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Comments
Did your passlock bypass work Banjo?
Let me know what you find.
But, the anti-theft connections can go on their own, because the circuit is only about 5-7 milliamps, so any resistance (e.g., corrosion) invading the system can show up there first.
For everyone else, be advised that my '97 grand am has been running perfectly since I cut in the switch and turned PassLock OFF. I do drive around with the "theft" light on all the time -- big deal.
Everyone on this post bitches about these cars, but mine is still getting 37 mpg on the highway (which in these parts is everywhere), and the only things needing repair right now are the air conditioning and the left rear blinker. I do have hand-cranked windows, so no possibility of a problem there, and these days, I have to turn the lights on and off (otherwise the instrument panel is dark). But, that's about it, and the car is now twelve years old. The air conditioning can be a problem in the summer, but I tend to drive only in the early morning and afternoon, and I'm allergic to paying $1K for that. I replaced the front brakes at c. 50K, and at 75K all brakes are only half used. It will need tires soon, but overall, I must be doing something right. :shades:
I am not sure my problem with the security light and problem start is guarantied to be the ignition switch. I also have some false low oil and service vehicle soon indicators with no valid reason.
People have mentioned that possible causes are corrosion in the connectors i believe to the BCM?
If I wanted to check the correct harness for things that would affect passlock, which and where would I look? I figure i check this prior to spening the money for the ignition switch.
Thanks
See my previous posts for instructions good for 1997. N.B.: These may not apply literally to a 2004, since I do recall reading that the location of the several components were changed in recent years.
The Quick Way
Then read this: How To Install The Toggle Switch
Here are photos of how to get to the Yellow Passlock 2 wire on a 2003-2006 Pontiac Grand AM.
RADIO BEZEL around the IGNITION SWITCH
Radio Bezel loosened from the dash
bezel removed
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS wires at the back
IGNITION SWITCH wires in the harness
PASSLOCK 2 Anti-Theft wires
any way good luck I hope it helps
I read and saw the pictures about which wire to cut- but do I cut it while the car is running, or while it is off? I was a bit confused and dont want to screw it up!- Thanks for everything, I've been so frustrated with this, and am SO happy to hear that it is fix-a-ble without having to pay an arm and a leg, So do i cut when the car is off, or on?
Thanks in advance for any help...
See my previous posts for directions and what to buy.
RBC
Sorry I've been busy with family. I'm not an expert but I do know a few things and like I said, it didn't sound like a passlock problem. The way it should all work is like this and please correct me any one if I'm wrong. When you turn the key on the fuel pump runs for 2 or 3 seconds then you try and start the car, the crank sencer and the distributor/cam sencer send a signal to the computor and the computor sends a signal to the coil pack to fire each spark plug, also the computor sends the signal to the fuel pump relay to run the fuel pump. If any one of these signals is missing the who thing will not work but the engine will turn over. It could be the crank senser, cam sencer in the distributor, the computor. When my passlock screwed up the engine wouldn't even turn over, it was like everything was dead.
Hook the wire back up and look else where. keep me uptodate.
To rectify by bypassing, follow my procedure (previous posts) and, as you try to start the car, wiggle the yellow wire exposed in the steering column. That might work, and for taking out three screws, it's free. DO NOT cut the wire before starting the car!
If your "check engine" is pulsating (regular beats), you have a multiple misfire. That also can prevent the vehicle from starting, and the solution is a tune-up and replacement of the coil units, plus (in either case) thorough cleaning of all leads and plug-ins.
However tonight the security light went on, When I tried to turn it on, I turned the key it turned over but did not catch! When I tried to pump the gas it did not catch which it did before leaving me stranded. Could this be the Security Passlock or the fuel pump? Thanks!!!!!!!!
"Pumping the gas" in a fuel injected engine won't do you any good.
What year is your car? There's a web site posted on one of these threads that tells you were to go to find the info for your car, My daughters car is an 03 oldsmobile alero and if you have one of these I can help you but if you don't let me know and send me an email address and I'll find the info for you, my address is kisertl@yahoo.com
:sick: :lemon: :mad:
Today I washed my car, then I started it and moved it and it didn't want to start back. The little red light which is located on the left hand side by the panel where you turn on your headlights started flashing. Once I finally got the car to start the light continues to flash and the hazard lights and all the interior dash lights flash. What is going on!! :mad: I assume that there is some kind of security issue, but I can find no where in the manuel of how to reset it.
Corri's manual references are specifically for installing remotes. They speak for themselves. Can't offer more. Sorry.
I turned the key to the on position then back one click and then hit the drivers door unlock button 3 times and then it started and I have not had a problem since. That seems to have reset the security system. Good luck
Burdawg wrote:
Occasionally the problem has been found to be corrosion in the connector on the BCM (there's no Passlock "computer"), or a problem in the BCM itself.
Can you tell me where the BCM is located so I can check for corrosion? I'm working on a 96 GA. :lemon:
Thank you for your time.
Wayne
Thanks again for everyone who has psoted re:passlock,
Roman
And for your "do it yourselfers" Ford are much much easier to work on.
I used to be true blue chevy fan but the blues really got me down
GO FORD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope this helps,
Roman
I removed the the large multi-wire connectors on my BCM(body control module) and noticed that a few pins were corroded. I cleaned them, but it did not help. So I reconnected the yellow wire and replaced the BCM. I bought it on ebay for $99. I have not had the problem for close to a year now.
Check your BCM connectors, if you find the corrosion on a few pins, look for a replacement. Check with your service department at your dealership for the BCM location. Mine was very simple to replace.