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Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII
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Comments
The only posts I read stating that were ones from Edmunds recommending that people might get a better response in the "problem" topic. Maybe I just missed them.
jed1894
always glad to be of help. Question. Who did you work with at GM when going through the buyback? GM zone rep? customer care rep? Funny thing, my state's lemon law says out of commission for thirty business days....one service call lasted 50 days. I almost forgot what the truck looked like. What's good is that one service call burned over thirty days in itself...not to mention the 10 other times it's been in the shop
WeatherFlectors - went in easy, a little pricey at $53 but seem to be worth it.
Ventshade step shields - $14 well spent - they leave a vertical gap between the stock gray step and the new stepshield - but not noticeable if you look straight down at it. Already had some nicks in the paint so I decided to cover that step in area.
Belin hinged tonneau on the way.
xring-John
Just curious, why do you want an engine block heater. Does it get cold enough in Oklahoma to need one?
Also, someone had a question about shocks - I would go with velvet ride shackles to improve ride - Edelbrock IAS improve handling more than ride - would you agree Oby?
This is the first successful attempt at posting on the new site - I keep being told to login - yada, yada, yada.
Door was squeaking one 1 occasion again today.
Ryan
Hans
-smikes
John
Installing a block heater is like anything else, depends on the mechanic. Pulling the old core plug is often the biggest job.... drilling a hole in the old one, screwing in a bolt, and using a slide hammer is the optimum if you have room.
My 2001HD is gonna have one, my current '99 doesn't as the York placing the order back then left it off.
We have to keep our tractors (diesel engines) plugged in or they won't start.
Ryan-I know its been awhile since we discussed but I got a quote on the Line-X for $300, what do you think of this price?
When cleaning my truck up the other day I noticed that the graphite interior collects alot of lint. Anybody have a good way of cleaning the interior?
Around here the linex place wants $374 under the rail short bed.
Are you going under the rail i hope?
Ryan
John
HELP!
John
Also... Check out my site. I have a message board and pics. Still needs some work, but its mostly done.
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/mpalombo/index.html
Thanks,
Mark
John
-smikes
JM under the rail for one simple reason. If you need body work done like i did when i got a scratch and dent (in case you wanna know ask ill tell you the story in case you dont already know) the whole side not just the small part will need to be repainted. This means taking everything off. For mine they took off the fender flares, side molding, tire, bumper, mudflap, Z71 sticker, and my bedrail caps damn they dismantled my truck. To remove all tjis it cost $$$. To remove and reinstall the rail caps it cost $9-$10. The bodyshop manager told me luckily i didnt have an over the rail because it would have added about $150-$200 to the cost of repair for removal and reapplication. To get the scratch and dent fixed it cost $800 ($250 for me cause insurance picked up the rest). Rail caps are easy to remove and install (dealership couldnt reinstall right so i have to fix it this spring).
If you have any more questions abotu a liner let me know
BFFFFFFFFFFFFF its flippin cold out. Just took a walk through the plant and froze my bum off.
Ryan
I am still looking into the fiberglass toppers for my bed so I haven't exactly made my mind up. In addition, the Line-X told me that the OTR would not inhibit the topper. Thoughts?
Bedrail caps are my choice
Ryan
Ryan
I got a quote from my Chevrolet dealer, they said $495 for OTR.
Then called Line-x dealer they said $425 for UTR, and $520 for OTR.
-David
LineX $374 UTR
Rhino $399 UTR
Ryan
I'll be gone to Death Valley and returning the 2nd of Jan. Wonder how many posts will be here by then?
Everyone have a safe and prosperous New Year.
Mike L
Don't be in a big hurry though to find it. I won't be doing the Line-x until at least next month.
I would drive the 45 miles to Kent to save what looks to be about $200.
Wonder why there is such a difference in prices?
My dealers so called discount made the price $495 for OTR.
That's a whopping $25 savings from going to Line-x directly.
I haven't decided on the UTR or the OTR yet.
I don't plan on putting any other rails on the truck.
However if people are having problems with the Line-x sometimes peeling off, the UTR would be better.
48 miles on my truck so far....still just as perfect as when it had 4 miles on it.
I might be in West Seattle sometime during our 11 day Christmas break.
If you want to get together for a quick truck rap session, drop me an email at...
hartze@worldnet.att.net
....otherwise I'll talk to you next year.
Hope the bugs are all fixed on this Edmunds Town Hall Community by then.
I'm outa here.
-David
DAMN ITS CLEAN
(actually right now its almost a grey color. Covered in salt and snow)
Ryan
LOL!!!
John
I have pics of the snow and my truck there also.
Guys i have got some pics and responses from people with the BFG 285's man they are awesome looking tires. Im going for it second wk of january hopefully
Ryan
now a spray in shouldn't move?...right?
I haven't heard of peeling problems...but I believe you...
If you were to install some rail caps you may have a problem in the OTR was done?....
My liner doesn't seem to be peeling at all!!!...
I remember the block heater in Dads old 98 OLds...(1981)...you HAD to plug it in ....or that diesel wasn't gonna start for nuttin'
- Tim
BTW, has anyone heard if faulty O2 sensors will cause your catalytic converters to fail? Thats the story the Ford dealer is giving us on my wife's Crown Victoria - they want $1,100 to replace the 2 cats. What a christmas present!
Leaving for Kansas City tomorrow, be back late Sunday. Will catch up on the posts then.
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!
John
of Tampa, FL. She issued the extended warranty and settled the claim. She apparently was high on the ladder because
she approved my request over the phone without having to "call me back."
She also handled the buyback but I didn't make it that far because I settled with the free extended warranty (which I
didn't use anyway).
If you need her number (private number and extention), let me know and I'll email it to you. By-the-way, I'm working
with her again on my new motor knock claim with BBB. I will post the outcome when it's final.
John
Thanks for the info
Dean
Whatcha all think of this truck? I really like it. Grill guard is sweet. Those are the tires i am getting
Ok question
Raised white letters or turn them around and have blackwalls???
Ryan
also for the line-x future customers, i paid $329 for utr in san antonio about a month ago, with a $50 discount from the auto show.
ryan, my $0.02, i like white letters out.
pat
Xring, if the O2 sensor failure is causing a rich condition, it will definitely cook the converter.
Be happy, my coworkers' new crew-cab 496 ci big block Sierra pulls down 13 mpg city. Not bad though considering the older 454's got around 8-10.
Anyone heard of an on-star retro fit for 99 models? The web site doesn't list it. Now that the Silverado is #4 on the most stolen vehicle list, I wonder if the insurance companies would give you a discount for having it ...?
Ryan-I like the RWL out.
I know people have discussed what oil to use here and I think most went the Mobil 1 synthetic. I would like to hear feedback on that and the costs of the oil. In addition has anyone used any oil additives like Slick 50 or Duralube?
Why does everyone like the RWL out? HMMMMM i havent totally decided yet. Im going today to make sure they have a set for me first wk of january
Pics will be coming
Ryan
Raised whites are too tacky for me any more......I mean the days of SS Cragars are over!
- Tim
Ryan
John
bco
arguing spray-in vs. drop-in is a topic that's been covered many times over previously. again, basic concept is: if you're going to really abuse your bed (hauling rock, jagged metal, using a shovel to empty the bed, etc) a drop in is prob'ly the best for you. with a drop-in though, i would highly recommend you pull it out every year or two to clean under it, reprime it, and remove any rust that's starting to take hold. if you're not going to abuse your bed in this way (perhaps light hauling lumber, motorcycles, furniture, etc...) a spray-in will most likely meet your needs. the major benefit is nothing (water, dirt, etc) getting between the liner and the paint and allowing rust to start.
i have a line-x, i watched them put it in, i love it, and think it's going to do everything i want it to. if you want to see pics of it click here.
bco