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I am really disappointed with the ride of my Lexus RX350. It is the bumpiest, jolting ride. I previously had an RX330 which was a much smoother ride. Does anyone else see this problem? Can anything be done?
I had the front bumper repaired last January and so far it is ok. I am not sure what they did but according to what the problem was, they probably replaced some of the clips that hold the bumpers to the front fenders. I had the work done at Superstition Springs Lexus in Mesa AZ. No other problems yet. Regards, Jim
Couple days ago, my 2010 RX350 check engine light came on and displayed a message "Check AWD System". I brought it in and service consultant said he has never seen such message before.
After whatever tests they do, they found error code "P0445 - Gross Leak". And the cause was the fuel cap was not securely tighten.
Should I believe them that all these was caused by untighten fuel cap? Could they have reset the message and blame on something because they can't figure out the problem? The message didn't came after we brought gas or the next day, but 2 days later.
Anyone has seen similar problem and/or message? Any inputs or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Yes you can get a check engine light on if your gas cap is not tighten correctly. I have had this twice now. I have an OBD II analyzer and after connecting it it told me precisely that error. The message about the AWD is weird though.
Had to replace my AC fan as cabin noise was intermittent under the dash Took a few trips to diagnose what the noise under the dash was; it was not a consitant noise. Wanted to post for others who hear noises inside the cabin. Dealer in Plano tx was first class in dealing with a few trips to try to pin this down, however had been sharing other rx350's do not have a problem history on this.
Hi, jlotoo. Do you have the 18-inch wheels or the 19-inch wheels? I have the 19-inch wheels on my 2010 RX, and as I was coming from an '07 RX, I felt the ride was quite bumpy and not as smooth as the '07. Well, a couple of weeks ago, I drove a loaner RX with the 18-inch wheels, and it felt smoother and less bumpy. So, although the 18's may not look as nice as the 19's, they seem to ride better. I bet the 18's would look good in the chrome finish
Friend of mine has a 2010 RX350. Almost had a horrible crash when his RX accelerated by itself on the highway. Brakes completely failed...threw it in neutral and he was ok. Car was towed away. Tow truck driver claimed this was the 10th time he has seen this...with this exact car. This just happend today. I have the exact same car. And now i am scared to death to drive it. We both have 12-16 months left on our 3 year leases. How can we get out of the lease? Lexus will say the cars are fine until there is an official recall. Put this situation into google and you can read about the hundreds of others this has happened to...????? And i think i read somewhere that all 2011 RX's have the brake override system.....can i get this added to my RX? Thanks.
If hundreds of others have had both the braking systems fail and the vehicle accelerate by themselves out of control at the same time, why is the NHTSA not involved? Did you get the Highway Patrol on the scene to take a report when this happened to you?
Brakes are not by-wire, they have hydraulic lines that are independent from the throttle. If you've ever bled the fluid from the lines you'll know what I mean.
So he's saying both the throttle-by-wire and hydraulic brakes failed at the same exact time, by pure coincidence?
I'd believe reduced braking, but not complete failure.
Due to the need for VDIM (Trac/VSC/ABS/EBD/etc) to have the ability to close off brake fluid pressure to any or all wheels this is not entirely impossible.
One of the reasons, causes, for which I have been "campaigning" for ONLY rear braking for moderate braking levels as a way to help "stabilize" the vehicle on marginal roadbed surfaces. Only open the front brake pressure control manifolds for brake pressure above a certain level or if the rear wheels indicate imminent lockup.
As of 2010 a new F/awd system(***) was adopted for the RX350 and it sounds as if the service tech was not up to speed on this matter.
A loose gas cap will almost always result in a CEL and by default a VSC fault.
Just a guess but it seems to me that a Check AWD system would most likely result from a poor or imtermittent electrical connection to the rear drive clutch control solenoid.
There is an off-chance that the rear drive clutch itsself failed to fully engage during low speed acceleration even with a full voltage aplication. That would be detectable by the system "monitor" if you developed some level, even minor level, of left or right front wheelspin/slip without an appropriate left or right wheelspin/slip at the rear.
Remember any indication of such an instance...?
*** First adopted in the US by Ford for the (2005-7[?]) Escape/Mariner and then more recently by Toyota with the introduction of the new Sienna.
2012 Rx 350 non Navi version. The seat movement of the "easy exit" can be disabled through customization features, but driving wheel still moves down when existing the vehicle. Is there a way to disable this feature through personalization settings? Or I have to go to the dealer's place? Thanks.
To disable the steering wheel movement, you have to take the car in. The dealer will take care of it in few minutes. Personalization settings will give you only limited access to same settings.
I was driving along at about 35 mph when I saw some snowy patches ahead and so switched the car into Snow mode (this is the ECT mode that you can activate using buttons on the steering wheel). I have the AWD version. As soon as I did that, the car noticeably slowed down to about 30 mph - almost as if I had tapped the brakes. Has anyone experienced this and is it normal? Thanks in advance.
Snow mode might not necessarily be for driving in the snow (at least, not at speed)..
It might keep the transmission in 2nd gear, when starting from rest (to avoid slippage), along with some other changes...
Most AWD vehicles work just fine in snow, when left in normal drive.. Unless you have extremely adverse conditions, I wouldn't mess with it, especially while under way...
I'd also check the owner's manual, to see what is says about snow mode..
Since the advent of DBW throttles many vehicles with "snow" mode automatically change the response "curve", gain, of the throttle plate position in response to the gas pedal position.
You initially had the gas pedal depressed enough to get 35MPH but then you switched to the "lower gain", shallower throttle response curve, snow mode, and therefore needed a deeper depression to attain, sustain, the same roadspeed.
Got my 2012 RX350 in early Feb. Now it has 400miles on it. Yesterday I was driving back home from work. I remember there was a moment when I lifted my foot on the gas pedal trying to reduce the gas and slow the vehicle down a little due to the traffic, I noticed the tachometer surged up to 5k for less than a second and dropped. Didn't remember if the car accelerated or not. Anyone have user experience like this? Hopefully it was only my illusion!
It sounds as if you may have been accelerating, even ever so slightly, just prior to lifting the accelerator pedal.
Since about '08 the engine/transaxle control ECU firmware monitors the rate at which you lift pressure from the gas pedal. A quick/sharp lift and the system will "think" you wish to make use of engine compression braking. Slow and easy and it will "think" you wish to enter "cruise" mode and upshift accordingly. In the previous case the ECU would not normally command a downshift unless the period of costdown is extended and the ECU puts the system in FULL fuel cut coastdown mode.
The purpose in all this is to accommodate the situation wherein you want a brief period of engine compression braking followed quickly by a return to acceleration. Therefore DO NOT wish an upshift (as if entering cruise) and thereby incur the 1-2 second downshift delay when you relatively soon, or even quickly, re-apply pressure to the accelerator.
Has any one noticed that the sat radio sounds completely different from the regular radio, and not in a good way?
I have owed over 4 cars now with factory installed sat radios and have a old personal portable sat radio, none of them have sounded like this.
My 2012 RX has the nav and premium sound. The regular FM sounds great. It is clear, loud, good sound quality, The CD sounds great, as does the USB.
The Sat though is soft even on the highest setting and it does not sound like it is in stereo. The sound is flat so much so that I refuse to listen to it. Only talk radio sounds good on it.
I checked all the settings bass, mid, dsp ect.. all the same.
I even brought it back to my dealer twice and they said it sounds like every other RX.
Well I had an es for a loaner while they looked in to this and it sounded great!
My reply to them was so every SAT radio in an RX sounds like S@#T!
Hi for me it was the quality reputation but I definitely do not like the way the rx drives. Not like a german car it takes way more effort. Dealers say the car is designed to follow crown of road which basically means you are working much harder to drive the vehicle, just an FYI-guaranteed teh Audi will drive much better
Hi guys - I'm new to the forum here and I wanted to get some input. I purchased a certified pre-owned RX350 about a year ago - it came with a 100K warranty and I also had the warranty extended another 45K, I think.
Last week the interior rear-view mirror broke off while my wife was driving to work. She had to hold the mirror with her right hand while driving because the mirror was still attached to the compass/gps cable.
It looks like the entire windshield will need to be replaced to fix this problem - there is a sizeable chip in the windshield where the mirror attaches. My question is this: should the dealership cover the replacement cost of this 100%. I never had the windshield replaced since purchasing the vehicle. I figure the dealership certified the vehicle for sale and they should stand behind their warranty. Also, we didn't bump or abuse the mirror in any way.
The dealership offered a 50/50 split, but I want them to cover this 100%. It's not like I'm asking them to replace a cracked windshield due to rocks or road debris.
The dealer is probably very well aware of the actual circumstances that lead to the mirror breaking off the windshield....someone forced it beyond the travel/swivel limit.
I would ask a windshield shop if they can do a repair. As long as it's a chip and not a crack that could spread, they have advanced repair techniques and may be able to save it.
When this happened to me, for the exact reason/cause I stated above, I simply used the standard windshield attachment glue to glue the mirror base, along with the attached glass chips, back into the "crater" left in the windshield.
That was more than 2 years ago and it still holds.
Hi guys - just wanted to give an update on this. I was contacted by the service rep at the dealership and they've agreed to pay for the replacement windshield 100%. It took a bit of persistence and a lengthy e-mail to the general manager of the dealership, but they came through for me. I may very well be a repeat customer to Coliseum Lexus of Oakland in the future.
twice tonight all 4 windows and the moonroof opened as I was getting out of my car, 2010 Lexus R450h. What caused this? I have a dealer installed remote start, but I was not pressing any buttons on my remote.
I have a 2011 RX350 that I purchased new in July of 2011. The dealer said that using regular gas was not a problem. I've used both types with no noticeable difference in gas mileage or performance between the two. The car never runs rough. I get 22-27 mpg.
I have a 2010 RX 350, with a mileage of about 10,000. Last July, when I had the second complementary service, oil leakage of the left rear strut was found and it was replaced. Starting from the last winter, I began to hear clunking noise from the right side when I drove on the small inclined surface. After traveling to two dealers several times, I was told that the right front strut required replacement. After both services, there were no wheel alignments.
After visiting several websites, I learned to check up the oil leakage of strut and found that the right rear strut is leaking too.
Does anybody know what causes these problems? Are they just bad parts or other potential problems underlied? Any thoughts?
We just got the car a week ago and my husband who wears size 11.5 shoes noticed that his foot is getting caught like 40% of the time he is driving when he switches from accelerator to brake pedal. i dont have a problem coz my feet are smaller. we've been to the dealership 2x because of this and seems like they cant do anything about it. we wrote lexus and reported the problem. anybody else experiencing this? we never had a problem with our toyota and honda cars before..
I just read through your comments on the Lexus AWD systems and from what I read between the lines, it would seem the new Honda SH-AWD system or any off the rack Subaru beats the Lexus system for traction and real AWD.
There's a Youtube video of several different AWD system vehicles trying to get up a steep dirt hill and, while the choice of tires, driver skill etc are up for debate, the Subaru system scurried up and over the hill without so much as a momentary wheel spin..the FWD biased AWD based systems were pathetic and went nowhere.
One other thing, the very few You Tube videos of any Lexus RX AWD's in the snow and climbing hills are rather disturbing. One RX AWD tries to get up a little snowy hill, can't, the camera cuts away and the next view is the RX going some other direction, away from the bottom of the hill.
Some other videos of RX's being pulled out of trouble and that's about it for demonstrations of the Toyota AWD system.
2010 Acura Winter Test Experience TheTempleofVTEC TheTempleofVTEC·52 videos 1,005 194,079 Like 236 Dislike 54
Uploaded on Feb 8, 2010
Acura's SH-AWD System is put through its paces (alongside Audi's Quattro AWD, BMW's xDrive, Infiniti's Intelligent AWD, and Lexus' Active Torque Control AWD systems) at AET (Auto Enviro Testing) proving grounds in Baudette, MN.
NOTE: All of the crossovers shown were equipped with the base OEM tires. The silver TL SH-AWD 6MT was equipped with Michelin Alpin snow tires, and the dark colored TL SH-AWD shown later in the video was equipped with standard OEM all-season tires.
(and no I don't own a Subaru, or for that matter a Lexus) but I am shopping for one anyway.
Comments
Regards,
Jim
After whatever tests they do, they found error code "P0445 - Gross Leak". And the cause was the fuel cap was not securely tighten.
Should I believe them that all these was caused by untighten fuel cap? Could they have reset the message and blame on something because they can't figure out the problem? The message didn't came after we brought gas or the next day, but 2 days later.
Anyone has seen similar problem and/or message? Any inputs or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
19k miles on the 2011
Did you get the Highway Patrol on the scene to take a report when this happened to you?
How is that possible?
Brakes are not by-wire, they have hydraulic lines that are independent from the throttle. If you've ever bled the fluid from the lines you'll know what I mean.
So he's saying both the throttle-by-wire and hydraulic brakes failed at the same exact time, by pure coincidence?
I'd believe reduced braking, but not complete failure.
Oh yeah, Consumer Reports says pumping can make a bad problem even worse.
One of the reasons, causes, for which I have been "campaigning" for ONLY rear braking for moderate braking levels as a way to help "stabilize" the vehicle on marginal roadbed surfaces. Only open the front brake pressure control manifolds for brake pressure above a certain level or if the rear wheels indicate imminent lockup.
A loose gas cap will almost always result in a CEL and by default a VSC fault.
Just a guess but it seems to me that a Check AWD system would most likely result from a poor or imtermittent electrical connection to the rear drive clutch control solenoid.
There is an off-chance that the rear drive clutch itsself failed to fully engage during low speed acceleration even with a full voltage aplication. That would be detectable by the system "monitor" if you developed some level, even minor level, of left or right front wheelspin/slip without an appropriate left or right wheelspin/slip at the rear.
Remember any indication of such an instance...?
*** First adopted in the US by Ford for the (2005-7[?]) Escape/Mariner and then more recently by Toyota with the introduction of the new Sienna.
Oh, your dealer was blowing smoke.
As soon as I did that, the car noticeably slowed down to about 30 mph - almost as if I had tapped the brakes. Has anyone experienced this and is it normal?
Thanks in advance.
It might keep the transmission in 2nd gear, when starting from rest (to avoid slippage), along with some other changes...
Most AWD vehicles work just fine in snow, when left in normal drive.. Unless you have extremely adverse conditions, I wouldn't mess with it, especially while under way...
I'd also check the owner's manual, to see what is says about snow mode..
regards,
kyfdx
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You initially had the gas pedal depressed enough to get 35MPH but then you switched to the "lower gain", shallower throttle response curve, snow mode, and therefore needed a deeper depression to attain, sustain, the same roadspeed.
SOP.
Since about '08 the engine/transaxle control ECU firmware monitors the rate at which you lift pressure from the gas pedal. A quick/sharp lift and the system will "think" you wish to make use of engine compression braking. Slow and easy and it will "think" you wish to enter "cruise" mode and upshift accordingly. In the previous case the ECU would not normally command a downshift unless the period of costdown is extended and the ECU puts the system in FULL fuel cut coastdown mode.
The purpose in all this is to accommodate the situation wherein you want a brief period of engine compression braking followed quickly by a return to acceleration. Therefore DO NOT wish an upshift (as if entering cruise) and thereby incur the 1-2 second downshift delay when you relatively soon, or even quickly, re-apply pressure to the accelerator.
Has any one noticed that the sat radio sounds completely different from the regular radio, and not in a good way?
I have owed over 4 cars now with factory installed sat radios and have a old personal portable sat radio, none of them have sounded like this.
My 2012 RX has the nav and premium sound. The regular FM sounds great. It is clear, loud, good sound quality, The CD sounds great, as does the USB.
The Sat though is soft even on the highest setting and it does not sound like it is in stereo. The sound is flat so much so that I refuse to listen to it. Only talk radio sounds good on it.
I checked all the settings bass, mid, dsp ect.. all the same.
I even brought it back to my dealer twice and they said it sounds like every other RX.
Well I had an es for a loaner while they looked in to this and it sounded great!
My reply to them was so every SAT radio in an RX sounds like S@#T!
Last week the interior rear-view mirror broke off while my wife was driving to work. She had to hold the mirror with her right hand while driving because the mirror was still attached to the compass/gps cable.
It looks like the entire windshield will need to be replaced to fix this problem - there is a sizeable chip in the windshield where the mirror attaches. My question is this: should the dealership cover the replacement cost of this 100%. I never had the windshield replaced since purchasing the vehicle. I figure the dealership certified the vehicle for sale and they should stand behind their warranty. Also, we didn't bump or abuse the mirror in any way.
The dealership offered a 50/50 split, but I want them to cover this 100%. It's not like I'm asking them to replace a cracked windshield due to rocks or road debris.
Thanks,
Kevin
Comsider yourself lucky.
Try these guys:
http://www.safelite.com/
When this happened to me, for the exact reason/cause I stated above, I simply used the standard windshield attachment glue to glue the mirror base, along with the attached glass chips, back into the "crater" left in the windshield.
That was more than 2 years ago and it still holds.
Thanks for the input to the post.
Thanks,
Kevin
Feel free to write a review about your experience in the Dealer Ratings section. Good dealers don't get enough props. Thanks!
After visiting several websites, I learned to check up the oil leakage of strut and found that the right rear strut is leaking too.
Does anybody know what causes these problems? Are they just bad parts or other potential problems underlied? Any thoughts?
There's a Youtube video of several different AWD system vehicles trying to get up a steep dirt hill and, while the choice of tires, driver skill etc are up for debate, the Subaru system scurried up and over the hill without so much as a momentary wheel spin..the FWD biased AWD based systems were pathetic and went nowhere.
One other thing, the very few You Tube videos of any Lexus RX AWD's in the snow and climbing hills are rather disturbing. One RX AWD tries to get up a little snowy hill, can't, the camera cuts away and the next view is the RX going some other direction, away from the bottom of the hill.
Some other videos of RX's being pulled out of trouble and that's about it for demonstrations of the Toyota AWD system.
2010 Acura Winter Test Experience
TheTempleofVTEC TheTempleofVTEC·52 videos
1,005
194,079
Like 236 Dislike 54
Uploaded on Feb 8, 2010
Acura's SH-AWD System is put through its paces (alongside Audi's Quattro AWD, BMW's xDrive, Infiniti's Intelligent AWD, and Lexus' Active Torque Control AWD systems) at AET (Auto Enviro Testing) proving grounds in Baudette, MN.
NOTE: All of the crossovers shown were equipped with the base OEM tires. The silver TL SH-AWD 6MT was equipped with Michelin Alpin snow tires, and the dark colored TL SH-AWD shown later in the video was equipped with standard OEM all-season tires.
(and no I don't own a Subaru, or for that matter a Lexus) but I am shopping for one anyway.