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http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm99/danspinell/Fuse%20block/
Anyway, my diagram says that you want to check the 20A fuse for the dome and interior lights.
(WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES!!!!!) :surprise:
- 30A Power #1
- 10A ECU-B
- 10A ECU-IG
- 7.5 A SRS
- 15A Cig/Radio
- 7.5A IGN
The body ECU computer, sends power to the "Power Relay" to turn on. That relay then allows the power from the 30A power fuse, to connect to both the master door switch as well as the individual door switches.
Verify that none of the door switch window switches are working. If the drivers master doesn't, but an individual door switch is working, then I would suspect the master door switch is bad. You can verify with a voltmeter whether you are getting power to the switches or not.
If none of the door switches work, then I would next inspect the power relay (and this is what I suspect might be bad). The way the relay works, is that you provide voltage to it's primary (+12 volts to pin 1, ground to pin 2), and that energizes a magnetic coil inside the relay. The secondary connection are pins 5 (which gets power from the 30A power fuse), and pin 3 (which supplies the power to the door switches).
With the relay out of the socket, and no power connected to the relay, the resistance as measured with an ohmmeter should be infinite between pins 3 and 5. When you connect 12v to pin 1, and ground to pin2, you should hear and feel the relay click. The resistance measured between pins 3 and 5 should now be zero.
If you don't have a multi-meter (could get one for 10-20 bucks at autoparts or radioshack), borrow one.
As a diagnostic technique it is technically possible to bypass the relay by temporarily shorting out the socket with a wire (pin 3 to pin 5 secondaries), but I wouldn't recommend that. If you mistakenly touch pin 1 or 2, you will either blow up the computer or blow the 30A fuse.
You can however put a voltmeter on pin 1 of the socket to engine ground, and you should find 13ish volts on that pin. That would confirm that the 30A fuse is good, as well as the wiring over to the relay block.
It is fine when the AC is off. None of the problems happen.
I have changed the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires and the fuel filter.
my toyota camry 1998 LE (no day light, V4) has no headlights, taillights and dash lights. No Power locks too. I checked the headlight relay and it is good (just put on another camry-same year 1998 camry LE). The 40 A fuse is also working. No power on 15A fuses (headlights fuses). I tried to be smart and shorted terminal 1 & 2 on the headlight relay socket (when i took off the head light relay) using a loose wire. I lights came on, but never come off by switch ( only front head lights came on, but tail lights no). Then I also shorted 3 and 4 on the same socket and the lights are not on again. I also double checked by meter terminal 1 & 2 on the socket - there is resistance. But on terminal 3 & 4 nothing. What shall i do? do you think that can be a problem of integration relay? PS: all fuses (except 15A), 30A working fine too!!!
It also has the tranny problem as well and lately has developed a strong transmission fluid smell when the tranny is nice and warmed up.
Thanks to All,
Bill
Thanks
I just went out to start my 2005 Camry LE V4. It does not start nor is there any power anywhere. Fortunately I was able to unlock the car before it did this. I have never had a stick of problems with this vehicle before and I am original owner, It has only 61,000 miles on it. Would this be an electrical issue? There is nothing working on this car at this point.
Thanks.
If the car starts right up with a jump, then something has been draining your battery.
Once your car starts up, get it to a charging station. Don't let your alternator try to charge up a completely dead battery.
in fact, if you could charge the battery up a bit PRIOR to jump starting it, or instead of starting it, that would be safer for you and the car.
If you are going to be the one applying jumper cables to a battery that has been charging, wear safety goggles.
I had a problem with the starter and i replaced it with a new one and it worked fine for over a week but after it the same problem started i couldnt start it then i changed the ignition switch thinking that that may be it but nothing then i foulnd the bad fuse replaced it and if i put the same switch for 5 A for the starter it blows off right away and tthe same with the the one for 10 A it doesn't blow only the 30 A one and for some reason when i put it in dive it starts the starter, what can it be that starts the starter and that blows out the proper fuse?
I have a 2006 camry. When I step on the brake only the middle brake light lights up. The light bulbs both light up; but back up doesn't change light intensity. This happens on both sides; any clue as to what is happening?
thanks!
If your car's battery is 5-7 years old, it's past normal lifespan regardless of other issues.