-June 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Options
Comments
Paul
-B
2001 Allroad
Replaced:
- Turbo's $3,500
- Cat's $1,200
- O2 Sensors $600
- Timing belt & Water pump $1,300
- 1 airspring $600
- Transmission $5,400
- Other misc stuff = Repairs total overall about $13,500
...I'm in the hole DEEP!
dlaustin
THANK you in advance.
From a fan of ALLROAD
The pump doesn't have to be taken apart, just the connections swapped out. On each end of the pump is a mounting plate. The one from your Allroad has to replace the one screwed onto the MB version of the pump. There are 2 different wire plugs that have to be cut, taped and shrink wrapped and the Audi heat sensor can be screwed in place. Lastly the Audi uses 4mm high pressure nylon air hose. The various versions of these pumps use 4,6 or 8mm hose (usually 6mm). I got a $2.33 6mm to 4mm quick connect fitting at McMaster.com (item #5449K352). The air inlet used rubber hose on my Audi so I used a different section of rubber gas line to supply the fresh air which is drawn from the spare tire well to the pump. The hose and SS hose clamps totaled $4. Unfortunately I did not take any photos but I have a very good memory of what I did and how the pumps were configured.
- Brad
Thanks so much! INVALUABLE information my friend. We all need ingenious solutions like yours in order to not be robbed by our Audi dealers. I knew there was an option for this compressor. Still not cheap; however, it's way cheaper, and a great solution to keeping that plush ride intact! I've owned many Audi's in the past, and this one impresses me the most. I will keep you posted on the fix when I get to it! Take it easy, Brian
When i got in the car after the job the dash yellow warning light came on.
What damage is caused by not pressing the 2 buttons.?
I now have the same problems as others ie front end dumping air within ten minutes and then having to wait while yellow light goes out on restarting. Does anyone know what the problem is?
How did they ever find such a small leak?
No doubt I will need it at a later date. If I had read the forum comments I'm not sure I would have bought an Allroad. do I need to worry?
I think the happiest Audi owners are the "pro-active" ones, who pay close attention to their cars.
My friend, for instance, decided he had been neglecting his Audi, so I directed him to a TRUSTED friend and Audi expert, and they examined the car and found about $4,800 worth of urgent or highly recommended repairs, from blown shocks to worn tie-rods to cupped tires to wafer thin brakes to a long overdue timing belt.
He was skating on very thin ice. HAd the car blown up, would it be Audi's fault? don't think so.
What he did was defer maintenance to save money, but he ended up spending it anyway.
Combined with the insane depreciation hit these cars take, I can't fathom why anyone would bother with one. I looked at resale values, and it appears to me that an Allroad with over 75K miles has approximately the same resale as a comparable Subaru Outback that sold for 1/2 the price when new.
So visualize this. The Allroad was $45K new. The Outback was $22.5K new. Now, after 75K miles, both are now worth about $12K private party according to what I have seen on Autotrader.
You lost $10,500 in depreciation on the Outback. You lost $33K on the Audi. The Audi cost you $22.5 K more in depreciation.
Let's say for simplicity that the 75K miles came from 2000, 32.5 mile trips.
That means to simulate the Audi ownership experience, you could have bought the Subaru, and every time you started the car, you lit 11 dollar bills on fire and threw them out the window.
And this is assuming equal repair costs. I'm sure the reality is more along the lines of torching a $20.
Why would you do this to yourselves?
As regards the allroad and depreciation, I wouldn't or couldn't buy one new anyway, and by your post you'd have to agree you get them cheap second hand. I've had lots of Audi's and there all great but sure, they aren't cheap when they go wrong - as long as you know then fine. All quality marques are expensive, I wouldn't rate Subaru up there though so not really a good comparison!
The shape of the Arnott air spring looks quite different also, does the spring rate feel the same when driving?
Thanks
Difaz
Just wanted you to know your information saved me close to $1000. I bought the MB pump for $329 and installed. It took me 6 hours but if I were a real mechanic it should have taken no more than 2. I'm just a gal with some wrenches. The dealership wanted $1300. Oh and BTW the air connection on the MBZ pump was 4mm and matched the Allroad perfectly. No need for any adaptor. Thank you!!
And yes, the airnott spring feels the same, works the same...It functions basically like a tire that is inflated and deflated; and since no rubber will inflate different than another under same pressure the only difference I see is life span..Arnott has lifetime warranty.
Any advice would be helpful since I do want to do this myself?
Chris
There is no such thing as ajusting the air pressure. What you need to do is to put the car in jack mode, do the changes and then when you are done, lower the car so the wheels touch the ground firmly, only then take the car out of jack mode and the compressor will put pressure on the new suspension.
I had to change some suspension bushings and had to go through this proceedure.
Remember to not to take the car out of jack mode when the wheels are still in the air. (by the way maybe it would be a great time for you to check your susp. bushings)
Dealers like to make it sound harder then it is. Never had any problems with my 2002 allroad, do oil and oil filter changes frequently (4000 miles with mobil1), check fluids (change the steering fluid yearly also) , and remember to warm up and cool down the oil for the turbos and you have a car forever.
Thanks Art65
The rear is pretty easy although they say to remove the old air spring by pressing down from the top until the mount is cleared from the body, then pull out. This is impossible, so I just skipped that step and removed all of the bolts until the control arm hangs free, then removed the air spring from the bottom.
Since installation, the ride is super nice, the steering feels a little more responsive and haven't had any warning light appear. I feel like I saved a significant amount doing it myself and replacing the troublesome air spring setup. Make sure to download and read the instructions thoroughly before ordering. You can find them on Arnott's website. Let me know if you have any questions.