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Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

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Comments

  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    >My issue was that somebody posts about a problem they are having and some of the people on here abruptly told them to go elsewhere. Enough of that crap. <

    The only posts I read stating that were ones from Edmunds recommending that people might get a better response in the "problem" topic. Maybe I just missed them.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I had responded to your post #279. I had stated several reasons for the ill mannered mood. And wouldn't you know that someone has to go and delete it. Will post the rest at Tim's site. You do remember the address?

    jed1894

    always glad to be of help. Question. Who did you work with at GM when going through the buyback? GM zone rep? customer care rep? Funny thing, my state's lemon law says out of commission for thirty business days....one service call lasted 50 days. I almost forgot what the truck looked like. What's good is that one service call burned over thirty days in itself...not to mention the 10 other times it's been in the shop
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    Lund Grille Screen - all black - looks good and keeps the bugs out of the radiator core.

    WeatherFlectors - went in easy, a little pricey at $53 but seem to be worth it.

    Ventshade step shields - $14 well spent - they leave a vertical gap between the stock gray step and the new stepshield - but not noticeable if you look straight down at it. Already had some nicks in the paint so I decided to cover that step in area.

    Belin hinged tonneau on the way.
  • jmincherjmincher Member Posts: 65
    No reason to waste anymore time on this but just to let some of you know some of the posts are being deleted.

    xring-John

    Just curious, why do you want an engine block heater. Does it get cold enough in Oklahoma to need one?
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    and "Berlin" hinged tonneau cover.
    Also, someone had a question about shocks - I would go with velvet ride shackles to improve ride - Edelbrock IAS improve handling more than ride - would you agree Oby?
    This is the first successful attempt at posting on the new site - I keep being told to login - yada, yada, yada.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Boy was it slick this morning. Lots of snow on the ground and ice underneath. I turned a corner and noticed an F150 2wd shoot out of a gas station he almost did a 360 i was like what an idiot. Well as i turned and got down where he almost spun around guess what happened to me i went flying. Sideways for about a block. First time i went sliding in this truck. Had 4 wheel hi on also. I had good control i wasnt all over the place truck stayed on my side of the street (if i had my old S-10 i would have been on the other side). The rest of the way to work was a nice 20 mph drive.

    Door was squeaking one 1 occasion again today.

    Ryan
  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89
    Up here in MN we plug them in on Halloween and unplug them on opening of Walleye season.

    Hans
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    I grew up in N. Dakota and when I tell some of my fellow Seattleites some people have to plug their vehicles in just to get them to start in the winter... They look at me with that "Should you be out without a helmet on" look... ;o)

    -smikes
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    Yes, ocassionally it does get down to 0 to 10 degrees. Also, I think that it would be nice to put it on a timer on the colder mornings to get the engine warmed up a little faster to make the drive to work more comfortable quicker. Anything to make the oil flow a little more easy when the temps get below 15 or 20 would seem to me to be good for prolonged engine life (I tend to pamper my vehicles). I've never had an engine heater so that's why I'm asking. Looks like there is a brass screw in plug on the rear of the left side of the block. Clearance is somewhat limited but workable. So I'm considering doing the installation myself if I get positive feedback from you guys.

    John
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    My old F350 Diesel was closer to a kilowatt of power, costs like $0.13 per hour. OK to plug em in as long as you want. But if plugged in overnight, might cost more than a buck depending on watts and your local KO*Jr rate. I have a heavy duty timer, good to 1500w, bought at mart.

    Installing a block heater is like anything else, depends on the mechanic. Pulling the old core plug is often the biggest job.... drilling a hole in the old one, screwing in a bolt, and using a slide hammer is the optimum if you have room.

    My 2001HD is gonna have one, my current '99 doesn't as the York placing the order back then left it off.
  • jmincherjmincher Member Posts: 65
    As a fellow Okie I just never thought of an engine block heater on a gas engine, but if its not too expensive I guess it can't hurt. Let me know what it takes I might do the same.

    We have to keep our tractors (diesel engines) plugged in or they won't start.

    Ryan-I know its been awhile since we discussed but I got a quote on the Line-X for $300, what do you think of this price?

    When cleaning my truck up the other day I noticed that the graphite interior collects alot of lint. Anybody have a good way of cleaning the interior?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Go for it man. $300 isnt bad. My rhino liner was $399 - a $25 coupon off i had (wasnt even for that particular place but they accepted it)

    Around here the linex place wants $374 under the rail short bed.

    Are you going under the rail i hope?

    Ryan
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    What's wrong with the OTR line-x? Just asking.

    John
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    Everytime I make a posting and the screen comes back and then I try to do a refresh it asks "do you want to repost". What am I doing wrong here? I have to scroll up 20 responses then back to the end of topic then do a refresh and see if any new posts have been added. Gotta be a better way. It does it at work with IE and at home with Netscape so I don't think it is the browser.

    HELP!

    John
  • mpalombompalombo Member Posts: 186
    Last time I was here, somebody was talking about getting new tires, BFG 285's. Was it Ryan, or Dean? Whatever... Does anybody know if they got them? I am interested because I was going to get the same ones but I've heard conflicting reports as to weather they would rub.

    Also... Check out my site. I have a message board and pics. Still needs some work, but its mostly done.

    http://people.ne.mediaone.net/mpalombo/index.html

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    To post a message click the "post message" button bellow thw message box.
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    That is all you should have to do then when you want to refresh click on "pickups" and it will bring you back to the topic list. Hope this helps you out.
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    That's what I do. But after I post and I want to see the new postings that others have made subsequent to my posting I do a refresh and get the "repost from data" message. If I say yes - get a double posting - if I say no, nothing happens. Any ideas?

    John
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    JMIN - I had my UTR Line-x done the day after Thanksgiving. I got the Chev dealer inside deal - $280. After tax - $304. Had I scheduled it on my own, the best I could have done was $350 (auto show coupon). These are Seattle prices...

    -smikes
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    The BFGS 285's are me. I am contemplating now as whether to get em or not. Itll be second wk in january when i get em. I am currently talking to bfg and the tire place. Ill get back to you as soon as i find out any info or otherwise.

    JM under the rail for one simple reason. If you need body work done like i did when i got a scratch and dent (in case you wanna know ask ill tell you the story in case you dont already know) the whole side not just the small part will need to be repainted. This means taking everything off. For mine they took off the fender flares, side molding, tire, bumper, mudflap, Z71 sticker, and my bedrail caps damn they dismantled my truck. To remove all tjis it cost $$$. To remove and reinstall the rail caps it cost $9-$10. The bodyshop manager told me luckily i didnt have an over the rail because it would have added about $150-$200 to the cost of repair for removal and reapplication. To get the scratch and dent fixed it cost $800 ($250 for me cause insurance picked up the rest). Rail caps are easy to remove and install (dealership couldnt reinstall right so i have to fix it this spring).

    If you have any more questions abotu a liner let me know

    BFFFFFFFFFFFFF its flippin cold out. Just took a walk through the plant and froze my bum off.

    Ryan
  • jmincherjmincher Member Posts: 65
    The only argument I remember was that OTR wasn't good if you were ever in a wreck and had to have a side panel replaced. The Line-X guy told me that OTR was better and that he could fix tears if a wreck ever occurred, but this doesn't happen often.

    I am still looking into the fiberglass toppers for my bed so I haven't exactly made my mind up. In addition, the Line-X told me that the OTR would not inhibit the topper. Thoughts?
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    JMIN - In the end, which do you prefer the look of? I don't care for the look of OTR, so I went UTR.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Also my cousin had a linex on a sonoma. He worked in the construction field for a bit and the OTR on the passnger side by the tail light started to peel up. Looked very bad. He could get it fixed but why they said it wouldnt do that.

    Bedrail caps are my choice

    Ryan
  • jmincherjmincher Member Posts: 65
    It makes sense all around. Any ideas if the bedrail caps will get in the way of a fiberglass topper?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Have a friend whos dad has a fiberglass lid with bedrail caps. DOnt know the brand though i doubt mine would work. Talk to the place your getting the lid at.

    Ryan
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    $280 is a great price for the Line-x UTR.
    I got a quote from my Chevrolet dealer, they said $495 for OTR.
    Then called Line-x dealer they said $425 for UTR, and $520 for OTR.

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    All over indiana and illinois close to me (within 100 mls) all the dealers were the same

    LineX $374 UTR
    Rhino $399 UTR

    Ryan
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    And a Happy New Year!

    I'll be gone to Death Valley and returning the 2nd of Jan. Wonder how many posts will be here by then?

    Everyone have a safe and prosperous New Year.

    Mike L
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    David - It might not be convenient for you, but all I had to do was call a certain guy at the Kent Line-X and tell him I bought my Silv. from John Dupre at Good Chev(Renton). He quoted me $280 for the UTR. The OTR was $20-40 more, I think. You could try the same thing, just take off your dealer advertising of your truck before you visit. I can look for the Line-X guy's name when I get home tonight, if you're interested.
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    Just curious, with the new format, are you able to do the HTML stuff you were doing before?
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    If you could find the guy's name at Line-X I'd appreciate it.
    Don't be in a big hurry though to find it. I won't be doing the Line-x until at least next month.
    I would drive the 45 miles to Kent to save what looks to be about $200.
    Wonder why there is such a difference in prices?
    My dealers so called discount made the price $495 for OTR.
    That's a whopping $25 savings from going to Line-x directly.
    I haven't decided on the UTR or the OTR yet.
    I don't plan on putting any other rails on the truck.
    However if people are having problems with the Line-x sometimes peeling off, the UTR would be better.

    48 miles on my truck so far....still just as perfect as when it had 4 miles on it.

    I might be in West Seattle sometime during our 11 day Christmas break.
    If you want to get together for a quick truck rap session, drop me an email at...

    hartze@worldnet.att.net

    ....otherwise I'll talk to you next year.
    Hope the bugs are all fixed on this Edmunds Town Hall Community by then.
    I'm outa here.

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Let me try

    image

    DAMN ITS CLEAN

    (actually right now its almost a grey color. Covered in salt and snow)

    Ryan
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    I knew it! All those weather forecasts are lies! Your grass is still green and you've been telling us you have 20+ inches of snow!!

    LOL!!! :)

    John
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I wish i was lying. Go to http://www.picturetrail.com/ryanbab

    I have pics of the snow and my truck there also.

    Guys i have got some pics and responses from people with the BFG 285's man they are awesome looking tires. Im going for it second wk of january hopefully

    Ryan
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I see no reason why to not get a spray in over the rail?......the whole problem with OTR drop-ins is that the top piece moves too much and grinds the paint/primer away....

    now a spray in shouldn't move?...right?

    I haven't heard of peeling problems...but I believe you...

    If you were to install some rail caps you may have a problem in the OTR was done?....

    My liner doesn't seem to be peeling at all!!!...

    I remember the block heater in Dads old 98 OLds...(1981)...you HAD to plug it in ....or that diesel wasn't gonna start for nuttin'

    - Tim
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    I know - I was just yanking your chain - hope you don't mind.

    BTW, has anyone heard if faulty O2 sensors will cause your catalytic converters to fail? Thats the story the Ford dealer is giving us on my wife's Crown Victoria - they want $1,100 to replace the 2 cats. What a christmas present!

    Leaving for Kansas City tomorrow, be back late Sunday. Will catch up on the posts then.

    MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!

    John
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    When I started my quest, I started with the GM 800 people. Then with BBB. Then I received a call from a GM rep. out
    of Tampa, FL. She issued the extended warranty and settled the claim. She apparently was high on the ladder because
    she approved my request over the phone without having to "call me back."

    She also handled the buyback but I didn't make it that far because I settled with the free extended warranty (which I
    didn't use anyway).

    If you need her number (private number and extention), let me know and I'll email it to you. By-the-way, I'm working
    with her again on my new motor knock claim with BBB. I will post the outcome when it's final.

    John
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Are you trying for the extended warranty or a new motor? Or maybe both this time around. I got a call after the BBB letter from a rep who left his private no. and extension. Seems like this guy is tied up in arbitration most of the time. Boy, what a life...going from arbitration to arbitration. I wonder what his won loss record is...

    Thanks for the info

    Dean
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    image

    Whatcha all think of this truck? I really like it. Grill guard is sweet. Those are the tires i am getting

    Ok question

    Raised white letters or turn them around and have blackwalls???

    Ryan
  • pjcavpjcav Member Posts: 80
    going to see how this heater works. i am at my parents house in cleveland, ohio. temp going to 0 degrees tonight. will see how quickly engine warms up tommorrow at 6 am.

    also for the line-x future customers, i paid $329 for utr in san antonio about a month ago, with a $50 discount from the auto show.

    ryan, my $0.02, i like white letters out.

    pat
  • rabidbowtierabidbowtie Member Posts: 29
    Death Valley? Stovepipe Wells ... what a place to spend the holiday!

    Xring, if the O2 sensor failure is causing a rich condition, it will definitely cook the converter.

    Be happy, my coworkers' new crew-cab 496 ci big block Sierra pulls down 13 mpg city. Not bad though considering the older 454's got around 8-10.

    Anyone heard of an on-star retro fit for 99 models? The web site doesn't list it. Now that the Silverado is #4 on the most stolen vehicle list, I wonder if the insurance companies would give you a discount for having it ...?
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    You weren't kidding when you said it was gray now! But I don't see any salt stains or snow!
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    I don't think that brass screw thingy majigger is where you want to install a block heater. I haven't hoisted my truck yet since I don't have enough miles on yet for it's first oil change so I haven't seen it yet. Normally a block heater goes into a freeze plug you pop out. Of course, that requires draining the coolant system. The instructions should tell you which freeze plug to remove as well as which direction the element should point to. The element comes straight out and makes a 90 degree turn, so the instructions should say up, down, left, right, etc., or maybe even give a clock position, ie 12 o'clock, etc. Both items are very important, so if the directions don't specify, find out from the dealer or the manufacturer. That's why it's so much easier to get them installed at the factory. At $35 you can't beat it.
  • jmincherjmincher Member Posts: 65
    Just a thought on your wife's car. I think all vehicles have a 8yr 80,000 mile warranty for the catalytic converter and EGR valve. You might want to check if your problem might be covered. I had a 97 Tahoe that had 65K and got the EGR valve replaced under warranty after much haggle.

    Ryan-I like the RWL out.

    I know people have discussed what oil to use here and I think most went the Mobil 1 synthetic. I would like to hear feedback on that and the costs of the oil. In addition has anyone used any oil additives like Slick 50 or Duralube?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    That wasnt my truck ill go take some pics of my this morning and post em.

    Why does everyone like the RWL out? HMMMMM i havent totally decided yet. Im going today to make sure they have a set for me first wk of january

    Pics will be coming

    Ryan
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Raised whites.......but it's Black wall for me now...

    Raised whites are too tacky for me any more......I mean the days of SS Cragars are over!

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Thank you tim FINALLY someone agrees with me

    Ryan
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    Truck + tires = blackwalls only. My $0.02.

    John
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    i really like the color scheme on that charcoal/onyx black. that's a really nice combo. kinda wish i had seen that before getting mine...woulda made it a really tough choice. i like the white letters out...but that's me. on certain color schemes, black walls look better. gotta go with what looks good to you. if that picture is a truck you have access to (or at least the owner) i'd ask if he has problems with rubbing in the front. at least in the picture it looks like your clearance is pretty tight. my 0.02.

    bco
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    basic reasoning for utr (for me) was not peeling or anything like that. it was what happened to ryan. if you get a scratch or some body damage, etc on the rear quarter, it will be less painful to fix if you have a utr than if you have an otr. bed rail caps can be peeled off and replaced with relative ease. utr's are also cheaper and allow you more flexibility as your truck grows older. maybe down the line you're going to want bed rail tie downs (as opposed to caps). maybe you're going to want a cap that isn't compatible with an otr spray-in (why this would be, i can't imagine, but...). bottom line...spray-in's are permanent. i wanted permanent protection for the bed, so that's what i got. bed rail caps are not permanent. i didn't want permanent protection for my bed rails...so, i got temporary.

    arguing spray-in vs. drop-in is a topic that's been covered many times over previously. again, basic concept is: if you're going to really abuse your bed (hauling rock, jagged metal, using a shovel to empty the bed, etc) a drop in is prob'ly the best for you. with a drop-in though, i would highly recommend you pull it out every year or two to clean under it, reprime it, and remove any rust that's starting to take hold. if you're not going to abuse your bed in this way (perhaps light hauling lumber, motorcycles, furniture, etc...) a spray-in will most likely meet your needs. the major benefit is nothing (water, dirt, etc) getting between the liner and the paint and allowing rust to start.

    i have a line-x, i watched them put it in, i love it, and think it's going to do everything i want it to. if you want to see pics of it click here.

    bco
This discussion has been closed.