they were the same.started it, and it ran almost perfect. It seems all sensors are ran thru it, .try switching it.It may not solve your problem, but it might. I b praying for you..good luck..
  • Hello,
    I am trying to figure what is wrong with my Durango. The issue I am having is that something is killing my battery. I think it is electrical because I have a brand new battery, alternator and the starter has been replaced too. But I noticed that when I turn my car off that the radio would stay on. So I started taking the face off the radio. And at first that solved the issue. But now that doesn't work. So I need help to try and figure it out. I have also noticed that my radio panel stays hot when the car is on. What do I do?
  • As far as I know the radio will stay on and playing for several minutes but should go off as soon as you open the door. If it does that; the radio is fine.

    If something will kill a fully charged battery overnight this has to be a large current drain on the order of seveal amps. A competent technician should be able to track the problem down.
    If there are any aftermarket accessories install (like a car amp or something) I would check that kind of thing first.
    Check for relays (in the relay bank) that are could be stuck in the on position. Monitor the current drain on the battery (very small is normal; keeps the clock going, etc). And pull one relay at a time and see if the current drain disappears. That will give you an what circuit the problem is in.
  • Pretty much the same thing happened to me. Also, started hearing a "click-click-click" noise when I turned off the engine like an electrical relay was staying open. Turns out that water from rain storms or melting snow was getting into my fuse box which was corroding the contacts and shorting everything out. Check your fuse box which on the interior wall by the driver's left knee. Take off the face plate and see if you can feel any moisture either on the fuse box itself or on the carpeting at the bottom of the box. You have four drains in your sun roof and if water is getting in, that's most likely where it's coming from. the water goes into the channels and then into the drains ever when your sunroof is closed.
  • Our valve spring broke at 100k in number 8. it took them a week to find it. No code.They said the old jeeps did that a lot but they had never had a Durango do it. your are the first person we have heard that had the same problem
  • How can a rod get bent sitting still? I have a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 Hemi. Well maintained, runs great, no problems. Parked it yesterday and went out the next morning and it wouldn't turn over. The starter bendix kicks into the teeth on the flex plate, but it's like the motor is siezed. I have not tried turning the crank with a wrench back and forth to see if the starter or the timing chain are wedged, but even with the battery fully charged, the starter hits hard and nothing. If there is a bent rod, I'd sure like to know how it got that way without any warnings or anything.
  • There is a debate on how this actually happens. But the fact is much of these failures happen or are preceded by a no-start on a cold engine.
    This happened in the cause of our '04 Durango a couple days before it slung a rod.
    Many believe water is getting into the cylinder via a KNOWN defect in the plastic intake.
    Usually you will experience rough running and a cylinder misfire code when it rains or in the car wash etc. The factory plastic cowl is known to dump water directly on top of the engine.
    Normally this wouldn't harm anything, but if the intake is leaking it will suck water directly into a cylinder; it will flash steam in the hot engine and on compression the rod cannot hold up to this kind of cylinder pressure and can damage the rod.
    If your Durango gets rained on and the intake leak is present, water can run directly into the cylinder so the engine hydrolock on startup. The starter motor produces tremendous torque can literally bend a rod. When the engines runs, the rod breaks, kiss it goodbye.
    The weak connecting rods, cracking intake manifolds and leaky cowl are all KNOWN ISSUES with Chrysler and they did nothing to fix them or knowledge responsibility.
    Keep in mind with the 04 Durango was produced Chrysler was owned by Daimler Chrysler.
    Daimler was intent on running Chrysler into the ground and pillaging Chrysler assets to prop up it's own Mercedes brand that was languishing because of poor quality.
    The 5.7L Hemi design is brilliant. A real triumph in power and efficiency. The same can be said for many of the new ".7" design engines of this era. All made a lot of power with small displacement with good fuel economy.
    But cost cutting drove quality down and all these engines suffered. The worst being the 2.7L v6 powering many of the mid size cars. The lower end of the engine isn't designed with enough "beef" to hold up to poor quality gasoline (any gas with ethanol). So at 100K miles these engines are usually done.
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Posts: 13
    edited October 2013
    The Durango does sit outside and last night there was very heavy rain with localized flooding. To test the hydrolock theory, I could pull the plugs and try turning the motor over. If it rotates, the water would be pumped from the cylinder and indicate the leaking intake as you suggest. If it still fails to rotate, something else is mechanically blocking the engine's rods, valves or pistons. I did check for any codes (ODB) that might indicate low voltage, cam position sensor error or other electrical failures like misfires, etc. and nothing.
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Posts: 13
    edited October 2013
    Just an update; After pulling all the cowlings and the coil & plug wire tray from the intake manifold, I found a lot of water underneath in amost every pocket, as well as the appearance of a rather large mouse nest. I can easily see how, if that water froze any time over the past 9 years, it could crack the plastic. I was able to remove the front 4 plugs, but the rear 4 will be difficult. I will finish removing them this evening. I tried turning the crank manually with a wrench and was able to turn it backwards, but then when going forwards again, it stopped at the same point. It could still be hydrolock in one of the remaining 4 cylinders or still be a rod, timing chain, valve or something else mechanical at this point. Once all the plugs are removed, I'll know better what I'm dealing with.
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Posts: 49
    edited October 2013
    Good work; but likely the damage may already be done.

    If there is water in the engine the effect is one of the piston hit a "brick" on the compression stroke. This kind of stress will usually weaken the rod.
    Ours quit 2 days after a no-start morning. It rained that night if I recall.

    If indeed you do have a bent rod (check the valvetrain first just in case) it is possible to fix it.
    The last time I checked a replacement OEM rod/piston was $60 each.
    It is possible to fix this without the expensive of a replacement engine.

    The common sequence of events in these failures looks like this usually.

    Won't start-
    After a while starts and then immediately throws a rod, hole in the block. Engine is scrap
    Won't start-
    After a while starts and seems to run fine. Short time thereafter throws a rod, hole in block. Engine is scrap.
  • The truck does have 140K miles on it, so the rods could have weakened over the years, but still have doubts that just the starter could put that much additional stress on them. Regardless, I may just go the full route to keep the block intact. Can the connecting rods be replaced with the engine in the car, simply by lowering the pan?
  • You would have to extract the pistons from the top after removing the heads. I do not think there is enough room to remove the heads while it is still in the car.
    BUT, removing the engine, repairing it and re-installing it is cheaper than removing, replacing, installing.
    Street price on a running used engine is usually $1500-3000.
  • No need to remove the pistons through the cylinder tops if all you are removing are the Rods. Connecting Rods can be removed from the crank and from the pistons at the wrist pins. The other issue is, if removal of the heads are required, you'll need a full gasket kit, new timing chains & grears, along with other assorted gaskets and parts. It might be easier (labor costs) to just replace the short block, which may be too much for the value of the truck.
  • From what I have seen it is impossible to remove the rod/piston without removing the crank first.
    The lower end is pretty narrow, the crank fits into the journals with little clearance to spare.
    To remove the crank you have to unbolt it from the flex plate and you cannot get to that unless you remove the transmission.
    The piston will have to come out the top if you are to attempt this in vehicle.
  • Just an update, I was able to remove the remaining 4 plugs and when I turned the motor over with a wrench, water sprayed from the rear two cylinders on the right bank, so deffinitly hydrolock. I visually inspected the intake and found the two center bolts on the right side (in pockets where water collected) had their tops rusted completely off, allowing the water to come in along their shanks and possibly along the edge between the manifold and the head. I applied gasket seal to all three areas generously and reassembled everything with new parts. She runs great again. BTW, I also took silicone to the wiper tray to prevent water from coming on the manifold in the future. I don't believe the starter has sufficient power to put any undo stress on the connecting rods, so will not be bothering with the bottom end. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
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