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Wife's car has over 140K and end of 2010 we lost D gear. Engine light is on at all times except when powered off by key. We can get gears: 1,2,N,R,P but in D it just acts like it's in nuetral no matter what RPM's are reached. Recently we had a mechanic check the PCM codes, but he wasn't able to get a clear message. He said 1 was the TRS and other might had been the shaft speed sensor. I have my Hanes manual so I've spent most of today researching what it could be and what questions to ask the mechanic as an informed owner. I read in the forum where as the Vehicle output shaft speed sensor could be holding metal desbris and thereby causing faulty signals to the PCM about when to shift. I don't have a PCM reader nor a garge lift to aid in my dianoses here at home. I do have a 2 ton floor jack and 2 jackstands. Would there be any damage if I jacked my car up and removed that sensor to check for metal shavings? Or would I be better advised to just take it to my mechanic, describe the problem again and let them fix it? :confuse:
Well update on my focus after i put the shift solenoid in i thought it still actted funny but two days later drove the car again and now its working fine. thanks to you guys on this thread
I have a 2001 Focus (automatic w/ od) with an odd tranny problem - it will go into reverse fine, no problem. But when I try to put it in any of the forward gears, as soon as the rpm's change, it kicks out of gear. Sometimes the car will move 3 ft, other times maybe 6 inches, but regardless, it just kicks out of gear unless your in reverse. We did the filter, fluid change, but it didn't help any. Any ideas or info out there would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Well I decided to go the garage route, callback was the worst outcome, need new trans. :lemon: We are going to be auctioning it off at a local auto auction house since I think there's some good parts besides that busted tranny. We put in this new: full coolant sytem(hoses,tanks and thermo), alternater, plugs, wires and full tune up. What does anyone think I might put a starting price at??? Body is mint, all glass good with a decent interior. Wheels and tires are stock alloy with 20K on tires. :confuse:
Hi, I live in England and own a Ford Focus Trend hatchback 1600cc Automatic in Spain as a holiday car. This has a CVT (Constant Velocity Transmission) gearbox which is driven by belts.
We don't have this model in England only the C max auto which is different as it has a Tiptronic shift! I'm therefore having problems getting information!
The auto gearboxes and problems you are discussing sound the same as my car which was slipping out of 3rd gear and losing drive along with the transmission warning light comming on.
The Ford dealer in Spain wouldn't touch it so I had a British owned garage recondition the box @ 1000 euros. However the same problem keeps re occurring! The solenoid has been replaced twice! I assume this is the 'A' solenoid! Can you confirm that the codes (P0750 etc) reffered to are for a CVT box so I can discuss this with the machanic in Spain?
Like most of the people in this forum, I had the same tranny problem in my car (code P0750), but after I found this forum and following the instructions given on posts 76 and 110, the problem is history.
I just want to thank you all for providing with the information necessary to resolve any issues by ourselves and by doing so.....avoid huge headaches and hundreds or thousands of dollars on repair costs.
Thanks a lot.....I really was worried about this issue....I depend on my car for everything.
I have a Ford Focus Z3, I had to replace the transmission at 28,000 miles 19 months ago. Now today I went to the bank, the automatic is hard & jerky and that damn O/D light came on flashing. This is the EXACT thing that happened May of 2009. I had the tranny rebuilt in July of 2009. Of course u only get 1 year/12,000 mile warranty, which ever comes first. It just turned 40,000 yesterday----so for 3900$ you get 12,000 miles of driving. I am livid. Ford wouldn't help me. In 2009, I believed I had a 3 year warranty, I did not know what a DRIVE TRAIN was and that it meant transmission, and the 7 FORD mechanics I spoke to, NEVER ONCE said that I was still covered..ok they did tell me the DAY AFTER the 5 years expired....and the guy was laughing about it! When I purchased my car May of 2004 it was BRAND NEW OFF THE LOT! I had a work injury thereafter which prevented me from putting alot of miles on the car, thats why it only just now has 40,000. I have replaced transmission, ignition, breaks, tires.....I am just fed up with this car and to make it worse FORD claims that FOCUS never has transmission issues. LIARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am done with this car even if I had another 4,000, I would never pay that to have the caR, what another 12,000 miles? The bank can come & get it! It is a piece of *(&^. I have owned 24 used cars that were maily junk, but NOT one did I ever have to replace of Transmission. I would rather waLK. I will NEVER buy another ford, ever.
Had my 2003 Focus for 3 weeks. I have in that time replaced the motor. The SPI motor was junk. Valve dropped on orignal owner at 99k, then me at 119k. Put a zetec motor in with a trans. Install went good. Few things here and there. Nothing serious. Now, the trans I got is bad? No reverse. Is it a solenoid? If so, which one? If not, what fixes this? Flush?
I have a 2005 Ford Focus ZX4. It has less than 30,000 miles on it. It started having transmission problems a week ago. I heard loud roaring, tried to accelerate and it wouldn't. Sounded like it just wasn't changing gears when needed. Stepped on the gas and the car jerked. The "O/D Off" light starting flashing and the "check engine" light came on. I took it to the dealer on a Saturday morning and was told all they could do at that time was check to make sure the transmission fluid level was okay...which it was. Said I'd have to bring my car back during regular hours to run a diagnostic which would cost at least $125. I took it to a neighborhood mechanic near me to get it checked out. Imagine my surprise when he told me that Ford Focus is "notorious" for transmission problems. Even though he was aware of that, he was still surprised at my car having problems with such low mileage. He ran a series of tests and stated that everything pointed to needing new shift solenoids. He said he could replace them, but it wasn't a 100% guarantee that it would fix the problem. That I may still need to get a new transmission....around $2,300 or so. I told him to replace the shift solenoids. Am now waiting for him to do just that and will see what happens.
Up until now, the only complaint I had about the Focus was not enough leg room for me. I've had my car for 6 years and had been satisfied otherwise. Now to hear about transmission problems with such low mileage! I'm not a happy camper. I've been a loyal Ford customer for over 30 years. I feel Ford should cover the entire cost to replace my transmission...with a new one and not another defective one....and reimburse me for expenses I've already incurred trying to get my car up and running again.
OBDII reader showed no codes from my mechanic. Towed to dealer. Dealer said no codes. But, after motor/trans swap, it hasn't been driven. Could this be why no codes?
New post. Update. Dealer said no reverse, that was it. Left the driveway. No reverse, and no 3rd or 4th gear. Went home slow. Wife followed. Did 30mph. No check engine light! Got home. Turned car off. Went in the house came back out to check a few things and started it back up. Guess what? Check engine light! Ordered a OBDII reader from Amazon for $39 shipped. Sound like solenoid "A" issue like post #79 or #110 (forget if that was them or not).
If so, where was the cheapest place online to buy them?
I bought mine on E-Bay about 18 mos ago...cost $40 with shipping....works excellent. Similar to this item# (Item: 360355273801) currently on sale. Get a model with display.
Ok, so I went back to COPELAND who replaced my transmission 12,000 miles ago(It just now turned 40,000) and he said they couldn't find anything, the tranny was fine..etc. They cleared aLL THE codes and drove the car for 2 days--nothing. I am so paranoid....something happened 2 weeks ago, I did NOT imagine it. I am not taking this focus out of town. I am still debating on if I should just hand the car over to the bank, because I am NOT putting another 4,000 into this car, NO *&^% way! One of my friends who worked for Ford for years told me that ONLY the trucks go without transmission problems, that ALL of their cars have problems with the tranny. I am furious, Brand new IN 2004, AS OF NOW 40,000 MILES AND NOTHING but problems. I reAlly want to SUE ford............. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
If you call you r local friendly Ford parts dealer, tell them your year and model are, I believe they can confirm for you....I find it amazing 3 solenoids can go out at once???? Hmmm
Ya, called three dealers! Yes, three. They don't list them as "A" "B" etc. they all said. I found the part numbers.
As for them all going at once. What's your take? I personally plugged in my OBDII and the codes PO750, PO755, AND PO770 all came up. No games. Way to old for that. Shoot me some ideas if you think the OBDII reader is bad or giving false codes
For those like me and college was many moon rotations ago and your not interested in "call the dealer" or "google it" Here you go. Great info!
Shift solenoid A: P/N XS4Z-7H148-AA $32.00 same as “A,B” This solenoid appears to ONLY control 3rd to 4th gear shifts.
Shift solenoid B: P/N XS4Z-7H148-AA $32.00 same as “A,B” This solenoid only controls torque converter lockup. When this solenoid is activated, The clutch inside the torque converter locks the stator to the impeller, making it a mechanical connection rather than a fluid one. Improves engine efficiency, and also drops the rpm by 200-300.
Shift solenoid C: P/N XS4Z-7G484-AA $115.00 same as “C,D,E” This is the big mamma. This solenoid controls the forward clutch for each shift. It is a pulse width-modulated solenoid, meaning the time length of a shift can be changed via an ECU tune. If this solenoid goes bad, you will have issues with the rpm jumping up really high during shifts and the trans will hesitate to go into gear.
Shift solenoid P/N XS4Z-7G484-AA $115.00 same as “C,D,E” This solenoid controls whether or not first gear is engaged. When it is activated, it empties an accumulator filled with fluid, which releases a spring that engages 1st gear. This is why 2->1 downshifts are relatively rough. This solenoid also opens the 2nd/4th band of clutches when 1st is engaged. If this solenoid goes out, you may experience bucking when starting from a stop, or troubles downshifting into first.
Shift solenoid E: P/N XS4Z-7G484-AA $115.00 same as “C,D,E” I am having a hard time figuring out what this one does, but it appears to only control 2nd to 3rd shifts.
EPC solenoid: This solenoid controls how much pressure is in the solenoid system. It is told how much to give by the throttle position sensor. More throttle = more pressure.
Ok. Cleared codes after we first started it and drove it. Took it for a long drive in 1-2 around our small town. Now code PO771 came up only. Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
Went out of town, and while on the way the transmission decided to stop shifting from 2nd to third. Went the rest of the way pushing 2nd. and came back doing 40 mi. hr. on a 65 mi. hr. freeway. Lots of fun--hey!! I talked to a few mechanics, but it sounded like they were messing with me. I knew it was transmission but not what?? Went to AAMCO and they told me the solenoid E is stuck open. And now I am reading you guys and it sounds like a Ford problem that they should honor and fix. I mean get real, 2005 and I am still paying on it. I do not know how much it will take to fix it, but is is my only car and I can't afford this!
Had to have the solenoids and 2nd gear band replaced on my Focus. Was shown the worn parts. The band had snapped in two. I don't know how it managed to stay on?? Mechanic said it rubbed against the solenoids eventually causing them to stick creating the shifting problems. No way to tell how long the band had been broken and wearing against the solenoids. Total repair cost was $1200. Even with that, it may still need a new transmission some time down the road. I can only pray these repairs did the trick and a new transmission won't be needed...or at least not needed for a very long time.
Now, I am not a mechanic, however, I play one on TV...LOL.
Seriously, while not being positive, I do not believe that the bands could rub on the solenoids, as I believe they are not in close contact at all. How could 1 band rub on all the solenoids??
Yes I have heard of bands breaking before, and there are a number of reasons one could break, but from rubbing on the solenoids??
car was jumping when going up hills thought conver was bad added a additive 2 days later have no overdrive 1st and 2nd and reverse works great but when it shifts from drive to overdrive it kicks out of gear i replaced the shift solenoid and trans fluid worked for about 10 miles and guess what no overdrive again i cleaned the filter and eveything i really need some help this is crazy would wrong trans fluid or a bad filter cause this
The dealer admits there is a slip from 2-3 when starting out cold, but says there is nothing to be done, that this is "inherent to this transmission model" and considers it to be a "normal characteristic of vehicle". 5 yr powertrain warranty runs out in less than a year. Don't know what to do, other than wait for the transmission to fail completely. AZ lemon law apparently will not help. Is there something I should be doing now?
BS! They have to fix that! Pay a lawyer $100 to write a letter explaing they have to fix it. My old pops bought a new car and had trans issue. Dealers played that game too. He hired a lawyer...FREE. Only collected if he won. Which they did. Pops got back 2yrs of his payments, they took the car back. Like as if he never bought it.
Don't settle for that BS. Make them fix it. Take it to another dealer. Or get a lawyer. NO OUT OF MONEY POCKET FOR LAWYER. The settlement includes lawyer fees. So dealer paid them.
and tach rev up. It happens mostly at speeds above 55mph, and when it happens the whole car shudders. Once the car slows down a little bit it re-engages and acts like nothing was wrong. Its an automatic transmission. I recently had to replace a transmission solenoid when it wouldn't shift in to 3rd gear. I was hoping replacing that solenoid would solve the OD issue, but it didn't. I live in upstate NY where it is pretty mountainous, I can't be having this issue when trying to climb hills on the highway. Any help would be appreciated as for I've recently been laid off and can not afford to pay much for repairs. Thanks.
I have this same transmission RUMBLE problem as in message #209. It is louder when cold. It is louder with higher engine speed. A trans fluid changed helped a little but did not fix it. Any new info here? Thanks
Hey guys, I'm having some major tranny problems right now. I bought the car used at 100k miles, and now it has a little over 150k on it. I haven't made any major repairs except a new thermostat housing. It is a 5 speed transmission and is a 2002 ZX3. It is very difficult to start off. I put it in first gear, and if I keep my wheel straight, no turning involved, it stays in gear much better, except on a hill or incline. But if it is a hill or if I have to turn and start off at the same time, it doesn't stay in gear, and I hear it grinding and having other loud noises. And even when I start off and get to cruising at 55 or 60 mph it still slips out of 5th gear making the same noises, but not NEAR as bad as when I'm starting off. Do I just need a new solenoid, is it my clutch and clutch plate,or do I need a new tranny? Help please!!!
Its a common problem for the shift solenoid to go out on a focus, its usually shift A at 60k and then the rest go out after all the way up to 120k and beyond. I changed all my mine at 60k, got them from ebay for $140 and no problems since, A went out on mine but after research I just replaced all of them and its good so far. Its a very easy job
Your clutch is going out, take it to a local shop and they should tell you that you just need a new clutch plate. Its around $200 to $300 depending on the labor at the shop, dealer your $600.
o/d off light was on, o/d button wouldn't work, car stayed in o/d off then light started flashing on and off and car began going in/out of o/d by itself
For some reason your O/D lockup clutch is either not engaging at all or is slipping when engaged. Additionally some vehicles will lock out O/D if the engine coolant temperature is to low, so you might have an intermittent coolant temperature sensor.
Thank you so much for your time. We took the actual shifter apart and secured the o/d button wiring. It did the trick! I'm back on the road and she's running smoothly.
Going over rumble strips in construction zone on I-80. My car started to suddenly decelerate. I pulled off and noticed a lit up wrench on the dash. Book says this means "powertrain or transmission." Turned if off, then right back on. Light disappeared and car seemed fine, but I didn't trust it. Had it towed to dealership where I bought it. Ford to reimburse me. When mechanics plugged it into to computer, no codes showed. They drove it around and no lights came on and the car didn't slow. They're putting a flight simulator on it to take a picture if it does it again. Two dealerships assured me it's safe to drive and if it happens again I should do what I already did, except try to drive it again. Any ideas? Ford is being helpful and the dealership's mechanics seem trustworthy, but I'm very leery. The car's an automatic with 9800 miles.
Probably tranny fluid aeration from going over the rumble strips. Check the level and condition of your transmission fluid. Other than that, if they did all the necessary tests, you should be fine.
Comments
I have my Hanes manual so I've spent most of today researching what it could be and what questions to ask the mechanic as an informed owner. I read in the forum where as the Vehicle output shaft speed sensor could be holding metal desbris and thereby causing faulty signals to the PCM about when to shift.
I don't have a PCM reader nor a garge lift to aid in my dianoses here at home. I do have a 2 ton floor jack and 2 jackstands. Would there be any damage if I jacked my car up and removed that sensor to check for metal shavings?
Or would I be better advised to just take it to my mechanic, describe the problem again and let them fix it?
:confuse:
Any ideas or info out there would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
:confuse:
We don't have this model in England only the C max auto which is different as it has a Tiptronic shift! I'm therefore having problems getting information!
The auto gearboxes and problems you are discussing sound the same as my car which was slipping out of 3rd gear and losing drive along with the transmission warning light comming on.
The Ford dealer in Spain wouldn't touch it so I had a British owned garage recondition the box @ 1000 euros. However the same problem keeps re occurring! The solenoid has been replaced twice! I assume this is the 'A' solenoid! Can you confirm that the codes (P0750 etc) reffered to are for a CVT box so I can discuss this with the machanic in Spain?
I just want to thank you all for providing with the information necessary to resolve any issues by ourselves and by doing so.....avoid huge headaches and hundreds or thousands of dollars on repair costs.
Thanks a lot.....I really was worried about this issue....I depend on my car for everything.
Ford wouldn't help me. In 2009, I believed I had a 3 year warranty, I did not know what a DRIVE TRAIN was and that it meant transmission, and the 7 FORD mechanics I spoke to, NEVER ONCE said that I was still covered..ok they did tell me the DAY AFTER the 5 years expired....and the guy was laughing about it!
When I purchased my car May of 2004 it was BRAND NEW OFF THE LOT! I had a work injury thereafter which prevented me from putting alot of miles on the car, thats why it only just now has 40,000.
I have replaced transmission, ignition, breaks, tires.....I am just fed up with this car and to make it worse FORD claims that FOCUS never has transmission issues. LIARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am done with this car even if I had another 4,000, I would never pay that to have the caR, what another 12,000 miles?
The bank can come & get it! It is a piece of *(&^. I have owned 24 used cars that were maily junk, but NOT one did I ever have to replace of Transmission. I would rather waLK. I will NEVER buy another ford, ever.
Then, post back.
Up until now, the only complaint I had about the Focus was not enough leg room for me. I've had my car for 6 years and had been satisfied otherwise. Now to hear about transmission problems with such low mileage! I'm not a happy camper. I've been a loyal Ford customer for over 30 years. I feel Ford should cover the entire cost to replace my transmission...with a new one and not another defective one....and reimburse me for expenses I've already incurred trying to get my car up and running again.
If so, where was the cheapest place online to buy them?
Thanks
Similar to this item# (Item: 360355273801) currently on sale.
Get a model with display.
PO755 Solenoid B - ?
PO770 Solenoid E - XS4Z7G484AA
OBDII reader showed these codes. Can someone confirm part numbers?
One of my friends who worked for Ford for years told me that ONLY the trucks go without transmission problems, that ALL of their cars have problems with the tranny.
I am furious, Brand new IN 2004, AS OF NOW 40,000 MILES AND NOTHING but problems.
I reAlly want to SUE ford............. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
PO755 Solenoid B - ?
PO770 Solenoid E - XS4Z7G484AA
OBDII reader showed these codes. Can someone confirm part numbers?
As for them all going at once. What's your take? I personally plugged in my OBDII and the codes PO750, PO755, AND PO770 all came up. No games. Way to old for that. Shoot me some ideas if you think the OBDII reader is bad or giving false codes
For those like me and college was many moon rotations ago and your not interested in "call the dealer" or "google it" Here you go. Great info!
Shift solenoid A: P/N XS4Z-7H148-AA $32.00 same as “A,B”
This solenoid appears to ONLY control 3rd to 4th gear shifts.
Shift solenoid B: P/N XS4Z-7H148-AA $32.00 same as “A,B”
This solenoid only controls torque converter lockup. When this solenoid is activated, The clutch inside the torque converter locks the stator to the impeller, making it a mechanical connection rather than a fluid one. Improves engine efficiency, and also drops the rpm by 200-300.
Shift solenoid C: P/N XS4Z-7G484-AA $115.00 same as “C,D,E”
This is the big mamma. This solenoid controls the forward clutch for each shift. It is a pulse width-modulated solenoid, meaning the time length of a shift can be changed via an ECU tune. If this solenoid goes bad, you will have issues with the rpm jumping up really high during shifts and the trans will hesitate to go into gear.
Shift solenoid
This solenoid controls whether or not first gear is engaged. When it is activated, it empties an accumulator filled with fluid, which releases a spring that engages 1st gear. This is why 2->1 downshifts are relatively rough. This solenoid also opens the 2nd/4th band of clutches when 1st is engaged. If this solenoid goes out, you may experience bucking when starting from a stop, or troubles downshifting into first.
Shift solenoid E: P/N XS4Z-7G484-AA $115.00 same as “C,D,E”
I am having a hard time figuring out what this one does, but it appears to only control 2nd to 3rd shifts.
EPC solenoid:
This solenoid controls how much pressure is in the solenoid system. It is told how much to give by the throttle position sensor. More throttle = more pressure.
Still no 3-4 nor reverse.
Seriously, while not being positive, I do not believe that the bands could rub on the solenoids, as I believe they are not in close contact at all. How could 1 band rub on all the solenoids??
Yes I have heard of bands breaking before, and there are a number of reasons one could break, but from rubbing on the solenoids??
TIA
Jack
Don't settle for that BS. Make them fix it. Take it to another dealer. Or get a lawyer. NO OUT OF MONEY POCKET FOR LAWYER. The settlement includes lawyer fees. So dealer paid them.
Good luck
then light started flashing on and off and car began going in/out of o/d by itself
idle seemed a bit odd just before this started
coil was replaced last week
Any ideas? Ford is being helpful and the dealership's mechanics seem trustworthy, but I'm very leery. The car's an automatic with 9800 miles.