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Toyota Camry Rattles

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Comments

  • I bought an '05 LE in late July and almost immediately discovered a clicking, tapping, creaking sound coming from behind the rear seat on the driver's side. I've had it into the dealership where I bought it so many times I gave up and am now trying a different one 22 miles away. I am wondering if it is the strut problem you had. When I tell dealers to check the strut they act like I've been smoking something. Do you know exactly what was wrong with your strut? Also, would you mind telling me what dealership fixed it for you? Maybe if I could tell my dealership to contact a dealership that has actually found and solved a problem like this I could stop wasting my time. By the way, today the dealer gave me a slightly older LE as a rental today. The passenger window rattled all the way home. I guess I have something to look forward to.
  • mit1mit1 Posts: 18
    I had a 1996 camry wagon that had popping and snapping sounds coming from the dashboard,doors that rattled,a rear tailgate door that made sqeeking noises,went to different dealers for second and third opions,beacause some dealers did not want to deal with and or take resposibility for their product.applied the lemon law and toyota was forced to buy the car back.toyota's answer to arbitrator,turn radio up.its not just recent models its been a problem for years.unless it affects their bottom line toyota will not(arrogance) own up to anything.i know this from experiance.people are not being to fussy to expect a brand new(15,000-30,000)vehicle to be tight and noise free.toyota is well aware of this problem.its about time they stopped playing dumb.
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    Hello everyone! I've been in the car market since last February, and have spent the last 8 months test driving, and renting, practically all in the mid-size area. In March I came very close to buying a Camry LE, but decided to wait. Then, in May I test drove another new LE, and it had rattles emanating from both the driver's and passenger's door pillar. Of course, this is the infamous seat belt mechanism rattle, but I wonder why they all seem to do it? This can be very irritating in any car, especially a new one.

    The only mid-size that seems to do everything well, without any interior rattles I might add, is the new 2006 Hyundai Sonata, most built in their brand new plant in Alabama. This is truly a landmark car for Hyundai, and will change the way people look at that company. But, you have to buy the LX with leather to get the power seat - standard on the Camry LE. Technically, you can get the power seat in the Sonata in lower cost models, but try to find one on the lot! Interestingly, the new Sonata has very even panel gaps car-to-car, and apparent excellent build quality. However, I think the Camry LE is still the overall better value, and with its excellent resale, a better investment. I guess we're all looking for the perfect mid-size, and I don't think we'll ever find it. Still haven't bought anything yet, but hopefully will make a decision within the next month.
  • jdeibjdeib Posts: 70
    You need to check out the Sonata boards, there are more than a few people finding rattles in their 2006 Sonatas. The Sunroof is the most complained about. The Sonata seems to be a nice car, probable the landmark car you say, but to state that no one is having any rattle problems is not a true statement and is misleading to anyone who hasn't, or won't, get a chance to check out the competition further.

    In my experience, my 2002 has suffered from the seatbelt rattle from time to time and when it is below zero, I have heard a slight creak. (But I creak below zero) Would I like to not have the seat belt rattle when I hear it every month or so? Yep. Do I believe that others have worse rattles? Yep. But I'll tell you, I have put over 70,000 miles in the almost four years I have had it and here are the things done to my car besides oil and fluid changes 1. New brakes 10,000 miles ago. 2. An O2 sensor replaced under warranty last year. 3. When new, a sunroof drain was was damaged (punctured) at assembly because the side airbags. (Toyota sent someone from the factory to solve it and subsequently changed the assembly procedure) 4. New tires.

    So that's 2 wear items, 1 assembly flaw and 1 classified as other(the O2). Not bad. Plus if it is like my 1992 Camry that I had for 10 years and 137,000 miles it will stay trouble free and I sold that for 25 percent!!! of what I paid for it 10 years earlier!!! And I had my choice of three people to sell it to at that price. I hope someday that a buyer of a 2006 Sonata can post similar results.

    I would hope the people reading these boards realize the true big picture. Your Camry is not going to fall apart. Most people do not have rattles, but all brands of cars can have them.
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    I was referencing the cars that I, and my wife, have driven. Over three test drives, and a week's long rental with a Sonata GLS V6, no squeaks or rattles were noted. The rental did not have a sunroof, and we would not buy one with a sunroof. Of course, this is our personal preferance, not shared by others. I agree with you on the high resale value, but Toyota's did not always maintain their value well. I owned a 1968 Corona, and it depreciated like a sinking rock. A history of building reliable vehicles and market perception drive high resale values. And, Hyundai has neither, but it's certainly possible that we may be witnessing a parallel path taken by the Korean marques as compared to the Japanese marques (since their sales launch nationwide in the '60s). Only time will tell . . .
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    A number of '06 Sonata owners posting on the Edmunds Sonata discussions are also dismayed by mysterious rattles emanating from the rear of the cars that their dealership service department personnel A> can't fix and/or B> can't seem to hear. (how convenient ;)) A few have sucessfully tracked their particular noises to improperly cinched-down spare tires or jacks, or improperly adjusted trunk lids, but most are still mystified and annoyed by the untraceable rattles.
  • mit1mit1 Posts: 18
    i agree your toyota will not fall apart,but the fact remains that anyone who purchases a new car should expect at least 3-5 years of trouble/rattle free driving.unless of course the car was abused.rattles are embarasing in a new car and can in some cases be worse than a mechanical problem.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Rattles are an annoyance (though they might eventually lead to a mechanical problem). Mechanical problems are disabling.
  • All I was told was it was a "bad" strut. That problem is definitely fixed now. My dealership is Price Toyota in New Castle, Delaware. I am glad you are trying a different dealership. Your usual one should not be taking you for an idiot for asking them to check the strut. My dealership had several Camrys with the same problem, so I'm sure other dealerships have seen the same thing. They probably are offended that you seem to be telling them their business, but I would have done the same thing. They need to swallow their pride, if that's what it is, and just try to make the customer happy. As far as the door pillar rattle, it rattled EVERY day since a week after I got the car three months ago, and Saturday, when I took it in for a technician to ride with me, it never made a peep the whole way there, so I just canceled the appointment and said I'd call again when the noise started up. I could not believe it (well, yes I could, since I've had that happen many times before with other cars). How aggravating! It was so nice to ride in peace and quiet, but why did it have to pick that day to shut up? I just know it will be back again. I agree that rattles are an annoyance, compared to a mechanical problem, but a new car should not rattle, and when I have to listen to that sound every time I drive, I can almost hear my teeth grinding in anger and frustration. That's not how I wanted my new car experience to be. I want to be able to enjoy the ride. Although I had thought I would pick another car next time, as someone said, no car is perfect, and the next brand might not rattle, but have other stuff go wrong, so you just have to weigh the benefits on each one.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "As far as the door pillar rattle, it rattled EVERY day since a week after I got the car three months ago..."

    Just curious - is the rattle in the driver's side pillar or the passenger's side pillar? I had a rattle "in" the passenger's side pillar of my Sonata that I eventually traced to the belt being twisted such that the latch's metal tongue was in contact with the hard plastic covering of the pillar and rattling with nearly every bump in the road. Once I straightened the retractable belt so that the metal latch tongue faced toward the centerline of the car, instant, blissful silence. Might be worth a look in your Camry...
  • mit1mit1 Posts: 18
    i meant worse in the sense that the repair usually is not permanent.
  • rlj50rlj50 Posts: 4
    Hi!

    I just purchased a 1997 Toyota Camry XLE and need to get another keyless entry remote. Is there someplace besides a Toyota Dealer that sells these remotes? If so, any information will be helpful.

    Thanks!

    RLJ50
  • Sorry, I hit the wrong button (above). mit1, I certainly agree that rattle fixes are usually not permanent. That's why I fear hearing a rattle more than I do some other noises. Not only do they usually return when fixed, more times than not, they don't get fixed in the first place.
  • I sure wish my rattle fix could be as easy as yours, haefr, but mine is in the driver's door pillar, so the belt is fastened while driving. It's inside the plastic panel that covers the seat belt mechanism. I am determined to have a technician hear it if it takes several visits to do so. If I knew how to take off the panel myself and jam some felt or something in there, I would, but knowing my abilities, all I'd do is break the panel or the clips. Hmmmmm, I just thought of something. I have a stethoscope that came with my old blood pressure machine. Maybe I could have the tech use that to locate the noise. ;)
  • Radio buzzing or crackling noise is very annoying. When I push on the faceplate of the radio or right above the radio between the faceplate and clock area it stops, until I take my finger off. I have taken it to the dealer at least 5-6 times since I bought it in 2002. They keep putting insulation or tape around the radio and the grill area. Nothing seems to work. Every time I leave the lot it is appears on the way home. I have about decided that it will be a noise I will have to live with as long as I own the car. I now have 47000 miles on it. I really can't trade it or sell it right now. I just took it in to the dealer for one more attempt to fix it. Now, the dealer and I decided that I should drive it a few days without the grill on around the radio. So far, I haven't heard the noise so it must be in the grill somewhere. Do you have any suggestions on where it needs to be insulated exactly. Please I really could use your help!
  • Radio Area: I have no idea where they put the insulation. I know it vibrates far less than it used to. If it does not do it with the faceplate off they should be able to find the magic spot and correct it.

    Door Pillar: You can try this. It may not be the door pillar rattling / crackling at all. I always thought it was the pillar but when they tefloned the door seals most of that noise went away. Now and then though I'd still here what I thought was noise coming from the pillar. It has gotten worse, now I almost constantly here a crackle / rattle at ears height BUT I have determined it is NOT from the pillar. (or at least the current rattle is noiser than the pillar one so I do not hear it)

    Try this. While driving, when you hear the noise, raise you left arm, place your elbow against the window and apply pressure to the window outward. When I do this the noise stops. I showed the dealer this and they said that, 'naturally the drivers door sill is worn a bit from the window going up and down' and that 'the window has some play between the inner and outter seal when fully raised' and finally that 'since the car is out of warranty any attempt to correct this would not be covered'. Of course my extended warranty would not cover it either...assuming they had a way to fix it.

    I am going to look for some sort of thick slicon goo and try putting it in there. If that fails I may just try another dealer or contact Toyota. Note I get similar noise from the passenger window...it may be the same thing.

    Let me know if your is a similar issue, we may be onto something....
  • ragdollgirl, I am just wondering how big is your noise from the door pillar,
    my situation is whenever I driving over the bump, my car seems will fall apart, i don't even know where the noise come from, the window , the door or else.

    Please keep me posted

    Cold_In_town
  • mine is just a vibration / crackle that is actually coming from the window not seating itself tightly in the seal. If I push on the window it goes away. You may think your is the pillar but might actually be the window too...try pushing outward on it while driving and see if the noise goes away.
  • andrelaplume, can you hear the noises when you are not passing the bumps, just driving on the highway? how do you define the ear level noise? I just want to compare mine to yours and decide if I need to go to see the dealer,

    Thanks,
  • I am sensitive to these things I admit it. To be honest those little buzzes, vibrations and crackles drive me nuts. Thats one reason I switched to Toyota...go figure!

    Yes, the pillar area noise happens at anytime, any speed on any road. For the most part if I press outward on the window it goes away. SO it may not be the pillar at all. Or the Window / door seal noise may be louder than th epillar noise so I do not notice it. If you get a fix please post...you'll be the first.
  • My pillar noise is like a clock ticking -- but it only does it going over bumps, not all the time. The most annoying thing has been the times I've driven over concrete roads with expansion joints regularly spaced -- Tick, Tick, Tick, over every joint. Thought I'd go batty! However, the last two times I've driven the car (I don't drive it every day, only a few times a week) the noise has not been there. I'm afraid to hope it has gone for good, but it may be a temperature-sensitive thing. Perhaps the slightly cooler weather has something to do with it. Don't know. It's too early to tell if it will return. The car definitely does NOT sound as though it's falling apart. It's not that bad, really, in the grand scheme of things, but just the fact that it's at ear level makes it audible to me even with the radio on. A noise doesn't have to be loud to bug me to death, as I have very keen hearing. I'll keep you posted as to whether it returns. Good luck getting rid of yours. Actually, the posts about the possibility of it being the door seals or window are interesting. I hadn't thought of that. My noise is only on the driver's side.
  • many are weather sensitive, like I know after the weather drops another 15 degrees or so I'll have to pull out the little stuffed pooch I cram in over the passender dash speaker and into the windshiled to quiet that 'cold weather' rattle. Good car but very cheapened...interesting to see if the redesigned 07 will as crappy in these regards.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "...interesting to see if the redesigned 07 will [be] as crappy in these regards."

    Redesigned anythings have initial QC bugs.
  • sure, but the 'bugs' we are talking about here are part of all model years 2002+ so far. You are right though, a more thorough test drive of a Camry with 6 -7 K miles on it will be necesary before I purchase another. Shame, no problems with the car otherwise, though I'd love to see an AWD model....and don't tell me to get a HL...it's 8 - 10K more!
  • slim2slim2 Posts: 20
    I discovered that I can create the rattle we are all talking about by rolling down the window, grasping the vinyl window/door trim that normally borders the window when its up, and moving the trim. It creates the exact noise I hear when the window is up. It's plain old vinyl window trim. Maybe a silicone goo would fix it if you could get in the small gap without getting it all over the door. I tried putting some rubber bands in the gap, but didn't seem to help. It needs a shim or something.
  • I can do the same....but how to fix it...that is the question. I was going to try to get some vascilene in there.....
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    slim2, since you and andrelaplume have apparently both verified the actual cause of the "rattle", might a non-Camry owner suggest you employ the services of an auto-glass shop to deal with the adjustment? While it would entail some nominal cost, you'd probably be more satisfied than with some car dealership flunky sleepwalking his way through a half-baked "fix" so he could get back to pushing his broom. (not all the dealerships' "boys in uniform" are certified mechanics)
  • Not a bad idea but if more and more folks find this is there problem I'd rather call Toyota and point to the posts. With my luck they will eventually acknowlege it but refuse to take care of my car since it was touched by non-Toyota hands!!!

    Seriously, I should try some sort of lube first...then maybe a glass guy!
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Well, you must do what you feel is best. Be aware that some rubber compounds are chemically attacked by petroleum products. Even if the rubber channel liners aren't affected, a lube will offer only a temporary solution if at all. Good luck.
  • leob1leob1 Posts: 153
    I had a sqeeking problem with the seat in my 05 Camry SE. The dealer could not get Toyota to replace the seat because they are extremely expensive as in thousands of dollors apiece...no kidding. So, they took it to an interior shop which took the seat apart and lubed it. It worked, no more sqeeks.
  • I lubed the seal this morning. It seems inititally better my not gone all together and likley for no long. Toyotas solution all along has been to lube the window seals (though not the area where the seal actually seeds itself into the door. My experience has been that the lube quiets the area to a degree for a few days then noises return. This is hardly th etype of 'fix' I expect. Also, originally the used any old lube like Wd40. They found this left a residue which actually made the problem worse over time. They now reccomened a silicon based product. Lets be honest, the problem is not going away and will only get worse over time. I hope others start complaining here....maybe if Toyot a gets some bad press or folks start to complain or question quality when test driving things will change. Do not under estimate the power of these forums. Think back to the sludge issue and Honda's 'fire' issue with their Crvs....
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    My standard solution is to use a silicone spray [from any auto supply] on a paper towel, and rubbing it on without spraying directly.

    I don't know what WD-40 is good for, but it isn't this. I use the silicone also for squeaking cart wheels and the occasional sticking lock, and in every case, it solves the problem without the mess that WD-40 tends to leave.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    WD-40's chief advantage in this particular application is a virtually certain premature degradation of the rubber channels and shim materials to which it comes in contact with that support or in which the glass panes slide. Your suggestion to use a silicone-based product is good advice. Silicones are chemically and heat stable. (Many premium oil filters use silicone rubber gaskets and antidrainback valve flaps because they maintain their flexiblity and resist hot oil far longer than common nitrile rubber components.) For an even longer lasting fix for these window channel problems, use a silicone grease and apply it the same way you apply the silicone oil spray. It's pricey at autoparts stores, but quite reasonable in the plumbing departments of home improvement centers.
  • Where exactly are you putting the lube for the window noise problem? I can just picture greasing up my whole window when it goes up and down. I had thought my rattle was coming from the driver's door pillar where the seat belt adjustment is, but now I'm not sure. It may be coming from the driver's door in the area of the window seal (near the edge where it meets the door pillar), but I don't know where you are saying to use the silicone spray or grease? I noticed something interesting on Saturday. I drove to my parents' house during the day (dry, and about 73 degrees) and the rattle was there the entire time, worse than ever before. However, that night, while driving home, the temperature was down to about 60 and I didn't hear the rattle all the way home. The past week and a half has been terribly rainy in our area and I hadn't heard the noise at all. I thought it was too good to be true that it might be gone, and sure enough, as soon as we got a dry, sunny day it was back. Seems to be temperative-sensitive, though. Any thoughts on that, anybody?
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    The inner door panel may have to be removed and the window removed temporarily to access the window's vertical edges for the silicone treatment. That's why I originally suggested using the services of an autoglass shop. They'd also be able to check and adjust the alignment of the glass in its channels, or the channels themselves, as necessary. Rain water seeping alongside the glass in its channels may have provided just enough "lube" quality to quiet the noise until it evaporated.
  • slim2slim2 Posts: 20
    Humidity may be a factor, in that it might increase them amount of 'cling' the trim has.
  • I will look for it. I am lubing here:

    1) Lower your Drivers Window
    2) Go outside the car and close the door
    3) grab the weather stripping in the upper righ hand corner of the window and carefullt pull it out as much as you can lubing whatever you expose. This is also why I like the spray since I can get the straw in there. I lube heavy the corner and all the way down. I then lube the area where the window sets itself when up. This has quieted the noise a great deal for the last week...but it is not a perfect solution and likely will need to be repeated numerous times. It also may not have anything to do with the pillar rattle BUT what you think is the pillar could be this.
  • The weather strip the window seeds into appears to pop right out and goes right back in. I soaked it in silcon spray. It has been better for one day and counting...in fact I can now hear the door pillar vibration again!
  • weather srtip noise back......short of stuffing some felt or something in there I think I'll have lo live with this another 3 years or so until I sell.
  • Try applying some multi-purpose grease to the weather stripping and the squeaking noise should go away.
  • I purchased my 2002 Camry brand new and also have experienced rattles in the dash and passenger side door with less than 10,000 miles accumulated. The rattles/squeaks are worse when the temperature is cold and while driving over rough surfaces. I took my car in a total of 3 times to the Toyota dealer where I purchased the car and once to another Toyota dealer which told me to turn the bass down on the stereo. The dealership where I purchased the car replaced a cowl piece on top of the dash and used insulation to try to solve the problem, but the rattles/squeaks are still present. I got tired of bringing the car into the dealer and gave up. I am very picky about interior noises and the noises I hear are very annoying. My Camry was built in Japan which led me to believe that the build quality would be better. I believe that this is an engineering problem rather than build quality. The car currently has 53,000 miles and has been flawless in its reliability. My only complaints are the rattles and small front seats.
  • My sentiments exactly!

    I have felt crammed in and around all driver door weather stripping hoping to indetify the most irratating of all rattles. I can quiet it if I press outward on the drivers window while driving but have yet to determine the exact cause. I am hoping if I find it the delaer can fix it...its been a worsening problem since day one. Of course then they could not hear it and not it a normal wear and tear item. If they won't fix it I'll contact Toyota...I figure I'll try to solve the problem myself first.
  • This stuff is great. My friend has been having a similar problem with his Camry. I'm gonna text (T9 Fast Text) him with some of these suggestions. Hopefully that will take care of it. Thanks. :)
  • NV010R-03: Body - Front Door Glass Wind Noise

    Anyone know about this...my dealer won't elaborate, just that it does not apply to my 02 Camry...I'd like the details though!
  • I hate to hear that so many people are having this problem but at least now I know that I'm not alone.

    I have the EXACT same problem on my 2005 Camry at 10,000 miles it has been doing this since I bought it. I have a vibrating rattle that starts once I hit any pavement that isn't perfectly smooth. It appears to be coming from the joint of the two cover pieces over the driver side seatbelt. It is DEFINITELY temperature sensitive. All summer (I'm in Texas) it drove me absolutely freakin' nuts. Now that the weather is cooler in the mornings (mid 60's) it only vibrates occasionally.

    Has the forum come up with any good fixes???
  • Can you send back a response on how to remove the driver side seatbelt pillar covers???

    Thanks!
    Mickey
  • when you hear the noise press outwardly on the drivers window with you elbow and see if the noise goes away. If it does it the weather stripping that the window seeds itself into.
  • I will try that this weekend and respond on Monday :) :confuse:
  • ncdadncdad Posts: 3
    Help. I have a 91 Camry that is driving me nuts. When I drive over speed bumps I do not hear the rattle, but I do when I go over washboard or and rough road I hear the sound. To try to find the location of the rattle, I got in the trunk with a mechanic's stethescope and had my wife drive me around the neighborhood. The stethescope did not pick up the sound through the floor of the trunk, but I could still hear it going over bumps. I checked the rear swaybar mounts and they all look good. Any ideas would be appreciated.

    NCDAD
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Yeah, I do have a suggestion [we had other Camrys with this body in the late '80s]: the trunk lid is held up by a double torsion bar arrangement that runs from either side to the other side. Where the two bars meet in the middle [this would be in the trunk under the back shelf], there should be a separator - but in our cars, they still made enough contact to cause a noise on bumps. To test, wad up a couple of pieces of paper towel [or whatever] and stuff them between the two bars where they meet in the middle.

    This may or may not be your problem, but I found this after riding in the back seat of our car, and partially folding the seat down to find out where the noise was coming from - I could put my hand on the torsion bars and the noise went away...voila...
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