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Jeep Wrangler



  • Is it worth the $35. Does it do any good?
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    The 97 & 98 Wranglers have the same 5-speed as the 1990-1995 models, I believe. I personally find it to be so-so and a bit sticky sometimes to shift especially from 1st to 2nd, but it doesn't have a bad reputation for breaking as far as I know. The '99 and up Wranglers have a different 5-speed and whether or not it is in an improvement is a source of much debate.

    See above postings for info on the automatic. I have no idea about the engine block heater and have never lived in a place cold enough to need one. Are you in Alaska or something?
  • yellowmanyellowman Posts: 209
    My biggest problem with it is the front - I find it downright ugly. Almost like someone used Jeff Goldblum's gene-splicer from The Fly and created a Wrangler/Grand Cherokee Hybrid. Bleach.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I lived in Anchorage for 20 years and had block heaters in my cars there. When it got to 15 or 20 below F, I'd plug it in to the house current for an hour or so in the morning while I made my coffee. It warms the oil up so the car will crank a little easier.

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  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    I live in AZ and use the block heater in all of my vehicles when parked outdoors in the winter overnight.

    Best used at temps below like 10F...

    We get below 0F where I live in arizona quite frequently. I put a heavy duty timer on my block heater set for 5:30 am allowing an hour or two of warmup. Will improve engine life, battery life, when used in really cold weather....
  • Is it worth the $35. Does it do any good?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    $35 is a good price, if that's installed. But unless you park your rig outdoors in extreme cold near an AC outlet, you don't really need one, imho. I haven't used mine in two years--doesn't get all that cold here in Boise. You can always add one later too (usually for $75 to $150 bucks though).

    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • I live in Norther VA, it doesn't get colder then 10F in the winter, if even that. So I guess it is unnecessary. The full doors aren't that much more expensive either, but I think it looks better with the top down in the plastic doors. What do most of you think? As far as the new transmissions in the current models, what have you guys heard about flaws with those? My brother is now looking at trying to sell his '99 Grand Cherokee, he's going to look into the VA Lemon law.

    I know there is always a chance that the car you get could have some problems. I just want to get a model were they have most of those things worked out. I guess I am looking at buying a 2K1 Wrangler. What's the word on the next remodeling? Internet rumors say that they are going to do away with the soft top. Are there any changes for the 2K2 model? Thanks again.
  • I guess I could always buy one or the other later. The full doors are under $200 when you purchase them with the Jeep. How much would a set of soft doors cost aftermarket? Which is most cost effective?
  • I saw a new (round lights) yellow Jeep today go by with no doors on! Temps are up to almost 35-40 degrees.
  • twylietwylie Posts: 619
    check out for Jeep parts including doors. They have a decent site, and a better catalog. You can get many different kinds of aftermarket doors (metal half doors w/ factory style uppers, fibreglass half doors with soft uppers; metal/fibre half doors with fiberglass uppers; full soft doors, safari doors, etc.) so pick what you like and compare prices. I would suggest driving Jeeps with both style of doors and see what fits your needs. If it's a daily driver, you may prefer the full doors; if it's a weekend toy, you may prefer half doors; if you live in cold climate, you may want full doors. That's the beauty of a Jeep is that it is very configurable. You can ask what people like and almost everyone will tell you they like what they have .

    If you feel the need to have both sets of doors, there are many options. At QTec, full steel doors are $1400, half steel doors are $1100, plus $200 for the soft uppers. This is the high end of the price range and in comparison, it appears to be close to a wash if you go this route. You can get fiberglass lower half doors for $550, plus $200 for the uppers, = total $700 + the $200 difference to upgrade soft to hard doors = $900 gets you both sets. Again, this is just a few of the options available. Drive some and see what you like. The least expensive option is what many people do... get the full doors and completely remove them when the top is off (may need to move mirrors). This gives you full doors and open air feeling when you want it.

    Good luck in your JeepQuest...

  • I know they have the rebate giong on, and through my credit union I can get 6.49% Financing. I don't know if I would be able to order the sienna pearl coat with the tan top and camel interior, 6cyl, etc. When do they stop placing orders, I know they would want to sell me what they have of course. Do you guys know if the rebate will increase or is there going to be a better deal after 4/30/01? Is the 2k2 model going to be totally different? Man I want a Jeep.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hi Pal!

    Things I would do different?

    1. I would get the TracLoc rear end for snow and ice

    2. I would get either the dual tops or maybe just the soft top. I didn't think that I would be all that interested in going topless, but since I have had Thelma, I can see that I am going to want the top off much more than I originally thought that I would.

    I test drove a couple 2001's with the soft top, and the wind noise wasn't bad at all. The top has been improved on the 2001's and is now 4-ply.

    I originally didn't like the half doors, but if I got the soft top, I think that I would also get the half doors.

    That's really all that I would do differently. I am totally in love with that Little Thelma Jane, and I have NOT ONE regret about getting a Jeep as my daily driver.


    HAve you hugged your Jeep today?
  • saharanutsaharanut Posts: 134
    My dealer is talking me out of tracloc..
    just not much snow or ice here...he says its overkill here...
    i will be getting the daul tops...
    probably get half doors later down the road..
    Went to look at the black 60's today.
    they look great..very nice interior..
    now if was only MINE!!

    take care
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hey, Man, go get that 60th! What are you waiting on??? Mrs. Nut will forgive you! Haven't you ever heard that it is easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission?

    The TracLoc is only an extra $285 if you are already getting the Dana 44 rear end, but it's up to you whether it is worth it or not. I would sure get it if I had it to do over again. Goducks1 says that it makes a huge difference on slick roads.

    I guess I wouldn't let that stop me though, if a vehicle in someone's inventory had everything else that I wanted except TracLoc.

    I stopped and looked at a black 60th at a dealership that I passed on the way home from Illinois the other day. It was the same dealership that I passed every week on my way to and from Illinois when I had to make that trip weekly. That's where I fell in love with a white Sport with a black hard top this past summer and stopped to drool going up to Ill and also coming back.

    Anyway, that baby was sharp! You would do well to get a black 60th or the silver either one. I haven't seen a silver 60th live and in person yet, but I love that silver color on the Sports.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • If you're asking whether you need a block heater you probably don't need one. They are for serious nasty winter weather, like the Dakotas, and not much else IMHO.

    As for Track-Lock, I like it and would recommend it if you will drive in low-traction situations. I live in New England and have had plenty of chances to test its capabilities on bad road surfaces and will back up Goducks on its capabilities.

    You only get to buy a new car every so many years, so buy the car you want. If you hit enough dealers you will eventually find one who has the one you want. I drove 200 miles to get the Wrangler I would have ordered from the factory.

  • yellowmanyellowman Posts: 209
    I'm getting the full doors with the hard top, and I'm going to order Safari Doors from Quadratec for when I take the top off - there's also a mirror set for the Safari doors so you don't have to fool with moving the mirrors much or drilling. The total investment is probably just under $200. Anyone have experience with Safari Doors? They seem inexpensive, cool-looking, and a nice solution for the doorless mirror situation.

  • sfjeepssfjeeps Posts: 66
    The Trac Loc seems to confuse a lot of people. A Trac loc is a limited slip differential. What this means to the layman is if one wheel slips you will not lose all the power to that wheel. Part of the power will also turn the wheel that (hopeful ) will still have traction and keep you moving. This is much better then an open axle(regular axle) that will leave you stuck because all the power is going to the wheel with no traction. A limited slip will keep you from getting stuck in certain situations but it will have a little slip and will sometimes require you to apply the parking brake, adding a little power and then releasing them so both wheel will be powered if you have one wheel in the air. The advantage of a limited slip is they are quiet and most people can't tell that they are even there and they do work. The disadvantage is they are not as strong as a locker and they do wear out over time.

    A locker will "lock up" both wheels and give you no slip. This is great for the serious off reader because in any situation both wheel will turn regardless of traction but they are a handful to drive in the snow and they do clunk and bang if you power into a sharp turn. Advantage of a locker is they are very durable and strong and don't wear out and offer true 100% power to both wheels. Disadvantage is they are noisy, tire wear out a little faster and maybe a handful to drive in the snow and other situations.

    Open axle are the stock set up but if one wheel gets no traction all the power will go to that wheel. Open axles are cheaper and easier to drive in the snow but for a serious off reader they may get you stuck. Advantages of an open axle is no extra cost, quiet and generally the best for smooth operation all around and the quietest. Disadvantage is they may leave you stuck if one wheel loses traction.
  • chefrkmchefrkm Posts: 34
    I havent posted in a while. I just got all my stuff unpacked from the move from NY to Las Vegas. A few days ago I removed my hard top for the season. It has been in the 80's in the day and high 50's at night. I have been noticing that the speaker dont dound very good w/ the top off. So what my questions is can I put bigger speakers in the sound bar. It has 5 1/4", I want to put 6" in. Also does the factory cassette stereo have enough power to pump em. I really dont want to put in a CD player, VERY high theft of radios here in Vegas. I was thinking of a amp for the front and back?? Please help ???
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hey, you old rascal, good to hear from you again!

    I'll bet you're glad to be back out in Vegas. How's that Jeep doing? Getting out in the desert and playing any?

    Don't forget the chat tonight!


    Havwe you hugged your Jeep today?
  • twylietwylie Posts: 619
    chefrkm -
    Most 6 1/2 speakers will fit in the sound bar with no cutting. You may have to drill a couple of new holes to mount the speakers, but they will fit and look good. I also read a tip to lightly stuff the sound bar with poly-fil (get it in the sewing section at WalMart) to tighten up the bass a bit. As far as driving the new speakers with a factory head unit, you will want to make sure the new speakers are reasonably efficient. You will see measuments like 89db, 92db, etc. A speaker with an efficiency of 92db, will sound louder given the same input from the amp. I haven't tried either of these yet, but plan on doing both in the next month or so. One speaker I can recommend is the Boston Acoustics FX6. It's a coaxial speaker with a rubber (not foam) surround, so it will hold up better in the Jeep environment. It is also pretty efficient and is designed to be a good replacement with a factory head unti or amp. If this still doesn't "do it" for you, you may want to look into buying a center console and sub for a 2001 instead of an amp. I listened to both systems in a soft top TJ before ordering ours WITH the factory sub. We had the top off last weekend and the sound was pretty well balanced, even at 50mph. You definitely have to turn it up, but it sounded really good. This approach also gives theives one less thing to see and want to grab.

    sfjeeps -
    Great description and highlights of the differences between differentials. I'm sure many of us Jeep newbies appreciate it.

  • Anyone out there who has actually installed 6 1/2" speakers in the soundbar? In particular, the 6 1/2 " Kenwood eXcelon? How about replacements for the dash units? Details would be appreciated.
    Incidentally, I received my new rain cover from hottubtable yesterday (Wrangler IV post #1328). Haven't tried it yet, but it looks to be of excellent quality. The company itself is quite professional to deal with, and they're giving a 5% discount and waiving shipping charges through March.

  • convert2convert2 Posts: 4
    Anyone besides me get irritated by the excessive tranny slack in the lo gears? Dealer says it is normal and I say it ain't. Also the front diff pinion seal is leaking as well as the body seal under the back seat. When I drive in the rain the rear floor board fills up with water. I dare anyone try and convince me that these jeeps are as well built and reliable as the '76 an older CJs'. Come on I dare ya. Wanna buy a jeep?? I say the emporer(jeep)has no clothes. I think I will trade for isuzu.
  • yellowmanyellowman Posts: 209
    I think I made a mistake on this one. I was ready to order it, thinking it hides away in the center console, which, from the recent discussions, it seems like it does. But when I was in the dealership negotiating, my salesman gave me a brochure listing various accessories you could get (add-a-trunk, tow hooks, etc.). For the subwoofer, it showed a picture of a triangular piece which looked like it was sitting width-wise on the floor behind the front seats. The description said something about it folding up when not in use, but it looked like it took up maybe 6 inches or more of room in the back area, which there is very little of. I will be hauling some cargo from time to time, and I need every inch of space I can get, so I decided to nix the subwoofer. Now I'm thinking maybe I should have gotten it if it does indeed hide in the center console as I originally thought.
  • convert2convert2 Posts: 4
    Anyone besides me experiencing a lot of transmission slack in the lo gears? Dealer says it is normal, I say it ain't. Also the front differential pinion seal is leaking as well as the body seal under the rear seat. When I drive in the rain the rear floor board fill up with water. They don't make 'em like they use to. Someone convince me that these chryslers are worth what we pay for 'em. So far I am very dissappointed.
  • saenzskisaenzski Posts: 50
    The factory subwoofer does come in the middle console. The one you saw may have been an aftermarket one that bolts on right behind the seatbelt units or on the floorboards.

    I almost wish I would have waited, I have a 2000, "no sub avaliable", but I like all the extra room I have in there. I can almost carry a human head in there. Just kidding.

  • texasjeeptexasjeep Posts: 270
    I have no problems at all starting off in gear and moving my foot from the brake to gas. I never roll backwards or only a few inches. I guess I use the same method as milt721, it is just subconscious to me. I just know my clutch real well I guess. Off-road I use the key start and stop (no clutch). That is the only way to go. Get use to driving stick first and then go practice where there won't be any traffic. See how the different methods listed by everyone works for you. The picture you saw of (subwoofer in the console) was probably with the seat pushed forward.

    go for the sport. The 4.0 is worth the money.

    The Sahara should have a difference of $500. You will get one inch wider painted flares. The a/c in new Jeeps work great.

    Why couldn't you use the key start/stop on the street. Your gearing would be too high? Just curious

    Buy the Dana44 it is worth it. The full doors are better for using your window (unzipping the windows can be a pain when moving or even stopped) and also a lot less wind noise on the highway with full doors. With half doors, I like having the option of taking my top halves on and off whenever I want. I can just throw them in the back. If you are across town or out of town, you have no place to put full doors.
    If you want full doors buy them with the Jeep and you can get full soft doors for $300 aftermarket. Or if half doors work for you just buy them and be done. I have half doors and they work for me.

    I think the safari doors are ugly and useless. You should still get them if you like them but you won't ever be able to use them against rain or wind. I would just rather have no doors vs safari. The manual trannys can have sticky shifting, noisy in neutral and in some cases pop out of gear. I don't think they corrected this on the 01s, but I am not sure.

    I am against 4 cyc Jeeps so I don't like that one. They suck on the highway, but if you won't use it on the highway it should be fine. Check the classifieds on the net and in your local paper to see what Jeeps with the same year, engine, miles go for.

    For off-roading I would not get nerf bars. Look at rock rails or the rocker guards. You lose too much clearance with nerfs.
    Getting a lift may cause warranty problems. Mine is lifted and I have no problems with my dealer servicing it. Talk with the service manager and get idea on how the dealer is. Some dealers suck and some don't.

    Your friend is funny. You should know now that your friend is biased towards YJs and you can take that into account when ever you ask him something about Jeeps. For off-roading I think TJs are better stock but both TJs and YJs can be built up to be great off-road.
    Sounds like there is not much difference between the sahara and 60th. Just stickers, interior color and floor mats?

    This link explains why most off-roaders aren't waiting to see how the Liberty will be.
    I haven't done 6.5s but I know several people who have. You just have to drill 2 new mounting screws. I am also looking at doing some cutting and putting 6x9s in. I am going to check the difference in speakers and hopefully 6.5s will due. I am also considering moving the sound bar in front of the roll bar.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    convert2, what do you mean by "slack" in the transmission?

    oldjeepguy, glad to hear you got the Raingear cover, you like it. Sounds like you got it for a steal, everyone else should consider it if looking for a cover. My only gripe is that the fabric is a bit heavy for one person to handle but I manage to get it on pretty quickly.

    saenzski, I checked out your website's story on buying the jeep--very funny. Daisy Duke doubtlessly planted the Jeep seed in my head too.
  • Thanks to you for the tip, goducks1.
  • saharanutsaharanut Posts: 134
    thanx guy...
    this 60th does have everything else that i want..except t-loc.. so i guess its back to wait & see. Now to start dealing with him on trade-in.
    thats gonna be fun.
    I appreciate you help.
    see ya in chat tonight!

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